South Pole News Archive

[I recheck the links now and then, but still they tend to disappear...sorry]

We'll start with the 2013-14 nongovernmental ventures:

The winter one that got underway at the March 2013 equinox:
 
Called off! The Coldest Journey
is the name of the next great expedition of Sir Ranulph Fiennes, that dauntless 68 year old Brit who has done a bunch of stuff, including the 1979-82 Transglobe Expedition that visited both poles on the first circumpolar venture. This time they planned to cross Antarctica during the winter. Ulp. Yes. They officially started at the coast near Novo at the equinox (21 March 2013), although the venture started much earlier. But they got mired in a massive crevasse field after traveling only 185 miles/300 km. They'd hoped to clear the potential crevasse field before it got dark...but no. On 18 June they officially announced they'd called off the crossing...they'd stay put for the rest of the winter and do outreach and science, and return to Crown Bay in the 2013-14 summer. They flew from Princess Elisabeth to Novo and then north to Cape Town on 23 November Here's my updated detailed discussion about the expedition.

The venture started out well...the expedition support ship, the South African cadet training vessel SA Agulhas, left Cape Town for England on 2 November. For 30 years it was the supply vessel for South Africa's SANAE base. It picked up the equipment and supplies at London's Canary Wharf and headed back to Cape Town on 6 December UK time. The team was still in London for more training and testing; they joined the vessel in Cape Town. They all sailed south from Cape Town on 7 January for Crown Bay (70ºS-23ºE). They reached that unloading point on 20 January and left the team behind. The team progressed with establishing a depot on the plateau, but on 25 February they announced that Ran had developed a severe case of frostbite after taking his glove off for too long--on his left hand, which had previous frostbite injury and amputation. Ran was evacuated to Princess Elisabeth Station and flown back to Novo and Cape Town...as the remaining 5 expeditioners continued their efforts. After the depot laying, they returned to Crown Bay for the official start...and as of 2 May they were still experiencing slow traveling conditions in heavily crevassed areas.

The plan...to reach Pole shortly before midwinters day, and finish at McMurdo around the September equinox. Or so goes the plan. Here's the September BBC article. I've posted more information here. The rest of the six-man ice team consists of mechanic/driver Richmond Dykes; Dr Rob Lambert (the physician, a late replacement for Mike Stroud); Ian Prickett, an engineer with extensive BAS experience; Brian Newham, the traverse manager, an experienced mountaineer also with BAS experience; and mechanic/driver Spencer Smirl, who is the only Canadian on the venture. Spencer will be driving one of the two Caterpillar D6N tractors; here's a 17 October Edmonton Journal article about him. The tractors are pulling living/energy modules and fuel bladders on plastic sleds similar to those used by the USAP South Pole Traverse.

In 2013-14, in what must be the year of the fat-tire bicycle, we had:
 
Maria Leijerstam
Maria Leijerstam at Polea British woman cyclist who completed a more unique trip, which she was calling the White Ice Cycle Expedition. Around 10 December she flew to Novo and on to Pole, where she was met by an Arctic Trucks team who transported her to the base of the Leverett Glacier. From there she started her ride to Pole on a recumbent tricycle on 17 December, with the truck providing close support as well as a cameraman. Her blog also describes some of her previous exploits. She reached Pole on 27 December. At right is a photo of her at Pole with her Arctic Trucks escort (photo by IceCuber Mike DuVernois).
American Daniel Burton/South Pole Epic
was underway on a cycling round trip from Hercules Inlet. He says the purpose of his trip is to encourage a culture of active lifestyles. Originally he was to be accompanied by Todd Tueller on another bike as well as snowmobile support by an ANI guide, but now he went solo and had 3 resupplies. He'll now be riding a Borealis Yampa fat bike. He planned to fly to Antarctica on 23 November, but weather delays pushed that to the 29th. He was flown to Hercules Inlet and got started south on 3 December. As of 17 January he was 46 miles from Pole...after running out of food he arrived on the 21st.
Juan Menendez Granados
a 30 year old Spaniard, announced his cycling venture at a Madrid press conference on 1 May. His 35-day trip from Hercules Inlet was to be unassisted and unsupported--he'll pull his gear on a 200-lb sled towed behind his Surly Moonlander. Previously he's done a solo cycle across Lake Baikal in 2010 and attempted a Greenland crossing from Kanger in 2012. In July 2013 he started a blog (available on his web site), and both the site and the blog are available in both Spanish and English. On 7 November he announced that he was to start his trip in 10 days but was still looking for a sponsor with perhaps €12,500. After weather delays, he was on the flight to Union Glacier on 29 November. He was scheduled to start from Hercules Inlet on the fourth. As of 16 January he was 30 miles from Pole and running seriously short of food. Also, he was reportedly traveling 15+ hours per day and sleeping only 4-5 hours. He reached Pole on the 18th.

Other more conventional (?) ventures included:
 
The Scott Expedition
formerly named Scott2012, is an expedition planned for now in 2013-14 and renamed the Scott Expedition, led by Ben Saunders, with Frenchman Tarka L’Herpiniere, who replaced Alastair Humphreys. And Martin Hartley was no longer involved. This trip was first planned for 2011-12, and was cancelled last year as well. The goal was to be the first team to complete Scott's round trip route to Pole from Scott's hut at Cape Evans on Ross Island. They claim the 1800-mile trek would be the longest unsupported polar journey in history. In late August they started posting details of their route on their blog. A Basler took them from Union Glacier to the McMurdo sea ice runway on 24 October; they then traveled to their starting point at the Cape Evans Terra Nova hut, from which they officially started their trip on the 25th. They reached Pole on 27 December, although they camped about 6 miles away and made only a brief visit, avoiding personal contact. On the return they ran short of food and had a resupply from an ALE Twin Otter on 2 January.
Antony Jinman
from the UK, is embarking on a solo expedition from Hercules Inlet to Pole in November 2013. The project involves major interaction with schools through the ETE (Education through Expeditions) Teachers organization (website)...unfortunately the ETE site is hard to navigate and most of the expedition information is password protected. Antony took lots of electronics including some Parrot AR drones, which he says may be used for the first drone flight at Pole. Antony did a solo North Pole trip in 2010. Here's a wired.co.uk news article. He was flown to Union Glacier on the 29th and to Hercules Inlet on 2 December and started traveling the next day. He reached Pole on 17 January.
Expeditions 7
is a group of hardcore offroaders that decided they wanted to drive a Toyota Land Cruiser on all continents. Antarctica is continent #6 of 7...and although there is no current information on the Pole venture on their website, we know from the Arctic Trucks blog that they were doing a round trip from Novo in two of Arctic Trucks' AT44 Hilux vehicles. They left Novo on about 1 December and were at Pole on the 7th. They then continued on to the Ross Ice Shelf via the SPoT route down the Leverett Glacier, and returned to Pole on the same route in less than 24 hours, often traveling faster than 35 mph despite a broken spring, arriving at Pole on 9 December. They then continued to Novo. The group included Greg Miller (owner of the Utah Jazz among other companies), Scott Brady and Chris Collard of the Overland Journal, and Gísli Karel Elísson from Arctic Trucks. I have more coverage and a link to video here.
The Pink Polar Expedition 
(?!) was a 2013-14 kite/skiing Antarctic crossing by Australian veterinarian Geoff Wilson, with promotion support from breast cancer survivor Kate Carlyle. Geoff intends to promote breast cancer awareness (and fund raising) by hauling his supplies on a 400 lb. (!) "boob sled" (photos of the sled appear on this blog page). He set out from Novo on 14 November; he is still doing a solo trip, although he started out with Faysal Hanneche (see next entry). He reached Pole on 28 December, rested and waited for favorable winds for 2 days, and then continued to Hercules Inlet, which he reached on 6 January.
Cancelled... ...the French adventurer Faysal Hanneche,
who reached the North Pole in April. Interestingly, one of Faysal's sponsors is Bitcoin--he'll be planting a Bitcoin flag at Pole and also order a pizza (for delivery when he arrives in South America)--supposedly the first Bitcoin transaction from Pole (Bitcoin forum post). He also started at Novo and returning to Hercules Inlet; it's described as an unsupported crossing planned for less than 64 days. As of 9 November, Faysal and Geoff were still in Cape Town waiting for good weather to fly to Novo, they finally did so on the 12th. Faysal set out in another storm on 19 November...and was making slow but continuing progress until 8 December, when he was evacuated (by truck) back to Novo because of knee problems--dislocation of the meniscus, aggravated by the kiting. On the 12th he flew back to Cape Town.
Vesa Luomala (Finnish language site)
from Helsinki, Finland, announced his planned solo ski trip to Pole from Hercules Inlet--previously he's crossed Greenland from east to west and from Narsaq to Qaanaaq. He was scheduled to fly to Union Glacier on 23 November..delayed until the 29th. He was flown to the Hercules Inlet starting site on 2 December along with Lewis Clarke, Carl Alvey, Antony Jinman, and Daniel Burton. Vesa headed south the same day. On 18 January he'd reached 89ºS...only one last degree to go. He arrived at Pole early on 23 January.
Richard Parks
was making another Pole attempt in 2013-14, after having run out of time in 2012-13, he had to be picked up 140 miles short of Pole. This year's trip would again be a 715-mile venture from Hercules Inlet, and he aimed to beat Christian Eide's 2010-11 time of 24 days. He posted more information on his public Facebook page. He set out on the record attempt at 0340 Pole time on 29 November...but after 3 days and slow going, he decided to turn around and start again. He returned to Hercules Inlet on the 4th, took a rest day, and planned to set out again at 2300 Pole time on the 5th. He reached Pole at 1824 on 4 January, completing the trip in 29 days, 19 hours, and 24 minutes. This was a British record for such trips, and the second fastest time--Richard had targeted beating Norwegian Christian Eide's 2010-11 record of 24 days, 1 hour, 13 minutes.
Parker Liautaud/The Willis Resilience Expedition 
was born in Palo Alto but lived in London since he was nine. At the time of the venture he was 19 years old, a sophomore at Yale, and already an experienced polar explorer. In April 2012 he completed his third (!) North Pole expedition (well, the first time in 2010 at age 15 he had to turn back 15 miles from the North Pole, but the next two were successful, and his 2011 trip was one of the fastest recorded). He'd planned an unsupported trip to Pole from the Messner Start, guided by Doug Stoup, in 2011-12, but this was postponed. However...in late August 2013 he obtained sponsorship from the Willis Group, a global insurance broker (press release with extensive information about the expedition). The reorganized venture (now guided by Doug Stoup instead of "solo") was named "The Willis Resilience Expedition Antarctica"--on about 3 December he planned to set out from the base of the Ross Ice Shelf and set a speed record from the base of the Leverett Glacier to Pole along the USAP SPoT traverse route. He considered this "unsupported" as they were on skis, each pulling a 180-lb pulk...but they were followed by a team driving Ice Broker, a Toyota Hilux 6x6 vehicle customized by Arctic Trucks and driven by Eyjólfur Már Teitsson. which was to film the trip live, maintain social media contact and transmit science and weather data. The support team was The Great Outdoors contributor Nathan Hambrook-Skinner (TGO news article), along with British cameraman Paddy Scott. The science projects, primarily on the approach route from UG to Pole to the base of the glacier, included the digging of snow pits to track stable isotopes as well as tritium as they cross the continent. A lightweight weather station (a Coldfacts-3000BX) was to be tested for a 5-week period near Union Glacier. He and the vehicle arrived at Union glacier on 29 November, where they were doing some test drives. They reached Pole on 4 December after 4 days of driving...they rested only a few hours before continuing toward the Leverett Glacier. The official start of the 314.49 mile (506.12km) trip to Pole was at 2200 SP time on 6 December; they reached Pole at 0243 on 25 December, in what was reported to be a record time of 18 days, 4 hours, 43 minutes. Here is the Arctic Trucks blog about the venture.
Walking with the Wounded 
was a challenge race sponsored by the British charity of that name, scheduled for November/December 2013. In September the event was titled the Virgin Money South Pole Allied Challenge, denoting the new major sponsor. Three teams of wounded service personnel--one from the UK, one from the US, and one comprised of other British Commonwealth personnel from Australia and Canada, were to trek about 200 miles from 87ºS to Pole, pulling 150 lb sleds. Each team was accompanied by an experienced guide, a challenge mentor, and a world-famous media personality, and there also was a support/medical crew. The teams arrived at Novo on 22 November; all of them were then flown to the starting point, in two groups, by 28 November SP time, which is when Prince Harry got to the start. The competition started at 0235 2 December (1335 UTC 1 December). They were supported by Arctic Trucks (their blog)--eventually the "competition" aspect of the event was cancelled because of difficult conditions, and the participants were given a lift of about 50 miles by the Arctic Trucks support team. They reached Pole at 0235 on 14 December SP time and had their major photo shoot at the Pole before retreating to their camp site several miles away. The group had a tour of the station on Monday morning 16 December before the first half of them departed for Novo (NSF press release with photo).

Earlier, in July it was announced Dominic West, star of The Wire, is accompanying the Commonwealth team (Telegraph article). Prince Harry is participating with the British team (video from the web site and BBC coverage). When the winning team arrived at Pole they were to dig up and claim the "Walking With the Wounded Allied Challenge Trophy," which was buried at Pole by the 2012-13 expedition. In May of 2012 it was announced that Prince Harry would accompany the British team per this Sunday Express article. Harry participated in the charity's North Pole challenge in March 2011, pulling a 220-lb sled in -30º temperatures. More information about Prince Harry's planned participation--this video from the expedition web site and BBC coverage. For this venture he was fully clad in ECW gear. Here's a September 2012 article from The Age (Melbourne) about early plans for the race.
The ANI Ski South Pole-Messner Route
this year included Wen Yuan from China and Australian Joshua Hodgkinson, to be guided from the Ronne-Filchner Ice Shelf (the Messner Route) to Pole by Canadian veteran guide Devon McDiarmid. Arabella Slinger from Britain was to be part of the group but dropped out due to injury. They were still hanging around in PA the last week in November, and were on the flight that reached UG on the 29th. After setting out on 3 December, the venture reached Pole on 12 January...this was Devon's fifth trip to Pole (CBC news article).
Børge Ousland
guided an ALE "last degree" expedition to Pole in December, arriving on the 28th after 7 days of skiing.
Lewis Clarke
from Bristol, England, wanted to be the youngest person to ski the full distance from the coast to Pole 2013-14 at the age of 16. He's been training and raising money by selling ad space on his face (!) He swam across the English Channel at age 12. And he's being guided by ANI guide Carl Alvey, who also helped him earlier this year on training trips in Norway and Greenland. Here is a 14 October article about him from the Bristol Post. They arrived at Union Glacier on the 29th and were flown to their Hercules Inlet starting point on 2 December and set out the next day. On the morning of 19 January SP time they reached the elevated station.
3 Below Zero
is the husband-and-wife team of Chris and Marty Fagan, ultrarunners from Bend, Washington. They are planning an unassisted/unsupported ski trip from the Ronne-Filchner Ice Shelf to Pole (the so-called Messner Route) starting in late November. While this will be their first polar trek, they've been training in Ely, MN and Svalbard...and the couple first met while on separate Denali climbing expeditions in 1998. If they succeed, I believe they'll be the second American married couple to do so...the first was Jenny and Ray Jardine in 2006-07. They left for Antarctica on 17 November, reached Union Glacier on the 29th; and were flown to their starting point (and set out) on 3 December. They reached Pole on 19 January.

The following 2013-14 expeditions were announced, but didn't happen. As of April 2014 all of these sites were still up, so maybe some of them will eventually happen:
 
Dwayne Fields
a 29-year-old Londoner born in Jamaica, in 2010 was only the second Black person to trek to the North Pole, had announced a South Pole venture for 2012-13. Not a lot of details on his trip came out, except that he'd be making the 700-mile trip with a group of Americans. And on 15 December 2012 he officially announced the postponement. As of May 2013 he was still planning a 2013-14 trip, although I haven't seen much since then.
Michele Pontrandolfo
is an Italian man who's traveled the Arctic extensively since 2000, where his still-unrealized goal is to reach the North Pole. This season, however, he's focusing on a solo unassisted Antarctic crossing from Novo to Hercules Inlet via Pole--something he's calling the Italian Antarctic Solo Expedition. He'll be using skis and a kite where possible. As of the end of August he was seriously preparing and training...and still trying to obtain funding from sponsors. And as of late October I haven't seen any further news or updates.
Hans Wijnand and Jacob Slooff
from the Netherlands are planning a "kite buggy" Antarctic crossing starting at Novo, visiting the Pole of Inaccessibility, stopping at Pole, and continuing to the vicinity of Mt. Vinson, where they will be joined by a third expeditioner for a summit climb. The lightweight kite buggies will also be manhauled as needed. The project was originally announced for 2010, but was most recently proposed for a November 2013 start. There is nothing new on their website since last June.
Cancelled... Twins to the South Pole
are twins Zac and Josh Lyon, currently 20 years old. They are New Zealanders, currently students at the University of Waikato, who planned a round trip from Hercules Inlet to Pole in 2013-14. They planned to support the Child Cancer Foundation--this link is to their crowdfunding web page...but they did not reach their funding goal, so the venture is off. Here's their Facebook page...and here is 22 May 2012 stuff.co.nz article about their plans and preparation. In April 2012 the twins sent a weather balloon with cameras to the edge of space (104,600 feet), recovering some amazing photos and video (stuff.co.nz article with photos/video).
Cancelled... Karen Darke
is a 38-year-old paraplegic Scottish woman who is planning to be the first to reach Pole using only arm power, on a "sit-ski." She has been seriously training in Greenland and Patagonia for a team venture supported out of Union Glacier, previously postponed until 2013-14 (main expedition site). She was to be accompanied by her cyclist brother Simon, climber Andy Kilpatrick, and triathlete Mike Christie. But...she was run over by a car in June and couldn't collect enough funding, so the venture is off for now.
Extreme World Races
the last I knew, was soliciting participants for their 500 mile 2014-15 event (for only £15,999 ex London)...presumably because their 2013-14 event was fully booked. But now it seems that the company and their website has vanished without a trace. Arctic Trucks still has vehicles at Novo and they might be doing something in addition to the vehicle support of Parker Liautaud.

Here's the record of 2012-13 private Pole treks...

Announced ventures for the 2012-13 season:
 
ABORTED! Eric Larsen
from Boulder, CO, announced his "Cycle South" expedition on 2 November. He'd planned a 750-mile bicycle ride (with resupply) from Hercules Inlet to Pole, starting in mid-December...with a possible return ride back to the coast. Eric has made two previous ski trips to Pole, and is one of the few Americans who has skied to both the North and South Poles, and the only American to achieve Everest as well. No information yet on if he'll have help or support. Here's another information page. Doug Stoup once contemplated this trip, originally planned for 2001-02, and Doug tested a bike at PH in 2002-03 (photos); Eric told me that the technology has significantly improved since then. He's using a Surly Moonlander bike with 4.7" LGP tires. Eric left Boulder on 13 December, got to UG on 18 December, and officially started from Hercules Inlet on the 21st. However, on 28 December after reaching 82.5ºS, he decided to turn around and head back to Hercules Inlet, because of slower travel than he had planned for. He was back near the coast on 3 January, back in PA 2 days later, and home in Boulder on the 12th.
Aaron Linsdau
from California, hoped to be the first American (and only the fourth person) to complete an unsupported 1450-mile round trip from Hercules Inlet to Pole in 2012-13, doing it solo. He'd previously trained in Yellowstone and Greenland, and will be supporting the Prostate Cancer Foundation. In addition to serious planning and training, he'd been studying the blogs and photos/video of Aleksander Gamme, and Cas & Jonesy, the first 3 people who did this trip, in 2011-12. He was on the first IL-76 flight to Union Glacier on 1 November, and was flown to the starting point the next day. He reached Pole on the 22nd.
ABORTED! Richard Parks
a 35-year-old former rugby player and current adventurer from Wales, planned a solo unsupported Pole venture from Hercules Inlet starting in December...and he looked to do it quickly--in 35-40 days (which still wouldn't come close to Christian Eide's 24-day trip in 2010-11). Amazingly, Richard completed the 7 summits plus both poles in less than a year between December 2010 and July 2011 (Wikipedia). His 2010-11 Pole trip was a "last degree" trek. Here is a July Wales Online article; there aren't any further details or links on Richard's main web site. Richard arrived in PA on 8 December but his baggage (his sled and other equipment) did not. What's next? (13 December South Wales Argus report). Well, the gear was found, although he ended up borrowing a pulk from ALE. He started from HI on 19 December SP time, and his travels were slower than expected, particularly in the rougher-than-usual sastrugi on the Plateau. He ended up getting a food drop, but on 25 January he decided he couldn't complete the trip to Pole before the end of the ALE/ANI season on 28 January...he was picked up south of the 88th parallel. By the 28th he was back in PA.
Hannah McKeand
from the UK, made her SIXTH trip to Pole...this time she was guiding fellow Brit Toby Selman (a former Royal Marine), and a Finn, Eero Oura, on an unsupported 580-mile ski trip to Pole from the Messner Start (the Ronne/Filchner Ice Shelf). They headed to UG on 23 November and started a few days later. Unfortunately, Toby reported on 20 December that he was back in PA after covering only 125 miles of the planned 560 mile trip. Hannah and Eero were continuing...they reached Pole on 9 January. This was Hannah's sixth full trip to Pole...adding to her record of the most full trips by anyone male or female.
MODIFIED! The International Scott Centenary Expedition (ISCE)
was announced by Anthony Jinman in early May 2010. The main part of this event, originally scheduled for the 2011-12 season and later rescheduled for 2012-13, was to be a 290-mile trip from Scott's Cape Evans hut to the site of Scott's last tent site, where a commemoration service was to be held--this has been cancelled. Expedition patrons and descendants of Scott's party were to be flown to the memorial service--that would have been an interesting bit of logistics. Anthony had planned a trip to Pole in 2009-10 which was cancelled due to lack of funds. Anthony previously announced a North Pole trip for the boreal spring of 2010, which he successfully completed on 22 April 2010, and he was a member of the Hannah McKeand venture from the Ronne-Filchner Ice Shelf, reaching Pole on 3 January 2009 (these trips are described on his main site). Still on, according to this Plymouth Herald article, was a 120-mile trek to Pole by Henry Evans, winner of a Daily Telegraph competition; he will be led by Geoff Somers. As of 14 December they were in PA. They finally flew to Union Glacier on 18 December, and were flown to their starting point just north of 88ºS, arriving on the 24th. Geoff and Henry reached Pole on 6 January.
Vilborg Arna Gissurardóttir (Icelandic language site)
from Iceland, was also doing a trip to Pole, starting from Hercules Inlet. She was doing a solo, unsupported, and unassisted trip, pulling 2 sleds totaling 220 lbs. Here are 22 October articles from the Iceland Review in English, and from Morgunbladid (this is the Google Translate link in English). She headed south to Union Glacier on 17 November and started her trip on the 21st SP time. She also encountered slower-than-expected traveling, and despite carrying extra food, she did have to get a resupply from ALE. By 13 January she was well within the last degree...she reached Pole on the 17th.
Roland Krueger
a German skier, had previously reached Pole in December 2005 as part of the mostly-Norwegian "Unsupported to the South Pole" venture. This season he planned a solo unsupported/unassisted trip from the Messner Start (the Ronne Ice shelf, 82.3ºS-65ºW)...and after reaching Pole intended to continue across the continent, ending on the Ross Ice Shelf at the foot of the Axel Heiberg Glacier. He was flown from PA to Union Glacier, arriving on 20 November, and arrived at his starting point on 23 November. He reached Pole on 13 January and decided to end his trip there because of bad weather and rough traveling. He found monstrous sastrugi south of 88ºS, an unusual condition. He was the first solo German to reach Pole, and he thought he was the first unassisted/unsupported trip to reach Pole this season.

"Last Degree" and similar short ventures included:
Test Your Limits 2013: The South Pole,
was a venture planned for early January by heart transplant recipient Dale Shippam of Thunder Bay, Ontario. He was joined by three cardiologists, Heather Ross, Diego Delgado, and Michel White. This was Dale's fourth journey to promote organ donation since 2006...previous trips were to the North Pole, Mt. Vinson, and a mountain near Everest in Nepal. They had three guides from Polar Explorers (and there were several other members of the travel group). Here's a 19 December CBC news article, a main project web site, and Dr. Delgado's blog. They were to leave Canada on 30 December. The team arrived at Pole on 14 January after seven days of travel, as part of a 14-person group guided by PolarExplorers (their blog).
Mark Allan
the 40-year-old Bristol chief executive of Unite, a British student housing company, completed a 100-mile trek to Pole, returning home just before Christmas. His charity page...
An Irish-Russian journey
by Irishman Niall Carton and his Russian friends Alexey Borichev and Alexander Zozulya planned a last-degree trip in January to support the Greater Chernobyl Cause, a charity supporting abandoned children and the old/infirm who have suffered from the Soviet Union breakup (their fundraising page). They also were part of that same 14-person PolarExplorers group and did arrive successfully on 14 January (Moscow Expat Life news page).
Vanessa O'Brien and Mike Hamill
did a last degree trip after summiting Mt. Vinson, arriving on 15 December.
In the Footsteps of Legends 
was a "last-2-degree" 140-mile unsupported ski trip to Pole that began in late November 2012. They were supported out of Union Glacier (UG), although some of their web site info mentioned Glacier Bay (which is on the coast at 99ºW). This group was led by David Hempleman-Adams, co-led by former British Army member Justin Packshaw, and includes Corporal Robbie Harmer, Lance Corporal Nick Webb and Captain Adam Crookshank of the Royal Dragoon Guards. Five other Brits were accompanying them--Olympic rower Matthew Pinsent, Hector Macleod, Malcolm Walker, Dr. Lynne Summers, and Sasha Borodin. The Royal Dragoon Guards is the present-day unit which at one time had included Lawrence Oates, the member of Scott's expedition whose last documented words were, "I am just going outside and may be some time." The group is supporting Alzheimer's UK and Walking with the Wounded charities, and they are carrying with them a silver trophy which they'll bury at Pole, to be dug up in 2013-14 by the winning team of the Walking with the Wounded Challenge race, per this 15 November York Press article. Here's an earlier (3 March) The Advertiser (Yorkshire) newspaper article. As of 23 November the team was waiting in PA. The team arrived at UG on the 26th and were flown to their starting point the next day. But on 5 December, Malcolm Walker (the chief executive of Iceland Foods--a main sponsor) was medevaced back to PA because of a stomach illness (Malcolm's blog). The team reached Pole on 11 December, the first overland venture of the season to do so...and were flown back to UG later that day.

Postponed from 2012-13 (perhaps rescheduled as noted):
 
Dwayne Fields
a 29-year-old Londoner born in Jamaica, in 2010 was only the second Black person to trek to the North Pole, had announced a South Pole venture for 2012-13. Not a lot of details on his trip came out, except that he'd be making the 700-mile trip with a group of Americans. And on 15 December 2012 he officially announced the postponement. As of May 2013 he was still planning a 2013-14 trip.
Parker Liautaud
a Londoner now 18 years old, is already an experienced polar explorer. In April 2012 he completed his third (!) North Pole expedition (well, the first time in 2010 at age 15 he had to turn back 15 miles from the North Pole, but the next two were successful, and his 2011 trip was one of the fastest recorded). He'd planned an unsupported trip to Pole from the Messner Start, guided by Doug Stoup, in 2011-12. He calls this venture the Polar Orbiter Expedition 2012...and he'd be deploying automatic weather stations (AWS's) for the University of Wisconsin along the way. The postponement was announced by Explorersweb in late October 2012. His web site now mentions a 2013-14 trip but with no details as of 1 May 2013.
Scott2012
is a 4-man British expedition planned for now in 2013-14 and renamed the Scott Expedition. In 2012-13 it was to be led by Ben Saunders, with Alastair Humphreys and Martin Hartley. This trip was originally planned for 2011-12, but was cancelled last year as well. The goal is to be the first team to complete Scott's round trip route to Pole from Scott's hut on Ross Island. They claim the 1800-mile trek will be the longest unsupported polar journey in history. Interestingly, after this year's Antarctic plan fell through, Alastair Humphreys spent 4 weeks in November/December walking more than 1000 km in Oman, from Salalah to Dubai (coverage by John Henzell in The National).
Ann Bancroft and Liv Arnesen
are familiar names in the polar regions...in part for their 2000-01 Antarctic crossing. The two explorer/educators have been planning a new venture, now postponed to 2013-14, titled Access Water, in which they will lead six other women from six continents on the 800-mile trip to Pole. Expedition focus is on the global crisis involving access to fresh water.
Karen Darke
is a 38-year-old paraplegic Scottish woman who is planning to be the first to reach Pole using only arm power, on a "sit-ski." She has been seriously training in Greenland and Patagonia for a team venture supported out of Union Glacier, now postponed until 2013-14 (main expedition site). She was to be accompanied by her cyclist brother Simon, climber Andy Kilpatrick, and triathlete Mike Christie.

Announced for 2012-13 but never happened (?)
 
Ben Thackwray
from Leeds, England, completed a fast 2-man ski crossing of southern Greenland in May 2010. He announced that this was a precursor to a planned Pole venture with Ian Couch and Niall McCann, now planned for 2012-13 known as the Endure More expedition. It was planned to be the "first unsupported/unassisted crossing of Antarctica" from Berkner Island to McMurdo via the Axel Heiberg Glacier...a follow-up to his summit of Everest in May 2011. There hasn't been much recent news on the web site or elsewhere.
Kasim Rafiq
is a Scottish adventurer and student at Edinburgh University. He announced that he was planning an unsupported trip from Hercules Inlet to Pole in the 2012-13 season...his goal was to be the youngest Briton (age 22) to ski the distance to Pole without outside help. He will be guided. Hmmm, he said he'd start in November but there never was more recent recent news. Last word, he was training...and working to raise the estimated £40,000 that the venture will cost.
The Spirit of Scott Expedition
was announced in July by Brits Alan Chambers and Edward Coats, with support from Yahoo!. They planned to do a resupplied return trip to Pole from Scott's hut on Ross Island. Alan has previously guided ten North Pole ventures, Edward went on one of these, and also went to the South Pole with Ben Fogle and James Cracknell on the Amundsen Omega 3 South Pole Race in 2008-09. They planned to start in October, but I haven't found any recent information or a web site.

Yes, it really is sealift time...and the icebreaker will be first. The Russian icebreaker Vladimir Ignatyuk left the Cape Town area on 9 January 2013, heading southeast. The reported ETA at McMurdo is 2 February. Ocean Giant As for the cargo ships, on 18 January US time, the Military Sealift Command (MSC) announced what we all hoped and suspected...they are en route. The MSC- chartered container ship Ocean Giant departed Port Hueneme on 17 January, loaded with nearly 3500 tons of stuff (right, a 17 January US Navy photo). And no modular pier components(!) It's expected to reach McMurdo in mid-February after a stop in Lyttelton. Meanwhile, the tanker Maersk Peary is in the southern Indian Ocean (about 25ºS on 19 January), it will show up first. Oh yes, the Nathaniel B. Palmer will show up around 7 February after a long science cruise from PA. The Polar Star after sea trials at Seattle

Speaking of icebreakers...perhaps next year at this time the USAP icebreaker will be flying the Stars and Stripes. Yes, in December, the 34-year-old Coast Guard icebreaker Polar Star was reactivated in Seattle after a four-year, $57 million overhaul (Seattle Times article). And on 11 January it completed its initial sea trials (left, the Polar Star returning to port) (USCG photo from their Facebook page). It is one of the world's most powerful icebreakers...and at present it is one of only two American polar icebreakers in service.

And speaking of ships which recently sailed from Cape Town...Ran Fiennes' "Coldest Journey" team sailed on 7 January. The expedition ship S. A. Agulhas (a South African ice-strengthened training ship and former polar research vessel, built in 1977 and used for 30 years to resupply the South African research bases in the Antarctic), headed more directly south from Cape Town toward Crown Bay (70ºS-23ºE). They reached that unloading point on 20 January...and after about 2 weeks of unloading and assembly work, the ship headed north on 3 February...leaving Ran Fiennes and the rest of the team on the ice to begin their travels south.

Other means of travel in the news...former NASA astronaut Scott Parazynski spent three days at Pole in mid-January...oh yes, he's now the USAP medical director with UTMB--that may a more difficult job at times than his five space shuttle missions. Scott also visited Palmer Station in December.

ice pier on 12 December 2012As the annual shipping season approaches...attention once again focuses on the McMurdo ice pier. Despite the warm temperatures, it appears to be holding up so far...insulated under all that dirt. But all has not been well... what a difference a month makes. At left...a photo from around 12 December 2012 from ARA team member Mike DuVernois on his way to Pole. ice pier on 11 January 2013However...that snow bridge didn't seem to be surviving the heat wave. So...on 14 December the snow bridge was blasted away along with some of the surrounding ice (YouTube video posted by LDB engineer Richard Bose), and the pier was pulled closer to the wharf...so as to allow a New Zealand Army team to erect a Bailey bridge. The result...that 11 January photo (right) which has been making the rounds lately. If the ship would show up next week, everything would be fine. But we must wait a bit. And I've also heard that the sea ice in McMurdo Sound may be heavy enough to create a bit more work for the icebreaker than last year...stay tuned. I'm not any good at guessing the sea ice thickness from looking at photos....but at right below is a 10 January MODIS image (source link, from which you can navigate to other images/dates/areas). Note that the top of the photo is south; Ross Island is in the center. I looked back at the past week's images and things were pretty cloudy on most days...I couldn't see what was happening in the northern Ross Sea.10 January McMurdo sea ice

Antarctic drilling projects have been hot news topics this season...back in early November 2012, Peter Rejcek discussed the three biggest ones in this Antarctic Sun article. The most newsworthy of these projects from last season is of course the Russian penetration of Lake Vostok...but there hasn't been much recent news about it...until 11 January 2013, when the Russian state news agency RIA Novosti reported that the first ice sample of the season had been recovered from the borehole. The sample was recovered from a depth of 3406m/11,175' (a fair distance above the lake surface at 3769m/12,365'). So is it contaminated with drilling fluid? Too little information...presumably we'll hear of more drilling progress later this austral summer, as well as future plans to probe into the lake itself. Their immediate plans are to continue drilling to 3430m/11,253'. Before this news came out, I collected (and summarized) Russia's project technical reports, which were submitted to the Antarctic Treaty meetings each year. Including the fact that they had difficulty evaluating the drilling fluid density because of (inadvertent) hydraulic fracturing. The much-publicized BAS Lake Ellsworth project is located at 79ºS-99.5ºW...175 miles northeast of the ANI/ALE base camp at Union Glacier. (The heavy cargo was flown to UG on the IL-76 aircraft and traversed to the drill site by ALE.) Unfortunately, the effort to drill 10,500' to the lake surface had to be called off after their unique drilling concept failed--they'd planned to balance the lake water pressure (and prevent the drill water from entering the lake or geysering out of the hole) by connecting the drill hole with an underice water reservoir (what we'd call a rodwell bulb full of water) but they were unable to make the two connect. Back to the drawing board.... Here's the project blog (with links to the project web sites), 27 December BBC coverage of the project termination, and an April 2012 BAS presentation by David Blake which describes/depicts the drill scheme and its development (from the 2012 Polar Technology Conference which I attended). And then there is that USAP project, WISSARD, hoping to tap into subglacial Lake Whillans sometime later this month. One of the SPoT teams started hauling their equipment to the site (600+ miles SE of McM near the south edge of the Ross Ice Shelf) on 30 December (due to show up by 12 January). Here's their project home page and blog. Unlike Vostok and Ellsworth, Lake Whillans is not an isolated lake, but rather it is part of an extensive network of lakes and channels running under the ice. It is only about 10m deep, and about 800m/half a mile below the ice surface. They're also using a hot water drill system, which some media (such as this October 2011 New Scientist article) describe as the same method used by the BAS Lake Ellsworth team. But actually the system is more like something from IceCube...and since the team is packed with IceCube veterans as well, it ought to work. Here's their page with photos, information, and a schematic diagram (P&ID) of the drill system.

Not to leave Pole out of the drilling discussion...there is a new approved deep ice coring project in the planning stages--the South Pole Ice Core Project has been funded for a 1500m/4900' ice coring project, planned for the 2014-15 and 2015-16 Antarctic field seasons. The project consortium includes UCI, UW, and UNH...and they had a planning workshop in Boulder across the street from my apartment (!) And in more recent news, the ARA project completed drilling their 12 210m antenna holes at Pole on 31 December, and they're now doing the wiring and testing.

2013 Pole MarkerHappy New Year! The holiday season was celebrated with traditions old and new...gift exchange, Round the World Race, Marathon, New Years Eve concert, the unveiling of the Pole marker (right)...and other things I won't mention. And the new Rodwell 3 was finally placed in service the weekend before New Years. Further north at McMurdo, warm weather had softened the runway, meaning that the LC-130's couldn't carry their full cargo load (perhaps a good thing that the C-17s had gone away for the middle of the summer--they'd probably have trouble landing at all). The melting was exacerbated by a dust storm which blew a lot of black dust over the snow surface. From last report there is lots of mail, cargo, freshies, etc., that is not moving south from Christchurch. And the road to Pegasus has softened as well, resulting in long slow travel times. In fact, sometimes wheeled vehicles have been forced to use a "magic carpet"--a plastic sled similar to those used for fuel bladders by the traverse, and towed by a Challenger or similar tracked vehicle. These have been used for anything from passenger vans up to Ivan the Terra Bus.

South Pole welcome sign The solstice has passed meaning the summer is about half over already! But things have been happening...not exactly construction of a new elevated station, but folks have been busy nonetheless. Although the tourist crowd is expected to be much smaller than last year, the first skiers and other visitors have already shown up, so the visitor center has been erected again(!) and the welcome sign has been moved in front of DA (left). Oh yes, Boyd Brown assures me that the sign says the same thing on both sides...like some other small towns I've spent time in. As for some of the construction and science projects...here's what has been happening so far.

After the solstice of course comes the major holiday season of Christmas and New Years...traditionally a time for great dinners, athletic events, and big parties. I'll leave it to Jeffrey Donenfeld to describe a couple of the events...one of the newer traditions is the all-station holiday photo--he includes a video of its creation. As for the athletic events, the Race around the World comes off on Christmas Eve, and it has a rather dramatic course. This event was first created by Casey Jones and Martha Kane Savage in December 1979...before that there used to be a football game, we played the Pole Bowl on Christmas Day in 1976.

101 year anniversary of Amundsen's arrival101 years ago, on 14 December 1911, Amundsen showed up here. Last year at this time a big multinational crowd assembled to commemorate that event, and this year we have this new tradition...flying the Norwegian flag at the Pole on 14 December (photo from Andrea Dixon).

first 737 aircraft to land in AntarcticaSome interesting aviation news from the other side of the continent...on 28 November local time, the first Boeing 737 aircraft landed in Antarctica, on the 10,000-foot blue ice runway at the Norwegian Troll Station. Troll is located 150 miles from the coast in Queen Maud Land. The six-hour flight from Cape Town was commissioned by the Norwegian Polar Institute (NPI) and operated by PrivatAir, a business/private aviation operator (left; press release photo © NPI). Passengers included NPI researchers and support personnel, some invited guests, and a team of experienced aircraft operations folks to assess the event. The flight returned to Cape Town the next day. Here's the NPI news article (Norwegian page translated by Google) with more photos, the PrivatAir press release page, and the PDF version. What does this mean for the future of Antarctic air transport? Too soon to tell, although this success needs to be viewed in context with two other significant 2012 news items: the USAP Blue Ribbon Panel report which recommended construction of an ice runway for large wheeled aircraft at Pole; and the incipient failure of Australia's constructed ice runway, the Wilkins Aerodrome (40 miles from Casey) due to melting in midsummer (October 2012 Crikey.com.au article). A new rock-surfaced runway in the ice-free Vestfold Hills (near Davis) may be considered as a long-term alternative.

2012-13 modifications to the South Pole Telescope5 December...it is summer at Pole, and construction is well underway. The jacks were installed under the heavy shop, and by now the leveling process should be underway if not complete. As for science stuff...the SuperDARN control building is being created out of the old SPASE-2 module...it and the antennas will be installed on the east side of the fuel arch. The ARA team has been setting up their hot water drilling equipment for antenna installation...and the SPT folks have begun installing yet another version of a ground shield (right, photo from Amy Bender). This is shield attempt number four, not counting the original plan for a huge inverted dome, bigger than the one that covered the old station. It would have been fabricated by TEMCOR, the same company that brought us the old dome.

Big Dead Place coverA strange bit of news came out on 28 November 2012...Nicholas Johnson, the author of Big Dead Place (left, Amazon.com link) committed suicide. The news announcement from his publisher is rather crass...in fact, when I first saw this I assumed it was something Nick had dreamed up, but I have confirmed that it is true. I much prefer to read this tasteful blog post by Jason Anthony. Nick wintered in McMurdo more than once, in 2001 and 2008 at least, and at Pole in 2004, and we'd been in touch for the past 10 years. He had a way with words, sarcasm, humor, and a sense of the Antarctic Program, and he will be missed.

South Pole Traverse status map from 28 November On 29 November the first South Pole Traverse (SPoT) arrived at Pole, only 25 days after leaving McMurdo. I don't know if it is a record, but it is definitely faster than some of the previous ones...although it still had to deal with soft snow on the Plateau. At right, their status map from the day of arrival...after a few days at Pole unloading and resting, they continued on to AGAP to recover fuel and camp materials. Meanwhile, the second traverse, which left McM a few days later on 12 November, reached the top of the Leverett Glacier on 27 November, where they left a depot of 24 bladders/72,000 gallons of fuel at 86º02.221'S, 142º13.334'W and turned around, heading to McMurdo (27 November status map and sitrep. The depoted fuel will be taken to Pole later; meanwhile the next mission for the Traverse#2 team will be to haul cargo for the WISSARD project.

Thanksgiving weekend, 24-25 November 2012...by now the early season flight delays have mostly been resolved...the major science groups (IceCube/ARA and SPT) have summer teams on site to do what needs to be done, and the summer construction projects are underway. Well, perhaps not this weekend, as Saturday is the day for the big dinner and the first day of a two-day weekend. There are about 155 folks on station, a few are living in the summer camp Hypertats, the only part of summer camp that is being used.

satellite availabilty screen on Thanksgiving weekendDuring late winter, some more satellite tests were conducted with another of the SKYNET-4 series, as the original candidate, SKYNET-4C, got moved so that it was hidden behind the dark sector structures, and RF interference was a concern. Anyway, the tests were successful, so now the NATO-IVB satellite is providing ~4 hours of T1 access per day, currently in the early morning hours (left, a glimpse at the scroll during Thanksgiving weekend). Yeah, what's a T1 line amongst 155 people? Well, it is 4 more hours of internet access than was previously available. Here's a bit of older information about the project.

By Friday 8 November, all but a very few of the 2012 winterovers had headed north...some have made it back to North America already. And the summer people and some of the winterovers have continued to arrive from McMurdo, despite some aggravating flight delays, boomerangs, and cancellations. Both of the 2013 IceCube winterovers have arrived and are busy learning everything. These guys are Felipe Pedreros...who will be the first Chilean to winter, and Blaise Kuotiong...the first winterover originally from the Philippines. And in amongst such things as fire team training, job training, altitude sickness, they've also been blogging and posting photos! Check out the links!

Meanwhile, on the other side of the continent, the tourist season is getting started. The Union Glacier camp is up and running, and the first Pole venturer on the ice is American Aaron Linsdau, aiming to be only the fourth person and the first American to travel to Pole and back without assistance or resupply (ulp, that means not one cookie or drink of water from the Polies). He started his trek from Hercules Inlet on 2 November. And last week another American, Eric Larsen of Boulder, CO, announced that he'll make a solo bicycle trip to Pole starting in December 2012.

Surprisingly on short notice, the second flight arrived on Tuesday 30 October...it was a cargo flight bringing no new people, but it took the first winterovers north. All Pole flights were cancelled on Wednesday for mechanical reasons...Thursday, plans changed several times, but an evening Herc flight brought in 40 more folks. The summer is truly underway! And on Monday the next passenger flight happened...scheduled to take about 25 of the winterovers north. A few of them who left earlier are already back in the US.

passengers get off the first LC-130 flight to Pole in the 2012-13 season

The folks on the Friday (26 October 2012) flight to Pole waited on the ice runway because of a mechanical delay...until 1300. Then the flight was cancelled. On Saturday the Pole flight was an alternate to WAIS...but the first flight to Pole did take off, and landed at Pole around noon on Saturday. At right...some of the new arrivals getting off of the aircraft (photo from Carlos Pobes). Winter is over!

Yes, the big airplanes are coming. The first of the NYANG LC-130's left Schenectady NY for the ice on the 16th and 17th...(Air National Guard article). And the first one, Skier 81, reached McMurdo at 1800 on Tuesday 23 October. For a time it was announced that the first Pole flight would be on Thursday the 25th...a day ahead of schedule...and the weather looked good for the first 30 or so Polies to head south. But no...it was cancelled. Then it was to go on Friday the 26th...or.......whenever. Watch the Pole weather and the McMurdo weather...

Basler aircraft on deck at PoleTwin Otter at Pole on 22 October The Pole isolation ended after noon on Friday 19 October, when the first KBA aircraft, Basler MKB, showed up from Rothera for a one-hour refueling stop en route to McMurdo (left, photo by Sven Lidstrom). Its arrival had been delayed a couple of days. The aircraft and its crew of four did not enter the station...yes, they did bring freshies--including onions as well as fruit (all were enjoyed). A Twin Otter (KBG) was scheduled to arrive that day as well, but that flight was postponed until Monday the 22nd...it showed up at 1235. It was followed at 1300 by another Basler. These aircraft brought more freshies, as well as wine (!) The second Basler (JKB, below left) was chartered to the Australian program and was on the way to Davis. The Twin Otter stayed overnight before continuing on to McMurdo; the Australian Basler and crew stayed for several days because of bad weather at Davis...most recently they were scheduled to depart Pole at Basler aircraft heading to Davis Station 1300 on the 25th (the three photos displayed on this page are by Sven Lidstrom from the Antarctic Photo Library). Here's an Antarctic Sun article with additional photos. More KBA USAP aircraft--another Basler and another Twin Otter, were still en route. Some of these aircraft as well as a BAS Twin Otter were spotted in Punta Arenas on 15 October Chilean time, and another BAS Twin Otter was already headed for Rothera. The original plans called for the first Pole passenger flights to start on the 26th using NYANG LC-130s.

Cynthia Chiang at PoleI spent several days in Colorado Springs between 17 and 21 October...among other things attending some of the Antarctic events being held as part of the Colorado Springs Cool Science Festival. Thursday evening I attended a presentation about the "Cleanest Air on Earth" by Brian Vasel, a 2002 and 2003 NOAA winterover who is currently the NOAA observatory director based in Boulder. Wednesday's presentations included a talk by Katy Jensen and a discussion by Paul Sullivan about the South Pole telescopes...this event included a video conference with Pole featuring IceCubers Sven Lidstrom and Carlos Pobes, South Pole Telescope folks Cynthia Chiang and Nicholas Huang, as well as greenhouse technician Joselyn Fenstermacher. One amazing comment I heard afterward was about a 15-year-old high school student who was extremely impressed by seeing Cynthia (right) talk about physics. Moderators and organizers included Dave Bresnahan and Carol Crossland--Carol was the first woman to winter at all three USAP Antarctic stations...and amazingly I had lunch on Thursday with Rachel Javorsek who just finished a winter at Palmer and is now only the second woman to winter at all 3 stations (so far as I know...have I missed anyone?)

Australian Airbus flight landing at McMurdo on 1 Octobernew passenger transport vehicle at McMurdo1 October brought the first of the main body flights to McMurdo...the prelude was the Christchurch arrival of the Air Force C-17 on Sunday 30 September (Press article). The Australian Airbus-319 arrived first (left), followed later in the day by the C-17. A total of 130 passengers arrived, so the McMurdo population is starting to swell to summer proportions. And the Kress trailer (right) is something new in ground transportation. These two 1 October photos are both by Bobby Werner from the Antarctic Photo Library; here's a closer view of that passenger trailer. The next phase of the Air Force operations were to begin later in October when the LC-130's start heading south (Military.com article). A total of about 50 Air Force flights from Christchurch to McMurdo are planned.

The McMurdo summer population, like that at Pole, will be a bit smaller this year. Many of the departments have been cut at least 20%, and other cutbacks first mentioned at the annual planning conference held in Arlington in June are being implemented. For example, there will be no C-17 flights from ChCh to McM from the end of November to mid-January...and this of course will result in a cutback in freshies and mail, as well as transportation for people before and after the Christmas holidays. Another McM innovation is "the smell of fresh paint" which involves the first phase of dorm renovations, the new McMurdo ice pier in September 2012described in the 21 September "around the continent" Antarctic Sun report as well as this article which details the dorm renovations as well as changes in the housing policy. Other McM changes involve the shuffling of facilities...no more yoga in the chapel...the gerbil gym moves to the library, and the library gets shrunk and moved to a dorm lounge. On the construction front, work has already started on another new fuel tank, and the new ice pier, which was started in early July, had reached its minimum acceptable thickness of 18 feet by 19 September (right, photo by Mike Rice). From this angle, it looks a bit smaller than the last one, but it means that the backlog of trash and garbage may get sent north this season. As for Pole...the lack of freshies during the midsummer period will affect things here as well, as the greenhouse will be shut down again this summer...for cleaning, repairs, budget cuts, and/or the operational change, as the University of Arizona is no longer involved. And speaking of Pole, many of the 2013 winterovers are in Denver last week and this week, doing psych tests, trauma and fire training. And yes, I got together with a few of them last weekend....

the new worst journey in the world?The last big Antarctic adventure...or another disaster in the making, perhaps comparable to Scott's demise 100 years ago? The ceaselessly intrepid British adventurer Ranulph Fiennes is planning another trans-Antarctic crossing...for next winter (see map at left from the expedition web site)--appropriately titled The Coldest Journey. Their preliminary plans have them arriving at Queen Maud Land by ship in mid-January, at the Lazarev Sea coast near Novo. Starting on 21 March 2013, their motorized venture will head south using the traverse route more recently used by Extreme World Races/Arctic Trucks. They plan to arrive at Pole in mid-June. They then will continue to McMurdo along the USAP South Pole Traverse route, arriving on about 21 September. Hmmmm. Here's the 17 September BBC News article as well as a link to his web site and blog. And more information is out from Alexander Kumar, the British physician who wintered at (and blogged from) Conncordia in 2012. He reports in his 21 September blog post that the expedition has been secretly planned for 4 years; he also provides more freeze dried Levi's? detail about the venture and promises to provide more details about it (and discuss his own involvement) in his next blog post.

Ran last showed up on Pole with his snowmobile-equipped Transglobe Expedition in December 1980...in sunlight and summer temperatures--at right is Ran (left) with station manager Tom Plyler discussing a certain article of clothing (perhaps from a sponsor) of a type commonly worn at Pole (more info and photos). The following northern summer I met him and the team when their ship, en route to the Arctic, stopped in Los Angeles for a trade show.

After a fairly significant storm, with wind chill approaching -100ºC, things finally cleared up enough for the sun to peek through the haze on 22 September. The sunrise dinner was Saturday the 15th. But it is still cool...there was yet another 300 Club event in early September...about #8 for the season. Sorry, you'll have to go elsewhere for photos :)

Josiah (Siah) Heiser, the heavy equipment operator during my 2008 winter, has just published a book about his life...from growing up, to his work on the ice which included much time at McMurdo as well as Pole...to the present time (he and wife are currently living in the Philippines). The book is now available on Kindle (readable on most anything) at Amazon.com, for not very much money (here's his blog with information and purchase link). I highly recommend it!

come fly with meWinfly is over at last. The first of the six flights departed on the scheduled Monday 20 August date, but it turned into an eleven-hour boomerang, as the forecast bad weather at McM materialized at the wrong time. What may have been worse than being on the flight...the McM passengers WERE waiting at Pegasus when Condition 1 was declared...a truck carrying baggage lost the flag line and went off the road...after a long wait, all of the vehicles made it slowly back to town. Oh well. The latest storm was to get even worse, and last for a couple of days, so the Tuesday flight was canceled. And on Wednesday morning it was still Condition 1 at Pegasus, so that day's flight was canceled as well. Thursday morning...McMurdo weather was better, things were back to Condition 3, and that evening the flight arrived, boosting the population by 120 people. But the second flight did not arrive until Monday 27 August...the date when the last of the flights had originally been scheduled, before Mother Antarctica had her way. The last of the six flights reached McMurdo on 31 August NZ time (31 August Antarctic Sun update) and Military.com article). The McM population is now over 400.

Discussing Winfly...here's a 17 August US Air Force press release about this year's Operation Deep Freeze (ODF); it featured the logo at right...I don't know if this is new, but I don't recall seeing it before. More coverage of Winfly the and summer season is this 17 August Antarctic Sun article...which also describes some of the upcoming events for the 2012-13 summer season. Some things we already knew...such as the 168-person Pole population, and attention to the Blue Ribbon Panel report which was released in July. Other items of note...the first main body flight to McM is scheduled for 1 October, and the Pole opening flight is scheduled for 26 October...with a USAF LC-130 rather than a Basler. One of the major construction projects at McM this season will be another 2-million-gallon fuel tank--it would give the station a better capability to operate for 2 years without a fuel resupply. And the status of the ice pier is still questionable due to a warmer-than-usual winter.

As for other summer projects at Pole...it is time to do some jacking and leveling of the station, as well as the VMF (garage) building. Hopefully the permanent fuel line from the fuel arch through LO to the VMF arch and under the station toward the flight line will finally be finished, so that the fuel hose can be rolled up for good sometime during the summer. The Old Pole site needs a bit more remediation...using either heavy equipment or explosives. And there will be another attempt to establish communications with another new old satellite, either Skynet-4c or a similar one. The 2012 winter is the last currently scheduled for the BICEP-2 telescope, which is the only all-year science project requiring significant amounts of liquid helium (June Antarctic Sun article). The cryo building will be used for another science project, and there will no longer be cryo tech position after the 2012-13 summer.

Google Street View update...it seems that the team also collected photos INSIDE the elevated station!. You can start here inside the galley and navigate through the hallway to Destination Alpha, and then descend the stairs outside the gym to the first floor! It's a bit discontinuous, but here are a lot of things to see along the way, including even a few Polies.

Thursday 9 August...a medevac flight to McMurdo was underway. As is usual, there were not many details, but there is an interesting twist or two, as well as the usual media kerfuffle. The aircraft of choice is the Airbus A-319 that the AAD now uses for transport to Wilkins Aerodrome, the artificial ice runway near Casey. The aircraft and a 5-person medical team arrived in Chch on 8 August from Melbourne, via Hobart, and they departed for McM on the 9th, expecting to arrive there at 1300 McM/SP time, per this updated CNN article. Here is the 8 August (US time) an 8 August (US time) NSF press release. As a backup, a US Air Force C-17 is on standby in the US. Winfly was originally scheduled for later this month, with six C-17 flights to McM between 20 and 27 August. The media has been confusing things by showing old photos of the South Pole dome and referring to other Pole medevacs. This ABC Australia Radio article stated that McMurdo's Pegasus runway was "open all year round," which some of the equipment operators at McMurdo might take issue with. And the CNN report states that there are "60 or 70" folks wintering at McMurdo...actually there were 153, with another 14 souls at Scott Base. The update...the flight was successful, it was on deck at the Pegasus airfield at McM for about an hour on 9 August during the midday twilight, and returned to ChCh, arriving about 1700 that evening. The weather at McM was good, the temperature was -31ºF/-35ºC when the aircraft landed. fly meThis was probably the earliest landing of a large wheeled aircraft during the austral winter. Here's the second NSF press release of 9 August which announces the successful completion; it also reports that an additional passenger left McMurdo on the flight because of compelling personal circumstances. The press release includes a file photo (left) of one of the first test landings of the Australian A-319 (on the annual sea ice runway) in November 2007 (photo by Ralph Maestas from the Antarctic Photo Library). Also, here is the 9 August Christchurch Press article with a photo of the aircraft in Christchurch. Afterward, the AAD Airbus returned to Hobart, arriving on Friday morning (ABC Australia article). Oh, and in a postscript, the AAD director stated that Australia would pay the the costs of the medevac (10 August Sydney Morning Herald story). Remember that the USAP has assisted in several medevacs from Australian stations over the years, including this one in November 2008.

On a related note, Renée-Nicole Douceur, the 2011 Pole winter site manager who suffered a stroke in August 2011, is reported to be recovering from that mishap, "...about 80 percent back by now," in her words. She's been recovering since April, living in her luxury coach "The Gypsy Queen" in Hampton Falls, NH, and she hopes to head for Wyoming. She hasn't ruled out a lawsuit, and there may also be a book. The complete story is in this 8 August Newburyport (MA) Daily News article.

Another medical update on a more positive note...UTMB, the ASC medical subcontractor, recently hired Dr. Scott E. Parazynski as the director of their Center for Polar Medical Operations. Scott, as an astronaut, flew on five space shuttle missions, and is also a serious mountain climber--he's the first astronaut to summit Everest in 2009. Here's the UTMB press release.

the tip of the icebergThat long-awaited NSF Blue Ribbon Panel report addressing the future of the US Antarctic Program WAS announced and released on 23 July. My brief summary...Pole is in good shape because there's a new station, but the rest of the USAP needs some improvement in infrastructure and logistics, such as that pier at Palmer that was obsolete 25 years ago when I was involved with the engineering study for its replacement that never happened. (Ulp...25 years ago??? I'm getting old...my first visit to the ice was 40 years ago). The only Pole-specific recommendation is for a hard-surface runway so that wheeled C-17s and other large aircraft can land. That is a hard problem. Although many studies have been done over the years, and some have stated that the solution was imminent, the real story is that every other Antarctic ice runway that has been certified for large wheeled aircraft is based on blue ice, and there isn't any of that at Pole.

Several links to note. First and most important, the actual page to download the full report or the executive summary is here. My summary? I defer to others; actually the executive summary is good, or a shorter excellent one was written by Peter Rejcek in this Antarctic Sun article. For more background information, this NSF page includes links to the 23 July webcast which announced the panel's results, as well as shorter video statements by panel chairman Norm Augustine and members Don Hartill, Bart Gordon, and Duncan McNabb, and acknowledgement of the report cover art (right) by NSF illustrator Zina Deretsky. Three of the panel members, Hugh Ducklow, Lou Lanzerotti, and Diana Wall, have spent lots of time doing research in Antarctica, and Hugh spent much of the 2008 winter at Palmer studying microplankton.

A couple of other interesting news stories have been making the rounds this week. First, this 17 July feature from the Washington Post's weather blog, "South Pole weather: 200 degrees of separation from Washington D.C.'s scorching heat." It features commentary from several winterovers, including meteorologist Dale Hershlag, IceCuber Sven Lidstrom, South Pole Telescope observer Cynthia Chiang, and physician Dale Mole...and if that isn't enough, given the current Washington D.C summer heat, there is a link to Antarctic jobs (!) And earlier this month the discovery of the Higgs boson stirred new interest in IceCube; one of several good articles appeared in the Huffington Post...this features one of Sven's many amazing outdoor winter photos.

show me the road homeGoogle Street View hits Pole! Yes...it doesn't matter that there aren't any "streets," but Google has been continuing to expand their Antarctic coverage (left). All of this interest started when Google employee David "Pablo" Cohn (his blog) took a sabbatical from the Mountain View company to work the Pole help desk for the 2010-11 summer. Over the past year they've improved their mapping coverage, and on 17 July at the international SCAR meetings in Portland, OR (meeting web site), they announced some enhanced Street View coverage not only outside, but also inside some of the historic huts on Ross Island, as well as the Crary Lab and the BFC at McMurdo. The Pole coverage features the roof of DSL including the BICEP2 and South Pole Telescopes, as well as the Ceremonial Pole. The Google team visited the ice in November 2011 with the Street View camera system to capture the images. Two links...here's the Google Lat Long Blog which briefly describes the project and links to some of the video, and here is the gallery link which includes all of the current Antarctic collections. And as well, here is a December 2011 Antarctic Sun article about the Google/USAP collaboration...but since Sun editor Peter Rejcek had lunch in Portland on 16 July with Alex Starns, the Google technical program manager for Street View, Paul Morin, director of the University of Minnesota's Polar Geospatial Center, Pablo, and other perpetrators, I expect a revised article soon.

Got helicopters? It seems that the contract for McM helo's, currently held by PHI, (company web site), is up for renewal, effective for the 2013-14 season. PHI got the original contract in 1996, taking over from the Navy flight squadron (VXE-6). Here's an Examiner news article, as well as the fedbizopps.gov announcement page which has additional links and info.

da boatIn a surprise announcement released by NSF on 3 July, arrangements with Russia's Murmansk Shipping Company have been concluded successfully, so the diesel icebreaker Vladimir Ignatyuk will again handle the McMurdo Sound icebreaking and escort operations for the upcoming 2012-13 season. According to the NSF announcement, the agreement follows a series of technical discussions with the shipping company. Here is the NSF press release, as well as a 6 July AAAS/Science Insider news report. The one-year contract with renewal options was originally announced 25 August 2011; more details about the Canadian-built vessel and the original contract can be found here. At right is the vessel in front of Hut Point on 26 January 2012; this photo was taken by Steve Royce and can be found in the Antarctic Photo Library.

A celebration of life for Kathie Hill was held in the Denver area on 4 August (details).

Time to highlight some excellent artistic work. First, Anthony Powell, from Hawera, NZ, has spent 9 winters on the ice (and a few more summers), some with his wife, working at Scott Base, McMurdo, and under NSF Artists and Writers grants. His work has appeared in various places around the world, most recently in the BBC "Frozen Planet" series. Now he's in the final stage of putting together his feature film, "Antarctica: A Year on the Ice," a ten-year project. He's been soliciting funds on Kickstarter, offering copies of the completed DVD and other goodies...it now has been successfully funded, and the Kickstarter preorder period has now closed. But there may be other options to preorder, stay tuned. A glimpse of Anthony (Antz) is at left along with the first trailer; his website is here, it also includes the time-lapse video of the 2012 McMurdo ship offload. His frozensouth.com blog includes both the first and second trailers.

Another worthwhile project, although a bit smaller, is already funded, This is "Mikey Going Down the Book" put together my Mikey Kampmann from Portland, OR (and Portlandia) while working at Pole last summer. The kickstarter preorder period has now closed, but stay tuned to mikey going down for other options.

The NSF/USAP annual planning conference, 26-28 June 2012 in Virginia, is over. And a bit more news about the upcoming seasons is coming out. The lingering contingencies that were discussed include the possibility of no icebreaker in the upcoming summer, the thin condition of the sea ice around McMurdo (which could affect the science projects traditionally based on the annual ice, not to mention the annual ice runway), and planning for the ice pier (well, if there IS an icebreaker). Closer to Pole...the peak summer population this season may be only 168...or to put it into my perspective, only 200% of the planned peak population for my first season in 1976-77. Instead of opening summer camp (which still has that frozen sewer outfall, remember?) a couple of Hypertats would be moved over close to the station to house the peak population; the occupants would use the bathroom facilities inside the station. I wonder if they'll try and move the freshly upgraded solar-powered Hypertats...perhaps if it can be done this way as was done with the Jamesways in 1997-98.

the nifty fiftyMidwinters weekend is over...and the sun is slowly moving back up toward the Pole horizon. The celebration and the food seems to get bigger and better every year. At right is the official midwinter greeting photo (more information)...and be sure to check out the great photos by Robert and Cynthia!

Kathie in happier timesMore sad news...TWO Polies lost their lives in a one-week period at the end of May. Kathie Hill Baker, for many years the met coordinator for RPSC (and a 1993 and 1995 winterover) was tragically murdered in Whidbey Island, Washington, on about 2 June. Her husband Al Baker, who wintered in 2001 and since then has been the Pole science support coordinator, has been arrested and charged with first degree murder. I didn't know Kathie personally, but we'd been in contact. This whole story left me seriously shaken. Here's a tribute page, with that amazing photo of Kathie (right) as well as some even more impressive commentary by the photographer. Lockheed-Martin ASC has offered counseling to Polies past and present.

A week earlier, 2011-12 summer carpenter Jesse Peterson died in a Colorado canoeing accident (story below).

The middle of June...things were quiet on the ice. Well, after all, it is the month of midwinter (and the McMurdo folks celebrated on the weekend of 16-17 June). And it has also been cold. At Pole the temperatures dipped back into 3 digits (scroll image and weekly climate summary), with, of course, some of the traditional events associated with that phenomenon.

So...much of the major ice news is happening north of 60ºS. First, it must be said that folks are being hired for next season...PQ's are underway...and planning for the summer is happening. On the jobs front, next year's Pole winter site manager has been hired and starts work on 2 July, but there are still lots of openings out there. Is it too late to apply? Well, maybe not, but it is not getting any earlier. Remember, the ASC job postings are on this page, along with links to a few of the other subcontractor positions. ASC announced that they planned to get job offers for next winter for current winterovers made and confirmed by September...but there are lots of other jobs to fill.

Otherwise, what happens in the rest of the world during the middle of the austral winter is...meetings. The biggest one is of course the Antarctic Treaty Consultative Meeting which was held in Hobart between 11-20 June. So far there have not been any earth-shaking announcements, but some of the news of interest includes formal approval of a new Korean station next to the Italians in Terra Nova Bay. This will be a futuristic US$ 91 million 50,000 square foot facility depicted and described in this news article, it will be completed and occupied in March 2014. The Koreans as well as the Chinese were being courted to set up major science/support bases in Hobart. And on the science front, an Australian geographic study identified 15 distinct Antarctic regions--a far cry from the generic East and West Antarctica we are familiar with (AAD press release).

Concurrently with the Treaty meetings, an Australian Green Party spokesperson hosted a forum on 17 June to discuss a proposal to seek World Heritage status for Antarctica...but some consider this to be an opening to reopen the minerals debate (The Conversation blog post).

Other meetings in America...the Blue Ribbon Panel, which visited Antarctica this past season, has held several formal meetings which are documented on the NSF web site. Minutes for the first 3 of the meetings have been published; the first meeting covers the initial charter of the panel, the second is a followup after their visit to Pole and McMurdo, and the third is a later followup after they visited Palmer. The fourth meeting (for which minutes have not been published) addressed the final details of report preparation. Some interesting thoughts...some may get implemented, some we may consider a bit surprising, and some are probably out of the question considering the current state of the economy and the NSF budget. But...remember, the 1997 report by the previous panel resulted in many significant changes...including the final impetus for the current elevated station. The final report is expected to be released before Winfly. Here's the NSF link to the Blue Ribbon Panel documentation; these pages also include other older reports including the seminal 1997 document.

And then there was the NSF USAP Annual Planning Conference, which was held on 26-28 June at a Lockheed Martin facility in Crystal City, Arlington, VA. The conference web site includes the agenda and a list of point papers and discussion items...interestingly, some of these are items of interest which were mentioned in the Blue Ribbon Panel meetings...such as icebreaker support, McMurdo and field camp housing, and a runway at Pole for heavy wheeled aircraft (something that people have been talking about since the early 1960s).

 jesseA sad bit of Pole news from...Colorado. Jesse Peterson, a 2011-12 summer carpenter, was lost on 25 May in a canoe accident in Willow Lake...a remote lake at 11,660 feet, in the Sangre de Cristo Wilderness about 100 miles southwest of Colorado Springs. The canoe overturned, and he disappeared. His companion, Natalie Brechtel from California, made it to the lake shore and was assisted by an Outward Bound team which was training nearby. Jesse, age 27, was from Alma, Colorado. Natalie also worked at Pole last season. At left is the announcement of his remembrance on 9 June; here's a Denver Post article.

The first weekend in June saw the voting for the next version of the South Pole marker, which will be created by machinist Derek Aboltins and unveiled next New Years. There were SEVENTEEN entries in the competition this year!

Remember the dome? The top ring with the five holes was installed at the new Seabee Museum in Port Hueneme last year, but it was incomplete. The American flag was put in place atop the dome ring by Steve Bruce, Lee Mattis, and Jerry Marty, on 29 March 2012 California time (Antarctic Sun article).

Lockheed Martin appears to be progressing with their assumption of the USAP contract. Folks are being hired by them and the subcontractors, the PQ process has been set up by the UTMB (University of Texas Medical Branch) in Galveston, the same organization that studied my swollen knee during my 2008 winter. And plans are being made for next summer (well, assuming there is an icebreaker, see below). At present it looks like the station opening will be one or more LC-130 flights on 27 October, rather than Baslers.

The auroras have been amazing this year, or at least so it seems compared to my 3 winters (well, I thought they were amazing then). In addition to miscellaneous photos posted by the winterovers on the links page (and I've added a couple more links), check out this Japanese site for the very latest photos and videos from equipment maintained by science tech friend Ethan Good.

On 9 May, NSF announced that the Murmansk Shipping Company, which had contracted to provide the icebreaker Vladimir Ignatyuk for the 2011-12 and future seasons, had advised that the icebreaker would not be available in the future. Here's the "Dear Colleague" letter from Scott Borg, NSF Antarctic division director...and here is a fresh 9 May solicitation by NSF on the FedBizOpps site. They did this last year about this time after the Swedish government withdrew the availability of the Oden. The US Coast Guard icebreaker Polar Star is still in refit and will not be available until 2013. Of historical interest...the solicitation (as did the one in 2011) includes a detailed spreadsheet of US Antarctic icebreaker operations since the IGY.

The denial of the CH2M Hill protest of the contract award to Lockheed Martin was announced tersely by the Government Accountability Office (GAO) on 18 March. Finally on 9 May we have the detailed report, or at least a redacted version. Here's the Washington Technology article with a link to the pdf of the decision (which has now also been included in the GAO decision page.

protect the parts7 April was a cool day at Pole...literally (right)! This year was the earliest ever that the temperature dipped into 3 digits (ºF). The previous earliest running of the 300 Club was also on 7 April in 1982, but this year the temperature dropped below -100ºF about an hour earlier than it did in 1982. Nice to know that Polies are still crazy enough to risk extremities and lungs in this athletic endeavor. The past 12 months have brought several weather records including the highest temperature and the highest recorded wind speed. Here's a fresh Antarctic Sun article.

3-5 April 2012...I attended the annual Polar Technology Conference in Fairlee, VT...close to sponsor CRREL (the US Army Cold Regions Research and Engineering Laboratory) in Hanover NH, not to mention Dartmouth. This is a somewhat ad-hoc production...the conference is a volunteer effort, this one drew about 70 people including new and old friends. NSF was represented by Vladimir Papitashvili, the astrophysics/geospace program director. It was a great experience. The formal discussions included power and communications for small remote data collection stations in the Arctic and Antarctic that need to be powered with wind and solar and high-tech batteries, and equipped with hardware that will send data out via Iridium and other satellite systems. There was also discussion about bigger stuff...the traverses to Summit in Greenland as well as from McMurdo to Pole...the new BAS station at Halley that is currently in its first winter season...and the future plans for Summit and/or nearby stations in the middle of Greenland. bigger, better?One interesting data point...it seems that a consortium from Taiwan, the Academia Sinica Institute of Astronomy and Astrophysics (ASIAA), and the Smithsonian, were recently given a "free" 12 meter telescope...a prototype constructed at the National Radio Astronomy Observatory (NRAO) in New Mexico, for development of the ALMA (the Atacama Large Millimeter/submillimeter Array) in Chile (Academia Sinica news release and February 2011 Nature article), (left, NRAO photo by Kelly Gatlin) (more information and links to larger images and usage info). The consortium is planning to move it to a site at or near Summit...which has hitherto been a small "clean" research site. Two meters bigger than the one at Pole...although it won't be doing any CMBR stuff so it won't need a ground shield, just a foundation...and a bunch of electrical power. Should be interesting.

A bit more "polar technology" news...in mid March a feature story was broadcast on Catalyst, a news program on ABC (the Australian Broadcasting Corporation) highlighting yet another possible communications satellite system to offer broadband communications to Pole and other Antarctic stations, using small satellites (cubes only about 8" on a side) somewhat comparable to mobile phones...or mini cell towers. The concept has been developed at the University of Toronto, and the Australian company, Antarctic Broadband, is currently looking for funding; their current schedule calls for a test launch in 2012 and full deployment by 2014. The satellites would have elliptical polar orbits. The Catalyst video includes a bit of a Pole teleconference with researchers John Kovac and Brad Benson, as well as a "G'day" greeting from Daniel Leussler at the ceremonial Pole. Well, we know that NSF has been looking for more bandwidth between Pole and the rest of the world...in April 2011 a Request for Information was issued looking for industry recommendations for satellite-based broadband communications with Pole. This RFI included an extensive and detailed report on the requirements for such a project.

2 April...Jarle Andhøy was in the news again...his boat Nilaya and crew were arrested by Chilean authorities in Chilean waters while en route to Argentina. They were taken to Puerto Willams...across the Straits of Magellan from Ushuaia, Argentina. The search was conducted in a civil manner...it was reported that the Nilaya would stay at the Argentine base until Busby Noble, the Kiwi who was aboard when the vessel left Auckland, was issued a temporary passport. The vessel and crew were released a week later and headed to Ushuaia. They later sailed to Buenos Aires...Andhøy flew back to Norway on 8 May (update).

31 March...the RPSC contract was at an end, as indicated on their web site. Lockheed-Martin has been updating their contract web site. A bittersweet time especially for the Raytheon full-timers who weren't picked up by the new contractor...reminds me of what happened to Bill Spindler in 1990 when ITT lost the contract. It worked out well for me...I ended up in Alaska, and 15 years later I got back into the program.

In March 2012 I moved to Boulder, Colorado, and one of the first things I did when I got here the last weekend in March was attend the "1970s/1990s H&N/ASA Gathering" at Jim Chambers' place in Parker, just south of Denver. 130+ people there, beautiful weather, and great fun.

get striped

Before the official sunset at Pole, the weather was raunchy...but at the time of the dinner on the 18th visibility started to improve. At left is a 27 March photo of the sun...well below the horizon but refracted above it...next to ARO. With thanks to SPT winterover Cynthia Chiang.

Anthony Powell has put together a fantastic video of the 2012 ship offload...this is the HD version from his web site. He said he used 4 Canon SLRs, and a GoPro HD, condensing over 150,000 photos were condensed down to make this video. The details of the operation are described in this Antarctic Sun article. My collection of time lapse photos and other images is is here.

14 March, there was news that Jarle Andhøy was heading back to the Antarctic...this time to one of the Argentine bases on the Antarctic Peninsula for repairs to a broken boom on his boat Nilaya. There hasn't been much news since then (updates).

13 March, the shadows were getting longer. There was less than a week until the equinox (1814 SP time on Tuesday the 20th), with the sunset happening a few days later. The big dinner was on Sunday evening. New Zealand (and Pole) are still on Daylight Saving Time until the first Sunday in April.

The last flight of the season, a RNZAF B757, left McMurdo shortly after 1800 on 6 March 2012, leaving behind 153 McMurdo winterers as well as 14 at Scott Base (Antarctic Sun article)

I smell smokeOn the other side of the continent, there has been a major fire in the power plant at the Brazilian research station Comandante Ferraz on King George Island. It broke out around midnight local time Friday night (1600 SP time Saturday 25 February 2012) and reportedly destroyed the main station facilities. Two men were killed, and two others were injured. The BBC has excellent coverage here. Comandante Ferraz is located in Admiralty Bay (Wikimedia map) on the south side of King George Island; it is only a few miles from the Polish station Arctowski (where the injured were treated) and Copacabana (the Pieter J. Lenie Field Station), the longtime USAP penguin study site. There were 65 researchers and support personnel on station at the time of the fire. The photo at left is by Pedro Guerreiro, posted on this the Science Today (Portuguese) blog page.

Below...the busy season of trips to Pole in the centennial season of 2011-12...100 years since Amundsen and Scott showed up without an audience.
Amazingly, there were races:
 
The Race to the South Pole
managed by Extreme World Races (EWR) is the successor event to the Amundsen Omega 3 South Pole Race, which was a great success in 2009-10. The 100th year anniversary race in 2011-12 already has eight three-member teams booked, mostly from the UK. The race starts south of Novo from which it is based. After acclimatization and training at Novo, teams will fly to the starting point and travel 500 miles to Pole in 30-45 days--two 250-mile legs with an enforced 24-hour rest stop between them. One of the seven teams is Team SladenWoods, Marc Woods and James Mark...Marc, who lost a leg to cancer, originally was part of the cancelled 2012 Inspire expedition. The teams started arriving in late December...they were taken to the start line by 3 January, and the event officially kicked off on 4 January. The teams arrived at Pole between 21 and 28 January.
The Scott-Amundsen Centenary Race 2011/12
is a British venture that put two 3-man British Army teams on the ice to duplicate Amundsen's and Scott's Pole routes simultaneously! Yes...one team started from Cape Evans, and the other team started from the Bay of Whales site. They will be supported at the start out of Union Glacier, but the treks themselves will be unsupported. The teams...Henry Worsley is leading Amundsen's route; he led the Shackleton Centenary Expedition to Pole in 2008-09). His team members are Lennie Browne and Lou Rudd. Mark Langridge is leading the Scott's route...he did a solo/unsupported Pole journey in 2008-09. His other team members are Vic Vicary and Kev Johnson. This will be a significant venture to watch, since the routes up the Beardmore (Scott's route) and Axel Heiberg glaciers (Amundsen's route) have not been frequently traveled. The teams were flown to their starting points on 3 November and set out the next day, but Lennie Browne of the Amundsen team had to withdraw on 5 November...he was to be picked up and flown back to Union Glacier. Meanwhile, the Scott team went from Cape Evans to McMurdo, where they toured Scott's hut before heading south across the Ross Ice Shelf. As of 11 December both teams were close to their respective glacier climbs to the plateau--the Axel Heiberg and the Beardmore. The Amundsen team arrived on 10 January, the Scott team arrived in the evening of the 17th.

More trips up the Axel Heiberg glacier:
 
South Pole 1911-2011 (the English language site of Sørpolen 2011), is the Norwegians...
Vegard Ulvang, Jan-Gunnar Winther, Harald Dag Jølle, and Stein P. Aasheim, who plan a trip duplicating Amundsen's route up the Axel Heiberg glacier. They also planned to match his arrival date at Pole on 14 December. Here's a NRK press release from last October (in Norwegian). This event is supported by the Norwegian Polar Institute as part of their Nansen-American Year commemoration, here is the Norwegian Polar Institute site about this expedition. They arrived at Union Glacier on 29 October and were flown to their starting point about 25 miles south of the original Framheim location on the 31st and set out the next day. As of 11 December they were at 88°50'S, not far to go...the Twin Otter that flew Asle Johansen of the Nansen to Amundsen expedition to Pole (next listing) passed overhead, landed and picked up some of their gear to lighten their loads. Later, an aircraft returned on the 13th and picked up Jan-Gunnar Winther and Stein Aasheim to get them to Pole in time for the ceremony; Vegard and Harald continued the ski trip...arriving at Pole at 2330 SP time on the 14th.
From Nansen to Amundsen 100 years later (Norwegian language site)
is a trip led by physician Asle T. Johansen, along with Agnar Berg and Gaute Grindhaug. They also started on the Ross Ice Shelf and headed to Pole via Amundsen's route up the Axel Heiberg Glacier...using replicas of Amundsen's equipment and clothing (!) (but not the dogs). The trip intended to commemorate the centenary of Amundsen's trip...in 1988 Asle led three others on a trans-Greenland trek, duplicating Nansen's similar trip 100 years earlier, and also using authentic replica equipment. They were being resupplied. They started on 17 November, As of 2 December they were at 85.73°S, and had just met up with members of the Jubilee Expedition (next link). And on 11 December Asle aborted the trip and was flown to Pole to be present for the centennial, while Agnar and Gaute completed the journey overland.
The South Pole Jubilee Expedition
(expedition blog in English on Børge Ousland's site) was a large mostly-Norwegian unassisted/unsupported venture being guided by Christian Eide and Trond Sundby...the Norwegian participants were Theodor Johansen (age 19!), Silje Molid, Gørild Hustad, Linn Elise Rølvåg, Jacob Meland, and Ottar Haldorsen, along with Rory O'Connor from the UK. Correne Erasmus-Coetzer from South Africa, the Explorersweb correspondent, was originally part of this group but she joined the Børge trip instead--Correne was the first African woman to traverse to Pole, in January 2007. Also involved originally were Russians Victor Bobok and Igor Grishkov. who opted to travel independently from the Norwegians. The main group started at the south end of the Ross Ice Shelf and headed up the Axel Heiberg Glacier, but their departure from Union Glacier was delayed by weather and aircraft issues. (Børge was also involved in the planning, but he was guiding the Last Degree venture discussed below, not this one.) They finally were flown to the starting point on 24 and 25 November and reached the top of the glacier on the 30th. On 14 December they were still 138 km from Pole, they figured this would take them 8-9 more days. They actually arrived on the 19th...and after staying a few days they split up. Trond, Linn Elise, and Ottar headed for home...Ottar had severe frostbite which got infected, he ended up being hospitalized in France. Jacob returned to Union Glacier to prepare for an attempt on Vinson. Meanwhile, the two Russians Victor Bobok and Igor Grishkov, frustrated by the delays, decided to make their venture independently...they were dropped off 250 km from Pole on about 27 November, and arrived at Pole on the 14th just in time for the ceremonies.
Jacob Meland and Ottar Haldorsen
two of the Jubilee Expedition participants, have this Norwegian web site...here's a news article (in Norwegian) from 30 April 2011 which outlined their plans.

Trips from the "Messner Start" (82°10'S-65°W on the Ronne Ice Shelf; this route was pioneered by Reinhold Messner and Arved Fuchs in 1989-90)
 
Erling Rosenstrom
was guiding an expedition sponsored by the Norwegian outfitter Hvitserk...he will guide 5 other men...Kjell Vingen, Arve Husby, Eivind Prytz Rynning, Per Gunnar Jevne, and Tore Ovstebo on an unassisted/unsupported trek to Pole from the Messner Start...they were dropped off on 1 November. As of 14 December they'd made it to 87.5°S, they reached Pole on the 26th SP time.
Howard Fairbank
a South African adventurer, planned to leave in late November for a solo trip to Pole from the Messner Start...he was airlifted to the starting point on 21 November. He originally planned to return to Hercules Inlet with Richard Weber's group, using kites. As of 1 December he was at 84°14'S and having to repair breaking ski poles...he reached Pole on 28 December and then opted not to return north with Weber.
Polar Vision
was a 3-man British-American team led by Alan Lock...whose vision has deteriorated badly from macular dystrophy, a disease that can gradually lead to total blindness. Still, he's put together the rest of what was originally a 5-man team--Richard Smith and Andrew Jensen, for a 2011-12 trip to Pole. Guided by Hannah McKeand, they will be following the 600-mile Messner route, with two resupplies. Alan's venture is featured in a 21 October New York Times article. They were flown to their starting point on 26 November and are making good progress, as of 2 December they were about 20% of the way, 439 miles to go. They reached Pole on 4 January.
Richard Weber
the experienced Canadian guide, led four folks on a 35-day expedition from the Messner Start on the Filchner Ice Shelf to Pole...Kiwi Michael Archer, Chris De Lapuente, American Kathy Braegger, and British/American Ruth Storm (USA/UK). They flew from Union Glacier to their starting point on 22 November, but on the 27th Kathy was very ill...and medevaced back to Punta Arenas. Kathy's (aborted) blog was at southpoleroundtrip.com. On 1 December they'd passed 83°S. Richard fell at some point in mid-December and severely injured his left wrist, right knee and calf. He was flown back to Union Glacier on the 23rd, thence to a hospital in PA where, fortunately, his injuries turned out to not be long term. Richard and Michael reached Pole on 30 December SP time, from there they planned to kite/ski back to Hercules Inlet...as of 3 January they were still waiting for favorable wind conditions. They left Pole a couple of days later and completed the trip to Hercules Inlet on the 17th.

Trips starting from Hercules Inlet/Union Glacier:
 
Cas and Jonesy
is Australians James Castrission and Justin Jones, they planned what they claimed would be the first unsupported round trip from the coast (Hercules Inlet) to Pole in 2011-12. Among other previous adventures, they kayaked across "the ditch" between Australia and NZ in 2007-08. They were on the first flight to Union Glacier on 29 October and started from Hercules Inlet on the 31st. After a slow start due to soft conditions, their pace has improved, although they've recently developed some pains and strains, and Cas was suffering from a groin skin infection. As of 2 December they'd reached about 83.4°S. they arrived at Pole on New Years Day, staying only a few hours before heading north, a race against time to get back to Hercules Inlet before the season ends. After struggling on short rations, they reached HI on 27 January (well, still Australia Day--the 26th in their time zone).
Mark George
an Australian financial advisor and Everest summiter, proposed a 2011-12 solo unassisted trip to Pole from Hercules Inlet, using a kite on the return trip. After the usual delays, he was finally dropped off at his starting point on 27 November, and he's making fair progress with loud music on his Ipod. On 2 December he was at almost 81°S. Here's his older/main web site. He reached Pole on 9 January...and contemplated continuing for a few days, but there were no suitable winds for kiting so he planned to fly back to UG.
Aleksander Gamme (Norwegian language site)
is yet another Norwegian hoping to make it to Pole from Hercules Inlet in time for the Amundsen centennial...only the first half of what he hopes to be the first solo unsupported round trip from the coast without using kites. He hopes to take advantage of the extended flight season to pull off what may be a 100-day trip. He was on the delayed first passenger flight to Union Glacier on 29 October and set off almost immediately. He reached Pole on the 26th and quickly turned back north. He reached Hercules Inlet on the 25th, although he waited until the 27th to join Cas and Jonesy for the final kilometer of the route.
Aborted! Steffen Dahl (Norwegian language site)
is yet another Norwegian who planned a solo unsupported/unassisted trip to Pole from Hercules Inlet. He was supposed to be on the second ANI/ALE flight to Union Glacier on 22 October, but as of 28 October he was still in PA. He finally reached his HE starting point on 30 October...but after slow going, on 11 November, at about 80°S, he opted to hitch a ride on an ALE vehicle that was heading to a Thiel Mountains fuel depot, where he was dropped off at 85°S on 16 November and set out again. Here is another link to his blogs from the ice. As of 28 November he was at 87°35'S, on 1 December he was near 88°S, but he had become ill, and radioed for pickup due to medical problems. The ALE aircraft that picked him up on 4 December continued to Pole, where Steffen stopped briefly...then he was flown back to Union Glacier.
South Pole 1911-2011 (Catalan language site)
is the English name of the trip by Albert Bosch and Carles Gel from Patriot Hills...they hoped to be the first Catalans to reach Pole. Albert has completed the Seven Summits and Carles has done some significant Arctic and Andes travel. They were on the first flight to Union Glacier arriving on 29 October and started from PH on the 31st. They were pinned down by bad weather for much of the first week before starting to make good progress, but Carles injured his foot and was flown back to Union Glacier and Punta Arenas...Albert continued alone. Here's Albert's home page with a blog in English...and a lavanguardia.com blog (Catalan) with video. Albert reached Pole on 5 January.
Polarexplorers...
is guiding a resupplied trip from Hercules Inlet to Pole starting in late November. Guides are Lisa and Oskar Strom...participants include Bryony Balen, Ronny Diz, Dennis Woods, and Bob Douglass. They started from Hercules Inlet on 26 November...on 3 December they were at about 81°S...and on 8 January they reached their final resupply point at 87.24°S. On the 9th, Dennis was flown back to Union Glacier after struggling with a respiratory/altitude problem. Oskar went with him. The rest of the team made it to Pole on 21 January. Here's the Polarexplorers main site.
North South Solo
is another "North Pole/South Pole" attempt by Coventry, UK explorer and ex-fireman Mark Wood, who has extensive Arctic experience. He first did a 55-day unsupported trip to Pole in 2011-12 from Hercules Inlet, and then had planned to follow that venture almost immediately with a trip from the Ward Hunt Island to the North Pole. He prepared by training in the Arctic. He was flown to Union Glacier on 20 November and started from Hercules Inlet on the 22nd. As of 8 January he was at 89.5°S, he made it to Pole on the 10th. Plans for the Arctic portion of his venture changed several times due to deteriorated ice conditions and the high cost of rescue bonds...he considered traveling south from the North Pole to Cape Discovery in Nunavut, and finally decided to do a "last degree" from 89ºN-164ºE and then continue on to the Russian annual ice station Barneo. He started his trip on 6 April from 89ºN-164ºE and reached the North Pole on 11 April where he encountered a wedding in progress (Børge Ousland and bride Helge Drange, along with a minister, candles and champagne, and about 30 guests, flown in by helicopter--this was reportedly the first wedding held at the North Pole) (BBC News article). He then pushed on to Barneo (89.4ºN-35ºE) arriving there on the 13th.

The motorized trips (Arctic Trucks):
 
The Double Traverse of Antarctica (updated blog page)
was a rather unusual event sponsored by EWR in conjunction with their 2011-12 Race to the South Pole, and supported by Arctic Trucks (the EWR web site has totally disappeared). In mid-November four of their Toyota vehicles traveled to Pole from Novo; three continued on to McMurdo via the SP Traverse route (originally they'd planned on retracing Scott's 1911-12 route via the Beardmore Glacier!) They then returned to Pole in time to assist in support of the Race...after the race everyone headed north back to Novo, except that two of the vehicles traveled to SANAE (the permanent South African station) instead. The venture left Novo just after midnight on 23 November SP time...they stopped to prepare two skiways near the start point of the race, and at the beginning of December they'd stopped at 88°S to build a field camp...first to be occupied by a THINK Global School group...a private non-profit high school that travels globally. The high school students arrived on 3 December and skied to Pole for the centenary.
The Kazakh Geographic Society
planned to send a team to Pole from Novo in three of those Arctic trucks Toyota vehicles. Last year two of the group made a test run to Pole in 108 hours, setting a new speed record for the trip. While they'll be doing science along the way, they also have timed their schedule so they'll be at Pole in mid-December for the Amundsen centenary. They planned to start the first week in December. Expedition leader Nurlan Abduov said "...we are planning to present a special program about Kazakhstan to about two thousand guests, who are expected to be at the South Pole at that time. So, we are taking souvenirs and books there and will maybe even try to cook some special dishes." 2000 people? Hmmm. Here's a news article, from the Telegraph. The group arrived at Pole on the morning of the 15th (SP/NZ time).
The Thomson Reuters Eikon Expedition
is a 3-person 2011-12 road trip led by experienced guide Jason De Carteret, no stranger to the ice since He's been to Pole 4 times. Second is Kieron Bradley, an engineer with Lotus Engineering, and the third team member was selected from an outside competition--39-year-old Jason Thomas, an advertising copywriter living in downtown Toronto. Based from Union Glacier, the group is traveling in the "Thompson Reuters Eikon Polar Vehicle," a Toyota Hilux pickup heavily modified by Arctic Trucks. The vehicle has a 4L 320 bhp V6 biofuel engine, 44" wheels, supplemental solar and wind power equipment, and a 570-gallon fuel tank. The described route starts from Patriot Hills; the original plan was to get to Pole before the Amundsen centenary and beat the 2-day, 21 hour, 21 minute record set by the Ice Challenger vehicles in December 2005--a venture also led by Jason De Carteret. They set out officially at 0230 Tuesday 13 December SP time but opted to return to PH a few hours later because of extremely poor visibility conditions. And, on the way back they hit a small bump and the front wishbone snapped. So they hauled the vehicle back to UG for repairs, and Jason Thomas opted to head back home to Toronto rather than participate in the second attempt. Here's the Arctic Trucks coverage, and this is an earlier web site about the expedition. Jason and Kieron set out from the PH starting point at 0942 Monday SP time, and after an uneventful trip they arrived at Pole to kiss the silver globe at 0136 Wednesday 21 December...a new record of 39 hours 54 minutes, smashing the old record of 2 days 21 hours 21 minutes!

Other longer and unique routes:
 
Acciona Antártica
are four men from Spain: Ramón Larramendi, with Javier Selva, and Ignacio Oficialdegui, led by Juan Pablo Albar. They did a 1900-mile crossing from Novo to Union Glacier via Pole using a five-runner "Polar Catamaran" sled--a concept that was successfully tested in the Spanish Transantarctic Expedition (Tierras Polares) of 2005-06. The sled equipped with tents and solar panels will be pulled by kites of up to 80m2...they were hoping that they would find the right winds! As of 7 December they were in Cape Town awaiting the flight to Novo; they set out on 8 December and reached Pole on 2 January after a 190-mile non-stop run. Here's the full Acciona Antartica site, as well as a Greenland Windsled page about the trip.
Aborted! Aloha Antarctica
called itself a "South Pole Skiing Expedition and Transantarctic Crossing"--Austin Wirth from Germany, and Dieter Staudinger from Austria (currently living near Toronto) planned a ski/kite venture starting in November 2011. They flew to Novo and then started from near SANAE on 10 November to on the way to Pole on what they said was the first expedition to use this route. They then planned return north to Hercules Inlet, covering a total distance of about 2200 miles, but they turned around after three days of very difficult ground travel conditions. With a sudden aircraft of advantage available, they, flew back to Novo from SANAE, got back to Cape Town on 3 December, and then returned home to Germany. The two men have traveled and trained extensively in the Arctic, and they first tried this South Pole trip in 2008-09 starting from Neumayer, but they ran out of kiting wind and aborted the trip when they didn't have enough supplies to reach their depot. Here is a 12 October news article from thespec.com (Ontario) about the expedition, with video and audio interview links.
The Basque Team (Spanish language site)
are Juan Vallejo, Mikel Zabalza, and Alberto Iñurrategi; they were on a long ski trip from Novo to Pole with a return to Union Glacier. On 16 November they were dropped off for their start 6 miles from Novo. A few days later they had to recover one of their sleds from a deep crevasse. They reached Pole on 29 December, after traveling the last 80 miles in 3 hours, and they lost their "unsupplied" status by having dinner at the tourist camp. They continued on to HI arriving on the 10th, well ahead of the 21 January deadline for completion of their venture.
Antarctic ICE
was an unusual 6000km 2011-12 kite exploration of East Antarctica by Belgians Dixie Dansercoer (age 48) and Sam Deltour (age 25). Both have done extensive long-distance polar travel, and Dixie has traveled to Pole before. Using a variety of large kites, their trip was to start and end at Novo...from there they were to head counterclockwise to Pole and thence across some of the "inaccessible" sector toward the coast. They then will circle back west, following the prevailing winds, and head back to Novo across the lightly traveled northern edge of the plateau. As of 2 November they were in Cape Town awaiting the flight to Novo (news24 report). They actually reached Novo a few days later and were flown to their starting point on 7 November. But ten days after their start, trapped in a "labyrinth of sastrugi," they were picked up and flown back to Novo for a second start (16 November Reuters article). They waited out a storm and plotted their plans...and on 23 November they were flown out to a new starting point, from which they have been making much better progress with their large kites. They reached Pole on 22 December SP time, and left for on the evening of the 23rd. By 9 January they were near 78°S, roughly 2/3 of the way back to Novo. They reached their final position, 69º33'24"S, 93º36'20"E, on 2 February, having covered more than 5013 km. They were picked up and flown to Progress Station on 9 February, and when weather improved they returned to Novo a week later. They left their gear behind in anticipation of a future return.
Felicity Aston
of the UK, who led the December 2009-10 8-woman Kapersky Lab Commonwealth Antarctic Expedition to Pole, did a crossing, which she called the 2011-12 Kaspersky ONE Transantarctic Expedition. On 25 November she was flown from Union Glacier to her starting point at the base of the Leverett Glacier from where she was heading to Pole--the first skier to use the USAP traverse route. On 2 December she'd reached the top of the Leverett Glacier, and by 10 December she was at 87.5°S. Felicity arrived at Pole at about 0900 22 December SP time. At Pole she received a resupply and continued to Hercules Inlet, which she reached on 24 January, claiming a record of the first woman to ski alone across Antarctica. The 33-year-old has worked for BAS for several years, traveled in the Arctic, done the Marathon Des Sables, and participated in other similar ventures. This version of her main web site has a bit more information about Felicity's background.
Pole to Pole Run
is exactly that...a multistage "run" from one Pole to the other organized by veteran Australian extreme distance runner (and ex-MP) Pat Farmer. The polar portions are being led by Eric Phillips of IceTrek fame. Their departure from the North Pole was scheduled for 2 April, but that was delayed a few days due to delays with the establishment of the annual Camp Barneo. From the North Pole, Greg's route headed to Canada and south through the Americas to Ushuaia, from where Pat was to fly to the ice on 29 December. The Antarctic portion of the trip will be a 4-man team, also including adventure filmmakers Jose Naranjo and Clark Carter. They are starting from the Ronne ice shelf and be resupplied from caches. The team posted dispatches from the Arctic portion of the trip on the ExpeNews web site. At the end of October Pat was around Lima, Peru, and at the beginning of December he was closing in on PA. It looks like he flew south to Union Glacier about 31 January. He then headed for Pole via Hercules Inlet and Patriot Hills. And since he was running and not carrying/pulling anything, he was supported by a crew in one of those ALE Ford vans. Amazing to see videos of him running...not carrying anything, hundreds of miles away from a warm hut. He was held up a bit by mechanical problems with the van, but he reached Pole on 19 January.
Pole2Pole
was another Pole-to-Pole venture.. Led by Johan Ernst Nilson of Sweden, accompanied by Harald Kippenes in the polar portions and Carl Robert Björkander on the the temperate leg. Johan and Harald left the North Pole around 8 April...their route originally included a crossing of Greenland, but they adjusted their route to cross more of Canada instead. As of the end of October the team was bicycling through Panama...a ways to go yet. At the end of November he was in central Ecuador...and opted to fly south to Antarctica from there...he said he'd return to finish the South America portion of his route afterward. He was flown to Novo, from where he set out for Pole on 2 December. As of 8 January he reported knee problems and a broken rib...and another week to go to reach Pole. Which he finally reached on the 20th.
Sebastian Copeland and Eric McNair-Landry
trained in Greenland in 2010 for what is to be an unusual 2011-12 unassisted kite-supported venture which they call the Antarctic Legacy Crossing. First, leaving in early November, they started directly from Novo on 6 November and headed first to the Pole of Inaccessibility (82°06'S 54°58'E)...to Pole...and then on to Union Glacier and Hercules Inlet. They had to head back north and replace a broken ski a few days after starting. As of 1 December they were at 76°S, still heading for the POI but a bit behind schedule. They reached the POI and visited the bust of Lenin on 28 December SP time, then headed for Pole. As of 7 January they'd had some good traveling days and were 50 miles from Pole as the skua flies, but Sebastian's sled had come open and he lost his sleeping bag and other gear. They reached Pole the next day, picked up some replacement gear, and headed for HI on the 12th. They finished the trip on the 24th after a long day of kiting about 230 km.

Shorter ventures and "last degree" trips:
 
Helen Skelton
an adventurer as well as a moderator of popular BBC children's show Blue Peter, went to Pole on an interesting 500-mile ski/kite/bike trip. Her bicycle was designed with assistance from Doug Stoup, who previously experimented with his own two-wheeler around Patriot Hills while contemplating a ride to Pole (BBC News article about the bicycle design). The small-tired (!) bike, which weighs 40 pounds, is towing a 180 lb sled...I'm not sure how all this was configured when she's kiting. She's accompanied by Niklas Norman, a Norwegian guide, who has a similar bicycle, as well as a media crew. Their trip was based from Novo...they flew there on 24 December, and were flown to their starting point at 83°S on 3 January. Their course and track paralleled the South Pole race with support from the same Arctic Trucks crew. As of 9 January they were nearing 86°S...and they reached Pole on the 22nd.
The Push
is an unusual venture originally planned by two athletes, California and Lake Tahoe natives John Davis and Grant Korgan, who are partially paralyzed. They planned a "last 100 mile" trip to Pole using custom-made Sit Skis; here's a September 2011 ESPN article about their expedition and the development of the unique skis that they will use. John had to drop out because of a training accident in Argentina; Grant is being guided by experienced Pole traveler/guide Doug Stoup and fellow Arctic/Antarctic guide Tal Fletcher, who is making his first trip to Pole; there will also be a 4-man film crew. The first week in December they were training in Fairbanks (10 December Fairbanks Daily News-Miner feature). They were flown from Union Glacier to their starting point on 7 January...and reached Pole on the 18th. For the final bit of the journey, Grant got up on regular skis and was supported by is companions as they reached the Pole...where Grant was met by his wife Shawna, who had flown in for the occasion as a surprise.
Børge Ousland 
with Bengt Egil Romo guided about 10 people on a last degree trip scheduled to arrive at Pole for the centennial of Amundsen's arrival. This the "Jubilee Last Degree" portion of the Jubilee expedition...the folks had gathered in PA on 1 December before flying to Union Glacier. They were dropped off at their starting point on 6 December, and reached Pole on the morning of the 14th just in time for the ceremonies.
The Humpty Dumpty Foundation
of Australia is being supported by a last degree venture guided by Australian mountaineer Damien Gildea, leading Kim Loane, Grant Bambach, Cath Murray, and Rob Clarke. The trek is raising money to assist sick children. They left Sydney for PA on 1 January, were flown to Union Glacier on the 6th, and were then flown to their start point at 89°S on 9 January.
One Call Wintercamp (Norwegian language site)
is a Norwegian group of 3 women and 3 men who planned to complete a kiting journey from 88°S 30°W in time to celebrate the Amundsen centennial on 14 December. They were selected by the mobile phone company after a competition involving more than 4000 applicants. The team was flown from Union Glacier to their starting point on 30 November. But they completed only about half of the planned distance before they ran short of wind and supplies, so they were flown to Pole on 12 December in time for the ceremony on the 14th, they then were flown back to Union Glacier the next day.
David Hempleman-Adams
led nine others on a 97-nautical-mile trip to Pole from the southernmost point reached by Shackleton in January 1909. Based out of Union Glacier, the group included his 16-year-old daughter Amelia (her web site/blog), Julian Evans, and Hazel Richards. They left the UK on 18 November, and were flown from Union Glacier to their starting point on 27 November (Huffington Post article), and reached Pole early Saturday morning 10 December...and didn't stay around for the festivities...they were headed back to Union Glacier and PA that same day.
Neal Laughton
the British adventurer and successful entrepreneur, is leading a group on a 100-mile trip to Pole in January, timed to coincide with the Scott centenary. Members of his group include James Balfour and Jon Beswick. They reached Pole on 17 January, in time for a commemorative cricket match (BBC article) in which the Brits beat the science team.
Other last degree expeditions
included one sponsored by ANI/ALE guided by Eric Larsen, a several trips run by Polarexplorers, one of which includes Wendy Booker, and a trip from Adventure Consultants.
Eric Phillips
According to his web site...before he guides Pat Farmer's trip to Pole, escorted a group of 11 Chinese to Pole--they were to fly from Novo to the base camp 14 miles from Pole, and travel to the station from there.

What didn't happen at least in 2011-12...announced but with no updates unless noted:
 
Alastair Humphreys
from England had previously announced a round-trip venture to Pole along with fellow Brit Ben Saunders. This was currently planned for 2011-12, but was recently rescheduled Scott2012, for the 2012-13 season. Ben attempted the North Pole in 2010 but had to give up early when one of his fuel containers broke and contaminated most of his food.
the British Antarctic Expedition 2011
was a 5-person team consisting of Duncan Cameron, along with Anna Wakefield, Claire Marritt, Alex Toseland and Carl Alvey. Goals--Anna and Claire would be the first British women to cross the continent, Claire would be the youngest person, and Alex the first epilepsy sufferer. Oh, Duncan and Claire planned to get married at Pole (not exactly a "first") They plan another interesting route--a kite-assisted unsupported trip starting at the base of the Axel Heiberg Glacier, following Amundsen's route to Pole, and then proceeding to Hercules Inlet. This was announced for the 2011-12 season, but there have been no recent web site updates.
Cancelled! polarice
is a 4-man British team led by Mike Dann, along with Tim Tottenham, Simon Edmundson and Paddy Scott. They had been training in Greenland for what they called "the longest unsupported transantarctic journey ever undertaken"--a kite-assisted trip starting at Novo and proceeding to the Pole of Inaccessibility, the South Pole, and a finish on the Bellingshausen Sea, originally scheduled for 2010-11 but now put off indefinitely. Here's their blog.
Cancelled! 2012 Inspire
was a project including 3 British athletes--Olympian Derek Redmond, Paralympian Marc Woods and Special Olympics athlete Declan Kerry...along with Rosie Stancer, great niece of the late Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, with manager/guide Tim Moss. They planned to ski to Pole unsupported starting in mid-December but had to cancel due to lack of funding. 51-year-old Stacey now proposes a 1913 solo trip to the North Pole (Telegraph article). Marc ended up as a participant in the Race to the South Pole.
Nabil al Busaidi
–an Omani adventurer who has already summited Vinson, walked to the north magnetic pole and rowed across the Atlantic, wants to be the first Arab to walk to Pole, starting in mid-November 2011. Not much on his web site or blog, although this was announced in a 2 October article in the Oman Observer.
Antarctic Challenge 2009-2012
is an interesting planned centenary venture, where 5 teams of 5 (including experienced guides and young people) will start at 84°S from 5 points (roughly grid north, east, southeast, south and west) and travel 500 miles to Pole. Among other things, the group is commemorating the late Norman Vaughan, a member of Byrd's first expedition in 1928-30. Perhaps the best known of the ten leaders is Sarah McNair-Landry...but note that the website news for the venture, which was originally titled "Antarctic Challenge 2009-2010, has not been updated since June 2010.

Yet another vessel in McMurdo Sound...Jarle Andhøy's yacht Nilaya was spotted offshore near Scott Base on the 21st. On Saturday 24 February, Andhøy told a Norwegian paper that their Antarctic venture was at an end, and that they were heading for South America (updates). There was no further news until mid-March.

whatever floats your boatThe Green Wave arrived at McMurdo around noon on Valentines Day. It originally tied up at the relocated ice pier, and the pontoon causeway was constructed on the outboard side (left, webcam slide). The assembled causeway was then moved to the offload site...and then the ship moved as well. You could watch the progress on the McMurdo webcams. The backload started on the 23rd...two days later the causeway was disassembled and picked up, and the Green Wave had headed north. Check out the slides; (full coverage of the 2011-12 shipping season)...including seven pages of time lapse photos!

At Pole...15 February...and the last 2 flights. Winter has begun for the 50 souls left behind. Here's the documentation from the Antarctic Sun with photos from Sven Lidstrom.

And at McMurdo...having a blast at McMurdoover this past weekend the ice pier was blasted loose from the shore (right) and moved closer to Hut Point to make way for the pontoon causeway setup. On the 11th the Nathaniel B. Palmer had been docked at the ice pier.

Jarle Andhøy's venture crossed 60ºS into the Antarctic. He's been off the coast of Victoria Land, and planned to head to Franklin Island before trying to get through the ice to McMurdo Sound. The Kiwi workman on board, a Maori activist, actually stowed away...and there are other strange stories about Jarle from Norway.

this is only a drill9 February...boring news from Vostok...the lake drilling has been completed (6 February SP time)! At left is the drillers' hero shot. There is lots of news out there, but this is my translation of the official press release. Other recommended news links...this report from RiaNovosti which includes an excellent animated graphic of the drilling process; two articles from the Russian commercial news service RT..."We raised 40 liters of water" which includes some of the technical details, and this one which features 2 videos with file footage of the drilling operation. Here is the New York Times coverage...and they also have this blog which addresses the Nazi conspiracy theory. Where is Art Bell when we need him? When the researchers get home, maybe they'll publish some papers and we'll find out the rest of the story. Meanwhile, this NOAA site depicts a 2001 aerial photo of Vostok, I don't think the place has changed that much since then.

Lockheed (remember the contract?)...I've updated that page about the contract rebid/transition, including the latest in the fast-changing set of links to the hiring information. Briefly, Lockheed and their subcontractors are focusing on employment arrangements for the current winterovers and incumbent full-timers in Denver... along with all of the other administrivia that goes with the transition. The CH2M Hill protest did not seem to have any impact on the contract turnover process.

Shipping update...the tanker (photo below left) finished offloading about 6.3 million gallons of fuel, and undocked from the ice pier on 2 February...the too-thin ice pier will now be moved out of the way to Hut Point to make way for the Green Wave. It reached Lyttelton on 5 February. Because of the weight of the pontoon causeway on board, some of the other containers were offloaded there and are being flown down. The vessel headed south on the 7th. The offload, plus setting up/taking down the causeway, will take about 11 days...the extra time for the ship offload plus the added flights will stretch the McM closing into early March. Pole reportedly received all of its needed supplies.

NPXBack in the IGY before there were Pole markers, there already was a certain distinctive abbreviation for the station (right). So what does NPX stand for?

photo from Carlos Pobes

2 February 2012, the Pole tourist season was over. The last two teams in the Extreme World Races Race to the South Pole arrived on the 28th. After a brief tour of the station, the remaining racers were quickly flown back to Novo, and the Arctic Trucks team packed up their camp a few miles away, and headed for Novo--they should be back by the fifth. The visitors center complex was dismantled the last week in January, and the deserted tourist camp site has also been left to the winterover Polies (left). The only other NGO travelers still moving on the continent are Dixie Dansercoer and Sam Deltour, who have now kited over 3000 miles on a looping track from Novo via Pole and Dome C...setting a new long-distance Antarctic travel record. They were still perhaps 1800 miles from Novo...will they make it back before the end of the season or will they need to get picked up?

tank you very muchThe Russian icebreaker Vladimir Ignatyuk arrived at McM the last week in January, here's video of it at work, from the I drive. And after that bit of work, the tanker Maersk Peary showed up on the 27th...(left, a 28 January photo by Steven Royce/Antarctic Photo Library). As for the cargo vessel Green Wave, it left Port Hueneme on 10 January, but it had a few mechanical problems. It was in Lyttelton in the beginning of February. Meanwhile, a crew of as many as 40 members of a US Army causeway battalion arrived to deal with the pontoons that will be used in lieu of the ice pier.

News from NZ...Jarle Andhøy and Samuel Massie, the surviving members of last season's tragic Berserk Pole attempt, have come up with a yacht and crew in Auckland and are heading for the Ross Sea...with a Maori worker who was working below when they cast off. and the NZ authorities were looking for them. They announced plans to head for Pole using the quad bikes they left behind at McM last year, or perhaps they're just going to pick up their gear at Scott Base (the latest news).

fat tire special25 January...the last few weeks of summer...the tourist season is almost over. Although the ALE camp at Union Glacier is closing this week, several teams from the Extreme World Races (EWR) event (supported out of Novo by the Arctic Trucks team) were still en route hoping to reach the station by the last week in January. Other recent visitors official and otherwise included Michel Rocard, the 1988-91 prime minister of France, as well as British TV star Helen Skelton (right; EWR/Arctic Trucks photo). Helen's polar venture has created an international media frenzy and at least one dubious "world record" claim (ExplorersWeb commentary). Elsewhere around the station, various science projects were finishing their summer work, efforts were continuing to get rodwell#3 operating, with assistance from John Rand, and the team from Lockheed-Martin arrived to begin the contract transition process. And there has been some testing of the new Skynet-4c satellite link.

100 years on100 years ago...5 Englishmen showed up at Pole on foot. No warm visitor center, no elevated station, no aircraft to take them back to London...nothing... but a tent left by Amundsen's party which had preceded them by a month. So...the leader Robert Falcon Scott's comment on reaching his goal was, "Great God! This is an awful place and terrible enough for us to have laboured to it without the reward of priority." Gee, what would you say under such circumstances? Perhaps words that I'd rather not put on this web site. Well, on 17 January 2012 things were a bit different, there were perhaps about 70 NGO visitors, and there was a ceremony to mark the occasion. gyroscopeOne of the speakers was area manager Bill Coughran (left), another was Henry Worsley, a member of the Royal British Legion and a relative of Frank Worsley, the captain of the Endurance on Shackleton's 1914-16 trans-Antarctic attempt. Worsley had arrived at Pole via Amundsen's route as part of the British Scott-Amundsen Centenary Race. The team following Scott's route did make it to Pole before midnight on the 17th. Henry also took Scott's route to Pole a few years ago (more photos and information about the ceremony). Meanwhile, there also was a commemorative dinner at Scott Base, one of the attendees was Falcon Scott, Robert's grandson, who has been working with the Antarctic Heritage Trust on the restoration of the Terra Nova hut at Cape Evans.

Yes...1 January did bring the unveiling of the latest and great Pole marker (right)...an amazing construction by Steele Diggles, the 2011 machinist.

Just when you thought it might not happen...it did. There is a contract protest. CH2M Hill was officially debriefed by NSF on 5 January and filed a protest the next day. This Engineering News-Record story is no longer available to nonsubscribers, but this article should be around longer. "CH2M HILL Antarctic Support, Inc. is disappointed with result of the NSF's selection process for the Antarctic Support Contract," the company said in a statement. Lockheed-Martin declined to comment on the protest. And NSF contracting officer Bart Bridwell noted, "I'm afraid Federal acquisition isn't for the faint of heart." According to the official court docket, a decision was due by 18 April.

fire at seaAt sea 375 miles north of McMurdo, the Korean 167-foot fishing vessel Jeong Woo, with 40 aboard, caught fire on 13 January (right), 3 crew members were killed in the fire...and various vessels including other fishing boats and the Nathaniel B. Palmer (NBP) rushed to the rescue. Seven of the most seriously injured crew members were taken aboard the NBP, which headed swiftly toward McM, reaching the ice edge around 0700 on the 13th. The injured personnel were taken to McM and put on a LC-130 which arrived in Christchurch that evening. The NBP had been on a science cruise from Punta Arenas, studying phytoplankton production in the Ross Sea, and had originally been scheduled to dock at McM on 6 February. Here is a 17 January Christchurch Press article. Earlier articles are from the New Zealand Herald and from Sail World...the photo at right was taken by NBP crew member Johnny Pierce. The final marine update from NZ appears to be from Maritime NZ dated 13 January; here is a 23 January Antarctic Sun article which describes the excellent response by the NBP and the rest of the USAP community.

busted in AntarcticaThe folks from Arctic Trucks have been doing some amazing long-distance off-road and on-road exploits...in late December they made a quick dash from Pole to the McMurdo area (blog), they'd previously said that they'd head to McM via the Beardmore Glacier, but they actually made both legs of the journey on the Leverett Glacier USAP traverse route. They met up with Felicity Aston along the way, reached the coast near McMurdo on 14 December, and dashed back to Pole on the 17th. Then, after making further preparation for the South Pole Race, they had some extra time and did a side trip to the Pole of Inaccessibility, which they documented with the photo at left at the bust of Lenin that the USSR erected in the 1958-59 season. It's on top of a building which has a guest book inside, but none of the recent visitors have dug their way in to sign it. After that, the Arctic Trucks folks have been supporting the 2011 Race to the South Pole, an event that started on 4 January. It's 500 miles consisting of 2 250-mile legs...originally there were 7 3-person teams...as of 12 January the racers were halfway to Pole...the Norwegian team was the first to finish, on 20 January. Oh, in addition to supporting/following the race, the Arctic Trucks team was also supporting that ski/kite/bike trip by UK TV celebrity Helen Skelton, her trip also happens to be 500 miles...she reached Pole on 22 January.

Finally, on 28 December US time, almost a week after the announcement on the ice, we have some official press releases about the contract award. Here's NSF's news release, and here is the Lockheed Martin announcement. Interested in jobs with LMCO or their subcontractors? Go here to the Antarctic Memories message board for hints and tips.

hot times at PoleIt turns out that 2011 brought not one but TWO major weather records! On Christmas Day the official high temperature was +9.9°F/-12.3°C...which significantly exceeded the old record of +7.5°F/-13.6°C set on 27 December 1978. Yes, you'll notice the scroll image at left is a bit off...some things don't change from 1977, when our thermometer was a bit off when we did the 300 club. Here is a blog post from the folks at the University of Wisconsin.

hi mom!Merry Christmas...Happy Holidays...and the best for the New Year! At right, the 2011 greeting card...created from the group photo with the Norwegian prime minister.

Friday the 23rd around noon SP time...the announcement was made that Lockheed Martin would be awarded the Antarctic support contract. Nothing on the news wires at the time, but the official announcement was made by Sam Feola to everyone in the program. Here's a copy of his email announcement to the community. And Lockheed Martin put up a special preliminary job announcement page for some positions in the program. That is gone, but the current The Lockheed Martin project web site is here.

Tuesday the 13th at Pole was "science day" for Prime Minister Stoltenberg...he toured ARO and the dark sector; at left, Bradford Benson explains to the PM what is going on with the SP telescope (info/credit). As for the 14th...the plans did change...he and his party went out a few miles from the station and skied back with some of the Norwegian skiers (the "South Pole 1911-2011" was still 50 miles away...and then a miracle happensJan-Gunnar Winther and Stein Aasheim from that expedition were picked up and flown to Pole on the 13th, and the rest of the team breathlessly arrived the next day. The big ceremony and video presentation did happen...the major event and ice sculpture unveiling happened at 1600 on the 14th...and filmed to be broadcast later in Norway. It featured a solo performance of the Norwegian national anthem by Zondra Skertich, on flute. Here's the official video! My coverage starts here, and Peter Rejcek was on site for the occasion, check out his excellent Antarctic Sun article! Later, there was a private dinner for some of the senior DV's, and a reception in the gym which turned into a party with live music. There was another bit of a ceremony early in the morning of the 15th...the folks figured that Amundsen had arrived around 0430 on the 15th SP time. And then, despite low visibility...the LC-130 landed on the third attempt...and the PM and his entourage departed. The tourist camp was still full, but since then many folks have departed...while others are en route.

Monday 12 December US time...the Norwegian press is not the only media covering the events. The New York Times published this feature article which describes not only the Scott-Amundsen "race" but also the past and future science objectives on the continent. And on the editorial page, there is also a great opinion piece about Amundsen's venture.

I forgot my skis, can I borrow a pair?Monday 12 December...Jens Stoltenberg, the Prime Minister of Norway, with entourage, arrived at Pole in time for lunch (!) (right, more info/credits) They stayed for about 3 days...and Jens briefly donned a pair of skis and tweeted "Skiing at the South Pole..." (!) The visit is a record...while heads of state have visited before, none have ever stayed overnight. The group included a state secretary, Hans Kristian Amundsen (!). On Wednesday the Prime Minister gave a speech, which was televised on both of Norway's TV networks. There also was live music from the Ceremonial Pole and participation by the Crown Prince Haakon, from Tromsø, Norway. Here are two news articles from Norway: an article in Norwegian from dagbadet.no with video in English and an article in English from theforeigner.no. Stay tuned...

keep right and don't feed the bearsTourist time has begun...the Norwegian press entourage has shown up to prepare for the visit of the prime minister. He of course would arrive on an American LC-130, but meanwhile the official Norwegian centenary traverse was also on track to arrive on 14 December, as of the 10th they were at 88°33'S, only 100 statute miles/161 km away. Meanwhile, the first skier teams arrived...and the tourist tent city was growing fast as folks flew in from UG and Novo. Three of the Arctic Trucks vehicles also showed up, led by Extreme World Races (EWR) CEO Tony Martin, reached Pole (or more exactly, the ALCI camp/fuel depot a few miles away) on 6 December...thank you for flyingthey were doing preparation for the EWR and leading some high school student skiers. They all arrived at Pole the next day...the skiers were flown out, and the EWR vehicles are soon to be off for McMurdo via the Beardmore glacier. Other tourists are starting to arrive by air (right, more info). The building complex in the background is the visitor center, and the square booth was used for electronics for the ceremonies on Amundsen's centenary day.

an august bodyElsewhere on the continent...the Antarctic Ice Marathon was held at Union Glacier on 7 December. And some rumor control...the Blue Ribbon panel (right) led by Norm Augustine (more information and photo caption) is now in McMurdo...on Sunday 4 December 2011 they held an open discussion. Before the main presentation, Dr. Karl Erb said that that an announcement about the contract rebid would be made within the next two weeks. Yes, the team visited Pole as well.

Still more shipping news...it seems that after all that work on the new McM ice pier, it won't work. Too much warm weather and bad weather has prevented its proper completion; it is too thin to support the cargo ship offload. So...the engineers spent some time figuring out what to do...it will be towed out of the way, and pontoons will be used for cargo offload. Where will the pontoons come from and how will they get there? One plan is for the U.S. Army to deploy a modular causeway system (pontoons) with a team of about 40 aboard the cargo ship Green Wave (note, this is NOT the same Green Wave that has visited McM in the past, but a newly reflagged vessel (the rest of the story about the cargo ship contract). Another plan...the responsible agency (the U.S. Navy Military Sealift Command) is looking for a separate breakbulk or LO/LO ("lift on/lift off") ice class vessel--one with cranes that can carry and offload 27 of the 40' causeway sections into the harbor. On 1 December they issued a request for information looking for what's out there. Like yesterday. Hmmm. Remember how easy it was to charter the icebreaker? Here's the 2 December Antarctic Sun article about the pier.

Amundsen didn't have anything like this waiting for himPreparations are continuing for all of the official and unofficial summer visitors expected around mid-December, including the prime minister of Norway (Antarctic Sun coverage). At left, carpenters are busy erecting the visitor center complex, which reportedly will use some of the plentiful midsummer solar energy (photo from Ethan Good). Many of the folks are underway, some are getting close...I keep updating my expedition status list here accordingly. Otherwise...some science construction...preparation for retrograde/storage of the IceCube drilling equipment...rather a strange summer without all of those drillers and other IceCubers filling up the B1 lounge. Some of the hot water drilling equipment is being sent back to McM for future use by the WISSARD (Whillans Ice Stream Subglacial Access Research Drilling) project...and the

Antarctican SocietyOne of many events held in December 2011 to mark the centenary of folks getting to Pole was...a presentation jointly sponsored by the Explorers Club Washington (DC) Group, the Antarctican Society, and the Society of Woman Geographers, on Saturday 3 December at the Cosmos Club. I had great fun going, wearing black tie and a borrowed miniature Antarctic Service Medal (hero shot), hearing a fine talk by Jerry Marty, and meeting some of the other Antarcticans. And I also got to overnight with Antarctic friends. Okay...if you're unfamiliar with the Antarctican Society (more info) you should know that this isn't the only event in which they're involved with the Explorers Club...there was a much bigger event scheduled for 2-4 May 2012 in New York City, the 75th anniversary meeting of the American Polar Society, but it was postponed until 2013. You have even more advance notice for this one.

1 December was the day set aside to mark the signing of an important document. No, NOT the contract, but the Antarctic Treaty...which was signed on 1 December 1959. So today is Antarctica Day. Polie Marie Mclane has more information and a collection of good links here.

As for the contract award, "mid November" has passed...as of 3 December the facts about the contract were...it had still not been awarded. The most recent rumor at the moment was that it might be announced on 1 December 2011. Well, that was a good rumor, it's time for another one (my updated coverage).

The new IceCube winterover team is on station...it includes Carlos Pobes, who, it turns out was the second Spanish person to winter (I was reminded that Francisco Navarro, the 1984 UCLA grantee, also was from Spain). Here's an October interview with Carlos from El Periódico de Aragón (in Spanish). Otherwise, Saturday dinner on 12 November was interrupted by a glycol leak in the power plant...fumes and lots of glycol to mop up, but no power outage...still a significant and successful test for the brand new 2011-12 emergency response teams.

truckin'In November 2011, Arctic Trucks received official recognition from the Guiness Book of World Records for last season's trip from Novo to Pole...1434 miles in 108 hours (photo at left). Remember, 25 years ago ANI first set up an air operation in the Antarctic...now Arctic Trucks is rapidly becoming a significant player in ground operations. In 2011-12 they had at least a dozen of their vehicles on the ice and supported several major national and NGO ventures (their 2011-12 Antarctic venture page antarcticachallenge.com has disappeared). Meanwhile, the first teams traveling out of Novo are also heading south, although the Belgian long-distance kiting expedition (Dixie Dansercoer and Sam Deltourran) ran into unnavigable conditions and were being flown back to Novo to pick another route (a Reuters article and their expedition web site). Meanwhile the Norwegian Polar Institute team that has been following Amundsen's route from the Bay of Whales area is about 2 weeks behind Amundsen's pace, they may not make it to Pole in time for the centenary of his arrival (14 November Norway International Network article), or to meet up with the Norwegian Prime Minister Jens Stoltenberg, who presumably will arrive at Pole by LC-130.

A postscript on February's tragic Berserk expedition...Norwegian captain Jarle Andhøy, who was well on his way to Pole when the boat was lost, was fined NOK 25,000 ($4500) in early November. The official offense was: not notifying the Norwegian Polar Institute, not filing an environmental assessment, and lacking search-and-rescue insurance. Andhøy accepted the fine without comment, although it was announced on 9 November that he would participate with NRK television and produce a documentary about the venture (Vestbold Blad/Norwegian language page) (my coverage of the Berserk incident).

More shipping news...on 30 September Maersk Line, Limited (MLL) officially renamed the ice-class double-hull tanker Maersk Peary. The 591-foot, 38,200 DWT (deadweight tonnes) vessel, formerly the Jutul, was built in South Korea in 2004 and flagged in the Marshall Islands. She was officially reflagged into US registry on 19 September (press release from MLL and a (Tanker Operator article). She left Norfolk on 1 October, her next voyage will be to resupply McMurdo in January (earlier coverage on the Military Sealift Command (MSC) tanker contract).

Another aircraft update...after a 12-day weather delay, the first ANI/ALE Ilyushin-76 passenger flight from PA to Union Glacier finally arrived at 0745 Saturday morning (29 October) SP time, and some of the first NGO venturers are already out there in tents on the first leg of their trip to Pole. More flights were due to follow. Only about 6 weeks before the Amundsen centenary...hope the store will be well stocked!

After icebreaker issues and the normal early season weather flight delays to the ice and Pole, there was another brief travel snafu...on Saturday Qantas decided to immediately cancel all flights and lock out its employees (stuff.co.nz article and Sydney Morning Herald live updates). It was a complicated labor issue...and on Monday the Australian government sent everyone back to work during a cooling off period, so flights resumed Monday afternoon SP/NZ time. Remember that RPSC booked most travel from LAX to ChCh on Qantas, and there were lots of ice folks yet to head south.

fly me to the moon, er, PoleThe first Basler opening flight from McM was delayed again this past weekend...but it finally headed for Pole on Monday the 24th, and landed to drop off 16 fresh faces (right, photo from Jens Dreyer). At last, the summer season has begun! The first Basler was originally scheduled for the 17th but of course they didn't get to McM until the 17th. Here's a 22 October Antarctic Sun article about the first pass of the Baslers through Pole. Oh, the Tuesday and Wednesday Basler flights were cancelled due to weather...at McMurdo...then it looked like the pax for both of these might head to Pole on Thursday on an LC-130. Or a Basler. Not. Another weather delay. Friday...there was an afternoon Herc flight scheduled...after a wait of several hours it was cancelled due to mechanical problems. Saturday...YES. The Herc took off with 40 passengers...and they made it in time for lunch. Whew...now the winter is really over.

In October, NSF was still dithering with the support contract...there were not one but TWO more amendments on 18 and 19 October...we were up to amendment 18, folks. This time...just some error clarifications on the costs for chartering the research vessels...but to give the accountants some time to recrunch, the final submittal date has been pushed back to 25 October. Would the NSF bean counters still be able to announce the award per schedule by mid-November?

ReneeOn 27 August, the winter site manager, Renée-Nicole Douceur (right), suffered an apparent stroke. After she received medical attention, a medevac was discussed but not implemented. A month later, her niece raised that issue to the world media, so it was South Pole news out there. She WAS flown out on the first Basler transiting from Rothera to McMurdo... continued on to New Zealand the same day, and had an MRI and other exams in Christchurch before heading for Baltimore and further medical tests at Johns Hopkins. Here's the rest of the story.

Something I missed when it was announced...on 29 September 2011 the NSF support contract for ARCTIC operations was awarded to CH2M HILL, the incumbent contractor (Polar Field Services in Littleton, CO). It is worth $324 million for a 4-year base period beginning on 1 February 2012, with options for two additional 2-year extensions. The contracting process proceeded without hitches or delays...there was a presolicitation notice in October 2010, the original RFP was issued on 16 February 2011, and bids were due on 15 April. There were two bidders, the unsuccessful one was URS. The contract provides research support in a number of locations--45% in Alaska (mostly at the Toolik Field Station, which is on the Dalton Highway north of the Brooks Range), 32% in Greenland (mostly at Summit), with the remainder in Canada and Russia. The GSA contract details and award notice are here. It is worth noting that this award breaks a precedent for not awarding a new contract to the incumbent. There is also a precedent still out there that the Arctic and Antarctic support contracts have always been held by different contractors...yes, CH2M HILL was one of the three finalists for the Antarctic contract awarded in December 2011. Hmmm.

The icebreaker...on 5 October the NSF sole-source justification for the Murmansk Shipping contract was published on the GSA contracting site. A history of the procurement activity is provided...the result is that contract for use of the Vladimir Ignatyuk for an estimated $5.66 million this season, with two one-year option periods. Here's the 31 August press release from Murmansk Shipping (Google translation).

Another satellite! A system to access a retired British military satellite was to be implemented during the 2011-12 summer season. Links to the Skynet 4c, now in an orbit with a slight (and slowly increasing) inclination, were tested at Pole during the 2009-10 season by a visiting team from Intelsat and SPAWAR, with assistance from 2010 comms tech Shaun Meehan. This satellite, originally launched in 1990, will provide 1.5 Mbps IP link for (initially) 2 hours and 43 minutes a day, on a consistent daily schedule similar to GOES. The project requires some electronics and a small dish, which was installed inside the large radome with the GOES dish (Skynet and GOES are in opposite directions). That part of the system was completed this season...but it seemed that the satellite orbit had been adjusted, so that it was hidden behind MAPO. So...the dish will need to be relocated, perhaps next season. Here's earlier information: the original 2009 GSA Intelsat contract award announcement and a 2010 announcement from Intelsat.

The 2011 winter season was over...at least for McMurdo. The first two flights of the season arrived on 4 October, delayed for one day by weather. One was a C-17, the first of 63 C-17 flights scheduled for this season, with 113 passengers. Additionally, the Australian Airbus A319 also arrived from Christchurch with 59 passengers. As for Pole, it will be a few more days yet. The first of the Basler and Twin Otter transit flights from Rothera to McMurdo were expected to stop at Pole around the 13th, with the first Basler passenger flight from McM scheduled for the 17th. The LC-130's operated by the New York National Guard were to make their first appearance on 1 November. For travel to Pole at a more leisurely pace (!) there were to be TWO land traverses this year...sorry no passengers. There was excellent coverage on the end of winter in this 4 October Antarctic Sun article.

In case you missed it (well, I did), there were FOUR contract amendments posted in September 2011 on the GSA contract web site. Mostly they provided an opportunity for the number crunchers with KBR, CH2MHill, and Lockheed Martin to break out their #2 pencils and spreadsheets one more time, for another final submission due 30 September...for costs year by year all the way to March 2025. One of the data items in the amendments (they are now up to amendment #16!) was an updated list of USAP subcontracts and leases that are part of the contract. Everything from the Xerox machines and ATM...to the N B Palmer...to...the lease on the RPSC building in Centennial. Which is up on 30 April 2012. No one has negotiated an extension, although when I was last in the office in March 2010 I noted that there was a lot of vacant office space in the area, which I understand is still the case. Also...the schedule on the NSF contract site was adjusted on 2 September to indicate that the evaluations/negotiations would run to 30 September and the contract award would be in November. And the RPSC "Transition" page and FAQ was updated on 4 October to reflect a mid-November award schedule.

thar she blowsIt got a bit windy again. Not just a light breeze...it seems that the all-time wind speed record has been broken! According to Tim Markle in the met department, on 27 September "...the peak wind speed of 50kts/58mph broke the record for the all-time strongest wind speed at South Pole. The previous record of 48kts/55mph was set on August 24th, 1989." Ulp. There's an excellent Antarctic Sun report with more information from Tim on the weather records. Oh, at left is Robert Schwarz's photo of what MAPO looked like. Seems that a bit of digging may be in order.

The McMurdo main body opening was to happen soon...(Wednesday 28 September 2011 US time) the C-17 was at Hickam, scheduled to fly to Christchurch the next day...on schedule for the first flight to McM on the third.

Sunrise has happened...the official time of the equinox was 2105 on Friday 23 September 2011, but the weather was not doing much cooperating then. The official sunrise dinner was on Saturday the 24th, it featured an excellent gathering and big feast with meals to order. That day the weather cleared a bit and the sun was actually visible. But on Sunday the winds came up...around 0300 the wind velocity hit 45kts (52mph or 84 km/h)–a new record for the month of September which came close to the all-time wind speed record (48 kts/55 mph/88km/h) set on 24 August 1989. Earlier, on 16 September...5 days early...the sun had first been sighted....then it was calmer and cooler the temps were in the -90s (°F).

couched in drama

The first of six Winfly flights reached McM on schedule on 20 August...the day after the first sunrise of the spring (Antarctic Sun) article and a 25 August USAF press release. Weather backed up the later flights...they were supposed to run through 29 August, but they ran into the first week of September.

Media watch...it seems that HBO has teamed up with Sopranos actor James Gandolfini for a comedy drama series based on Big Dead Place...that iconic Antarctic book written by McMurdo denizen (and 2004 Pole winterover) Nicholas Johnson. Hmmmm. Here's the 1 September deadline.com news article. Oh, and on the bigger screen...14 October will see the release of The Thing, which is actually described as a prequel to that 1982 John Carpenter movie. It stars Mary Elizabeth Winstead. Here's the official site (warning, very high bandwidth required). Yes, there are flamethrowers. And dogs (?)

mind the stepYes, there was a small airdrop at Pole on Monday 29 August 2011 (left, the loads are ready to go). Here's more information, photos and the video link. Not as big a deal as some in the past, since the C-17s are in Christchurch for the ongoing winfly flights...but still the station had a fair amount of preparation and practice...burn barrels etc. The successful result--some medical supplies that were running short, spare parts, a bit of mail, and freshies, well, only a few oranges.

Thursday, 25 August 2011 (US time)...NSF officially announced that they had engaged a Russian icebreaker for the upcoming season! Yes...here's the press release; also a letter to participants was posted on the NSF Polar Programs web site. let's go break some iceThere is a one-year letter contract (with renewal options) with the Murmansk Shipping Company (source of the copyrighted photo at right), for the use of the Russian diesel-powered Vladimir Ignatyuk. This vessel was originally constructed as the Arctic Kalvik in Victoria, BC in 1983, and was sold by Gulf Canada to Murmansk Shipping in 2003. Briefly, it's 289 feet long, with a beam of 58 feet, draft of 27 feet, displacement of 4,234 tons, and a maximum speed of 16 knots (more stats and a schematic layout). Other coverage...a 26 August Antarctic Sun article...this 29 August AAAS/Science Insider article, and a 26 August Russian press release from Ria Novosti. A similar sister vessel, the Terry Fox,, also used by Gulf Canada, is now a Canadian Coast Guard icebreaker.

Well, 15 August WAS supposed to be the deadline for icebreaker announcements, but not all deadlines get met. Fortunately the talking and negotiating continued...a few days after the deadline, NSF OPP director Karl Erb was quoted that negotiations were underway with the owners of two foreign icebreakers. The 19 August issue of Science, published this news article "U.S. Icebreaking Woes Threaten McMurdo Resupply, Research Plans" (actually the title said it all, but to view more than the summary you needed to have a subscription or pay for access, sorry). He "hoped to tell the community in a couple of weeks that we have a resupply ship lined up..." according to the article. Meanwhile, here is what he said at the 28-29 July National Science Board meeting about this issue. (Below, more earlier icebreaker info and links).

Also at the meeting, Dr. Erb announced the current schedule for the Antarctic support contract award, "not later than mid November." Not much more room for schedule slippage. He also announced that tour companies had indicated that more than 300 people would be at Pole on 14 December, the centenary of Amundsen's arrival.

More shipping news...on 3 August the Military Sealift Command (MSC) awarded the contract for charter of the cargo vessel for the next few years...to Waterman Steamship Corporation...the Alabama-based division of multinational shipping firm International Shipholding Corporation (ISC). $10 million per year (fixed price !?) for a maximum of five years of resupply trips to McMurdo and Thule. Here's the updated link to the news item, this comes from MM&P. (The contract award announcement (is listed on this page, scroll down a bit). After the award, Waterman reflagged the Cyprus-flagged ice-rated cargo vessel Federal Patroller giving it a historical name...the Green Wave(!) Here are photos of the vessel from Google Images. On a historical note, ISC got its start in the shipping business in 1947 when the then-New Orleans-based company purchased its first vessel, a surplused WW2 Liberty Ship that they renamed Green Wave...honoring Tulane University. Note that this vessel never ventured to Antarctica and is NOT the same one that we are more familiar with. In 1984, the MS Woermann Mira was purchased by the Navy for the Military Sealift Command (MSC) and renamed...Green Wave, and it made its first appearance at McMurdo at the end of January 1985. So the 2012 vessel is at least the third one by this name, and the second one to visit the ice.

Science in the dark...here's a fresh Antarctic Sun article by research associate Marco Tortonese about some of the station winter science projects. Oh, Marco continues his outdoor skiing and running during the winter, he now has more than 2000 miles under his belt. Check out his blog!

they are coming for you

On the lighter side...the Antarctic 48 Hour Film Festival took place around the last weekend of July. Entries in the "48 hour" division had to be completely filmed and produced in that period...and they also had to include specific items–a saw, a T-shirt with a chocolate bar stuck to it, the sound of a dripping faucet, the character Popeye, and the dialogue: "….which I imbibed rapaciously." The Pole entry in the 48-hour division is "Popeye the Surgeon Man"...and the Open division entry was the two-part thriller "Attack of the Killer DOMs." And of course many other Antarctic stations have some excellent entries as well. Check out the lot!

under the ring

Update on the dome (you DO remember the dome, right?)...in Port Hueneme, the top ring has been successfully reassembled and hung in a designated spot in the brand new Seabee Museum (photo at right)! The task was completed by Lee Mattis (second from left), Jerry Marty (fourth) and John Perry (fifth) along with some active-duty and retired Seabee assistance. During the dome erection, Lee was the tech rep from TEMCOR, the dome fabricator, and John was the Navy engineer. Yes, of course I have more photos and links here.

Shipping news update...for several months there have been ongoing negotiations and discussions underway about the icebreaker for the 2011-12 resupply. Or, more exactly, the lack of an icebreaker. On 28 July NSF formally announced the situation to the science community: "...unless we can find and engage a suitable replacement by mid-August, we will have to implement contingency plans that would curtail activities in the near term...." What would be curtailed? Well, field camps and other activities requiring significant air support, among other things...and Pole could close as early as 5 February. The full announcement is in this "Dear Colleagues" letter from Karl Erb, director of the NSF Office of Polar Programs (the letter was posted on the usap.gov home page). It seems that the Oden isn't available this year. Why? Well, it seems that there had been domestic complaints in Sweden because ships had been caught in the Baltic Sea ice during the northern winter, while the Oden was at the other end of the world. recreational boating This story was picked up in July by Popular Mechanics. As for the US Coast Guard's two 1960-era icebreakers traditionally used in the Antarctic...the Polar Star is midway through a major 2-1/2 year refit, and the Polar Sea is about to be decommissioned. The lighter 11-year-old Healy began a major 7-month Arctic science cruise at the end of May. So there were are. Several items of interest...a 7 July op-ed by retired Coast Guard RADM Jeffrey M. Garrett which outlines the current American icebreaker status vs the rest of the world...focusing primarily on the Arctic...this 27 May Coast Guard press release which outlines what the Healy is doing...and a January 2011 Coast Guard audit of the "Polar Icebreaker Maintenance, Upgrade, and Acquisition Program" (or lack thereof). Remember that in 2004-05 when the big icebergs were causing problems, contingency plans were being made to curtail the season...and the Russian icebreaker Krasin was charter to assist the Polar Star. Oh by the way, in May NSF put out a contract proposal looking for an icebreaker...there are two items of interest here. First, obviously there wasn't a relevant response...and secondly, the RFP contains a map and a detailed history of the US Antarctic program icebreaker support from the IGY to date (MS Word document). By the way, the photo at left shows the Oden (foreground) with the NBP (Nathaniel B. Palmer) in McMurdo Sound in January 2011 (photo by Peter Rejcek in the USAP photo library).

More shipping news...on 1 July a MSC contract was awarded to Maersk Line, Limited (MLL) for charter of a modern US-flag ice-strengthened tanker to deliver fuel to McMurdo (and Thule) over the next few years (Maersk press release and some information about the company). This will replace the old MSC tankers that have been used up until the 2010-11 season; the T-5 tankers have been retired, partly due to old age (earlier MSC press release) and partly due to the new international regulations banning heavy fuel oil from Antarctic waters.

North of Antarctica, the Antarctic Treaty consultative meeting, otherwise known as ATCM XXXIV, was held in Buenos Aires in June 2011. So what happened? Apparently, not much that interested the news media...here's about the only recent article I found, from the Sydney Morning Herald. But I've been through the documents, and there are a few items which may be of interest to folks reading this. One...a report from the Norwegian Polar Institute that they'd considered (and rejected) several NGO expedition requests to use dogs as part of centenary ventures (!). There are two interesting reports about that berserk Berserk expedition, which I've covered here. Among other things, they're considering another venture to Pole and a winterover somewhere (!!). As for the centennial stuff, the US published their revised NGO guidelines and maps for the upcoming 2011-12 Pole tourist season. I've updated my map section to include all of the current guidelines and maps. And a note of historical interest, there was a submittal of a 2008 Texas A&M paper, "The historical development of McMurdo station, Antarctica, an environmental perspective." The meeting documents can be found from this ATS page; click on the link to ATCM XXXIV and then select "documents." My other treaty links are here.

Auroras? Huh? Here's a time lapse that Weeks Heist posted in late June...

sleeper seats!

A seriously ill contractor employee was successfuly medevaced from McMurdo to Christchurch. With only 18 hours notice, the Air Force C-17 arrived in ChCh from Lewis-McChord base in Washington State. Then with medical personnel aboard, the flight headed south to the Pegasus runway...and were on the ground for only about 40 minutes before heading north with the patient...who was turned over to medical care in ChCh at 2030 on 30 June. The flight had to deal with the usual winter darkness by using night vision goggles, but they also had to contend with volcanic ash from the Puyehue-Cordón Caulle volcano in southern Chile, the ash has been blowing across the Pacific Ocean since early June; the volcano is about 130km NNE of Puerto Montt. The Pegasus runway had been completely prepared for the flight in only 5 days! At right...the patient is being cared for aboard the aircraft. Here's the USAF press release with that and more photos. Folks at Pole did flight following for this mission.

Update...there are major science strategy reports forthcoming! Remember...in 1997 NSF commissioned the "Augustine Report" otherwise known as the "Report of the U. S. Antarctic Program External Panel"...a principal recommendation of which was to build a new South Pole station ASAP! The new study by the National Academies of Science, sponsored by NSF, is appropriately titled "The US Antarctic Program: Future Science Opportunities in the Antarctic and Southern Ocean." The report, scheduled for release during the northern 2011 summer, is intended to assess the future science directions of the U. S. Antarctic Program for the next 20 years. And, another major policy review will build upon it. The U.S. Antarctic Blue Ribbon Panel which is also being led by Norm Augustine, will evaluate American long-term strategy for conductiong science and diplomacy in Antarctica and the Southern Ocean region. roger, overSponsored jointly by NSF and the Office of Science and Technology Policy, the panel will report its findings by early 2012 (White House press release and Antarctic Sun article).

In late June Bill Spindler attended the 2011 Antarctic Deep Freeze Association meeting/reunion in Gettysburg. It ran from 21-24 June...Wednesday the 22nd, many of us took an excellent tour of the battlefield and museum; most of the key meeting events including my lecture happened on Thursday. This organization consists primarily of the folks who were on the ice before and during the IGY, 1956-58, although there are some younger members such as I. One of the more interesting features of the event is a phone call between reunion participants and people at Pole--at left is a photo of the event...on the left is Cliff Dickey and on the right is Ken Waldron, two of the 1957 Pole winterover crew...between them is a more recent Polie, Andy Martinez. Bill Spindler happens to be the only person who has participated in these phone calls from both ends. Here are some pictures of the Pole end of the phone call in 2005.

chill out

I hope you had a happy midwinters day whenever you chose to celebrate it! The official moment of the solstice was 0516 (SP/McM time) Wednesday 22 June...McMurdo and Pole chose to celebrate the event on Saturday the 18th...noted by the greeting cards you see at left and at right...while Scott Base will hold their special dinner on the 23rd, to commemorate the fact that Scott and Amundsen had midwinter100 years later festivities on that date 100 years ago. The Scott Polar Research Institute in Cambridge has posted a blog based on Scott's diaries from 100 years ago; here's the page devoted to the midwinter activities. The full story...the book Scott's Last Expedition (Vol. 1, which describes the main body expedition activities) is available for free from the Gutenberg Project in a variety of electronic formats. Amundsen has a similar brief blog produced by the Fram Museum in Oslo. Amundsen's book The South Pole contains an entire chapter (60 pages) describing the events of 23 June 1911...it is also available, here, from the Gutenberg Project. As for the 2011 event, Robert Schwarz has lots of pictures!.

So is the upcoming summer the "chaos season?" Well, on 15 January 2011 this New York Times article (subscription access may be required) suggested that hundreds of people want to visit Pole in 2011-12, which is the centennial of Amundsen's and Scott's arrival. There will be skiiers from the coast, the last degree or the last 20 miles...tourists on champagne flights...competitive racers...drivers arriving overland by truck...and of course a bunch of official government distinguished visitors. Perhaps as many as 1000 people...compared to last season when there were about 300 NGO visitors. Of special interest is the fact that a number of the expeditions will be retracing some or all of Scott's and Amundsen's routes from the Ross Ice Shelf, rather than the usual routes from near Union Glacier. NSF has a special committee at work to determine what the official commemorative events will be...and Raytheon will have a special coordinator on hand to deal with the hordes, sell them stuff in the store, and keep them safe and away from the science. So who all is coming? Well, if you've been here before, you know that this web site has maintained the most comprehensive list of such ventures since 1999...and despite the sputtering economy, this year's list was rather long and kept growing.

4 June at Pole saw the seventh annual renewal of another strange Pole event...the BF5K...or a 5 km race through the halls of the station...18 laps in all. The spectacular part about it, as always, was the amazing costumes worn by the participants! Check out Robert Schwarz's page of photos!

baby, it's cold outside

Global warming? Tell that to the 14 latest members of the 300 Club! Yes...on Friday 27 May (left) the temps dipped into triple digits...let's welcome Susan MacGregor, who at age 62 is the oldest person to be initiated into that great organization! I don't think I ought to post photos of her athletic performance...but I WILL post a link to her May Antarctic Sun article in which she describes the amazing successes of the growth chamber. Yes, there are photos.

Contract news...well, although the rumors are circulating yet again...to the best I've been able to determine they are just that. The facts...Amendment 11 to the RFP came out on 20 May...followed by, yes, Amendment 12 on 3 June! What does this mean? Nothing...except for the number crunchers and bean counters with the 3 finalists who now must recrunch and recount stuff and submit a few more trees by 14 June. We are still supposed to hear something in September...no, maybe in November.

support the rebuilding of ChristchurchThe ice folks in Denver came up with an amazing fundraising event for the Christchurch earthquake rebuilding effort...Saturday 16 April (poster at right) at the Bug Theater. It included a silent auction as well as musical stuff...sorry I was a bit too far away to attend...but I can report that they ran the place out of beer! This and related events have generated $22,700 to be sent to the Christchurch Earthquake Appeal. Amazing ice people!

IceCube hasn't found anything yet...according to this April 2011 paper by the IceCube Collaboration (WIRED blog post with links to abstract of paper). Well...not exactly. It has detected neutrinos, but so far, the attempts to correlate them with gamma ray bursts have been unsuccessful. To quote paper coauthor Nathan Whitehorn, "In two years we'll have an answer, or a lot of scratching our heads. We'll either see neutrinos, or something will be strange with the universe." Which is, after all, why we do science...to find out about strange things.

April Fools? Well, not really...despite the continuing budget wrangling in Congress...the contract folks finally got around to awarding the 1-year support contract to RPSC...just under the wire on 31 March. This was publicly announced at 1832 Eastern time on...1 April 2011. Well, you saw that news here first. Here's the announcement.

yeah, this was photoshopped, right?

Sunset! The big dinner was 19 March...the official sunset was not until 23 March...and the weather was clear enough for it to be watched and documented. One example is at left...actually showing a bit of that rarely seen green flash (general info page). This particular photo was taken by winterover IceCube astrophysicist Freija Descamps...who was interviewed by PRI (Public Radio International) The World on 24 March. She discussed her life and work at Pole, and presented some photos including the one you see at left. Well worth your time! Oh, and if you are looking for an excellent video of the sunset scene, check out this one by Weeks Heist!

The month after closing was the typical hectic round of station closing activities...cleaning and winterizing summer camp...washing all of the dirty linen...rolling up the fuel hose...putting out flag lines to outlying buildings. The outside world was not forgotten...over $10,000 with matching funds was collected to support the ChCh relief efforts...and the folks in Denver are sponsoring a major event to generate additional relief funds--Ice Aid (poster at right) on 16 April at the Bug Theater in downtown Denver. News updates...I'm still working on some of the new big science projects...for example, ARA, the next big neutron telescope.

Closing time at McM...a strange end to the rest of the USAP summer. First...the 22 February massive Christchurch earthquake, which devastated the central city and disrupted the final McM redeployment...along with storms and warm weather that broke up the ice around Ross Island...waves were breaking on the McMurdo beach, and open water threatened the road to the Pegasus runway breaking news(right, a composite view and more info). Around the same time, news of a sudden February 2-man Norwegian Pole expedition...which started from the Bay of Whales and ended after the supporting yacht Berserk sank north of Ross Island, with the death of 3 crew members. According to one report, the Pole trip made it to within 200 miles of Pole before they turned around...since evacuated to Chch. (story).

Closing time at Pole...February 15th...leaves 49 winterovers for the 2011 season, although a couple of Twin Otter flights were still transiting. The absolute last plane, a Basler, departed for Rothera on the 23rd. The small crowd...35 men and 14 women. Time to rearrange the galley! Things are pretty busy on station these days with all of the closing activities, so the full statistics are still being calculated...

The beginning of February was cargo time at McM 14 February MSC press release). On the 30th the tanker Richard G. Matthiesen showed up, using the channel previously cleared by the Swedish science/icebreaker Oden, which arrived about 16 January. The Matthiesen has been to McMurdo before...most recently in January 2003...when actually it didn't get to the pier, but hoses had to be laid out from about 4 miles away. This is the last year for the Military Sealift Command (MSC) tanker Matthiesen, which is about to be laid up, following the other T-5 tankers. Why? Other than old age, a new Antarctic treaty protocol prohibits vessels (such as old MSC ships) using heavy fuel oil in Antarctic waters, effective 1 August 2011. Thus, this year's cargo ship was NOT the American Tern of previous seasons, but the chartered BBC EMS, flagged by Antigua Barbuda. It finished up and departed McM on 13 February.

 What NGA expeditions went down in 2010-11...here's what actually happened...
[For much better coverage, watch thepoles.com, run by Thomas and Tina Sjogren...or the individual expedition websites. Also note that all distances listed below unless otherwise noted are in statute miles (5,280 feet, 7/8 nautical miles or 1.6 km), and times are South Pole time (UTC+13 in the austral summer).

Christian Eide
announced late in the planning cycle that he would do a solo ski trip from Hercules Inlet to Pole starting in December...after a Vinson climb and a Last Degree trip as a guide. After doing that stuff he started out for Pole on 20 December. He arrived on 13 January...the time of 24 days is almost 10 days faster than that of the Canadian team of Richard Weber, Ray Zahab, Kevin Vallely who arrived in January 2009. Christian was not very happy with the "official" NSF reception he received...I'm not sure what happened, since general relations with NGO visitors seem to be better than they were in the 80s.
The Korean "green expedition"
arrived at Pole on 28 January after a 41-day trip from Hercules Inlet. The group, led by Park Young-seok, used snowmobiles powered by solar panels. The trip was slowed by cloudy weather which slowed down their recharging, they almost had to abort the trip because of the scheduled closure of ALE flight operations--to speed their journey, 2 team members and some of their cargo were evacuated to Union Glacier along the way. Typically it took 3 hours of recharging to provide enough power for one hour of travel. I haven't been able to find out much English language news about this interesting venture.
The Moon Regan Transantarctic Expedition
with co-leaders Andrew Regan and Andrew Moon, happened at last, after several years of delays (my coverage). The group flew from PA to the AL&E Union Glacier (UG) camp on 26 November. There the group assembled their Winston Wong Bio-Inspired Ice Vehicle (BIV), and they set out for Pole on the 28th (SP time). That was supposed to be a 5-day trip, then they continued on a 7-day drive to...McMurdo via the Leverett Glacier. Or they were supposed to, but because of delays they turned around when they hit the Ross Ice Shelf at the base of the Leverett Glacier on 10 December. They then retraced their route, arriving back at Pole on 12 December, and at UG on the 17th. The BIV is a one-person vehicle, its engine was recently switched out to a four-cylinder 115-HP 1.2 liter Rotax 914 aircraft engine, which burns E85. The rest of the 10-man expedition rode in 2 converted Ford Econoline vans, one of which we've seen before. They had fuel depots at Pole and Marble Point...the latter one the felt they couldn't get to before the ice melted. They did pass the SP Traverse along the way. Here's a news article from the Engineer (UK magazine/blog) with many more technical details. Oh, as it turned out, the BIV was parked at Pole when the team first arrived, and on the return trip they picked it up and towed it back to UG.
Willem ter Horst
from the Netherlands planned a resupplied trip guided by Hannah McKeand, starting from Hercules Inlet. After the usual delays (and discovering they forgot to pack the stove) they started out on 27 November. They reached Pole on 12 January,
the 2010-11 South Pole Race (my coverage)
was a 2010-11 preliminary event to the big Race to the South Pole sponsored by German and Austrian TV networks ZDF and ORF. 4-man Austrian and German teams traveled 200 miles to Pole, supported by some of those wheeled vehicles that have been seen on the continent in the past few years. The Austrian team featured Hermann Maier and Tom Walek, accompanied by Sabrina Grillitsch (Austria's only woman member of the mountain infantry), and Husky racer Alexander Serdjukov. The German team was led by celebrity Markus Lanz and triathlete Joey Kelley, along with scientist Claudia Beitsch and Air Force member Dennis Lenhart. Advance teams showed up at Pole around 26 December...the race teams finished a couple of days later, and there was a big New Years Eve party attended by some of the Polies. Who won? Well, I know, but...the TV shows were aired in Europe in April 2011, and you can watch a YouTube summary. Or have a look at Robert Schwarz's documentation and pictures...
An 8-man team from the Indian Army
led by Anand Swaroop and includng Bala Karthik, Showkat Ahmad MirArjun Kumar Thapa, Parsuram Gurung , Ram Singh, Khilap Singh and Tsewang Morup, and guided by ALE/ANI guides Devon McDiarmid and Svante Strand, started from Hercules Inlet on 26 November and reached Pole on 15 January. No good blog site, but here's another news article, and here's a blog site with a few pictures.
Chris Foot
from southern England, set off on a 2010-11 solo unsupported return trip from Hercules Inlet to Pole. Walking...he set out from Hercules Inlet on the morning of 26 November SP time. If he'd succeeded, he would have been the first Brit to do so, but he called off the return portion of his trip a couple days before successfully reaching Pole on 6 January, since he wouldn't have had enough time to get back to the coast before the ANI/ALE season ended on the 28th.. He's an ex-Royal Marine and Special Air Service member, part of his preparation included the Polar Challenge race to the North Magnetic Pole earlier in 2010. Here is a London Telegraph article and an Explorers Web article with more information. After reaching Pole he hinted at a new Antarctic venture for next season.
The Kazakh Geographic Society (KGS) (Arctic Trucks blog)
planned a trip from Novo to Pole with 7-10 people, using three or four of those Arctic Trucks AT44 vehicles, including some of the same ones used by the scientific expedition by the Indian National Centre for Antarctic and Ocean Research. They cut back their plans to a 4-person crew, Konstantin Orlov and Stanislav Makarenko from KGS, Hlynur Sigurðsson from Arctic Trucks, and Andrey Myller of ALCI. They departed Novo on 4 December (SP time), originally planning to go only to the fuel depot at 83°S, but they made such good time that they continued on to Pole, arriving at midday on 9 December--total travel time of 108 hours. This was later certified as a world record for the 1434-mile trip from Novo, at an average speed of 13.3 mph, beating out the British record of 10.8 mph for the shorter trip from Patriot Hills. They left Pole the next day, returning to Novo late evening on the 14th. This trip was a test run for a much larger expedition planned for 2011-12.

Running stuff...not only was the Christmas Day Race Around the World a historic trekking event vs a the tame "3x round the Pole" event of yore...but it developed later into the first real South Pole marathon.

Around Christmas 2010, there were lots of NGA visitors...all of the various Last Degree participants, plus the "South Pole Race folks. This created a great crowd of people in the NGA camp, and since many of them had arrived in vehicles, they had lots of "stuff" with them. A great party scene...here's one description by David "Pablo" Cohn. the Race folks departed on New Years.

Elsewhere on the plateau, the Russians have finally come up with an environmentally acceptable way to sample the waters of Lake Vostok without contaminating it, and drilling is expected to be completed in January. The top of the lake is about 12,300 feet below the ice surface. When the mechanical drill gets to within 100 feet, it will be replaced with a thermal lance...when that reaches the water, some will be forced up into the drill hole where it will freeze. Next season the team will sample some of that frozen water...(Wired Science article).

Perhaps the biggest news of the month of December...IceCube...after many years of planning and 6 seasons of drilling...starting in 2004-2005 when they successfully had ONE hole running that winter...finished up drilling their final 86th hole and setting the string...appropriately numbered #80 based on the original plans for 80 strings. The string deployment was completed and tied off just before 1800 on 18 December. Here's the Decembeer 2010 report (PDF with video link) from the folks in Madison, and an Antarctic Sun article! Well done! Now let's catch and roast some neutrinos...

we're having a blast at PoleNow we know what all those explosives were for...on 1 December Old Pole was blown up! Or so the planners hoped. Several tons of explosives are being used. What for? Well, since last season's Old Pole remediation efforts were less than successful, more dramatic means were called for. More surveys were made, charges were placed, and after they went off there were several deep holes where buildings (or at least their top hats--attic structures originally built to reduce the snow load on the building roofs) used to be. Another blast was conducted on 4 December, and a third series a few days later. Hopefully now the landscape will be safe and no longer off-limits. Common drive photo at right...the rest of the story/pictures/video!.

pulling a fast one.The next batch of unusual visitors showed up on 3 December...the 10-member Moon Regan expedition with their two Ford vans and the fancy Bio-Inspired Vehicle (left, more pics/info). After a day or two at Pole they headed off down the road to McMurdo...although they decided to turn around when they reached the Ross Ice Shelf at the base of the Leverett Glacier. They returned to Pole and completed the return trip from Union Glacier on 17 December.

Thanksgiving weekend the first real tourists arrived, on Saturday four Slovakian "last degree" skiers as well as a Basler with 9 tourists--eight from Russia, one from Switzerland. After a tour, the Basler took the tourists and skiers back to Novo. A less publicized but much more significant event accompanied the arrival of the Indian science team (see below)...a massive fuel airdrop by a Russian IL-76 (21 November), about 32 miles away from the station, for use by future science and NGO ventures to Pole. My exclusive coverage.

someone finally got up early enough to see the New York Times carrier throw the paper on the porchAt least four non-USAP ventures to Pole this season featured wheeled vehicles! Three of these involve Toyota Hilux trucks modified by Iceland customizer Arctic Trucks. Actually the first of these ventures has come and gone already...the Indian scientific expedition by the Indian National Centre for Antarctic and Ocean Research (NCAOR) (the news page). This group got to the ice (Novo) on 8 November, and left for Pole on in four Hilux vehicles on the 13th, with 12 people (6 scientists and 2 mechanics from Maitri, and 4 ALCI staff (2 drivers and 2 Icelanders). Three of the vehicles reached Pole on the 21st, after having to replace an axle and a radiator en route (right, a photo from 2011 w/o Marco Tortonese (more photos and information). After a rest and some maintenance work in the heavy shop, they headed north on the 24th, after stopping at new ALCI fuel depot 14 miles north of Pole. Another scientific (I think) venture by the Kazakhstan National Geographic Society utilized the same vehicles during December. The other two wheeled trips to Pole were the Moon-Regan TransAntarctic Expedition and the 2010-11 South Pole Race...NGA events mentioned above.

The latest twists and turns in the contract...on 26 October a new amendment was posted, outlining a significant amount of new information that the three final bidders would have to submit prior to a new 6 December deadline. But...in November there was a new set of data requirements, questions, answers, and on 19 November another extension of the deadline to 20 December (the latest complete file from the FedBizOpps site and my page of information on the contracting process)

IceCube was up and running, they started drilling around the Thanksgiving weekend holiday and finished the last 7 holes perhaps before the end of the year. Their weekly reports were posted on the IceCube home page, and there's a blog as well.

Dana is back in 2011More science news...the amazing South Pole Telescope is researching the cosmic microwave background radiation (CMBR)...dark energy...2010 winterover friend Dana Hrubes (left) was one of the two folks lookng after the SPT this past winter, here is his interview filmed by James Travis III as part of the 10/10/10 One Day on Earth project.

Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions (AL&E, owner of ANI/Adventure Networks) announced in early November that they'd set up a new blue ice runway and primary camp at Union Glacier, about 45 miles northwest of Patriot Hills. The runway has been fully certified. Here's their press release. Camp setup started in early November, but the first Ilyushin-76 passenger flight from PA was delayed for 2 weeks, it did not arrive until 25 November SP time...and the passengers found sunny above-zero°F weather. Another flight was scheduled for the following day.

Airplanes...and no airplanes! A storm later named the "death claw" blew in starting on 6 November, record-breaking high temperatures and high winds made a mess of things for the next few days and delayed the departure of some of the winterovers. A flag line was set up from summer camp to the station due to the low visibility. Here's the Antarctic Sun article, and at right is a photo of science coordinator Al Baker weathering the storm at the ceremonial Pole water bottles may freeze (Antarctic Photo Library photo by Julie Bonneau). And here is the list of broken weather records from the Wisconsin meterological center.

Airplanes at last...the first Herc landed at Pole on Tuesday evening 2 November. There have been more since, and by now most of the 2010 winterovers are in Christchurch or at least on the way. Summer has truly begun. The first of the LC-130s had shown up in McMurdo on 24 October, and original plans were for the first batch of Polies to leave on Friday the 29th, perhaps on a straight through connection to ChCh via C-17. Hah. Weather, mechanical problems, and scheduling delays due to...the tragic French helicopter crash north of Dumont d'Urville (story and photos). So on Halloween weekend the new Polies were cooling their heels in McM and the winterovers were enjoying another weekend of the "soft opening." By now (12 November) most all of the w/o's should be gone, after a 5 day delay of the Herc flight originally scheduled to show up on the 8th.

fly me north for the summer

The Baslers first appeared on Saturday 16 October on the transit from Rothera to McMurdo--left, a photo from Cody Meyer...and here is the Antarctic Sun article. It was a brief stop, and (due to delays) without freshies. The first pax flight was scheduled for Monday but was cancelled because of cold weather. But Tuesday morning 19 October it did take off, and landed around noon with 16 fresh passengers. Temperature was about -65°F. Winter was over. The second Basler flight showed up on the 23rd, and the third on Sunday 24 October, but that one got to stay overnight due to bad weather in MacTown. Only one of the 2010 w/o's left on the Basler flights.

In between the frenetic station opening activities, another unique event occurred on 9 October...the American Radio Relay League conducted an exam at Pole...testing testingthe result was EIGHT new technician licensees, who are now on the air! At right, a photo of the exam participants in the large conference room, by volunteer examiner (VE) Ernie Gray (W1MRQ). Here is the ARRL news article.

Summer plans and science news--a rather low-key season is planned, compared to previous seasons which saw pieces of the massive new station erected...and the dome removed. The biggest news involves the two largest science projects. IceCube will complete the last 7 drill holes of its 86-string neutrino telescope (and begin to retrograde some if the construction equipment). Here's an October NSF special report/video, a November 2010 Smithsonian Magazine article, and of course the IceCube blog. And the nearby South Pole Telescope will continue its sky surveys...in October the team announced discovery of the largest galaxy cluster yet seen--7 billion light years away (Harvard-Smithsonian CFA press release). Other more mundane planned projects include completion of the fuel piping system between the fuel arch, station and skiway fuel pits...commissioning of "rodwell 3"...and perhaps a bit more "remediation" of the site formerly known as Old Pole.

September 2010, the sun is up, but the contract was, well, still out there. On 20 September US time a new one-year extension to the RPSC contract was announced...to give NSF more time to select from the best and final bidders. RPSC now will be running the program through 31 March 2012. Here is the announcement, and my updated contract rebid page.

A McMurdo medevac kept the Pole flight following team busy for several days. The first Royal NZ Air Force P-3 Orion flight had to turn around due to bad weather at McMurdo, but another try made it in successfully on the 14th (NZ Herald article). On the 15th the guy, with pneumonia, was discharged from Christchurch Hospital.

Yes, as of 20 August we finally have some news on the contract rebid. The three finalists are CH2MHILL, Lockheed Martin, and KBR. Which leaves out the other four bidders: TransPolar (the Raytheon/AECOM joint venture), Antarctic Research Support, the joint venture between EG&G and CSC, Fluor, and ITT Antarctic Services. Hmmm. Hmmm is all I can say at this point. Well, except that there is another Antarctic contract out there. NSF had a preliminary inquiry out for the nest Title II inspection contract. Remember, Title II at Pole was what I did in 2005.

Winfly was supposed to start on 13 August 2010...but first there was a mechanical delay, and then some Condition 1 weather in McMurdo. But the first of the 7 flights finally made it in on the evening of the 15th. Here is the Antarctic Sun story about these flights.

Important historical stuff from the other side of the continent...the former research vessel HERO has been definitely located in Bay Center, Washington, where the new owner has had it since September 2008. And I do have pictures that friend Jon Lingel took.

Bill enjoyed the Antarctic "gathering" 15-17 July 2010, at Paul Dalyrimple's place in Port Clyde, ME. I was not the youngest Polie there...remember that Paul wintered a few years ago in 1958, so his winterover number is 21. The weekend featured lobster and other great food, and many presentations including one from Bob Benson who wintered in 1957...thanks to alphabetical order his winterover number is ONE. There were lots of Antarctic folks there...remember that Paul is the resident editor of the Antarctican Society newsletter, which now has an enhanced web presence documented here.

The Fourth of July weekend was celebrated with a pork dinner...with the whole pig getting grilled on the outdoor barbecue. And it was followed up with a prolonged period of triple digit temperatures...plenty of time for more 300 club members! The temps dipped below -100°F several times during the first few days of July...and the Fourth of July was the coldest on record.

The 18 June station update in the Antarctic Sun features extensive science coverage by SSL and friend Dana Hrubes, who of course has many more great aurora pictures on his own June web page.

PoliesMidwinters Day 2010...the halfway point in the dark season, and perhaps the 2/3 point for folks who showed up at Pole at the beginning of last summer season. The big dinner was on Friday the 18th, with more celebration activities throughout the weekend. Not to mention the annual midwinter greeting (left). Another traditional winter activity, the annual Pole marker design competition, had an amazing TWELVE entries this year, and the winner is...well, it has been selected, and machinist Derek is probably already planning out how to create the hard copy, but the rest of the world will see it revealed on 1 January 2011. This marker is especially significant since it will be the official South Pole marker in December 2011, which of course marks the centennial anniversary of Roald Amundsen's visit. Unlike all of the other folks who arrived at Pole overland, Roald had to bring along his own Pole marker. And I guess I must also point out that Amundsen was the first of only two expeditions that traveled to Pole from the coast using dogs. No, I wasn't around when Amundsen showed up, but I WAS present when Will Steger's expedition showed up with dog teams in December 1989. Oh, in keeping with the season sentiments (and inhibiting attempts to take outdoor group photos) the temperatures have been dipping to the -90s this week.

IceCube was in the news again! Yes, on 1 June, the Wall Street Journal found time to cover this amazing project in between more depressing news about the BP Gulf oil spill and Euro finances. Catch the article while it is available. With photos and video of course!

It was dark. "Astronomical Twilight" (when the sun is less than 18 degrees below the horizon) ended on 12 May 2010. The auroras are out there and they've been awesome! Here's the site for the all-sky camera that displays thousands of images per day.

baby it's cold outside

Contract rebid stuff...no news was no news. The "competitive range determination" and revised milestones for the new multiyear contract, originally promised by the end of March and later by 9 April, were not issued until August. Earlier, NSF and RPSC finalized the one-year contract extension on 25 March (the 5 April Raytheon press release). Here's my updated page on the contracting process.

It got cold! Surprisingly the temperature dipped into the triple digits on 13 April, as documented by the scroll image at right (thanks Dana Hrubes). The temperature actually stayed below -100°F for 22 minutes...long enough for the first officially sanctioned 300 club running since 2006 (on 2 September 2007 the temperature dipped below -100°F too briefly for anything to happen, and it did NOT get that cold in either 2008 or 2009). The only other year in station history without 3 digit temperatures was 1964. Oh, this is well documented as the second earliest 300 club in station history. (The earliest was in April 1982 as documented by Robert Williscroft.) April 2010 was the coldest recorded April on record, with an average temperature of -80.7°F. On the other hand, 2009 was the warmest year on record (Antarctic Sun article).

The sun set, well, perhaps officially around 0900 on 23 March 2010, well hidden behind murky skies. But of course it was marked by an amazing sunset dinner, extremely well documented by cook Cody Meyer.

Two polar gatherings of note in Boulder in the spring of 2010...in mid May was the American Polar Society meeting, (detailed information). Earlier, the "Polar Technology Conference" was hosted by UNAVCO on 25-26 March. Here's the web site...the online list of attendees grew rather impressively in the weeks before the meeting, and the presentations are now online. I was around for both meetings, I spent about 7 weeks in Boulder this spring.

At the Polar Technology Conference I learned that a new wind turbine was erected at Pole this past summer...a 2.5 KW unit constructed by Abundant Renewable Energy (ARE) (below left). Here are more details...

give it a spin

More dome details...on 10 March NSF released this extensive press release with photo gallery!

The McMurdo summer season officially ended Friday 5 March, as the last flight, the Australian A319 Airbus, departed with the last few summer folks that had been closing thing up for winter. 197 souls remained for the winter. Flight statistics for this season--in addition to several Airbus missions, there were 59 C-17 flights, 7 RNZAF C-130 flights, and two trial flights by the RNZAF 757 aircraft. It turns out that the U. S. Air Force flight season to the ice had been completed the previous week, on 24 February (USAF press release).

Some late summer satellite news, there was an enginering test in January investigating the possible use of the Intelsat SkyNet-4c commercial satellite as a replacement for the TDRS-F1 satellite which was decommissioned last October. Who at Pole assisted with these tests...well, Shaun Meehan, the 2008 and 2010 winter comms tech of course. The Skynet satellite is slowly drifting into an orbit with increasing Pole coverage. It could be in service in 2011, here is the contract award announcement, and here is an unofficial IceCube blog presentation about the current and future satellite situation. Use of the current TDRSS satellites costs the program over $100 per minute. Speaking of satellites, NSF has recently updated their Pole satellite stuff including lots of information about the current systems as well as a new availability page which can be found here.

no mattresses on this roofGlobal warming? Or is it more appropriate to say global warning? One unarguable fact is that the debate itself is certainly continuing to heat up. Other facts...while the Antarctic Peninsula and coastal areas are warming, as evidenced by the continuing and recent iceberg activity (AAD press release, photos and data and Antarctic Sun article), the South Pole temperatures have actually been getting colder since measurements began in 1957. Winterover meteorologist Tim Markle explains this in this recent video interview posted by Earthgauge. Tim also notes that 2009 by itself was the warmest year on record. More commentary is here in this 1 March blog posting by Britsh meteorologist Andy Russell. What does this mean for this winter's potential 300 club members? Too early to tell.

the last of the dome slugs

Yes, winter 2010 started on 14 February. This date marked the end of a dramatic summer construction seasson--officially the last for the South Pole Station Modernization (SPSM project). The most obvious change of course was the removal of the dome (left, the 15 January final group photo by Forest Banks, taken just before the last few pieces were removed). But elsewhere things are looking a lot more finished thanks to the completion of the "pretty stuff" as C-note used to describe the siding panels. At right is a February 2010 aerial view of the elevated station (thanks to Ethan Good) showing the finished roof, complete with its yellow grating in the science area above B2. Other buildings around the station also received the finished siding, including cryo, RF, and the SPT wing of DSL.

Elsewhere, a bit less dramatic perhaps, the Cheese Palace was made to disappear, and the long-abandoned Hypertats were dug up and relocated, two by summer camp and two at the end of the world. The remediation of the Old Pole site, begun last March, was continued--one possible use for this area that had been considered is a relocated and expanded NGA aircraft parking/camping area. Efforts this summer included a GPR survey followed by some grooming and dragging, but...as happened last March, soft spots opened up, this time sinking a Challenger and the D-8. The equipment was recovered safely, and plans were being reviewed for additional remediation work, which was completed in the 2010-11 summer.

What NGA expeditions were up for 2009-10...actually thanks to the economy it was a rather short list, with some cancellations.

Cecilie Skog and Ryan Waters,
planned an unsupported unassisted ski trip from Berkner Island to Pole--the longest distance--800 miles, of any of the traditional NGA routes. And...time and weather permitting, they proposed to continue across the continent and descend to the base of the Axel Heiberg Glacier where it meets the Ross Ice Shelf. Cecelie is a Norwegian adventurer and guide...the only woman to complete the "Adventurer's Grand Slam" (7 summits and both poles), and Ryan is an American outdoor educator and mountain guide. They were among several teams who arrived at PH on the Ilyushin on 13 November (SP time) and were flown to their starting point later that day. They reached Pole on New Years Day, and after a tour of the station and some very positive comments about the station and the science on their blog, they continued (grid) south toward the Ross Ice Shelf, which they reached on 22 January.
Eric Larsen
from Grand Marais, MN, guided an ANI/ALE trip from Hercules Inlet this year, with resupply. The trip includes Canadian Dongsheng Liu (who grew up in China) and Irish/Canadian William Hanlon. This is also a kickoff of Eric's attempt to complete the Three Poles (North Pole, South Pole and Everest) in 365 days. They also were on the 13 November flight and were delayed getting to PH because of high winds, they made it to the starting point on the 17th and set out the next day. On day 47 (3 January SP time) they arrived successfully at Pole, and were flown back to PH less than a day later.
Hannah McKeand
the British woman who previously set a South Pole speed record, led a guided resupplied trip for ANI/ALE from the Ronne-Filchner Ice Shelf, also known as the "Messner Start" (82° 26'S, 64° 58'W) since Reinhold started his 1989-90 crossing from nearby. She guided Canadian Arnold Witzig. They reached Pole around 27 December, although there was very little public news. Hannah embarked on a solo trip to the North Pole in 2010.
The Kasperky Commonwealth Antarctic Expedition
consisted of 8 selected women from the British Commonwealth countries of Singapore, Ghana, India, Jamaica, Brunei, the United Kingdom, New Zealand, and Cyprus. The group was led by 31-year-old Felicity Aston from the UK...the other group members also have web presence. They also arrived at PH on the 13th, and waited at PH (suffering a tent-battering windstorm) for many days before getting flown to their "Messner Start" position on 22 November. Kim-Marie Spence from Jamaica was forced to abandon the trip after only one day due to severe frostbite. The team completed the 562-mile trip to Pole on 30 December. All of their blog entries are available from this page.
Morten Grundsøe and Jens Erik Nielsen
are two Danes who set off on a trip from the "Messner Start" on 30 November after some last-minute scrambling for a sponsor after their original flight arrangements were cancelled. They successfuly reached Pole on 29 December. Here's a link to the Google English translation of their Danish language blog.
Cancelled! 670 Arctic Miles.com
was Swedes Ted Karlsson and Christian Rosenqvist, who said they would ski this distance (which is also 1130 km) from Hercules Inlet to Pole, unassisted and unsupported, in the 2009-10 season. But there was nothing new on their now-disappeared website for months, their venture never happened.
The Moon Regan Transantarctic Expedition
was to be a rather unusual venture planned to include not one but two of those tricked Ford 6-wheel-drive vans ("Science Support Vehicles")--one of which made the trip to Pole already in 2005-06 in a trip which included Andrew Moon--as well as a "Concept Ice Vehicle"--a 3-ski biofueled propeller-driven lightweight vehicle developed by Lotus. They planned to start from PH, head to Pole, and then cut through the Transantarctic Mountains and cross the Ross Ice Shelf to McMurdo. The team includes Moon and Andrew Regan, this is another of those expeditions that had been in the planning stages and the media for awhile, but no dates. They never said how they will get their vehicles shipped from McM, and the site hasn't been updated since mid 2009.
Meagan McGrath
adventurer from northern Ontario, aimed to be the first Canadian to complete a solo unsupported/unassisted from Hercules Inlet to Pole. She's already done the seven summits and the Marathon des Sables, and is working on the rest of the 8000 m peaks. She flew south from PA to PH on 29 November and was dropped off at Hercules Inlet on 1 December. Buther trip to Pole was a bit rough, after starting off from HI on 2 December, she fell into a crevasse and spent 8 hours in it before being rescued, with bruised ribs. After resting up a bit, she set out again from PH on 8 December. She arrived on 16 January. Here's another of her sites with detail of her previous exploits.
SouthPole2009.co.uk
is a simulated journey by 17-year-old British Katie Walter, from Shackleton's furthest south (88°23'S) to Pole, the last 97 nautical miles. They (Katie and three others--56-year-old Nottingham pharmacist Shally Suri, 43-year-old IT manager Ian Berry from Croyden, and 53-year-old Wendy Kidd, a publicist from Northern Ireland) were based out of Patriot Hills and guided by veteran Mike Thornwill. The team arrived at PH on 17 December, did a bit of training, flew to the starting point on the 22nd, and reached Pole on New Years Day. Here's another blog from guide Mike's Polar Challenge International site.
Postponed!Ronny Finsaas and Fiona Lindsay
had planned a crossing of the continent starting at Novo, heading to Pole with a return to Patriot Hills. Sometimes chef at the PH camp, Ronny, who was born in Norway, kited from Pole to the camp in 5 days in January 2008; and Fiona is from Scotland.
Postponed! The Last Great Challenge
is the English businessman John Wilton-Davies' next proposed venture with Justin Miles--a planned unsupported round trip in 77 days from Hercules Inlet. John previously tried to reach Pole in 2006-07 but was delayed by weather and problems with a crevasse field, and had to abort his venture when the ALE airlift support season ended. This time he hopes to do the return trip in 77 days. John was having trouble finding a sponsor in time for a 2008-09 venture, it is now off again until 2010-11.

not much leftMore on the dome deconstruction...after a the last big food pull the week before Thanksgiving 2009, and some other clearing and preliminary stuff, the structural work began. Skylab went first (photos), and the first top section of the dome was lifted off on 18 December. The rest of my dome photos are here. Other coverage elsewhere--on 10 November the New York Times published this excellent article on 10 November for which I was interviewed. And there is significant Antarctic Sun coverage, this feature in ExplorersWeb, and the OAEA publication Explorer's Gazette (index page). And as for more photos I must also recommend this fresh collection by Forest Banks, available here. Forest provided me other pictures including the progress photo at left.

Science stuff...IceCube had yet another successful summer, it is hard for me to believe this was the penultimate drilling season, especially since when I showed up for my 2005 winter they had successfully completed exactly one hole. This season they started drilling on 4 December 2009, and completed 20 holes on 20 January, 10 days ahead of schedule, for a total of 79. Current plans are for a total of 86 holes, which means only 7 to be drilled next summer. All of the holes through the firn have been completed. Here is the end of season press release...the weekly reports from this past summer are available in the archive section here. Hmmm...what will B1 lounge be like next summer? Faciliies related stuff...the IceCube lab (ICL) got a real stairway to the roof this past summer, and the computer room fire suppression system was mostly installed. Moving to DSL, the South Pole Telescope (SPT) is producing an incredible amount of data about the beginning of the universe...which of course means there have been an incredible number of papers published just in the past year. For more SPT info the best source I can think of at the moment is fellow 2005/2008 winterover Dana Hrubes. At the other end of DSL the new incarnation of BICEP, otherwise known as BICEP2, has cranked up to study other angles of the beginning of the universe. The SPASE-2 hut has been retired from the dark sector, and the cosray detectors have been relocated between the station and ARO. Back behind where the dome used to be, the antenna crew took down some of the old towers, although if you look closely at some of the dome demo pictures, there are still a couple left out there.

no bowling leagues this weekMcMurdo update...some fairly major landscape changes happened or are in progress. Probably the most sentimentally significant was the demo of Building 63, the 1950s vintage Quonset hut otherwise known as the bowling alley...which met its demise due to structural failure (yes, the manual pinsetting equipment was saved). Along with that, the T-site building was removed, along with one of the two remaining nuke plant buildings halfway up Ob Hill. And building 155 was given a distinctive coat of blue paint! I do have pictures.

The Antarctic contract...let me say first that major updates are posted on my definitive commentary page about the rebid. On 23 December 2009 the Federal Business Opportunities site posted another update, but it is already stale, since it describes a request for the bidders to reformat some of their financial information back in October. There also are some additional Q&A's indicating that there will be some "best and final" negotiations at some point. Since then, on 5 January NSF FINALLY posted a revised schedule on their contract rebid website, although there is not a lot of new detail here either. The Denver Westword news blog put out this story on 30 December with additional information on the lack of information; writer Jonathan Shikes quotes RPSC spokesperson Valerie Carroll..."they received a lot of info from all kinds of competitors and bidders, and it wasn't as easy to compare apples to apples." She explains that RPSC is negotiating for a year extension, and that the award is expected around September 2010.

New Years Day always brings the unveiling of the new Pole marker at a new location, and 2010 was no exception. Here's my page of photos and info about the marker and the event.

The last weekend in November 2009 marked the sad 30th anniversary of the tragic DC-10 crash on Mt. Erebus. The NZ program sent family representatives to the ice for memorial services, a couple of NZ articles are here and here.

women at Pole12 November was the 40th anniversary of the first time women showed up at Pole...six of them all at once. The stories from 2009 and 1969 are here, the date was marked by many of the women on station posing in the photo at left.

1977 Pole Soul sad news...and not new. We learned that Dave Pluth, one of our 1976-77 GFA's, died in May 2009 in Rwanda while on assignment with the national tourism agency (more information).

The history of early season flight delays repeated itself at the end of the 2009 winter. After too many Basler delays, the Hercs showed up, and the first one headed for Pole on Wednesday 28 October...and landed. Visibility was back down to 1 mile (NYANG press release on their deployment). They kept flying to ramp things up and put the station in summer mode quickly. By mid November all of the 2009 winterovers were gone.

The second and third Baslers were scheduled for Friday the 23rd, but the weather observations continued to be bad. Finally one took off...and landed at Pole late Friday afternoon. History repeated itself again, and the stage was set as it were for the First Flight Festival on Saturday evening...a major musical event in the gym.

The first Basler arrived on Monday 19 October 2009, bringing 16 new people and taking 3 winterovers north. The Basler along with a Twin Otter had arrived from Rothera on Tuesday 13 October for a refueling stop on the way to McMurdo. The Basler continued on...the Twin Otter crew ended up staying overnight due to mechanical difficulties--it did not continue to McM until Thursday. Since the Twin Otter was the backup rescue aircraft, the Basler couldn't head south on NSF charter until the Twin Otter was in place. So the opening flight originally headed south on Friday the 16th but boomeranged presumably due to lousy weather and visibility at Pole.

Last year the Canadians on the transit flight brought a few gifts and freshies from Chile (Pisco and oranges!) but this year they did not.

The TDRS-1 satellite was taken out of service on 21 October. From here on, in addition to GOES, the comms will use TDRS 3, 4, 5, and 6 via the SPTR-2 link completed last summer (my complete coverage of the satellite systems and issues past and present is below). TDRS-1 was launched (with difficulty) on the maiden flight of space shuttle Challenger on STS-6 in April 1983.

Bill Spindler was among a number of Polies interviewed in early October for this extensive article "Life in Antarctica is cold— but bloggers there can still get burned" in the Denver alternative weekly newspaper Westword.

hi folks

For some reason or other, a number of past, present and future Polies gathered in Denver at the end of September 2009...including the indubitable Jake Speed along with wife Kathy! At right, some of the documentation... along with an update on Jake, Kathy, and the Jake Speed Fund!

The sun came up! And even visible, thanks to a YouTube video from friend Weeks Heist. The sunrise dinner was 18 September, followed by an open mike night. Meanwhile, a New Zealand Air Force (RNZAF) C-130 has made a medevac flight to McMurdo.

An environmental agreement by Antarctic Treaty nations and the International Maritime Organization (IMO) threatens to force changes to the NSF resupply shipping to McMurdo. The IMO tentatively adopted a measure banning the use of heavy bunker fuel oil by vessels in the Southern Ocean. The measure is a result of recent cruise ship disasters, and it is aimed primarily at that segment of the shipping industry, but it seems that the older US Military Sealift Command vessels used to resupply McMurdo also require heavy bunker fuel. Here's a Science Magazine blog posting.

blue light special on aisle 9

A fresh look at the LO arch (left)...it is now brightly lit and filling up with shelving, thanks to lots of cold weather work by carpenters Todd Adams and Bill Stiner, electricians Robert Dragonfly and Monty Myrtle, project engineer Nathan Greenland, and others to help pull wire and put the erector sets together. Last winter we could not comprehend wire pulling during the winter, but they'd developed a workable system (which requires 7-8 people) to make it happen in cold temps. Soon the contents of the dome will be moved out, some of it to the new shelving units. Many more details are found in a 28 August Antarctic Sun article by correspondent/sous chef Michele Gentille which includes that LO arch photo by Nathan Greenland.

After two days of cancellations, the first winfly flight into McMurdo finally happened on Saturday 22 August 2009, bringing 120 smiling tanned new faces to the ice. Ten folks departed, but by one friend's estimate this represented a 12% increase in the Antarctic population. This was the first of five scheduled flights, including another of those "night vision" landings that they started last year (Antarctic Sun article).

Late winter fun...the Antarctic Film Festival has happened. Stations all over the continent created short films which had to include required content such as a roll of toilet paper, the sound of a can being opened, and the dialog phrase "Want to buy a dog?" A Rothera winterover shamelessly credits his station's winning video on this blog page, but he also credits one of the amazing Pole creations, a spoof on the making of a trailer for the forthcoming movie "Whiteout," which may actually get released in September. First you need to watch the real studio trailer of the movie here, then have a look at David Barud's vimeo site for the director's cut of the trailer spoof that he and Francis Shiel created, featuring many of the 2009 wo's. And there is also the film "A new FNG." Yeah, I know, this is a historical web site, but these cinema efforts are awesome :) More film links are available on this blog page from Anthony Powell at McMurdo.

The Jake Speed fundraising effort received great support on the ice and elsewhere. The polar community raised more than $36,000 (and the fund is now closed). An impressive sum...thanks to all who have contributed! In late spring 2009 Jake was discharged from the hospital and was getting outpatient care and therapy near his California home...learning how to use his new bionic features. He still has a long way ahead of him. Please have a look at the photo pages which include lots of photos of the Jake we know.

on the ballYes, the 1999 Pole doctor Jerri Nielsen Fitzgerald, who was medevaced from Pole at the end of that winter due to her serious breast cancer...succumbed to the disease on 23 June 2009. Here's the CNN story that broke the coverage, an obituary from the Boston Globe, a press statement from NSF director Arden Bement,, and coverage from the Antarctic Sun. Apparently the memorial service was still pending as of 6 July. Her photo at left was released by NSF in 1999. Here is my original 1999 coverage of her story, which I've updated with the missing press releases.

From 3-5 June 2009 I was at the Antarctic Deep Freeze Association reunion in Madison...a great time to get together with Antarcticans and Polies from 1956 to, well, today, yes we had a phone call with Pole, one of the featured events.

Hometown boy makes the papers...well, in this case it is Boulder native and 2009 winter site manager Logan Grover, who happened to get covered by the Boulder Daily Camera on 6 June. The reporter actually asked me for info. Anyway, here's the writeup.

News from McMurdo...for the second winter in a row, a significant outbuilding was lost to fire. This time it was the Kiwi A-Frame...a structure I remember from my happy camper course back in 1976. Here's a news story from the NZ Herald with a spectacular photo.

a rose isSadly, Dr. Matt Houseal, who wintered at Pole in 1991 fresh out of residency, was murdered in Baghdad on 11 May...leaving behind a beloved wife and 7 children. we Polies and Palmerites were represented at the funeral...Al Oxton provided commentary and photos, and Dave Gallas sent flowers remembering Matt's time at Palmer Station. Here's the coverage and photos... updated 25 May.

The demise of AMANDA was mistakenly reported here prematurely, but now we have the word...it was turned off at 1511 Monday 11 May, but not before she complained a bit during her final activity. At right, IceCube winterover Erik Verhagen offers a tribute. Now we'll see if we can keep MAPO and the machine shop warm and toasty for the rest of the winter. Up in the heavens, the auroras have been spectacular. I'm a few thousand miles away, but I strongly recommend you check out the amazing sky shots the winterovers are coming up with!

smileFrom Summit Camp on top of the Greenland icecap...where some Polie folks and friends go to work during the off season, comes an incredible story of how a 38-year-old equipment operator I know survived being lost outside in a storm and whiteout for 58 hours. Well...by now you may have figured it out...yes, it was the indubitable Jake Speed. Temperatures were reported as low as -44°F, with 45 knot winds. When things subsided a bit and a search party showed up in a Tucker Sno-Cat looking for signs of his body, to the great surprise of the searchers, Jake actually walked up to the vehicle and climbed in, asking if they were going back to the station anytime soon. A bit later his arrival at the Big House triggered a similar reaction. Here's the NSF press release...his discovery and rescue happened on 18 April. While his body temperature and smile (left) were normal, he was suffering from seriously spinning bladesfrostbitten hands and feet...he was initially medevaced to a hospital in Nuun, the capital of Greenland, and more recently went on to a hospital in California, with his wife. By now he's had lots of surgery, and he did lose his right hand plus both feet, but he is, after all, Jake. Here's hoping that all ends well for this guy!

Also in Madison on 16-17 April--the fifth annual Polar Technology Conference, hosted by IceCube. The meeting purpose was to discuss requirements and planning for polar research. It turned out to be a group of about 40, including yours truly. Bill Spindler was there to discuss such things as the research planning that went into the development of the three permanent stations at Pole, and other such stuff...as well as meeting some other Antarcticans that I haven't seen in awhile. Much of the focus was on power and communications--we're talking something like a few watts of power and a few seconds of connectivity to Iridium, to enable remote data collection sites to operate and stay in touch...along with appropriate computer equipment and software. Since these use alternative energy, my talk included the slightly larger (3KW) wind turbine project at Pole (right) back in 1997. Here is the conference web site. It includes a link to the lists of the participants for this year and the previous years, and the presentations are posted as well.

Yet another of those diplomatic games that sometimes resembles a sporting event, the Antarctic Treaty consultative meeting, otherwise known as ATCM XXXII, took place in Baltimore between 6 and 17 April 2009, complete with a presentation by Secretary of State Hillary Clinton. The major result of this year's meeting was an agreement to regulate cruise ship tourism. These days these meetings happen annually; last year's meeting was in the Ukraine. America hasn't been the venue since 1984, when the meeting was held in Washington, DC. I've been through some of the reports and resolutions on the official Antarctic Treaty System (ATS) site and haven't found anything earth-shattering, but I may have missed something. The meeting was subtitled "50 years of Peace and Science." In addition to the smoke-free meeting rooms, a number of public events started the weekend before the official meeting--here's the NSF press release announcing the meeting and the events.

climb in

Remembering the old days...something not to be missed is the collection I call The 1974 Negatives...a unique glimpse of life at Pole 35 years ago this winter. mind the stepThe photo at left shows the last version of the main entrance to the original station...still decorated with some commemorative photographs and other items that can be found in the elevated station today (the black item between the two photos of Amundsen and Scott is that marble plaque that was presented to the station on the 50th anniversary of the arrival of these two gentlemen). Anyway, this gallery contains almost 100 pictures from the last winter of the original station now known as Old Pole. Somewhat approprate to mention here perhaps, since the entrance you see here that used to be on the surface has gradually gotten buried. At some point in the 1990's an extension was put on the top of this vestibule--one of those corrugated steel pipe sections with a ladder inside (which had originally been furnished to extend the Dome emergency escape hatch). The top of this ladder used to be on the surface about 10 years ago...but it has gotten pretty deeply buried...so during the week before sunset NSF decided it was time to dig up the entrance and remove that access ladder...it was yanked out with the D7 (right, common drive photo).

Five years later was 1979, the fifth winter in what we called the new station otherwise known as the dome. This year was fairly well documented by one of the NOAA winterovers, John Bortniak. John supplied a number of photographs to the NOAA photo library, a few of which I have used elswhere on this web site, and he also helped me with other information about his winter. In March John presented an IPY/NOAA lecture/webcast as part of IPY entitled "Recollections on Wintering Over at the South Pole 1979" reflecting on the event of 30 years ago. Here is the link to the presentation, which includes a PDF file as well as audio/video podcasts. And here is a photo that John used in his talk--he is at the bottom of the Holy Stairs...some 30+ feet below the floor level of the vestibule in the left hand photo...down at the original snow surface level where the IGY station was constructed.

hooked up at Pole

The bids for the next Antarctic support contract were due on 23 February 2009...so the real backroom bidding, arm twisting, negotiating, and "best and final" offering began...and is still underway in 2010. Not a small process, since the winning effort isn't scheduled to be announced for another 6 months or so. In the meantime, our current contractor Raytheon is cranking up to hire next year's crew...all of the jobs were uploaded to Rayjobs at the beginning of March, and some of these have already been oversubscribed. The link to the jobs page is available on this RPSC site. For whatever reason, the Denver people have decided not to have a main job fair this year, as the hiring climate continues to change. If you're new to the process or even if not, I'm NYANG, fly meI recommend you poke around on the Antarctic Memories message board to see what others have to say. Down on the ice, the last flight out of McMurdo did so on 22 February...unlike last season there is no "late flight" this year. And at Pole, in addition to all of the station closing and winterizing tasks, work continued through mid March to put the gunmetal grey cladding on the roof. At left you can see William Stiner (left) and Todd Adams working away on top of A1. This photo is only a small part of the panorama Ella Derbyshire took on 27 February (check out the big version!), she reports that it was -52°F with 9 knots, giving a wind chill in the -80s. Brr. But a nice view!



couch potatoes


Closing time...well, I have to use the title of that Semisonic tune that closed out the final concert of the winter 2008 band last November. 16 February was the day. After a final couple of flights, including the last one (right, photo by Erik Shirokoff from the USAP photo library) the station became home to 43 winterovers...which by coincidence is exactly HALF the size of the 2005 winter crew. The last week all eyes had been on the scroll as the temperature slowly crept down toward the -58°F/-50°C mark which keeps the aircraft away (Steff Richter's weather page). As of 14 February the population was already down in the 40s, with a few folks still to leave and a few folks still to arrive (!). The winter crew--lots of new faces, and only about 4 folks who have previously wintered...and no Bill Spindler this time. At left is a photo from Jude Gregan of a station gathering on the first Saturday evening of winter (21 February)...astute Polies will note that the couch in the foreground contains 3 of the 4 repeating 2008 winterovers on station this year.

all decked outsmall ballIt seems that due to some sort of mixup, there was a shortage of fresh eggs during the 2009 winter...by the beginning of May the last one was gone. Gulp. But elsewhere, the design team passed judgment on the Logistics Facility...conditional occupancy should allow the cargoids to start thinking about moving in eventually...they would do so during the 2010 winter. The back deck didn't count in that review, but it is about done as well. What a couple of months ago was the empty arch was being turned into a real back deck as seen in the mid-January view at left from Dave Smith...and there is siding on the LO facility....Snowcrete was put in for the front deck and it was completed along with rework of the bulkhead and doors. Turns out the back deck required snowcrete as well. Elsewhwere out back, the structure for the SPTR-2 satellite antenna was completed in time for antenna installation and testing, that's what that thing is in the right photo by IT manager Gary Ferentchak from 5 January (USAP photo library); I have more construction photos here. This dome and antenna look suspiciously similar to the ones at Palmer Station--hopefully they'll deal with the demise of the ancient satellites currently in use. Across the runway, IceCube completed all 19 planned strings early, with the last hole drilled on 21 January and the string deployed shortly afterward. The team cleaned up, tested and winterized before leaving things to the winterovers. Oh by the way, on the way out they yanked out a bunch of AMANDA equipment on 3 February, but contrary to what had been reported, the project would continue to run for 3 more months. Read the status updates here; the last summer report for 2009-10 was put up on 10 February.

present swords

Jerry Marty, the longtime NSF construction manager for the new elevated station, headed north for the last time shortly before Christmas 2008, and when he departed the station he was saluted not with crossed swords but with crossed measuring tapes (right, IceCube photo by Mark Krasberg). On 11 February 2009 he presented the lecture "Building for Science at the South Pole" at the University of Delaware. The presentation was visible not only live and as a webcast, but also in the virtual world Second Life (!). Oh, and it was also saved as a podcast so you can listen at any time...(full story, photos and podcast link).

Up north, the Antarctic contract bidders were going through the final number crunching before the bids were due on 23 February...they already had to submit bunches and bunches of backup data last month (contract links and historical information).

hitch a rideThe "Race to the Pole" happened, well actually all of them. In the event of that name, the Amundsen Omega 3 South Pole Race, seven 3-person teams competed over a 500-mile course, setting off on 5 January...six teams made it to Pole although only 5 finished officially. As happened 97 years ago, a Norwegian team, Team Missing Link finished first and a British team, QinetiQ, came in second. It seems that he Norwegian-American Scientific Traverse crossed paths with them in the Discovery Lakes area on 6 January (photo at left by Ole Tveiten; blog entry here). These vehicles were carrying film crews and medical support staff. Note that the tire pressure was only 2.5 psi!

NGA American solo skiier Todd Carmichael tried to set a speed record from Hercules Inlet...after 39 days of travel he made it on 22 December. The previous record was 40 days, but his record didn't last long. The 3-man team Richard Weber, Ray Zahab and Kevin Vallely got a later start and beat his record, arriving on 8 January with a record time of 33 days, 23-1/2 hours. More info on these and other ventures is elsewhere on this page. By now everyone who was going to show up had showed up, including the three Shackleton descendents that arrived from Ross Island via the Beardmore at 2200 on Sunday 18 January. The other portion of the team that was doing the "last 97 miles" was a few days behind. Another visitor was Monaco's Prince Albert and party, who joined Mike Horn's team at 88°51' S--they all left that trek campsite and flew close to Pole, where they all spent 2 days walking 22km to Pole, getting the Prince there at 0847 on the 14th. Mike, Børge Ousland and two others then flew back to the campsite to finish the longer walk to the Pole. Patriot Hills closed on the 28th. As for the real reason for the station, the Antarctic Sun recently published an excellent article "Field of Dreams" referring to the science projects that are being attracted there.

a Polie platformBack during high summer, the photo at left was a sign that one of the more visible construction projects proceeded--the scaffold that hung off the back of A4 all winter was moved to the next position as the siding installation resumed (photo by Andy Martinez/USAP photo library). The siding installation was pretty much completed on the walls; some work is scheduled for the winter to start on the roof panels. Over at DSL, the 3-year BICEP project was officially decommissioned in December...a bit of a sad time for some good people I know. SPT guy Brad Benson documented the 9 December farewell party in this blog entry. Meanwhile some 800+ miles north, another interesting and highly visible project was underway uphill from Scott Base, the "wind farm" (right, conceptual photo). There were to be be 3 330 KW machines set up near Crater Hill, and a grid intertie between them, Scott Base and McM. This estimated to reduce fuel consumption by 11%. stick em upThe foundations and site work were happening in the 2008-09 summer; work continued through the winter and the turbines themselves were erected and commissioned in 2009-10. This project was being spearheaded by the NZ program, although the USAP did some of the site work and equipment movement. Here's an Antarctic Sun article...and more information from the NZ/Australian contractor Meridian Energy, to which the above right photo is credited. Also of interest to construction folks like me was this newspaper ad from the 15 December Dominion Post newspaper (Wellington NZ) looking for people to work on the project during the 2009 winter.

Traverse updates...there have been 2 science traverses involved with the the station--one of these is of course ths "South Pole Traverse" which left McMurdo on 23 October on what was to be the first of 2 round trips. But...the "shear zone" on the Ross Ice Shelf was a bit worse than expected and during one period while blasting and filling cracks and crevasses they only made 20 miles in 9 days. They had been scheduled to reach Pole around 6 December... they actually pulled in on the 16th. They left the coast with seven tractors here's one of them in a photo by Ted Scambos of the Norwegian-American traverse. patch me inThe tractors pulling, among other things, about 60 3,000 gallon fuel bladders on plastic sleds (photo near Ross Island by Robyn Waserman from the USAP photo library). Some of this fuel is for the traverse use and some to supply Pole. The traverse was scheduled to continue on to AGAP, but that leg was cancelled. The AGAP project finally got underway in full swing in late December, but the project teams figure they are about 2 weeks behind schedule (AGAP project page with news updates). AGAP is an international project to study the snow-covered Gamburtsev Mountains from the ground and from the air--this mountain range is COMPLETELY snow covered. chute the worksThe AGAP South camp was initially established by USAP last summer, the AGAP North camp was being operated by the British Antarctic Survey (BAS) and the Australian Antarctic Division (AAD). A third "camp" was operated at Pole to serve as a site for high altitude acclimatization. The AGAP South camp received C-17 fuel airdrops. As of 20 December the North camp north of Dome A was set up, the first survey flights had been made by the specially equipped BAS Twin Otter. The team figured they were 15 days behind schedule, but they still completed about 50 survey flights, with the final ones on 10 January. They spent the following week demobilizing the camp before a scheduled departure date on the 17th. The AGAP North blogs are here from the BAS and the AAD. And speaking of airdrops, the C-17 also did one at Pole on the evening of 6 December (left, photo by Hermann Kolanoski of IceCube. The Chinese team that has been building the new Kunlun Station at Dome A (CCTV news article) hauled out the trash and crushed empty fuel drums when they returned to the coast in February. By the way, the new Chinese station is rather impressive considering it was set up from scratch in such a remote station, by only one traverse team and no air support. Check out what it looks like (Peoples Daily news article with a construction photo). Winter use is planned within a few years.

And then there is the second half of the Norwegian-American Scientific Traverse which staged out of Pole to go rebuild and repair their tractors that had been left at "Camp Winter" after 2 of the 4 tractors broke down. Some of the crew made it to the camp site, studied the snow and fixed/serviced the equipment, but their start was also delayed due to weather and poor landing conditions for the Basler at the camp. They packed up the camp and headed for Pole, arriving on 11 December. I met some of these folks at Pole before I left. Now the final traverse team of 12 assembled at Pole, prepared the equipment and supplies for the drive north to Troll, and headed out on the 22nd. As of mid February they were at their last research stop.

Yes, the bidders DID make it to the ice for their job walk, although their travel got delayed a day. They flew to the ice on Tuesday, 18 November and had a few hours at Pole the next day. I spoke with a couple of them in Christchurch. Here's my page of historical information and links relating to the contract bidding process...

What went on this summer at Pole? In addition to landscaping and other usual stuff, the logistics facility (LO) should be completed this summer, including the rest of the work on the building, exterior ductwork, permanent power and heating supply, and the "front deck" between the downwind end of the building and the door/bulkhead. The bulkhead is being removed to allow for equipment access and to rework the door so it will swing inward over the rollers and ball conveyor system. Outside, the SPTR-2 project (photo below left) will continue to expand and complete the platform as well as to install the antenna, radome, and electronics shelter. The fuel storage pumphouse will get expanded by moving out two walls, and the aircraft fueling module (AFM) will be assembled. Siding work will continue on the back side of the station, IceCube will get a new CO2 fire system in the server room, and on the science side, IceCube originally planned to do 16 holes/strings, with a "stretch goal" of 19.

Elsewhere in science, the 3-year BICEP telescope project in DSL wound down in November; the instrumentation was removed and shipped north. Coming next, perhaps in a year, is "BICEP 2" in the same location, along with "SPUD" on the former QUAD/DASI mount at MAPO. Here's an recent abstract which briefly describes these 2 projects. SPUD, also known as the Keck Array, recently was awarded a large grant from the Keck Foundation (press release). And on the other side of MAPO, a the old VIPER control room was to be fitted out to control the reactivated VLF antenna located west of the dark sector buildings.

no skiing this time

Air transport news...a Bombardier Global Express business jet operated by TAG Aviation left Farnborough Airport in England at 2305 Pole time on Friday 21 November 2008 in a quest for a new 50-hour round-the-world over-the-poles record. After crossing the North Pole, it refueled at Whitehorse (Yukon, Canada), Majuro in the Marshall Islands, and Christchurch (0036 Sunday, Channel 3 news story), and passed over Pole later that day in the 11-hour flight to the next refueling stop in PA. The last stop was at Sal, Cape Verde. They ultimately completed the the effort by returning to Farnborough in 52 hours and 32 minutes. There were 8 on board, including 5 pilots, flight engineer, in-flight coordinator, and an observer from Fédération Aéronautique Internationale (FAI) which ratified the world record on 23 March 2009. The previous over-the-poles record of 54:07 had been set by a Pan Am 747SP aircraft back on 28-31 October 1977. Oh, also, the specially modified 109th ANG completed the installation of new 8-bladed propellers on the first LC-130--Skier 92 to be exact. The first operational flight was on 16 September 2008...the new props reduce noise and vibration and may reduce fuel consumption by at least 5 percent. The aircraft was spotted in ChCh on 16 November and was expected at Pole the following week. Here's a copy of a Hamilton Sundstrand press release; the photo at right is courtesy of TSgt Derrick Irish; also here is an earlier Antarctic Sun article.

shooting the Pole

And back in October a few days before the first flight landed, we had an overflight by an FAA Challenger 601 inspection aircraft--basically a business jet--to certify the navigational aids of the skiway, which at the time was in the process was being relocated. The result is the photo at left...here's more information and links to a couple of other news stories.

The accident at Australia's Davis Station (on the coast directly south of Perth) was in the news, as a NYANG LC-130 medevac mission headed there from McM the evening of 4 November, arriving about 0200 SP time on the 5th after a 4-1/2 hour flight. The aircraft, with a medical team on board stayed on deck overnight and then successfully flew the patient the 1500 miles to Hobart, arriving early on the 6th SP time (NSF press release and AAD press release). The story--the Davis w/o cook, 31-year-old Dwayne Rooke of Tasmania, fell off a quad bike on a field trip 15 miles from the base, breaking his pelvis and both ankles. He was in serious but stable condition as he waited for...the icebreaker Aurora Australis, which was diverted from its course to Casey and headed for Davis. A second doctor and other assistants were flown to Davis by helo from the ship on 1 November when the ship got in range and the weather improved Here's an earlier 1 November AAD news release. At that time the plans were to fly him back to the icebreaker when weather improved again. (my coverage with photos).

The events of 2008-09...
 
The Amundsen Omega 3 South Pole Race
was another competition (well, I do call this the "Sports" section) that picked up a lot of interest. In the spirit perhaps of Kim Stanley Robinson's Antarctica it was a real life challenge--a 480-mile race supported from Cape Town and staged south of Novo (south of what is left of the Filchner Ice Shelf,) in 2 legs, by 3-person teams. All equipment was provided, as well as some training events in the months before the race. Only £42,300 per person. This event was originally planned for 2002-2003, but this time it really happened. The event was scheduled to start 1 January and actually started on the 4th. While there were 7 teams signed up (all but one from the UK), six actually started and 5 officially finished. And if running wasn't your bag, you could have joined an SUV caravan in one of the four pace/safety vehicles (specially prepped by Arctic Trucks of Iceland), which headed back from Pole to Novo after the race. Only £55,000 for that venture...how's the economy treating you? Anyway...Ben Fogle, James Cracknell and Ed Coats were among the first Brits to announce their participation in said Race. James is an Olympic gold medalist in rowing, and the pair came in first for pairs/third overall in the 2005-06 Atlantic Rowing Race, 2931 miles from the Canary Islands to Antigua. They were Team QinetiQ. The winning team was the Norwegian one, Team Missing Link...they reached Pole on 22 January with a time of 17 days, 8 hours, and 58 minutes. The other teams in order of finish were QinetiQ, Danske Bank, Due South, and South Pole Flag, which included blind member Mark Pollock. Team Southern Lights also finished but not officially as they received assistance from the race support team.
Mark Langridge
from Wales, was up for a solo unsupported round trip from Hercules Inlet...on 10 November he finally got underway, after the delays due to aircraft mechanical problems in PA and high crosswinds at PH. He was one of several travelers planning a speed attempt...but at the end of November he realized he wasn't going fast enough and decided to abandon his planned return leg. After 49 days of travel he arrived on the morning of 30 December, making him reportedly the 8th person to travel solo unsupported to Pole.
Richard Weber, Ray Zahab and Kevin Vallely,
are 3 Canadians who make up the South Pole Quest expedition. Richard is a veteran Arctic explorer, and Ray and Kevin are extreme long-distance runners--thus this was to be another speed attempt from Hercules Inlet--perhaps 35 days. They planned to start later in November than other teams, hoping for better weather. They reached PH on 29 November and planned about a week of training before setting out from Hercules Inlet on about the 4th...reaching Pole on 8 January for a record time of 33 days, 23 hours and 30 minutes.
The British South Pole Expedition 2008
is Gavin Booth and Adam Wilton, both in their 30s. They were underway with an unsupported, unresupplied trip from Hercules Inlet to Pole. They too started on 11 November; they crossed 82°S on the 25th...and reached Pole in the evening of 27 December, taking 45 days.
An ALE/Northwinds guided trip
led by veteran Sarah McNair-Landry of Northwinds, included Canadian cancer survivor Tom Davenport, Australian Steven Gates, New Zealander Ross Maxwell, and Norwegian Kari Gundeso. They plan a round trip from Hercules Inlet using kites, without resupply. They flew to PH on 10 November and got started the following day. The group reached Pole just after midnight on 3 January SP time after a 53-day trip. Afterward Sarah and Tom kited back to PH, heading north on 7 January and reaching PH on the 19th.
A second ALE guided trip...
...used the Messner route (which he and Fuchs pioneered in 1989-90) starting from the Ronne Ice Shelf at 82°10'S-65°W. They were guided by Eric Larsen; the five others include Daragh Horgan from Ireland, Australian doctor Jill Maxwell, and Londoners Doug Oppenheim and Jeremy Rogers. They flew to PH on 21 November and to the starting point the next day. At the beginning of December Jill decided to abandon the effort and was flown back to PH. The rest of the team completed their journey on 4 January. After reaching Pole, Jeremy kited back to PH along with Norwegian guide Ronny Finsaas (Ronny is a chef at PH). The return took 10 days, they arrived on the 15th.
Happy Feet
are 5 Norwegians who attempted a 900km trip to Pole from the Ronne Ice Shelf. The venture was put together by Hvitserk, a Norwegian company. They were led by Christian Eide, the other members of the "Happy Feet" are Rune Midgaard, Mads Agrup, Morten Andvig and Jørgen von Tangen. They left PA for the ice on 20 November and started traveling south on the 22nd, but Jørgen ended up in pain and required evacuation. The rest of the group returned to the starting point on 3 December and began again, reaching Pole on 27 December.
Chus Lago
a Spanish woman (and movie star) who was 44 in December, undertook a solo unsupported trip from Hercules Inlet known as the "Caixanova Expedition." She too started on the 11th and was held up by the intense windstorm that buffeted the teams near PH on 15 November. She was the only solo woman on the ice this year, and wanted to be the first Spanish woman to ski to Pole (Spanish language site). She successfully reached Pole on 8 January, but not before running out of food and getting a resupply.
Julio Fiadi
the Brazilian, was again going to try taking his "polar capsule" from Hercules Inlet to Pole, this time alone and with one resupply (Portuguese language site). But I haven't found any info that says he actually did it (and I can't read Portuguese, sorry).
Todd Carmichael
after failing to get past 84°S last year, tried what he'd hoped would the first American completely solo unsupported trip from Hercules Inlet, to Pole, to "properly plant the American flag at the heart of Antarctica" as he said. He headed south to PH on the 10th and got started from Hercules Inlet on 11 November. He was also shooting for a fast time of less than 40 days, and he made that...on the 22nd and briefly held the record...according to thepoles.com he made it in 39 days, 7 hours and 49 minutes, beating Hannah McKeand's time of 39 days, 9 hours and 33 minutes in 2006-07. His ski bindings broke early in the trip and he had to walk most of the way...he was a bit exhausted when he reached Pole.
Extreme South
is Robert Conway, a Type I diabetic who plans to be the first diabetic on insulin to reach Pole unsupported, and Toby Williams, another medical student from St. George's Hospital in SW London (a third team member, Doug Orr, backed out in 2006). Their previously planned trip to recreate part of the Scott/Shackleton route was been postponed until 2008-9 for financial reasons. Now they are doctors and there is nothing recent on their site to indicate they are still heading south anytime soon. They'd planned to use kites to help the otherwise unsupported trip from the top of the Beardmore to Pole and thence to Patriot Hills.
Alastair Humphries
the British round-the-world cyclist who competed in the Marathon des Sables earlier this year, has announced an 1800-mile round-trip from Berkner Island to Pole, along with Ben Saunders, now planned for October 2009.
South Pole without Limits
is a Spanish team of Jesús Noriega, Xavier Valbuena and Eric Villalón, guided by Ramón Larramendi and Ignacio Oficialdegui. This group has special challenges (an Explorersweb feature perhaps behind a paywall)--one member without a hand, another who lost a leg, and a third with only 5% sight. They completed a 125 mile trip and reached Pole on 20 January 2009. The expedition link has been taken down, but here is a brief YouTube video (in Spanish) about their trip.
Doug Stoup's venture. They did a "last 2 degree" trip, arriving at Pole on 20 January.
this year is leading Team South: Fred Losani, Steve Stipsits, Mark MacLennan, and Peter Turk on a "last degree" trip (well, 100 miles) starting at 88.26°S on 4 December. They actually started on the 7th, but Mark suffered frostbite to his hands after having his gloves off for too long, and was medevaced to PH on the 12th. The rest of the team reached Pole on 16 December SP time.
Another Last Degree group, Southpole09
guided by Alan Chambers, included Kevin Gaskell, Matt Gaskell, John Harrison, Pete Lowrie, Andrew May, and Angelo Speranza, They started on 5 January and finished on the 14th. Kevin (50) and Matt (18) are father and son...but no, Matt isn't the youngest to do this, and this isn't the first father/son team.
Pôle Nord – Pôle Sud (French language site)
is Frenchman Charles Hedrich's next adventure, planned for 2009, when he hopes to leave the North Pole on skis in February and (after using various means of transport) arrive at our striped South Pole 10 months later. In 2007-08 Charles tried for a speed record to Pole but had to abandon the trip for medical reasons...
PolarExplorers/ Northwest Passage
did a "last degree" trip--well, they actually started on 10 January at 89°20'S because of overcast conditions at 89°S. They reached Pole on the 14th. They consisted of American Mike Strong, Maud Oortwijn from the Netherlands, Andrzej Wojda of Poland, and Brit Peter Lemon. They were guided by American Keith Heger. Immediately after flying back to PH, everyone but Mike caught another flight and headed off to try to climb Mt. Vinson (they were unable to summit).
Kari Poppis Suomela and Pasi Ikonen
proposed the first Finnish trek to Pole, a 2008 unsupported venture from Hercules Inlet. Poppis was part of the Finnish expedition to the North Pole in 2006, and Pasi was part of a Greenland ski crossing the same year. They too started walking from Hercules Inlet on the 11th. And they made it to Pole on Christmas Day SP time...making Poppis the 12th person to reach both poles unsupported.
Teemu Lakkasuo
another Finn, was trying his own unsupported/unassisted solo ski trip from Hercules Inlet to Pole...he too flew south on 10 November, he officially started his trek from Hercules Inlet on the 12th, but was slowed first by a stubborn case of flu, and then by a leg injury in a fall...perhaps a fracture. He was evacuated to PH but was contemplating going on...he returned to the ice to do a "last degree" venture, getting dropped off around 11 December and arriving at Pole on 16 December SP time.
The Moon Regan Transantarctic Expedition
is a rather unusual venture planned to include not one but two of those tricked Ford 6-wheel-drive vans as well as a "Concept Ice Vehicle"--a 3-ski propeller-driven lightweight vehicle developed by Lotus. The team includes Andrew Regan and Andrew Moon (who first visited Pole by van from PH in 2005 Wikipedia article), as well as designer Jason de Carteret. They plan to start from the Ronne Ice Shelf, head to Pole, and then cut through the Transantarctic Mountains and cross the Ross Ice Shelf to McMurdo. When? The web site doesn't say, although they originally announced the venture for 2007-08, and it certainly hasn't happened yet. While the project received some New York Times coverage in February, there still no date on their web site.
The Matrix Shackleton Centenary Expedition
was proposed by Henry Worsley, Will Gow and Henry Adams--descendents of members of the Nimrod Expedition that got within 97 miles of Pole in 1908-09. The three men are duplicating the original route from Shackleton's hut at Cape Royds, getting there on a flight from Patriot Hills. On Friday 14 November they set out from the hut toward Pole via the Beardmore Glacier. They reached Shackleton's farthest south, 88°23'S-162°E, on 9 January, the centenary day of the original achievement. At that point they were joined by Shackleton's great-grandson Patrick Bergel, Jameson Boyd Adams' great-grandson David Cornell, and Frank Wild's great-great-nephew Tim Fright for the last 97 miles to Pole. Henry, Will and Henry reached Pole on the 18th, and the 97-mile group arrived a day later. The Ross Island team carried Shackleton's original compass...and solar panels to recharge IPods and other electronic devices. The group also had plans to duplicate the 1908 first ascent of Mt. Erebus but they arrived on Ross Island late and there wasn't time for that. This was a one-way trip, the group was flown back to PH from Pole.
Mike Horn
the South African who was one of a 2-man trek to the North Pole this past boreal winter, has announced the Pangea Expedition--a 3+ year pole-to-pole expedition named after his new 35m aluminum yacht to carry him part of the way. First stage was to be a 9 October sailing from PA to the Antarctic, from where he was to trek to Pole. He was in fact dropped off near Adelaide Island on 10 November but was unable to find a good landing spot. So he reboarded the yacht and went back to PA. He later flew south with ALE around 27 November to begin his Pole trip in the more usual way, starting from HE on 1 December and reached Pole on 19 January. He had been joined on 11 January at 88°42'S by Børge Ousland, Clémence Cadario and Nicolas Valdivieso, the latter two folks being selected from Mike's Young Explorers Programme...and a day later they were joined by Prince Albert and his team of 8. They all flew close to Pole and walked the final 22km, arriving on the 14th...then Mike, Borge, Clémence and Nicolas flew back to their campsite to complete the main trek, arriving back at Pole on the 18th. Mike then started kiting back north. But not fast enough...as the ALE season was ending, he was the last NGA traveler still out...he was picked up at 86°34'S on the 28th.
Postponed! The Last Great Challenge
is the English businessman John Wilton-Davies' next proposed venture--a planned unsupported round trip in 77 days from Hercules Inlet. John previously tried to reach Pole in 2006-07 but was delayed by weather and problems with a crevasse field, and had to abort his venture when the ALE airlift support season ended. This time he hopes to do the return trip in 77 days. He was having trouble finding a sponsor in time for a 2008-09 venture, he now has postponed it until 2009-10.
Postponed! The Bear Dodgers
is Aussie Cynan Rhodes, Englishman Charlie Hunter, and Irishman David O'Brien, who planned a round trip from PH (manhauling south, kiting back north, otherwise unsupported). But...in the current financial climate they found it impossible to come up with the £30,000 each needed for the trip. So they may try next season.
Postponed! Robert Knight
an Australian who reached the North Pole in 2007, had planned a solo unsupported trip from Hercules Inlet but he found the financial crevasses too daunting...he has postponed his planned departure until November 2009.

Well, by 6 November 2008 we were supposed to have had about 7 Basler flights bring in folks to raise the population to about 170 people...but no...bad weather has kept them all away until that day, when a Basler along with two LC-130s finally arrived, to bring new people and take a third of the winterovers away. What bad weather, we said as we walked outside and look at the crisp new skiway under light winds and surprisingly warm temperatures? Well, all I can say is that the pilots needed better visibility for the first landings than they do later in the season. Oh, and at least a couple of the cancellations were based on bad weather at McM, or at least fear of it (!). So the SP population has finally moved into 3 digits after being stuck at 91 for over a week.

where's marker 7?

At least some of the postulating and posturing over who comes in and who goes out on what flight is based on on the plan for one final winter band concert, the "red headed stepchild of Polestock" to be scheduled some time after some new people get here and before any of the band members leave. Hmmm. Yours truly wasn't scheduled to leave until the 13th.

Aircraft may not have been showing up at Pole the fourth week of October, but they were landing elsewhere on the continent. The first NGA ground travelers to Pole landed at the Russian NOVO blue ice runway south of Cape Town, and the first passenger flights to PH were scheduled the first week in November.

The 2008 winter ended slowly. The first "soft opening" Basler flight landed on Sunday 26 October (left) bringing 17 new people, more freshies, flu vaccine for us winterovers, absentee ballots, and similar high priority stuff. This aircraft can't carry all that much cargo, so all of the early arrivals have to live out of their handcarry until the 130's can bring in the rest of their baggage. We did have the station suitably cleaned up and decked out for the new arrivals (!). Another flight showed up a day later with another 17 people, and several more were to arrive later in the week...but did not. There were 3 outgoing passengers on the first flight, but no, this was not a "flight of shame" as some of you might be wondering--one grantee got approval for an early departure, one RPSC employee has an urgent dental appointment in McM and will finish his contract there...and a third guy has to hurry home and see family and do all the other stuff before returning to the ice for a winter contract at the beginning of January. Yes...a good winter.

fly me

More airplanes...the C-17 flights to McM that were backed up for a week at the end of September have gotten pretty much back to normal. As for our "real" first flights, the Basler, along with a Twin Otter, were scheduled to cross the Drake from PA to Rothera on Monday the 20th...pass through Pole on the 21st, and then start bringing summer folks in on the 23rd. They finally made it Friday SP time (right, my hero shot by Kevin Torphy)...the Basler quickly headed for McM after trading some fuel for a box of freshies (YUM!) while the Twin Otter crew stayed overnight. Saturday the first Basler passenger flight from McM was cancelled due to bad weather at McM. Here at Pole the skiway was ready, or at least half of it...in preparations for moving it south, the marker flags at the north end have been removed, rearranged, and moved yet again...the first flights brought in some surveyors who know where they really are supposed to go, and lay out the rest of the skiway.

a new platform for?

Further up in the air (where the communications satellites live) we got word that one of the three communications satellites used here, MARISAT-F2, which until the last week of our 2009 winter was the oldest commercial communications satellite still in service, got a bit shaky in its orbit, and the owner (INTELSAT) needed to decommission and de-orbit after 29 November--something we didn't think would affect us winterovers (Antarctic Sun news story). That cut our ~11 hour satellite window by 2 hours...and is only a preview to what may come next when the other 2 aging satellites suffer a similar fate. At left is the first phase of the next big thing--part one of the "SPTR-2" antenna platform which was put up in February out near RF. It is to be completed this summer--complete with a dish, antenna shelter and an 8-meter radome. In theory this will allow access to a number of different TDRSS satellites for short windows as they briefly pop over the horizon...assuming a healthy set of jackscrews to keep the dish moving in our cool temperatures.

A couple of other serious disasters hampered national programs in other parts of the continent in October 2008... There was the serious fire on 5 October that burned down the main 2-story berthing building at Russia's Progress Station, leaving 2 seriously injured and one dead. The station is on the coast, about 70 miles west of Australia's Davis Station on the east side of the continent, and only a mile from a Chinese base where medical help was obtained. Other station buildings including the power plant and galley were not affected. Here's an iol.co.za news story, and an excellent Antarctic Sun article. And elsewhere, The medevac of 49-year-old mechanic Sigurd Sande from Norway's Troll Station was successful--15 days after he broke his leg on 3 October while near the top of a 2000m peak. The other folks at the base--72°S-2.5°E and 150 miles from the coast, prepared things for a medevac flight to Cape Town, but the first attempt on the 10th was aborted due to bad weather. The flight in a Gulfstream GIIB business jet took about six hours, 2700 miles each way. His original rescue from the mountain to the station is a fairly dramatic story as well. Here's good coverage from fellow 2008 winterover Steffen Richter, and a good blog entry.

Pole popupSunrise was celebrated the weekend of 20-21 September...although the actual sun itself played rather scarce. There was been a fair amount of blowing and drifting that obscured the horizon and the low sun. Still, folks spent some time in the galley watching it through the windows Sunday evening the 21st, when I caught the first glimpse of it out of my room window (left). The weekend featured a family style turkey (and lots of other stuff) dinner around one big table in the galley...as well as a blowout "Mother of Polestock" concert Saturday evening (right). the big oneMeanwhile, the optimistic early season flight schedule for folks arriving on the first flights (starting with seven Basler flights beginning 23 October) was posted, although of course that never happened. As for the skiway, the markers on the upwind half were removed in preparation for the shift of the skiway about 5000 feet south, towards the tailless remains of the buried 917 aircraft.

A bit of McMurdo news floated around the wires...the beginning of September saw the conclusion to "Operation Spring Fly" or what goes for winfly this season. It consisted of 4 C-17 flights into the Pegasus runway--three southbound flights with passengers and one with cargo only, and while the last scheduled flight on the 10th was designated a "medevac" (Air Force news article), it really involved an ambulatory patient who just needed a bit more evaluation than was available on the ice. A related news story...after the end of the scheduled missions they did a fifth "training" flight that landed in the dark just before midnight on the 11th. This was credited with being the first Antarctic landing by a pilot using night vision goggles (Stuff.co.nz article) but we all know it wasn't the first night landing...for example there was the Byrd Station medevac in 1961 and the Pole medevac in 2001...coincidentally we watched videos of that event Friday night.

About the time it gets light enough outside to uncover the windows, it also becomes time for the NOAA team to uncover what might happen to the ozone hole. The World Meteorological Organization has predicted a "normal ozone hole" this year, whatever that is. The results of the ozonesonde measurements are posted on the wall of the galley, but if you're not at Pole you can follow them here .

At the beginning of September 2008 we celebrated Labor Day weekend--two whole days off, and events which included an art show, open mike night, farmer's market (ie pick your own dinner out of the growth chamber), miniature golf, and, well, lots of sleep. Another day we noted was 28 September...that is the latest day in history that the weather reached -300° here. We didn't make it...only the second year in recorded history, the other year was 1964.

One other bit of news...it seems that our power plant supervisor wasn't the only person with crutches...yours truly had his knee start complaining from 30 years of running--it basically swelled up and let me know it didn't want to be walked upon. Anyway, after some treatment and several weeks of crutches and canes it seems to be improving and I've been walking without assistance...still a bit slowly, but hopefully a move in the right direction.

Back in July 2008 we had a recurring winter problem with the GOES/MARISAT antenna...some of the drive system quit working. After some intrepid disassembly, diagnosis and rework by the garage folks, UT's, and satcom enginner, the elevation worm drive was put back together and should function to give us our full 11+ hours of daily internet connectivity for the rest of the winter. The Antarctic Sun has an excellent feature article here. Recent efforts have gone into upgrading the insulation and heating to keep the drives warm and toasty, as it were. I'll spare you the gory gearbox pictures!

son of PolestockMuch of the other July/August USAP news came from Denver and other points north--it seems that the price of fuel among other things has prompted some fairly serious budget cuts. What is their impact on the program? Well, science cruises on the Peninsula side have been cut back or cancelled; the "annual ice runway" will not exist this year; "Winfly" has been shortened and moved back into early September 2008, and as of now there will not be ANY winfly next season. NSF recently posted this 18 August open letter to researchers on the OPP web site--it further addresses and lists the budget impacts, which include delays in construction and dome demolition among other things. There have been changes in travel arrangements, cutbacks in projects, and shrinking of populations. One rumor (still not confirmed, since one never knows the real answer until after the last flight) is that the Pole population will be in the low 40s next winter. Stay tuned...meanwhile some of the flight details have been officially announced, subject to change, of course as Mother Antarctica and the weather gods always have the final say. Anyway, it seems that Pole is scheduled for another of those "soft openings" with 7 Basler flights bringing folks in (but not out) starting on 23 October. The first LC-130 flight is scheduled for 5 November. And in another interesting flight schedule twist, the late-season flight schedule to/from ChCh will include 4 Airbus 319 passenger flights. Certainly not the first civilian airliner flights into MacTown, but the first in awhile. deck the archesThese are a subcharter from the Australian program, and the charter airline Skytraders, which did a couple of test landings in McM last season.

Other news around this quiet part of the continent--one of the power plant folks--James, my neighbor just down the hall, broke his foot in August 2008 in what must have been a fairly serious indoor soccer game in the gym--I was warned in advance and stayed away. And work went on in and around the "LO" that new cargo building that is taking shape in the old garage arch (above right, more current photos).

The 31st Antarctic Treaty Consultative Meeting was held in Kyiv (Kiev), Ukraine, between 2 and 13 June 2008. All of the stuff discussed is now online here on the official site, although the lists of meetings and agenda items are difficult to navigate. The 2007 meeting passed a measure "protecting" Pole as a Specially Managed Area. Here is a link to that adopted measure and maps if you drill down to XXXI ATCM and "meeting documents."

One of the more interesting Antarctic events happens every 10 years, and it started in late 2007, far from Pole in the environs of Washington DC. No, not another census or Polar Year, but...the 2-year process of rebidding the Antarctic support contract. The potential bidders started to posture and postulate over a year ago, but only in the (northern) spring of 2008 did the formal requests and announcements start to come out. Here is my look at this great decennial sporting event from a historical perspective (well, did you expect anything else from me?) Oh, just out...it looks like the next contract period may be 13 years rather than 10. And I do have links to the official contract information site, includings the list of registered potential bidders and detailed schedule. Oh, the bids are due on 23 February 2009.

Our Midwinters day weekend happened...demarking the time when the sun starts to move back towards our horizon...the time for a big dinner and the "Son of Polestock" musical blowout (above left, the main promo poster). Yes, a great weekend was had by all... the last 2-day weekend was in recognition of the Memorial Day holiday...although many folks here have job responsibilities over these weekend breaks. One such guy here is power plant tech Will Brubaker...but he did have time to post the details of our celebration. I didn't throw horseshoes or anything else, but I did enjoy the food and the nitrogen martinis. Thanks Will!

Warning, do NOT try this at Pole!As for Pole...things were actually going rether quietly...the logistics facility construction went well, in May 2008 we had our "Mass Casualty Drill" for the winter, where the scenario involved a fire and injuries in the garage, and thus with no vehicles available, yours truly got to help drag one of the "injured" parties up the hill to the station on a sled. Woof woof, as a friend might say. And we had an "egg oiling"--what's that you might say? Our fresh eggs come from New Zealand in boxes of 15 dozen...and they come coated in vegetable oil to preserve their freshness. But once or twice during the winter we need to dip them again to keep them fresh, and this activity is a great social event in the galley (left). My headgear was great fun and attracted several photographers...well, we have a sanitation rule that one must wear a hat when working in the kitchen...and since I came late, this was about the only one left. The photo and caption as it were are thanks to Steffen Richter!

street flyer That great musical event of April, Polestock (right) was an incredible success. A couple of my pictures are here along with the promo posters. But there's also a fresh Antarctic Sun article by our local correspondent Jeff King, as well as coverage from Heidi, Tim, and Dana.

17 April brought an unusual ice event north of here--the end of the "extended season" at MacTown. A C-17 visited them bringing freshies, several thousand pounds of mail and a few late winterovers, and headed north with about 100 passengers, leaving 125 folks behind. Some of the northbound folks were late science projects, some had showed up in February to work on a new fuel tank up where TESL, er, F-Stop used to be. The McM winterovers will be isolated until Winfly...whenever that is or whatever that is called. Instead of some flights in the third week of August, that event will be smaller and occur during the first week of September. For those of you curious about the ongoing winter life at McMurdo, admin guy Tom Hamann's blog is definitely recommended. And also this year the Antarctic Sun is maintaining a winter presence. Meanwhile, our opening flights at Pole will likely be the Basler variety staring in mid-October.

Friday 21 March was our big dinner celebration, although we still saw the sun for a few more days on and off and on. Maybe. For the sunset party weekend we have had overcast skies and poor surface definition. Thursday morning 20 March I made the call that we had a "Stonehenge moment"--well, not really, but it seems that at 6 AM the sun shone directly in the window at the sun deck (directly above Destination Alpha (DA), the main station entrance) and a couple hundred feet straight down the main hall, so you could see your shadow in the doors at the other end. Hmmm, at right below is a photo I took of the sun from the same spot in the hallway, looking back towards DA. And here is a hero shot in the B3 hallway...remember I was playing hooky light o day from my morning treadmill run...

Not long after station close, there was a women-only sleepover at ARO. Well, I wasn't there, but thanks to Heidi Lim and Leah Webster's camera I do have documentation (below left) that we have a well-rounded population. At left below can be seen 11 out of 12 of the female population--From left: Katie, Deb, Calee, Heidi, Jane, Robin, Mandi, Amy, Leah, Terry, and Katie. Sue was absent--she had to go launch a weather balloon. Do check out Heidi's blog, she has been out and about on the station environs, with camera. Yes, we do have plenty of toilet paper for the winter, a highly qualified facilities engineer, and a well-trained trauma team...:)night away from home

The station was scheduled to close Friday 15 February, but it happened a day earlier on the 14th, leaving 60 of us here, down from nearly 200 only a few days before that. Things are going well--Bill Spindler passed his "winter dental review" and finally moved back into the room he was in for the 2005 winter. With some familiar friendly next-door neighbors! In the first week after closing we had some warm (-20s F) temperatures, but now in the first week of March it is flirting with the -60s...

I must add a sad note here...former coworker and friend Mike Pavlak passed away at home on 23 January. Mike worked in the program for several years in the late 70s with H&N, and continued with it and its successor companies. He showed up at Pole to take over from me as the 1978 station manager. This page (at bottom left) includes a classic picture which includes both of us, taken while I was on R&R at McMurdo in January 1977, and here is a brief obituary (MS Word document) from the DMJMHN intranet site.

Well, the icebergs that plagued McMurdo Sound a couple years ago have gone bye bye (watch the icebergs)...but this year we had a new problem--heavy pack ice 500 miles north of McM, much worse than in recent years. The only icebreaker to show up this summer was the Swedish vessel Oden, which got to work after a science cruise from PA. Here's more info on the 2007-08 program, and a link to a PolarTrec blog on the venture. The science cruise departed from PA in late November, the beakers were sent to McM via helo on 7 January before the icebreaking duties began in earnest. Oden first made it to McM on 11 January, after finding much better ice conditions than in the past few years. Meanwhile, the cargo ship American Tern arrived at Lyttleton from PH on the on Friday the 25th as scheduled, and left a couple days later for the ice. But...the tanker was hung up at the pack ice edge, the Oden went up to help, putting the tanker Gianella arrival off until around Tuesday the 29th Offloading finished up and she left late on the 31st. The Tern showed at McM on 6 February and left around the 13th.

More on the heavy traverse season. ...the Norwegian-American scientific traverse--from Troll via Plateau Station (where they found the 1960-era USARP station intact--news article. and the Pole of Inaccessibility (where they found that bust of Lenin)--was supposed to roll into Pole around 19 January, marking the end of the first phase of their 2-year project--a return trip from Troll. But...they ended up stranded after first one and then two of their four vehicles broke down, putting them 220 miles from Pole. First they requested USAP assistance, and accordingly the SP heavy traverse (which was heading back to McM) turned around and arrived back on station on 14 January. As things evolved, the project decided to winterize their equipment at their site, and a Basler was chartered from AL&E to fly the team and some of their equipment to Pole. The first 6 made it on the 20th, and the rest of them along with ice cores and other stuff made it on Monday the 21st. The group flew north to McM on Wednesday the 23rd.

The new station dedication happened on Saturday 12 January...the guest list was rather exclusive, and the on-station ceremonies were extensive. I do have lots of pictures, but since I'm rather busy doing other things at the moment :) for the moment I must recommend the NSF press release and the excellent Antarctic Sun coverage. An earlier story on this event came from the Aussie media. Meanwhile, the station has also been visited by the annual Congressional delegation.

The South Pole Traverse--yeah, that one, the one from McM--doing "trail maintenance"... rolled into the station on 8 January, after advance scout Bill McCormick wandered into the B3 lounge the night before and announced their presence. He was welcomed to Pole, and since he wasn't driving, he was handed a cold beer. The ITASE traverse--this year's venture from Byrd Glacier to Pole--showed up on the morning of Christmas Eve. Teacher Elke Bergholz has an excellent blog entry here. And a bit later there was a Chilean scientific traverse, which appeared to include some paying tourist members. Not unlike recent ISS (International Space Station) ventures. Hmmm.

if this is Friday it must be...many pax were asleep

This season has been an interesting one as far as aviation is concerned--starting with the "soft opening" using the Basler--something that was to be repeated at station close. Then on the morning of 7 December, TWO Twin Otters with 17 pax showed up from PH (left, photo from Thorsten Stezelberger). What did they do? Well, take pictures and visit the store, of course. And then there was that "mystery aircraft" that was flew over on 8 December without saying hello. But not without this picture (right) by Jill Fox, who was part of a campout and happened to have a camera at the right time. Well, it turned out to be that new Airbus A380...the full story is here thanks to help from the ExplorersWeb team. Oh, here's the complete Airbus press release and an ExplorersWeb followup.

And then the USAP-chartered Basler crashed on 20 December 2007 near Mt. Patterson, a West Antarctic field site 550 miles west of McMurdo, during a takeoff attempt after picking up the field party from the POLENET (Polar Earth Observing Network) project, that had just installed GPS units and seismic instruments at the site. Ten aboard-six team members and four crew, and no injuries (NSF press release), and Mitchell's blog with the full story and pics. This has put a crimp in the AGAP project as well as that oft-threatened "soft close". A team was sent in to repair the crashed plane; it was flown out via Rothera before the end of the season.

aw, chuteAnd then there was the C17 airdrop on 19 December. Unlike last year's event, this one, also one of those "proof of concept" things, made 4 passes, dropping about 20 pieces of cargo, in smaller pieces. Actually a great spectator event on a warm (-15°F with no wind) day (more pictures and info).

Oh, as for those NGA folks...the first group of "last degree" skiiers arrived on 15 December and got a tour of the place, including IceCube.

IceCube started its first hole of the season (#63) on Wednesday 5 December and completed it a couple days later. By mid-January they'd completed 16 holes, and they finished string deployment on the "stretch goal" 18th hole on 25 January, on schedule. They then moved and winterized the drill camp...the last of the summer folks went home on 13 February. Their goal for next season is 20 holes... And they completed all 28 of the planned IceTop tanks and associated cabling (it will still take a while for the water in the tanks to freeze). You can read their summer weekly reports here.

grammatically correct at last?Okay, while the domed station has been emptied of buildings over the past few years, a major exterior modification has begun...the station sign has been removed (right, photo from Lawrence-Berkeley IceCube driller Thorsten Stezelberger). This is the first phase of the removal of the Dome entrance, jacking of the former power plant (right) arch to match the elevation of the rest of the previously jacked arches, connecting them all together, and starting structural erection of the logistics facility in the old garage arch. Stay tuned...and follow along with my construction photos.

By now of course the station is fully open for business, but a bit earlier this month things were a bit dicey. The Today Show team from NBC made it to the ice, and while Ann Curry originally planned to go to Pole for a long visit, Mother Antarctica's weather didn't cooperate, so the team barely made it in for a brief triple-shuttle visit early on Friday 9 November. Those flights made it in late Thursday/early Friday giving most w/o's an opportunity to go north after a week's delay. Anyway, for the Ann Curry fans, here is a show website.

Hey, in October 2007, the all-new Antarctic Sun had coverage of what Andy Martinez has been doing with all of the old winterover pictures. Not to be missed!

The scheduled "official station opening" (first LC-130 flight) on Monday 29 October was cancelled--not for temps (it was a warm -45°F/-43°C) but for visibility. This plane was to bring a big summer crowd (plus more mail and baggage left behind by the Basler pax...) But, a second flight later in the day did show up. Along with more later in the week. At the end of that week things turned bad, on Saturday 3 November all 3 flights aborted...the one that actually made it to Pole (only to boomerang for low viz) ended up returning to Terra Nova!

Speaking of the weather, w/o Steffen Richter has created a great automagic weather page...bookmark this for up-to-date met info!  
NGA expeditions...what was on in 2007-08...

Ronny Finsaas
set off from Pole on the afternoon of 20 January in an attempt to set a kiting record to PH. He made 190 miles in the first 2 days, and successfully made it to Hercules Inlet at midday on the 25th (SP times)--five days, or 60 hours of actual kiting, which included a record run of 312 miles in less than 24 hours. No website, but here is the thepoles.com article announcing his success. Ronny actually warmed up by starting at 87°S, 46°E (250 miles from Pole) between the 15th and 19th, with a rest day at Pole before the main venture.
South Pole 2007
...as a precursor to check out the course for the South Pole Race, Doug Stoup guided Brits James Fox and retired champion jockey Richard Dunwoody on an unsupported trek. They flew south from Cape Town to Novo on 29 November and then flew further southwest via DC-3 to the Herbert Mountains from where they started their trip on 1 December. James suffered from strain and altitude and was flown out on Christmas Day. Doug and Richard continued, as of 3 January they were at 86° 51' S. They reached the Pole late in the evening of the 18th, and were flown back to Novo. Here's a 26 October North Lake Tahoe (California) Bonanza article about Doug, who runs Truckee-based IceAxe Productions. Hmmm. I wonder if Doug has found any more Hershey bars on this trip!
the Friluftsaktiviteter team
is leader Ine-Lillie Gabrielsen and Rita Glenne, two Norwegian women who planned a unique venture starting with a climb of Mt. Vinson, followed by an unsupported trip from the old Vinson base camp to Pole. Yes, a new route! They started from the base camp on 5 December; as of 16 January they were still 225 miles from Pole. But they made it on the 27th. Whew...ALE/ANI air support was supposed to end the 25th (Chilean time). Here's a brief entry (in Norwegian) from their old web site.
Vision South Pole (otherwise known as the Optical Express South Pole Challenge)
was doctor Cameron Hudson planning a 2007-08 venture in support of vision charities...the Cardiff (UK) eye researcher announced he'll participate in a 700-mile sledging trek as part of a group including guide John Huston (of Northwinds), Sumio Tsuzuki (who climbed Everest and Cho Oyu and starred in the Everest IMAX flick) and Peter Blaikie (age 70),starting at Hercules Inlet. The team left PA on 26 November, Peter decided to bag and was flown out on 8 December; they crossed 88°S on the 15th after shifting their schedule to 29-hour "days" in an effort to reach Pole before air support ended. They made it on 25 January.
The CANDU ANI Messner Route South Pole Expedition
started at the edge of the Ronne Ice Shelf and followed the route used by the 1989-90 Messner/Fuchs expedition. The resupplied group is led by guide Eric Philips (Icetrek) of Australia, along with Merete Gjertsen (Norway), George Szwender (Canada) (blog), Alison Levine (USA) (blog archive), and Bernice Notenboom (Netherlands). They reached their starting point on 5 December; as of 4 January they were 125 miles away from that reflective ball. Which they reached on the 14th.
Sibusiso Vilane and Alex Harris
are 2 South Africans who tried an unsupported/unassisted trek. They started from the inlet on 16 November, they passed 87° on 4 January and made it to Pole on the 18th to be the first to do so from their country.
The ANI South Pole Quest
ended up consisting of:
Expedition Antarctica--Swiss climber Evelyne Binsack's plan for an 18-month effort to reach Pole starting with a bicycle trip across parts of Africa and the Americas beginning in September 2006, and then try a ski trip from PH to Pole beginning in November 2007. Evelyne was the first Swiss woman to summit Everest, in 2001 (German/French language site only; more preliminary info in English here).
Adrian Hayes, a former British Army Special Forces officer who's lived in Dubai for the past 10 years, doing motivational speaking and selling Airbuses among other things. Anyway, after climbing Everest in 2006, he decided to hit the poles in 2007, starting with a 4-man expedition to the North Pole from Ward Hunt Island this boreal spring, followed by this trek to the South Pole. They started at Hercules Inlet on 12 November, and reached Pole on 28 December. This site has a detailed log with many photos; thepoles.com identified this as the "ANI South Pole Quest" guided by Canadian Devon McDiarmed. Other team members include Norwegian cross-country skier Hans Foss and Lebanese climber Max Chaya. Max has made it up Everest and done previous last-degree ventures to both poles.
Hvitserk South Pole expedition
was a 7-person unsupported/unassisted Norwegian trek led by guide Bengt Egil Rotmo. The others are Jens Kristian, Ann Trude, Gro Mette, Bjørn, Truls and Lars. They reached their starting point on 12 November and reached Pole on New Years Day (SP time). It was put together by the Norwegian company Hvitserk (Norwegian site) which of course was also putting together a tour for the 2011-12 centennial of Amundsen's trip.
Beyond Endurance
originally planned a 2007-08 3-person Irish venture following Shackleton's original planned route across the continent from the Weddell Sea to McMurdo. That was scaled back to a 4-person supported Pole trip from Hercules Inlet. They had considered continuing going some distance past Pole, but this trek extension was cancelled. The team members included leader Pat Falvey (website), Dr. Clare O'’Leary, Shaun Menzies (trip blog), and Jonathon Bradshaw. This 3-year project included a trek across South Georgia in 2006 (and another planned one in 2008). The successful SG crossing was led by climber Pat Falvey, as was a boreal 2007 summer crossing of southern Greenland via DYE 2. They started from the inlet on 12 November. On 5 January they were at about 89° 20', they reached Pole early in the morning of 9 January SP time.
Cancelled! Slovakian Peter Valusiak
again planned a continental crossing to McMurdo, this time starting from Novo. He just barely started when word came that his mother had suffered a stroke, he was airlifted out on about 20 November.
"Last Degree" ventures
included one from 89°S that started on 9 December, reaching Pole on the 16th. This one included Kevin Dempsey, Lance Ranger, Stefan Anders, and Armund Mussey, led by ALE guide Tim Hewette. This one is newsworthy because Kevin Dempsey continues to speculate about the station and the alien forces behind IceCube... :) Later, two separate "last 2 degree" groups were dropped off at 88° on about 10 January. They split up into 2 groups, one with Børge Ousland (guide): Nils Thomas Lien, Britt Thorstensen, Nicolas (Nick) Moga, Otto Kalvo, and Stephan Kucsko. The other was guided by Svante Strand: Adrian MacLaughlin, Andrew Pearce, Helen Turton, Rudi Jansen, and John Bourke. As of the 18th both groups were at 89 degrees. Borge's team made it to Pole on the 20th; Svante's group was flown to a point 8-1/2 miles from Pole, Borge went out to meet them as they came in. Yet another "last degree group" was the British venture Shackleton's Unfinished Journey which consisted of a group guided by vet Mike Thornewill and team co-leader Barry Harper, with Murray Howitt, Carolyn Aitchison, Deb Stevenson, Richard Durance, Lynsey Gawn, Dean (Woody) Woodcock, Jo Craig-Humphreys, and Mary ?. They were doing the "last 112 miles" that Shackleton didn't finish when he turned around at 88°23'S. They arrived at PH on 9 January, got flown to their starting point (well, latitude, not longitude) on the 11th, and made it to Pole on the 22nd.

What's off...cancelled, deferred, or forgotten...
 
Opération Pole Sud (French language site)
was Frenchman Charles Hedrich's solo attempt at a speed record from near the coast of Berkner Island, assisted by kites. He started on 2 December and made great speed for awhile--completing 350 miles through the 22nd, he had to abandon the trip due to a nagging urinary tract infection and fever. After waiting 5 days he was flown back to PH on the 27th. He's planning a new pole-to-pole 2009 venture...
Sub-Zero Antarctic Expedition
consists of Jason de Carteret (British) and Todd Carmichael (American) who are doing an unsupported unassisted trip from Hercules Inlet. They started on 28 November hoping to break the speed record of 40 days for this route. But Jason had suffered injuries during the first few days and was flown out on 5 December. Todd continued on until 23 December. Storms slowed his progress, and he decided to be picked up after pushing on to near 84°S. Todd was already planning a solo unassisted/unsupported try for next year.
Peter Valusiak
from Slovakia, had planned a solo crossing from Berkner Island to McM via Pole...which has been postponed until 2008. Not much that I could read on his Slovakian language web site, which is now gone.
Extreme South
is Robert Conway, a Type I diabetic who plans to be the first diabetic on insulin to reach Pole unsupported, and Toby Williams, another medical student from St. George's Hospital in SW London (a third team member, Doug Orr, backed out in 2006). Their previously planned trip to recreate part of the Scott/Shackleton route has been postponed until 2008-9 for financial reasons. By then they'll be doctors. They plan to use kites to help the otherwise unsupported trip from the top of the Beardmore to Pole and thence to Patriot Hills.
Icebird
was still planning their "kitesled" trip over a "new route," but they have been set back by the death of one of the original expedition members, Andrew McAuley, in a kayaking accident off the west coast of the South Island (NZ). They recently reworked their kitesled during a Norway trip, now they are trying to figure out how to finance their trip to a remote part of the continent, including provision for rescue. In the boreal 2008 summer they will venture along the shore ice of Hudson Bay.
Journey South 2007
was a planned 2007-08 four-man unsupported venture led by Briton Alex Hibbert, to be age 21 at the time of the expedition. Originally his plan was to be the youngest British person to reach the Pole and the youngest unsupported expedition leader. Later the plans were to do a new route from Halley to Pole. That was cancelled as well...latest plans are to do the North Pole in 2008.
South Pole Solo
is 24-year-old Mark Evison, from Dulwich (near London), he wanted to be the youngest person to walk to the Pole (from Hercules Inlet) alone and unsupported. But he's postponing things due to lack of funds for 2 years (well, looks like 2008-09) until he graduates from Sandhurst...
90° SOUTH
was the planned unsupported round trip from Berkner Island by Brits Ben Saunders and Tony Haile. They planned to pull sledges to Pole, and switch to backpacks for the return trip on skis. Hmmm...on 24 October they pushed this trip back to the 2008-09 season...in the meantime, this past March/April Ben attempted a solo speed record trip to the North Pole, which he had to abandon after only 8 days when his ski bindings failed. Now Ben is planning to accompany Alastair Humphries on his 1800-mile return venture in to Pole in 2008-09.
Hummers to hit Highway 90
Apple co-founder Steve Wozniak announced he's planning to join an expedition of hydrogen-fuel-cell powered Hummers on a drive south from McMurdo in December 2007, along with astronaut Buzz Aldrin. Yeah right. The trip was to be filmed in 3D by Academy Award winner James Cameron. Another old story (scroll down). Presumably they intended to travel the much cussed-and-discussed "road to Pole," but they would first have to get their vehicles to McM. Hmmm.
Cynan Rhodes
has another green trip planned for the Antarctic, at least according to this news article. He's not going with the Hummer team, but will use an electric car to cross the continent. Right.

striped propellerOkay, the October 2007 "soft opening" went down, with 5 of the 6 planned Basler flights. The first of these with new folks occurred on Thursday 18 October. In addition to 15 new faces and freshies, the aircraft also brought...flu shots (Heidi Lim). The Basler twin turbo had first landed at Pole Sunday 14 October (left, photo from Heidi) along with a Twin Otter. The Basler continued to McM and was to return to Pole Monday with the first 18 summer folks. And fly north with some w/o's. And repeat a few times. But bad weather in McM delayed the personnel changeout. It finally started on the 18th when 15 new people showed up and 2 left. The second Basler flight came the next day. The third didn't happen until 24 November. [Until now the earliest first flight was the 16 October 1999 LC-130 that came in to pick up Jerri Nielsen. But they didn't call that the "opening flight" either.]

What is a Basler? Basically a completely modified/rebuilt DC-3 (read, jack up the nameplate of a WWII DC-3 (or C-47, or R4-D or whatever) and rebuild and modify it). They've been to Pole before, here is more info on the previous visit and the aircraft. In any case, the plan is to get the population jacked up to 260 people by 5 November.

What will happen?? Well, the siding and "chamfer" project will continue, in an effort to save a few more BTUs and KWs as well as make the place look decent for THE DEDICATION OF THE NEW ELEVATED STATION scheduled for 12 January. With of course bunches of DVs scheduled in for a couple of double shuttles...not unlike the first station dedication was held at Pole in January 1975. Oh, yes, that means I must mention this bit of trivia: the actual first station dedication was held in early 1957 in MCMURDO, and the Polies didn't even find out about it until much later. Meanwhile, other construction activity will see erection of the base structure of the SPT ground shield, jacking of the last section of the arch (the old power plant section), removing the old Dome entrance and filling it in with arch connecting the old power plant and biomed arches, and beginning on the foundation work for the logistics facilities to be built inside this arch.

Update....the Norwegian-US Scientific Traverse is one of the more noteworthy International Polar Year (IPY) events. This is a 2-season international multidisciplinary return traverse, exploring the East Antarctic ice sheet, from the Norwegian Troll Station (where the team is now) to Pole. The first half happened in 2007-08, and it included a stop at the site of Plateau Station. Plateau was occupied for the 1966-1968 winters and featured a 30-meter met tower, similar to the one at Pole, although a late 80s event failed to find it. One of the participants is Colorado State researcher Glen Liston...who happens to be a 1983 winterover. Back then he was the maintenance mechanic. Their plans were to be at Plateau for 5-6 days drilling a 90m ice core. Well, it turns out they broke down a few miles away, but they still discovered the station only buried up to the roof...and the met tower. By the way, these folks have a great historic page about Plateau, with photos including one of that met tower. This traverse will also investigate some of those subglacial lakes which have become a big thing of late.

Would there there be a 300 Club in the 2007 winter? Well, no. Earlier this spring temps dropped briefly below -100°F a couple of times, but not long enough for anyone to gear up. Global warming?? Here's Heidi Lim's view of the scroll the first time the magic number popped up. So far in the 50+ years that folks have been at Pole, the only other winter that it didn't make it into 3 digits was 1964. And here were the dwindling odds that it might have happened (graph courtesy of the NOAA guys).

dome?moon over, uh, somewhereBefore the sun came up, in early September the cardboard came off the windows (left, photo from Laura Rip), and the visible astronomical displays are gone. But not before the 28 August lunar eclipse got watched by me in Nevada and documented by Robert Schwarz (right) at Pole (scroll down to August). Otherwise things have been rather quiet of late, in part because satellite antenna problems have cut back on internet visibility. You may have noticed (if you noticed the site of the midwinter picture) that the old garage/gym/bar whatever along with the power plant are no more. Winfly has happened, and MacTown is swarming with early summer folks, including one Nicholas Johnson, so surely McM is not a big dead place. As reported there, the Tax Court has ruled yet again that American USAP folks have to pay taxes. Lots more folks got caught, you can read their unsuccessful strategies here (search this page with your browser for "Antarctica"). The moral is, don't try it.

Yes, happy Midwinters Day, whenever and wherever you are and may celebrate it. Nowadays this celebration is a huge event (well, based on the size of the winterover crew vs the old days) and you now can check out the extensive documentation of things on some of the winterover web sites. 30 years ago things were more modest, here is how we celebrated in 1977.

The third annual BF5K was held at the end of April, here's a link to Jason Stauch's blog entry on this ingenious event. Yes, I participated in the first version, and based on my lousy finishing time I should have worn a costume. Other serious runners and exercisers are somewhere on the way to MacTown (virtually) as the Race to McMurdo was underway again, hot and heavy, this documentation by Heidi Lim. I must confess that I made it to Mactown and almost back to Pole (Papa) 3 in the 2005 version. On the temporary facilities side, note that the smokers have found a temporary warm place to indulge, "the 2.0 Lounge" which has been parked outside of Destination Alpha for the winter. Those of you who were around back then (2000-01) will recognize this structure as the former "SPARCLE Palace" which is described and depicted here, then and now. Butt...all is not good news for smokers. It has recently been announced that as of 2010 there will no longer be any indoor smoking facilities at any USAP stations....

Tony Meunier, one of the 1974 USGS winterovers, recently revealed to me that his publication U.S. Geological Survey Scientific Activities in the Exploration of Antarctica: 1946-2006... is now available online here. This 15mb PDF document (which actually has a much longer title) documents all USGS events, visitors, winterers, cachets, etc., between Highjump and the present.

Northern hemisphere events of note...this boreal spring and summer...first was the American Polar Society symposium at the OSU Byrd Center in Columbus, OH, 25-27...the eclectic program features speakers from the IGY era (including Dick Bowers, builder of the IGY Pole Station) and folks addressing IPY and current concerns. I was there and it was great to get together with old Polie and other friends. Two weeks later in Corpus Christi, TX, the Antarctic Deep Freeze Association (ADFA) met on 8-11 May. This group is composed primarily of the folks who WERE THERE during IGY, unfortunately I didn't make that one, which featured a videoconference with Pole. And last but perhaps not least, we of the 1977 Pole Souls had our second reunion in Boulder, CO, 16-17 June. Unlike the first one in 2000, a few folks didn't make this time...one guy who won't is Alex Zaitsev, whose presence is a victim of the current poor USA-Russia relations, meaning he didn't get a visa in time, although he did visit some of us in August.

So what's with all this stuff about folks driving to Pole? No recent or hard detail on the team website, although this International Herald Tribune article is pretty good. The team has applied for the appropriate permits...the only thing is that they have to get their vehicles and alternative fuels to McMurdo in December, which is before the shipping season begins. Hmmm. This may incorporate the previously announced trip by Steve Wozniak, and they may be using Hummers...well, we will see. USAP did three round trips to Pole in the 2006-07 summer, according to some of the news articles.

The thirtieth Antarctic Treaty meeting in New Delhi happened 30 April through 11 May. Not a lot of newsmaking issues this time, but new management plans for both Pole and Palmer were addressed.

not a bright day

Sadly, yet another unfortunate news event--the tragic shooting of 32 people at Virginia Tech--prompted the lowering of the Dome flag to half mast on 19 March 2007. At right is a picture of this event...here are a couple more photos with additional information and credits.

going going

Yes, the dome demo crew has been back at work. After spending a bit of time gutting the old garage, they attacked the science building in earnest. At left, upper berthing is history, stacked up to ship back up north (Brien Barnett photo). By now (late April) they've finished with the old UB/science building structure, gone back out to the garage arch to wipe out the old garage/carp shop/gym except for the floor, and gone back into the dome to remove the old UB/science floor. Cold temps have hampered equipment operations...but the plan is next to remove the old garage floor next, followed by the old comms floor. After the food gets moved. Again.


it works!

Happy sunset...20 March is the official equinox date in most of the world, but as usual the sun was visible for a few more days. The station bid the daylight farewell with the sunset dinner on 24 March. Another one of those great events...here's a picture of the 11 women on station this winter. Preceding this was the official 1 March inauguration of the International Polar Year...a 24-month modern version of the IGY that spawned the reason for the original Pole Station and the first of what is now 51 winterover crews (NSF press release on IPY, which includes a link to the IPY launch webcast).

Yup...after a day's delay, the station closed with the final 3 flights on Sunday 18 February 2007, leaving 54 souls....All about the last day of flights was not uneventful. The last week of summer included lots of last-minute work by the "soft close" SPT team. While they didn't get to stay quite as long as they'd planned, their efforts resulted in a successful first light on Jupiter on 16 February (Eurekalert and SPT group press releases, as well as the NSF press release with videos). The photo at right by Jeff McMahon shows ironworker Brian Hardin celebrating the successful installation. polie trash on deckMeanwhile, the IceCube data acquisition team also frantically worked to get those new detectors up and running. The final tally on flight operations: there were 359 flights vs the planned 372...but since the aircraft cargo loads were higher than expected, more cargo and fuel was moved than had been planned. The last C-17 out of Mactown happened on Saturday 24 February, leaving behind only 119 w/o's there, the smallest crowd in years. And there is discussion that the program downsizing may continue next season...along with the continued stretching out of the completion of the MacTown power plant upgrade....as those ancient 399's that were supposed to go away by now are still chugging away.

On the waterfront...the shipping season is over. At left, the cargo ship American Tern is seen departing on 10 February; this unique view is from the wharf control tower. Here is what the Tern looked like full of cargo instead of garbage, when it showed up on 4 February (the Tern photos are all by McM w/o Tom Hamman). At right, the tanker Paul Buck, arrived on 31 January with help from the Polar Sea (Antarctic Sun photo by Peter Rejcek). In the background is the NSF research icebreaker N. B. Palmer which had docked earlier to swap out scientists and cargo...and then headed east to PA on a long science cruise. The Buck wasn't around long...after discharging nearly 7 million gallons of fuel, it departed to make way for the cargo ship.

recreational boating?

And at Pole, IceCube finished the season with 13 strings completed on 29 January, and firn hole #14 completed with the new firn drill. This year the drill camp (Seasonal Equipment Site/SES) was staged for the winter at the next drilling location rather than being towed back to the berms. And the permanent IceCube lab had its official dedication. And the SP Telescope is now assembled (at least the big pieces) in all its glory big dish (left, USAP photo library shot by Scot Jackson). Some of the SPT crew were to hang around past the official 17 February closing date for a "soft close" as late as the 23rd, but that didn't happen, they left on the 18th like everyone else. Late summer official Pole visitors included the design team, on site to sign off on new cryo and look at the SPT building...and on Friday 19 January, Helen Clark, PM of NZ showed up for a tour of the place.


 

Here are the 2006-2007 expedition, last-degree and other similar events I've watched:

Correne Erasmus-Coetzer
from South Africa, wanted to be the first African woman to ski from Hercules Inlet, she was part of three-woman expedition which also included Brit Beth Cheesebrough and guide Denise Martin. They had several resupplies en route. Denise (with Matty McNair) guided the 1997 McVitie's Penguin Polar Relay, the first all-woman trek to the North Pole. Correne did "last-degree" trips to both Poles in 2001 and 2002. They arrived at PH on 24 November and were flown to Hercules Inlet two days later to begin their trip. They successfully reached Pole on 18 January, where they were offered an early-morning snack of coffee and cookies in the galley.
Beth Cheesebrough
accompanied Correne and Denise, here's her web site with diary and pics.
Antarctic Solo Expedition
is 44-year-old Brit John Wilton Davies, who tried his own solo unsupported from Hercules Inlet to Pole. Impressive--he had no Polar experience and if he succeeded he told folks he'd be the oldest person to do this. He started on 28 November, as of New Year's he was halfway (85°S) but it was slow going and he was running short of supplies. He ran out of food and time...stopping at 89°S where he had a food drop and then waited for ALE's last flight to pick him up on the 26th...and take him to Pole to gather up the last Last Degree group.
Polar First
the helicopter team, Jennifer Murray and Colin Bodill, that visited Pole in December 2003 shortly before crashing north of PH on a transpolar venture, are did it again this season. It again was a Bell 407, they headed south starting from Dallas, Texas on 5 December. On 31 December they reached Marsh Base on KGI, and they showed up at Pole on around 1700 on 7 January, after a 9-hour 1200-mile trip from Fowler with two fuel stops. Conveniently for Polies it was a Sunday, and they shared the limelight with two Russian helicopters that arrived the same day. This time Jennifer and Colin were accompanied by a second backup Bell 407 aircraft. They stayed around Pole for about 8 hours and then headed back north to PH for some welcome sleep. After a couple of rest days they continued north (one of their stops was their 2003 crash site) and crossed the Drake from Marsh to Ushuaia on 19 January.
Ray and Jenny Jardine
from Arizona, did a ski venture from Hercules Inlet with one resupply. They left PH on 12 November, first skiing north from PH to the inlet before turning around. They arrived at Pole on 9 January. Originally they planned to kite back to PH but they changed their mind and flew back instead...and Ray then decided to go climb Vinson, which he summitted on the 26th. These guys have done a lot of extreme travel...like the Kiwi "Thermal Heart" team, they've also rowed across the Atlantic. They're the first American married couple to ski to Pole.
Hannah McKeand
who did a group traverse to Pole 2 years ago, announced she'll do it again this year--this time a solo unsupported trip from Hercules Inlet. She hoped to complete the Pole trip in a record 40 days, and she did! She showed up at PH on the 12th and started a training trip before racing south, starting from Hercules Inlet on 19 November. to complete what would be the fastest trip to Pole--39 days, 9 hours and 33 minutes, arriving Pole on 29 December at 0933 Pole time. She had the station and IceCube tour, dinner in the elevated station, and spoke to the USAP community before being flown back to PH the next day (here she is in the galley with Glenn Grant). She'll follow this venture with a sailboat voyage from Tasmania to the South Magnetic Pole.
The Thermal Heart Antarctic Expedition
was the expedition by Jamie Fitzgerald, a Kiwi from Tauranga who holds some Atlantic rowing records. He announced a round-trip trek from PH along with age-25 Auckland oarsman Kevin Biggar. They hoped to be the first all-Kiwi trek in 50 years. Back in March 2006 they talked to media about their planned unsupported 1800-mile trip. They were on the first flight to PH and started their trip from Hercules Inlet on 12 November. Temps were above zero (F)...an auspicious start. But on 1 January they were late, still 5 miles from Pole, which they reached the next day. They announced that due to hamstring injuries and unfavorable weather they'd abandon their return trek and fly back to PH.
team n2i (n2i stands for "Novo to Inaccessability")
is a venture by Rory Sweet, Rupert Longsdon, and Henry Cookson, guided by veteran Paul Landry. They flew into ALCI's blue ice runway (70°51'S-11°36'E, about 10 miles from the Russian Novolazarevskaya Station. Starting from Novo, they headed southeast towards the Pole of Inaccessibility (POI, 82°58'S-54°40'E; 12,226' altitude) by skiing and kiting when possible. They left Novo on 3 Dececmber and completed the trip to the POI on 20 January...surprised to find the rumored statue of Lenin that supposedly had been there for 48 years, mounted on the chimney of the IGY-era Soviet hut. They proceeded to dig out the hut entrance looking for the guestbook, not to mention cigarettes and vodka (!) but they could not get the door open! They were flown north to Russian base Progress and then were to go on to Molodezhnaya...perhaps in 2 weeks they were back in Cape Town.
Polar Quest 2006
was a Royal Navy (UK) joint venture to the magnetic North Pole and the geographic South Pole during 2006. The Antarctic trip was a 4-man 1500-mile round trip--the "longest ever journey undertaken on foot in Antarctica by a British expedition." They showed up at PH on 12 November and started south from there almost immediately. They arrived at Pole on 27 December, the halfway point of their trip. They held a memorial service at the site of Scott's January 1912 camp. On 1 January they attended the annual Pole marker surveying ceremony, they then moved their camp 2 miles away in hopes of finding better winds to help them sail north (their camp at Pole) (photo from Glenn Grant). They left Pole on 2 January and kited 70 miles the first day. They made it back to PH on 21 January after a final day of kiting 86 miles.
Called off! Southern Reach
Not to be outdone, the Royal Air Force also planned an unsupported trip from Hercules Inlet. The four-man ice team, led by Warrant Officer Alan Sylvester, trained in Iceland and with David Hempleman-Adams. They were on the first flight to PH on 12 November, and made good progress until their team was medevaced by ALE only 101 miles short of the destination due to aggravation of severe frostbite injuries that two members of the team incurred at the beginning of the trip. But they did make it to Pole...their ALE flight refueled at Pole before taking them back to PH.
"Last-Degree" guided trips
--some of these are being run by Polar Explorers--including a "last-degree" trip by Sara Kameswaran (an Indian living in California) guided by Annie Aggens, and a "last-two-degree" trip by Laurie and Richard Goldsmith (from California) and Ajeet Bajaj (video) (from India), guided by Keith Heger. Both teams flew south to PH on 8 January and were dropped off for their walks on 11 January. Sara and Annie reached Pole on 21 January, while the 2-degree team (which had actually started from 88°-17' S due to poor landing conditions at the 88th parallel) reached Pole on 26 January.
Another "last degrees team"
was to be led south from Shackleton's furthest point by Fiona and Mike Thornewill...guiding Cedric DeSousa from NYC, Veronica Shaw from the UK, Lorraine Kelly, Dick Durance, Danusia Derben, Polly Hatcher, and Wincent Kordula. But, four members of this group were hit by food poisoning in PA. As a result, some of the group dropped out, and guide Mike had to be medevaced en route. Eventually the resulting trip included only the women. When they got to Pole on 1 January, Polly Hatchard (a Royal Navy officer) posed in a bikini.
Yet another team
included Chinese guy Jin Fei Bao (who summited Everest in 2006 and had also bagged Vinson on this Antarctic trip), German Norbert Kern, Richard Laronde from Boston, and Alex from Moscow, guided by David. They left 89°S on 11 January and reached the glass ball on the 19th.
Alpine Ascents
another mountain guiding organization, earlier led yet another Last Degree group of as many as ten including two guides and Canadian Claude Boisvenue of Montreal. One of the guides was Patricia Sotos, the only Chilean to have summitted Everest. They left 89° on 14 December and reached Pole a week later.
The Indian Navy
yet another Commonwealth military group, announced a planned 10-person ski trip to Pole in 2006-07, led by CDR Satyabrata Dam. The group trained in Greenland and Iceland, and a PR firm was hired to promote the event. This was a 125-mile "last-two-degree" trip, with an ALE guide making a team of 11. They arrived at PH on 12 December, flew on south to their starting point, and arrived at Pole on 28 December (campsite photo by Glenn Grant).
Jesus College, Oxford
had a group of six alumni who are planning a 2006-07 trip from Hercules Inlet, guided by the Northwinds folks...but their link has disappeared with no further news.
Postponed! Extreme South
is Robert Conway, a Type I diabetic who plans to be the first diabetic on insulin to reach Pole unsupported, and Toby Williams, another medical student from St. George's Hospital in SW London (a third team member, Doug Orr, backed out). Their trip to recreate part of the Scott/Shackleton route has been postponed until 2008-9 for financial reasons. By then they'll be doctors. They plan to use kites to help the otherwise unsupported trip from the top of the Beardmore to Pole and thence to Patriot Hills.
Postponed! Icebird Expedition
is three Australians, Ben Deacon, Andrew McAuley and Patrick Spiers, they plan to use a newly designed steerable "kitesled" created by NZ designer Peter Lynn to cross the continent to Patriot Hills. They recently announced that they've postponed things again until 2007-08. Their route to Pole is to be "a new route" which the team still isn't announcing. In April 2006 they were testing their kitesleds in Greenland. Earlier in 2006 Andrew was part of a 3-person kayak venture south from Trinity Peninsula (63°37'S-58°20'W) along the west side of the Antarctic Peninsula. This, the John Rymill Memorial kayak expedition, retraced portions of Rymill's seminal British Graham Land Expedition of 1934-37, The team's yacht stopped at Palmer Station on the way north after the venture.

view from the shuttle terminalIt was helicopter week! FOUR arrived on Sunday 7 January (photo at right by Cynthia Chiang). The two military-looking ones are Russian MI-8 helicopters on an official expedition led by Artur Chilingarov--yes, the guy who was involved in the Antonov-3T adventures earlier in this decade. Here's an Interfax press release. One of the pax gave Russian President Vladimir Putin a phone call from comms. Meanwhile, that Polar First helicopter team had been at Fowler (71°S-71°W) but since they had good weather then they headed on 1200 miles south via PH and showed up as well in two red Bell helos--the team has been accompanied by a backup 407 piloted by two Bell Helicopter employees. It is not that often that four aircraft park at Pole...the only other time I know of was on 16 November 1976...but those were fixed-wing aircraft.

breaking newsIn the past couple of years, the big icebergs threatened to disrupt the annual sea resupply. Not so this year. The Coast Guard's aging but still powerful Polar Sea is almost to McMurdo as of 4 January. And NSF arranged for more help. At left, the Swedish breaker Oden (photo by summer Polie NOAA researcher Andrew Seaman) is seen breaking ice. This vessel first did a science cruise (a Swedish/Chilean/NSF joint venture) departing PA on 12 December for the Ross Sea. Then somewhere west of Cape Evans, the science team was flown to Mactown by helo, and Oden began its icebreaking effort. Here is more info on this unique science cruise from PolarTREC, a new teachers-in-Antarctica program.

Christmas holidays brought the usual events--the Race Around the World...fancy dinner...HF radio caroling, and other stuff that can be only done during a 2 day weekend. Here's a good page of holiday photos and video from veteran IceCube guy Darryn Schneider. But the day after Christmas saw a strange power failure caused by some DDC problems which precipitated a glycol leak in the power plant...all is well now. Outside...the British RAF team called off their trip on Christmas Eve due to medical problems 101 miles from Pole, they were evacuated to PA by ALE. Meanwhile, 2 members of the 6-person "last-97-miles" trek (starting from Shackleton's furthest south) led by veterans Mike and Fiona Thornwill--including Mike--had food poisoning before leaving PA...Mike continued but the other group member had to cancel out. Meanwile, the 4-man Royal Navy team arrived on the 27th, and Hannah McKeand completed the fastest trek ever, 40 days, on the 29th.

oops, I dropped somethingOnce upon a time before the ski-equipped LC-130 Hercules, all of the construction material for the original IGY station was airdropped by a large Air Force transport aircraft known as a C-124 Globemaster. Well, in a twist of history, NSF had the Air Force try it again on 20 December--a proof-of-concept airdrop using a C-17 Globemaster III (right)...it was a complete success...delivering around 70,000 lbs of, er, flour and similar dry food. Here's the full story with pictures (and video).

give a liftThe second week in December was a good one for IceCube...first, the visiting design team inspected the new permanent lab several times and finally granted conditional occupancy on 8 December. At left is a view of the place just before the last major construction task--installing the cable tray bridge from the east tower to the second floor of the lab (these photos from IceCube which published weekly reports with photos throuth the summer). The team immediately frantically started moving in equipment and pulling cables. Meanhile, the drillers completed the first hole of the season on 14 December, eventually there would be 13.

raise a legMeanwhile nearby at DSL, the South Pole Telescope (SPT) was put together by teams of scientists, ironworkers, electricians, and, well, lots of people. The RPSC folks erected the structure and did the heavy lifts (right), while the science team from Chicago assembled the telescope components. The mirror supports were put together inside a large but unheated tent. The summer team were rather prolific bloggers as well, here is the main team blog with links to others. With photos of course. The two SPT pics here were taken by Jerry Marty and Bill Johnson on 8 December (USAP photo library)

A bit of history renewed...since the days of the original IGY station (which we may know as Old Pole) ham radio has played an important part in communications with folks and family back home. Perhaps a bit less important now that Polies have IP phones in their rooms, but it is still around. And to mark the transition from the dome to the new elevated station we have a transition from the old dome QSL card to this fresh new one.

Conrad ShinnAfter over a week of delays, the first Hercs landed at Pole on 31 October 2006...the first flight was designated as the commemorative flight for the first landing at Pole 50 years earlier to the day, in 1956, by Navy VX-6 pilot Gus Shinn. The anniversary was marked in Gus's home town of Pensacola with a special meeting of the Gulf Coast members of the Old Antarctic Explorers Association...an event which was favorably covered by the Pensacola News-Journal. NSF rep Dave Bresnahan attended and presented Gus with a commemorative plaque (left, News-Journal photo).

fly me homeAs is a tradition in recent years, Kenn Borek Air transits the continent from Rothera to McMurdo via Pole a few days before official station opening...using Twin Otters and similar light aircraft chartered to support NSF and Italian field operations. This year one of these aircraft was a Basler Turbo 67...a massively converted and upgraded DC-3, the same aircraft model as the Navy R4D "Que Sera Sera" that first landed at Pole 50 years ago (almost), on 31 October 1957. The flight landed at 1050 on 20 October and spent an hour refueling (right, photo by Ethan Dicks) before heading on to MacTown...taking two winterovers along for the ride.

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no movie tonightThe dome demo moved forward, at left is a view of the second floor of comms turning into history (thanks Neal Sheibe). By now the first floor is gone as well, except for the deck which will remain for now to support shelving.

Palmer Team 77 had a successful reunion at the end of September 2006, in Newport, Oregon...with 100% attendance from the surviving winterovers, as well as a few hangers-on like me! Hmmm, must be something about 1977, a very good year on the ice. Stay tuned for photos.

The current and future power demands have been the subject of continuing discussion and study over the last few months...years...most recently the science community, NSF, RPSC, and RSA Engineering put heads together during the 2006 Pole winter to see if there is enough power available to put the SPT online and still keep the lights on in the gym (studies and findings). Hmmm. Well, do YOU have any suggestions? There will be both astronomy and basketball this winter, but there were also two fuel bladders (remember those?) installed in and atop the biomed arch to ensure enough fuel is on hand for everything. Postponed to 2007-08 along with the dedication--the new logistics facility, perhaps the end of the dome building demolition, the rest of the siding, and perhaps (if it doesn't slip yet another year) the demo of the dome itself. This structure is still planned to be shipped back to Port Hueneme where it may yet grace the Oxnard skyline.

Winfly ended successfully; the last of the four C-17 flights to McMurdo was completed over the weekend of 26 August, despite some dicey weather. This time of year also means that the sky over Pole is brightening fast...late August was time for the last nighttime Hash House Harriers "run" of the season. The construction crew is headed back into the dome to continue demo work on what used to be comms. And as the news media once again tries to figure out what is happening to the ozone hole, so is the Polie NOAA team (the NOAA Pole ozone page with current data, animations, and background info).

penguinReunion updates...the Old Antarctic Explorers Association had a gathering in Warwick, RI (the site of Davisville and Quonset Point, the departure point for my first trip to the ice in 1972) on 17-19 August 2006. I was there, it was great time seeing folks from the old and not so old days. Meanwhile, we 1977 Pole Souls were making preliminary plans for our second reunion which happened in Boulder in June 2007, and Palmer Team 77 was planning to get together in September 2006 aboard the Hero in Newport, Oregon.

The Antarctic treaty meeting happened in June 2006, here is the report on the Hallett Station cleanup).

Dome demo update...the crew has returned from work in the dark sector and cryo, the next targets are the gutting of comms and upper berthing. Meanwhile up north in NZ, folks are concerned that the US Coast Guard icebreakers may not be up to the task of getting the cargo ships into Winter Quarters Bay (TV NZ article), especially since the Polar Star has now been placed in caretaker status (Seattle P-I article).

gym dandyOkay...midwinters week is now history, and the hijinks were in full swing. One of the main features was the WHIFF (winterover halfway film festival). The videos cropped up on Google video, or there are links in other places including Patrick McClure's pages. Meanwhile, some folks worked hard on that infamous Polie calendar (thanks to Jeff De Rosa) while others were preparing for some more serious hamming on the 24-25 June...KC4AAA was on the air for the event, but propagation was no help (update with photo).

no rest for the wearyAs the first major bit of winter dome demo...the annex is history (left). The rest of the dome buildings are now cold...(well, as usual with dark construction photos, I've cranked up the lighting a bit on this one so things can be seen. Here is the original version, with thanks to John Neame. The rest of the demo pics will soon be up in the construction photo section).

NSF has been studying the alternatives for icebreaking and cargo handling for awhile...most recently on 4 May they posted an information request for a "package deal," looking for an organization that could both break ice and deliver cargo (6.5 million gallons of JP-5 and AN-8, 250,000 gallons of mogas, 600 TEU of container cargo (a TEU is equivalent to a 20-foot milvan) and 1.5 million pounds of breakbulk). Not to mention retro. Got any spare ice-strengthened vessels in your back yard?

About 1150 statute miles north of Pole, veteran marine tech Joshua Spillane was presumed dead on Wednesday 19 April, 2 days after he had last been seen on the Laurence M Gould (LMG) as the ship made its way north from Palmsr Station to PA. Joshua had been employed for more than 10 years and 40 cruises. He was last seen on deck around 0500 Monday morning, and was noticed missing 6 hours later. After an onboard search, the LMG turned around and conducted a grid search. Argentina and Chile also assisted in the search effort. Conditions were harsh--20-40 knot winds, 20-foot seas with rain and snow, and 43°F water temperature. Here's a link to a couple of usap.gov news articles.NSF Polar Programs director Karl Erb released a press statement of condolences on 21 April; an earlier press release was issued on 18 April before the death was confirmed. Several other folks have died aboard Antarctic research vessels, but it seems that Joshua's tragedy is the first that did not occur while the vessel was securely berthed in a South American port.

When it was nearly dark outside (6 April) it went dark inside for awhile, in one of the more serious power outage situations in station history. It lasted for several hours (no, not one continuous outage) and was exacerbated by the failure of the power feed to the fuel arch, which, of course, fills up the fuel daytanks in the power plant and boiler mechanical rooms to keep everything running. It took a couple days to get things back to normal...in the meantime serious power conservation was conducted and stuff was moved to the B1 emergency pod just in case.

Fall featured continued dark sector construction on the SPT building, IceCube and elsewhere. In the new station, the gym was finished out except for the final floor and some of the stuff at the south end. And the dome demo began again...the annex was one of the first structures to bite the dust.

Antarctica has been a big deal in the news media in the last few weeks...with two major research reports in Science on that old familiar subject of global warming. The first, published 24 March, addressed the fact that both the Greenland and Antarctic ice sheets appear to be melting much faster than expected. See this NSF press release for more information. The second article appeared in the 31 March issue and discussed an observed 0.5°C warming per decade of the troposphere (pressure altitude of 500 hPa, 500 mb or 14.7" of mercury) based on recently compiled radiosonde data from nine stations including Pole. More information is available in this BAS press release and this BBC report.

squeeze playIn late March, C-16 headed north away from Ross Island towards the Drygalski Ice Tongue, which it hit on 29 March, breaking off a small bit of the tongue which was later named C-25. At right is a 14 April image from UW showing both bergs well north of the ice tongue.Watch the icebergs....Earlier, cargo and fueling operations did finish successfully, despite the iceberg action. There was enough open water west of the iceberg for the cargo ship and tanker to head north safely. The Coast Guard icebreaker Polar Star showed up on 14 February (press release), took on fuel, and did some channel grooming (in hopes of improving conditions for next season) before heading back north on the 16th. Here's a 10 February NSF press release with additional information and photos. The 9 February satellite photo (right, annotated by MODIS to show the movement) shows it squeezed between Ross and Beaufort Island The original shipping channel was just west of the Cape Bird coast, cut through ice which has now moved out. For reference, here's a 7 February bathymetric plot of the area from IGNS; here's January's chart of the shipping channel; and here's a NOAA sat photo of the area from 9 January 2006.

Pole closed on 21 February 2006 as the day's flights suddenly became the last ones. It was an incredibly successful season for airplanes, as there were a total of 377 flights, and unofficially just short of 10 million pounds of cargo, 16% more than planned, and a record, as stuff for next year's construction of the cargo building was shipped in, among other things. So...there are 64 folks left, I'm homesick, if anyone else is you must watch the summer video slide show that Patrick McClure has put up. Other recent stuff...while daylight lasted, construction in the dark sector continued on the SPT addition to DSL, as well as the counting house. And under the dome, the last upper berthing room party went off , while the erstwhile arch gym/exercise room has gained its last lease on life as the smoking bar. Dodgy Bastard...

pier hereThe tanker Lawrence H. Gianella replaced the American Tern at the pier, and fuel offload happened between 9 and 11 February. The tanker left with assistance from both Krasin and Polar Star. The cargo ship (left) had reached the pier on 2 February with the help of Krasin. Seems that the Tern bumped the ice pier a bit harder than expected but no harm no foul. Meanwhile, the other Russian icebreaker Kapitan Khlebnikov which was supposed to stay around and help, bailed and headed north on 1 February. Earlier, Krasin helped the NB Palmer make it to the pier for a brief port call on 28 January...Polies here note that Henry Malmgren disembarked and promptly flew south to consult on a Pole server he'd built.

This was to be the first year since Deep Freeze started that no US Coast Guard (or Navy) icebreaker would tend to the McMurdo sea lane. NSF arranged for the Russian icebreaker Krasin to do primary duty without help from a US vessel. But...now it seems that Krasin lost one of the blades from the starboard screw. She worked with her other two shafts at 110% power, but more work needed doing and the tanker Gianella was hanging back. And on 19 January NSF decided to get more help. Polar Star headed south from Seattle on 20 January...she is expected to reach the area about 20 February (USCG departure press release and return press release with photo link). McM divers had a look at Krasin but the prop was beyond repair with available material. Hopefully by mid February everybody will be out of McMurdo. Meanwhile, the third annual South Pole International Film Festival (SPIFF) was held on the weekend of 21 February...a great success.

Up north, the income tax case that many Polies have been watching has been resolved...the answer is, pay your taxes (!) Here's the 25 January decision and an accountant's commentary.

heavywall pipe, fancy weldshole in the roof?Across the skiway...the two new telescopes have been taking shape. At left (28 December, Carlton Walker) is the foundation for the massive 10-meter telescope, otherwise known as the South Pole Telescope (SPT; more information)...this massive structure will have a shield larger than the dome if it were inverted. It will be connected to DSL (seen behind it) with a walkway and lab space. At right atop DSL is the shield for BICEP (16 December photo by Yuki Takahashi)...on the ground to the right is the insulating boot that will support the telescope inside the shield. If you've been here awhile you'll notice that the DSL penthouse has been removed to make way for this new project, scheduled to go on line this season (more BICEP info here and here). The crane mount (yellow post) has been relocated from the roof to the second level, and the stairways and platforms are also scheduled for an upgrade. Meanwhile, the massive IceCube operation continued successfully...as of 29 January it finished the drilling season with EIGHT new holes, for a total of 9. This year the IceCube folks have been publishing excellent weekly reports on their progress, although the older reports are no longer available.

3 on 3that is allAt left (Peter Rejcek, 22 December) is the north end of the new B4 gym (first floor) and exercise room/weight room (balcony)...almost done here. The design team wa on site in late Janurary 2006 to inspect and grant conditional occupancy to the last 3 wings of the new elevated station. And at 0100 26 December the transition to the new comms room, well, called the Station Operations Center (SOC) for now at least was completed (right, Peter Rejcek, 23 December). The room on the northwest corner of B3 overlooks the dark sector and the skiway...there is supposedly room for a couch but this place is a bit more business oriented, unlike the old room in the Dome which Neil Conant shut down and saw go quiet and empty. The dart board is just outside the door.


where's the bar?trailer parkOutside...the first "South Pole Traverse" to make it all the way pulled into Pole on 23 December after 45 days on the trail. The train of equipment included a new dozer and snow haul dump trailer, visible at left in this photo (Peter Rejcek; this and the previous 4 photos are from the USAP Antarctic Photo Library). The team stayed around for 5 days before heading back to McMurdo, arriving on 14 January. The cargo included a "snow trailer" (tracked belly dump trailer) visible in the photo at left, as well as the D-8 "Mary Lou" (right; here's a shot of Mary Lou in action a couple days later). This 1 January 2006 Antarctic Sun article and this this 7 February 2006 NSF press release have more information.

Construction has continued at a fast pace on the elevated station and elswhere...as the first half of the summer saw the cargo office moved closer to the skiway...all the remaining science projects (and musical instruments) were moved out of Skylab so the place could be shut down...the old Biomed arch and front entrance were excavated in preparation for raising the arch for the new storage facility...BICEP telescope installation is proceeding on the second floor of DSL...the 10-meter telescope foundation is being assembled in a hole behind it, the beginning of the siding installation on the elevated station (see photo at left)...and in mid December the place suffered from a heat wave. where's the pub?The temperature soared to +7°F/-13.9°C, less than a degree shy of the all-time record. And the British "Numis Polar Challenge" showed up on 14 January after a 200-mile trek in authentic Scott-era polar garb and equipment (photo from ThePoles.com).

The first of the summer NGA visitors included that tricked 6x6 Ford Van, which showed up from PH on 13 December (photo at right, here's more info and photos), as well as veteran polar trekkers Borge Ousland and Rune Gjeldnes.

Yes folks, I finally left Pole on 21 November, four weeks after station opening, one of the last 2 winterovers to leave...Before I left, the VIPER telescope, (this year running the ACBAR project) was shut down for the last time. A bit earlier, the 10-year AST/RO project also came to an end...

da planeIt was over...the first LC-130 touched down at 1743 Friday 21 October 2005... bringing fresh folks as well as big money to Clayton Cornia who won the "skis down" pool (left, the aircraft approaches the waiting winterovers whose shadows can be seen here). Soon the second flight landed, and after a few folks left, the population was already up to 157. The third flight didn't land, as the temperatures had drifted below the theoretical -58°F limit. 1-1/2 CanadiansThe day before we'd been visited by three Twin Otters transiting from Rothera to McMurdo (right, the first aircraft turns off the skiway, while the second is in the distance about to land).

The folks in Denver unleashed the new www.usap.gov Antarctic portal web site...some new looks for old stuff, and new features as well. Have a look.... Most of the Raytheon-related content including employment information is on a separate RPSC site, while the Antarctic Sun is here. The change to usap.gov also affected all of our computers on the ice...more fun for the IT folks.

The September 2005 issue of Popular Mechanics has an excellent article on the new station by the Jeff Rubin, the Antarctic editor of the Polar Times. Oh, Jeff is also the author of the new edition of the Lonely Planet guide to Antarctica. I've seen it, and you can too.

The icebergs that pestered McMurdo during the 2004-05 summer season seem to have moved out of the way, but not before B15A brushed a 3x3 square mile chunk off the Drygalski Ice Tongue (watch them!) Still, NSF made provisions for the Russian icebreaker Krasin to show up again in January 2006, this time in a primary role, with the Coast Guard as backup. Related news--in August 2005 a NSF committee released a significant report on Antarctic logistics--in addition to a discussion on icebreaker support, other recommendations include continuing development of the "road to Pole" traverse (which reached Pole this summer), development of a runway for heavy wheeled aircraft at Pole (something that's been studied and tried since the 1950s), and consideration of lighter-than-air craft for cargo delivery. Have a read for yourself (revised version). floored walls

cool!As of mid September the construction continued to move along at a great pace--the gym and adjacent rooms were being framed out and sheetrocked, while elsewhere the final wall covering was being put up in the berthing rooms and corridors (left, more of those colored wall tiles in the main B3 hallway just outside the new communications and office area). Outside the approaching sunrise drowned out the stars and brightened up our rooms--as of 7 September we could remove the covering from our windows since the light-sensitive astronomy experiments had been shut down.

We were blessed (?) with a chilly morning on 2 August--it happened to make it down to -110.7°F when I arose and decided to grab this picture (right). Opportunity for a few more folks to join the 300 club. Meanwhile, a Scott tent has been pitched near the Pole for those who desire the ultimate winter camping experience. No thanks...I stuck to looking at photos and guidebooks of New Zealand and Australia like many others are doing.

Late June brought the traditional Midwinters Day celebrations and greetings--here's our w/o photo greeting and celebration announcement...and here's how we partied!


party line

The first week in May 2005 brought the Antarctic Deep Freeze Association (ADFA) reunion in Biloxi, MS. This group consists of folks who came down during IGY, and this reunion marks the 50th anniversary of the original Operation Deep Freeze in 1955. One highlight of these gatherings is a telephone call to South Pole...this was the third such phone call I've been involved with, but this time I was at the Pole end of the line. Above left is a photo of winter manager Bill Henriksen talking to the group on the Iridium phone...and here's more info and pictures.

Oh, the weekend also brought the belated Cinco de Mayo celebration, complete with the first annual "BF5K"--an indoor running event complete with sponsors and appropriate libations for all...and Saturday evening marked the debut of "Al Dente" (concert poster) in the B-1 Lounge.


dinner is overthe hard truth at lastOkay...was Bill Spindler having too much fun at Pole to keep this page updated? Well...not exactly, but since my job involved taking pictures and writing about them every day, sometimes I, well.... There were other things going on, like slushies, Robert Schwarz's astronomy lectures, the Hash House Harriers (the southernmost drinking club with a running problem), and lots of special dinners for any occasion or none...meanwhile the construction crew made short work of the galley demolition (left), and biomed is gone as well (right).

"Astronomy on Ice" is the reason many researchers visit Pole nowadays, but Martin Pomerantz's new book with that title is the chronicle of his efforts, beginning in McMurdo in 1959 and at Pole in 1964, to establish the place as one of the world's finest astronomy sites. And a cosmic ray observatory. And a CMBR observing post. And a locus for long-term balloon flights.... Here's a 1 March press release about the book, which you can obtain from your favorite bookstore unless you happen to be wintering :( And here are a few more pages of information about Marty...

Okay, speaking of Pole history books, one with a more recent outlook has just been published by 2004 w/o Nick Johnson--with excellent reviews from the likes of the New York Times. Is Antarctica really a big dead place? Make up your own mind...

get on boardfly me to CalgaryAfter some poor weather caused a number of cancelled and boomeranged flights, the final LC-130's showed up on 15 February (left, passengers board the closing passenger flight). Some added fuel flights came later in the day. But the flying season didn't end until Friday 18 February when 4 Twin Otter finally were able to set out for Rothera and the next leg of their trip back to Canada (right, the second of the four aircraft is airborne, while the third is in the fuel pits). Left behind are 86 winterovers in the largest station ever (or at least for now, until the winter demolition of some of the domed station buildings begins). The winter crew includes 24 women and a large construction crew working to finish out the interior of B3 (the admin/comms/control portion of the station, the end closest to the skiway), and berthing wing A4 (behind the computer room).

The 2006 annual Antarctic Treaty Consultative Meeting ended on 23 June in Edinburgh, Scotland...and the detailed discussion stuff as now been made public in the "Final Report" section on the meeting home page. Unlike last year there is no dramatic Pole content. Some folks were unhappy that stronger action wasn't taken to limit tourism. But there was discussion about global warming (!) and complaints about the "road to Pole" traverse (Cape Argus news article). Another item discussed was the Hallett Station cleanup...the bulk fuel tank was demo'd, cleaned up and mostly removed in January 2006 (my copy of the report, which includes a map and some Hallett history).

After Adventure Networks' (ANI) sudden departure from the NGA travel business in 2003-04, operations returned to normal in 2004-05. For 2006-07 ANI again offered their full program including those $33,500 flights to Pole, trips to Mt. Vinson, and a variety of other stuff. Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions (ALE) is the arm of the organization operating in PA and on the ice. Meanwhile, Cerpolex/PolarCircle hasn't announced anything new; in fact their old web site that discussed Snow Buggy trips among other things, seems to have faded away.

Meanwhile, the second Ice Marathon and 100k were held on 13-16 December 2006 at PH with sixteen competitors. Weather conditions for the marathon were clear at first with later low cloud cover, light winds and 14°F/-10°C. The marathon winning time was 5:08:17; the 100k--12:55:06. The latter race was won by Richard Donovan. The first of these events was held in January 2006...a successor to the original South Pole Marathon that actually ended up at Pole in January 2002, with controversy. Entry fee for this year's event was $25,000 including transportation to the starting line. There will be another next year.

The Ice Marathon was held at Patriot Hills on 7 January 2006...there were nine marathon participants, with times ranging from 5:09 to 7:10, and race director Richard Donovan did a 100k in 15:43, the first such documented ultra event. Sounds like this turned out much better than the controversial South Pole Marathon of January 2002 (Sports Illustrated coverage and Brent Weigner's diary of the earlier event, which covered the last 26.2 miles to Pole). The 2006-07 event trip is scheduled for 10-18 December (ANI site) so it is not too early to start training.

Another interesting 2005-06 tour option--Travelquest again successfully completed their tour in conjunction with Sky and Telescope magazine. It featured a visit to the Patuxent Range meteorite collection area as well as an overnight stay at Pole.

The list of adventures for 2005-06 included some rather unusual ones. Now we know what actually happened: [check out the poles.com for more detail than I can keep up with]
Postponed! Wave Vidmar
had originally planned to come last year, but that didn't happen. This year the 41-year-old had planned to attempt the first American unsupported solo expedition from the McMurdo side (!). How's he getting to McMurdo and which glacier will he come up? We'll see maybe next year...Wave tried for the North Pole in 2004 but had to quit because of logistics problems.
Postponed! Icebird Expedition
is three Australians, Ben Deacon, Andrew McAuley and Patrick Spiers, they planned to use a newly designed steerable "kitesled" created by NZ designer Peter Lynn to cross the continent to Patriot Hills. The route to Pole was to be "a new route" which the team did not announce until they had full financial backing, which they did not get. They plan to test their sled next boreal spring and head for the Antarctic next season.
Postponed! Gus McLeod
who crossed the Drake twice on the way to Pole before turning around in February 2004, was trying again. He left Montgomery, MD Sunday 16 October in his retooled Firefly aircraft...and had to land 30 miles away with landing gear problems. And in early November he found contamination in the fuel systems...too difficult to clean out and still make it over Pole this summer. He'll think about heading north over the North Pole in the boreal spring and head south later. His single-engine Firefly now has a new turbocharger to give him the lift he needed last time when he hit icing conditions south of Marambio. No coverage of the current venture on his web site; here's a 3 November PRweb press release with more information.
Unsupported to the South Pole 2005
was two separate Norwegian teams of five and six which started from 82°S on opposite sides of the Foundation Ice Stream (60°W), south of the Ronne Ice Shelf. The five-person team was led by Rolf Bae, who visited Pole on the famed 2000-01 Norwegian Antarctic crossing, and included Norwegian Per Henrik Knudson, Austrian Wolfgang Melchor, German Ronald Krueger, and Britisher Cecile Krog. The route was about 140 miles shorter than the one from Hercules Inlet. Both groups arrived at Pole--the 5-man team on 28 December after 33 days, and the other team on the 31st. Rolf's team did a restart after the leader had to be evacuated with serious back injuries after a fall. After being flown out of Pole, several members of the groups headed off to climb Mt, Vinson.
Wang Yongfeng (CRI news article)
led an unofficial Chinese 7-person group that did a "last 120km" trip taking 9 days and arriving on 16 December. Here's an earlier 30 November embassy press release. A second Chinese group of six left on xx and arrived on 28 December (Xinhua press release).
Cancelled! Malaysia's Antarctic Expedition
twice postponed, was to consist of duo M Kamaruddin Md Isa and Encik Suhardi Alias. Their planned venture was to cross the continent from Blue One to Pole via Troll Station, then on to McMurdo, a total of 120 days, starting in November with resupply at Pole. Didn't happen.
Proyecto Cumbre (Summit Project)
was the Venezuelan team of five: Carlos Calderas, Marcus Tobia, Carlos Castillo, Martín Echevarría, and Marco Cayuso that wanted to be the first Venezuelans to ski to Pole, doing so unsupported from Hercules Inlet. The group's original goal was the Seven Summits; they have one more to go after the Pole venture. The team did a "last degree" North Pole trip in 2004 (Spanish language website). They started on 21 November; as of 13 January they were less than 2 degrees from Pole, but Carlos Castillo was evacuated with frostbite, thus ending the "unsupported" status for the remaining members of the team. The rest of the group reached Pole on the 27th.
is a 1996 7.3 liter diesel 14-passenger Ford E-series van, heavily modified into a 6x6 with solar panels and a 110-gallon fuel tank. This vehicle was flown to PH aboard a Russian cargo aircraft in November. There the 6-member team loaded up and headed for Pole. They actually arrived at Pole on 13 December after a nonstop 69-hour drive, they then planned a quick return drive. Here's a site with more about the vehicle. Hmmm, last year's Invesco Challenge wasn't able to get their wheeled vehicles much out of PH much less to Pole...but these guys did. No photos on their web site yet (or reports on their return trip).
Cancelled! Rob Porcaro
an Australian, originally planned this trip for 2003-04. He said he'd try this year--a solo trek along the traditional route from Hercules Inlet to Pole, and although he did a training trip in 2005 from Borneo to the North Pole, there was no word of his Antarctic venture. The purpose of the trek was, among other things, to raise awareness of depression (!) Rob, a former ad man and marketer, had a unique fundraising plan--he proposed to shoot the first TV commercial here. "Products such as whiskey or cleaning powder could make creative use of the icy location," he said.
A Norwegian kiting team,
Staale Samuelsen and Sverre Hollie 62, did a 19-day kite-assisted trip from Pole to PH, arriving on 18 December. 62-year-old Sverre has an artificial hip.
The Spanish (Tierras Polares) Transantarctic Expedition 
was a twice-postponed 3-man Spanish venture led by Ramón Larramendi, this year with Ignacio Oficialdegui, and Juanma Viu, to cross eastern Antarctica using a kite-powered sled. On 3 November 2005 they were landed at the Russian Novolasarevskaja station on the coast of Queen Maud Land, and they to started the following week for the Pole of Inaccessibility and the Geomagnetic Pole. The sled was a 17x10-foot catamaran, towed by a triangular "NASA" kite-sail (they have several up to 650 SF!), with a tent platform to allow the group to sleep in shifts en route. Apparently they did well with those high altitude wind conditions that have frustrated other ventures...as of 13 January they were done, having traveled 2800 miles in 63 days (they did not visit Pole). They were picked up by helicopter from the plateau and flown to an icebreaker offshore of Mirny. They had been heading "downhill" toward Mirny, but logistics prevented their completion of the venture on land. Here's another link (in Spanish); their expedition page with dispatches is no longer available.
Cancelled! SP1 South Pole Solo
was actually to be 2 separate Australian unassisted solo treks from Hercules Inlet--one by Rob Porcaro (above) and the other by Matt McFadyen. Matt went with Rob to the North Pole in April. Nothing heard since...
Cancelled! Eric Philips
veteran of the original 1988-89 Icetrek expedition, in December 2004 proposed a traverse from Pole across Dome A (Argus) to the Avery Ice Shelf--the first traverse of Australian Antarctic Territory. Nothing else ever was announced...
Postponed! Pole to Pole 2005
is a proposal by Martyn Williams to travel from the South Pole across several continents to the North Pole now planned to begin in December 2006. The Antarctic route is from Pole to the coast north of PH, where the group is to be picked up by boat for a trip to Cape Town. The team is "an international team of young adults" which has not yet been announced.
Børge Ousland
a Norwegian who has ventured to Pole privately twice in the past, was soliciting 4-6 participants for a "last 2 degree" ski trip in November/December. He actually found one taker, Fredrick Syberg, of Norway, and they arrived on 8 December after doing the 200 km in 9 days.
Rune Gjeldnes
a Norwegian, successfully completed the longest trans-Antarctic crossing--2988 miles. On 3 November he was landed at the Russian Novolasarevskaja station on the coast of Queen Maud Land, and he set out on the sixth. He's crossing the continent via Troll and Pole, to Terra Nova Bay--descending the Priestley Glacier. He arrived at Pole early on 21 December and only rested one day before continuing on. He reached Terra Nova on 3 February after a struggle with crevasse fields--he is now the first person to cross both poles unsupported (he did an Arctic crossing in 2000).
Cancelled? Sky Odyssey
is a 2-part Russian venture--the first part was an international youth expedition, flown to KGI by the Chilean Air Force in March, where they participated in games (to promote Moscow's bid for the 2012 Olympics) and communicated with the ISS. The second phase was supposed to be an IL-76 flight from Moscow via Libya and Cape Verde, Chile, to the South Pole, where the participants were to do flights by ultralight and hot-air balloon, skydive, and drive ATV's around the place, test new cosmonaut emergency suits and gear, etc. Note that this may be one of those groups that considers the "South Pole" to be anywhere south of PA, and that I have yet to see an IL-76 aircraft with skis. Hmmmmm...
Numis Polar Challenge
was a 5-man British team led by Antarctic veteran Geoff Somers--they plan a 170-mile walk to Pole along Scott's route. They were flown from PH to the starting point (where the last of Scott's supporting party turned around in 1911)...and the venture was a recreation of Scott's trip--clothing, food, sledge, navigational techniques, etc. (well, they had a GPS for backup). The team arrived at Pole on 14 January after a 17-day trip.
Doug Stoup
had planned a November 2005 ascent of the south face of Mt. Tyree (the second highest Antarctic mountain at 15,918 feet) but that may have been postponed. In February/March he's heading for Bellingshausen on KGI with a robot from Stanford. Hmmm, someday perhaps!?

The 2005 Antarctic Treaty Consultative Meeting (28 ATCM, 6-17 June 2005) in Stockholm included further extensive discussions on tourism activity in Antarctica, including possible restrictions on the construction of permanent infrastructure to support land-based tourism, and preparation of site guidelines for visitors to popular spots. Here's the treaty secretariat home page, the final report page, and document page which includes links to other meeting papers. Specific documents that may be of interest to folks here include recognition of Amundsen's buried tent at Pole as a protected Antarctic historic site; the draft environmental evaluation for the new BAS station at Halley; a graphical report on tourism activities prepared by the Antarctic and Southern Ocean Commission (ASOC); liability for environmental emergencies; the management plan for Scott's Discovery Hut at McMurdo (the plan, Map A, and Map B); the 2004-05 Chinese Dome A expedition (and medevac to Pole); the Russian recovery of the Antonov-3T aircraft from Pole, and the proposal for Pole to be a "Specially Managed Area" (maps 1, 2, 3 and 4).

The big summer construction milestone on 30 January 2005 was the granting of conditional occupancy of wings B1 and B2 just in time for the winterovers to move into B1, and the met office to become the first occupant of the new science lab B2.

The first IceCube drill hole was successfully completed on 25 January, after the first attempt had to be abandoned after reaching 949m. Additional delays resulted from an unfortunate injury to veteran Swedish driller Sven Lidström, requiring his urgent medevac. The successful hole was moved 8m away from the first attempt. Later in the week, further drilling was suspended for the season, so as to insure enough time for drill camp winterization.

all doneAt left, a milestone. On 19 January the last steel was erected on the new elevated station (caption/credits and more photos). And a couple weeks later the design team granted conditional occupancy to B1 and B2 wings...the mattresses and pillows are now in the new berthing rooms, and now that winter has begun, the w/o's are living in them too.

Meanwhile, the iceberg demolition derby continued. Ice around B-15A was breaking up rapidly. As for the ships...on Friday 21 January 2005, Krasin met up with the Polar Star at the ice edge . On the 23rd she was escorting the tanker Paul Buck. On the 23rd there were 4 ships visible from Arrival Heights--these two plus the Polar Star and the Nathaniel B Palmer. The icebreakers enlarged the channel, the NBP was at the pier on the 25th, and the tanker tied up the next day and offloaded, departing Saturday 29 January...only to have engine problems on the way north. The American Tern reached McMurdo on 2 February and began offload the next morning.


at rest Krasin (left, seen parked off McM early on 29 January 2005, I took this photo while waiting for transportation for my flight to Pole) is 442 feet long with a full load displacement of 20,190 (long) tons, slightly larger than the Coast Guard's Healy. It is electrically powered using 9 diesel engines, total rated at 36,000 shp, with 3 screws, a maximum open-water speed of 19.5 knots, and an icebreaking capability of 6 feet. (By comparison, the Polar Star stats: 399 feet long, 13,190 tons, 3 screws, 75,000 shp with gas turbines (18,000 shp with diesel electric power), 18 knots, 21' ice; and the Healy: 420 feet long, 16,000 tons, 30,000 shp, twin screws, 17 knots, 8' ice.) More information and stats on the Krasin are available on the FESCO shipping company web site (Polar Star stats) (Healy stats).

rocks and shoalsMeanwhile, the Polar Star blasted through about 82 nautical miles of ice to reach Hut Point on 30 December 2004. That work so far was in the old channel--7-8 foot first and second year ice. Mother Nature recently helped with warm temps and a lot of volcanic dust to help absorb solar radiation; more recently the fast ice west of B15A seems to be breaking up, helped by the B-15A's bumping and grinding. A lot of 20+ foot multi-year stuff had to be cleared to provide the full channel for the cargo ships. At left is the track into McMurdo, north of Cape Bird, threading between C-16 and B-15K. And at right is a clip from the 19 January NASA MODIS image (more)--the most extensive site I've found--that clearly shows the ice conditions. The Polar Star was sidelined at the ice wharf in early January with hydraulic oil leaks on the port and starboard shaft hubs. Divers worked to retorque the bolts on all 3 hubs, they finished on the 20th, and the breaker went back at work (at reduced power due to turbine problems). She may yet see some yard time for some more repairs on the screw hubs. By the way, the tourist icebreaker Khlebnikov was sighted hanging around near Cape Royds the first week in January. That's no slouch of an icebreaker either (Khlebnikov stats), touchdown! but unfortunately the tourists on that trip couldn't make it in to visit McMurdo or Scott Base. She came down again the last week in January and landing conditions were more successful. NSF is taking a look at utilizing her in future years.

fly meCoincidentally with the Krasin arrangement, a second Russian team went to Pole to recover the Antonov-3T aircraft that was stranded in 2001-02. This is considered by NSF to be an official Russian Antarctic Program activity. An Ilyushin-76 aircraft arrived in Christchurch 21 December 2004 from Darwin with 35 on board, including mechanics, engineers, a film crew, and a replacement engine. The aircraft left for McMurdo at 1000 Monday 27 December, arriving at the Pegasus runway about 1530 (above left). claim checked bags at the gateThe engineering team continued to Pole on an LC-130. Their ambitious schedule called for a test flight on 4 January, return to McM for disassembly on 5 January, and departure to ChCh with the AN-3T inside the Ilyushin on 6 January. They were ahead of schedule--the replacement engine was been installed, run-up, and given multiple successful test flights beginning on 3 January. But the flight to McMurdo was delayed until 11 January, held up by bad weather there. Finally the AN-3T left Pole around noon on the 11th, arriving at McMurdo at 1910 (left). Meanwhile, the Ilyushin had arrived from Christchurch earlier in the day. The AN-3T was disassembled and put aboard the Ilyushin, which arrived back in Christchurch at 2030 on Wednesday the 12th. Here is complete coverage with photos. Above right is one of Seth White's photos of the AN-3 taken in January 2004 (more photos). The Russians were fortunate...not too long after these photos were taken, the fog rolled in...

And the icebergs,...watch them for yourself...if you can figure out what they're going to do, you have your Wisconsin PhD all sewed up. Here are the links: NASA MODIS;   UW SSEC;   RPSC;   and NOAA National Ice Center. NASA thought B-15A would crunch the Drygalski Ice Tongue by 15 January, but the big crunch didn't happen until April, and that was more of a nuzzle. In late December B-15A suddenly moved much closer to the Drygalski Ice Tongue, 10 miles away. After almost stopping, it moved again to less than 4 miles away, where it stopped again. Here is a 19 January NASA news feature with crystal-clear images and an animated time lapse sequence of the midsummer lurches. Crunch time. Was there any danger to folks? No, according to this 16 December 2004 NSF press release. But it was worried that the ice conditions might wipe out much of the penguin breeding activity on Ross Island.

big bergy bitThe berg (left) is 80 miles long by 20 wide--much smaller than it started out when it broke off the Ross Ice Shelf in March 2000, but still quite big enough to keep things interesting. Since this web site tries to keep things in a historical perspective, have a look at what happened in December 1965 when iceberg met icebreaker...

At the end of November 2004 the north end of B-15A (or B-15, or, well, the big one) was firmly grounded. Still there was concern expressed by researcher Doug MacAyeal in a detailed interview in the 28 November Antarctic Sun. At that time Doug felt the real problem would not arise until 2005. But that was then. In January B-15A started to move north quickly toward the ice tongue and rotate a bit counterclockwise. Doug's iceberg page includes daily visible and infrared photos with commentary...also Denver posts satellite images daily.

late to the ball

As the weather warmed up, outside work started up in earnest--one of the first projects was a large new radome to cover the SP MARISAT-GOES antenna (right, more photos). Meanwhile, 12 December saw the new Counting House successfully towed from its El Dorm location to the new site amidst the IceCube array. And later in the month the steel for A4 went up.

da planeThe last weekend in November 2004 brought two tragically linked anniversaries...the first being the 75th year after Byrd's historic flight over Pole on 28-29 November 1929; the second being the tragic crash of the New Zealand DC-10 into Mt. Erebus on 28 November 1979 (timeline link to photos/information). The latter event was commemorated with a 28 November visit to the crash site by NZ dignitaries, and a 29 November 2004 ceremony at Scott base which included Sir Edmund Hillary. Ed also spoke to a crowd of over 250 folks in Building 155. Earlier that week, Hillary had spoken out against the "road to Pole" traverse calling it "terrible" (BBC news article). The Air Force made the official Byrd commemorative flight to Pole a couple weeks early on the 17th (photo at left from Darryn Schneider); this event was featured in a major NSF news release and special report.

Speaking of the traverse, after negotiating some soft snow and crevasse fields at the south end of the Ross Ice Shelf, they quickly made it to the top of the Leverett Glacier the first week in January. At last report they'd gotten about 200 miles from Pole before turning around and heading back to McMurdo....(map and archived story).

iced fog?The first two LC-130 flights came in as planned on Friday, 22 October 2004 (at right, the opening flight, photo from Dana Hrubes). This was a day ahead of the original schedule, in -68°F weather. A third flight on Saturday brought the population up to 176! By 3 November 32 flights had been completed--probably a record. Unfortunately the cold weather had restricted cargo to single-pallet loads, which left out all of those IceCube drill camp modules. A total of 326 flights had been planned for the 2004-05 season, and things remained on schedule until early January when bad weather put things way behind. By the way, many of the early summer folks--old w/o's and new arrivals--suffered with severe flu-like illnesses for a bit...

Winter construction finished up ahead of schedule, with B1 (science) and B2 (berthing/emergency facilities) were virtually complete except for some flooring, furniture, and punch list items. The additional berthing (38 rooms in B1) is important as el dorm was gutted and moved for IceCube, and other Dome berthing in the annex and biomed is unavailable this winter. Summer activity also included the first phase of a new cryogenic facility to improve the winter storage of helium, as well as the massive crew and camp for the first phase of IceCube.

Remember all those Florida hurricanes? Pensacola was hard hit, and one of the casualties was Que Sera Sera, that VX-6 aircraft that was the first to land at Pole on 31 October 1956. The R4D, which was parked in back of the Naval Aviation Museum, lost a wing in the storm...Joe Hawkins has the damage documented with NOAA photos. As of July 2006 no repairs had been made. Here's some photos of Que Sera Sera in better days...

In addition to the webcam, the NOAA CMDL group has made significant upgrades to the main web site, including improved science links and some excellent photo galleries from the last few years, including those Jon Berry postcards. And elsewhere, the Canadian online comic strip "userfriendly" ventured to Pole featuring 2004 w/o's Sara Kaye, Henry Malmgren and Ethan Dicks...here's Sara's collection with links to all the strips.

In other national program news, Chile's 12-member Army/Navy/Air Force scientific traverse from PH to Pole (and back) arrived at Pole 1 December. They had been scheduled to depart for the return trip on the weekend. The project has support from 2 Chilean Air Force C-130's as well as ANI; the military set up a temporary support base at PH. Projects include deep ice coring and other climate/global warming studies. Support equipment includes a crane-equipped Swedish Berco TL-6 "snow cat" as well as a Twin Otter (MercoPress news article).

The Chinese national program successfully completed a traverse from their Zhongshan Station on the coast (69°S-76°E, about 60 miles southwest of Davis) to Argus Dome (81°S-77°E, also known as Dome A), which at an altitude of 13,250 feet (4,039m) (altitude according to the Chinese who made the first ascent) is the highest point on the icecap. The team arrived on 18 January (Explorersweb news article and a report by the Chinese delegation at the June 2005 Antarctic Treaty meeting (ATCM); but the trip was not without difficulty. Engineer Gai Junxian suffered chest pains from the extreme altitude (11 January Peoples Daily article), and was medevaced to Pole on 8 January by Twin Otter. Pole physician Christian Otto made the trip to Argus Dome along with South Dakota researcher Jihong Cole-Dai who acted as translator (NSF press release with photos and Chinese report from the ATCM); the patient had to stay a few days at Pole due to bad weather before he could be flown north to McM and Christchurch. The Chinese are considering a permanent station on the site by 2010 (China Daily news article); accordingly a delegation from the Chinese national program visited Pole on 2 February to have a look at the new elevated station. Meanwhile, the traverse returned to Zhongshan Station, arriving on 7 February (Peoples Daily article).

The 2004-05 expedition list...another fairly successful year, but with some surprising postponements and cancellations...

ABANDONED Ice Maidens
is an Australian female team--Sandra Floate, Michele Bloomcamp, and Noelene Weightman, planning an unsupported trip from Hercules Inlet. Like some of the other groups, they were in PA at the end of October, but they had to wait for lost baggage (including their unique kayak-style sleds), so they missed the ALE flight to Patriot Hills on 1 November. They finally started on 20 November, they gave up on the 27th because their bodies didn't adapt well to the cold...
Antarctica Solo Expedition 2004
is Datin Paduka Sharifah Mazlina S. A Kadir, a 38-year-old sports lecturer and the former third member of the now-postponed Malaysian expedition. On 9 December she began her ski-sailing trip from Pole to PH, with ALE's Mike Sharp. They averaged 10 miles/day for the first 5 days, and completed the trip to Hercules Inlet on 31 December SP time.
PARTIALLY ABANDONED "expedition trans-antarctica" (now renamed the Invesco Perpetual Challenge),
a British group, planned a 2-team supported approach--a 4-man ski team started from the Ross Ice Shelf at the base of the Axel Heiberg Glacier--completing the first successful ascent since Amundsen's in 1911. The second team was to have started for Pole from Hercules Inlet driving two 4x4 Land Rovers towing sleds. Unfortunately, this group was unable to configure their wheeled equipment (!) and sleds to keep them from sinking into the soft snow, so after 3 weeks at PH, on 30 November they abandoned their portion of the venture. The ski team continued on to a resupply at Pole, arriving safely on 22 December. They continued to Hercules Inlet, ariving successfully (and quickly) on 11 January. Ski team leader Patrick Woodhead and Canadian Northwinds guide Paul Landry came to Pole as part of the White Desert venture in 2002-03. The team also included Alastair Vere Nicoll and David de Rothschild. The vehicle team spent time near PH testing equipment.
Kites on Ice"
is Paul's wife Matty McNair, two of their children, and British couple Hilary and Conrad Dickinson. On 2 November they underway on a planned 72-day outing, skiing unsupported to Pole and returning with kite assistance. After some food rationing, they arrived at Pole on 24 December. They headed back north the next day, with the kites pulling them an incredible 52 miles on the 25th. They finished the return trip successfully around New Years.
Another Northwinds-guided group was led by Denise Martin,
also part of the ALE team. Denise went to the North Pole in 1997 with Matty McNair and the McVitie's Penguin Polar Relay. The group received one resupply in the Thiel Mountains and a second late in the journey. Her group arrived on the ice 1 November. The four original members were...
...the Scot100 adventure
accountants Craig Mathieson and his colleague Fiona Taylor announced in January that they planned a £1 million charity walk from Hercules Inlet to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Scottish National Antarctic Expedition of explorer William Spiers Bruce. After a fine start Fiona was forced to quit on 8 November due to "chronic hypothermia." Craig continued south.
...ABANDONED Owen Jones
an investment banker working in Japan, decided to out of the group on 8 December due to serious Achilles' tendon problems.
...and Hannah McKeand,
a British adventurer who was a third of the way through her planned adventure year--Afghanistan, Pole, and a round-the-world sailing race.

There was another 3-person team underway, Northwinds guide Devon McDiarmid with clients Stewart Smith, an attorney (and 7-summiter) from Waco, Texas, and Linda Beilharz, who became the first Australian woman to trek to Pole. But after Devon badly cut his hand on 12 November, he was forced to withdraw...Stewart and Linda joined Denise Martin's group. All reached Pole on 29 December.
 
ABANDONED Ole Martin Martinsen (Norwegian language site)
a 57-year-old Norwegian, departed on a solo unsupported trip from PH, but he also gave up due to Achilles' tendon issues--he was taken back to PH on the same plane as Owen. He'd been planning to go a year earlier, but Borge Ousland and Liv Arnesen suggested he not wait...(another Norwegian news site with more detail)
Anoushka Kachelo
age 23, wanted to be the youngest woman, as well as the first Pakistani, to trek to Pole. Earlier in 2004 she completed a last degree trip to the North Pole. She had planned to travel as part of an ALE-guided trip from Hercules Inlet, but there was no recent word of her venture.
Polar Challenge 2004
is actually a British "last degree" walk sponsored by West Nottinghamshire College. They arrived at Pole on 12 December after meeting up with the northbound Chilean scientific traverse.
Marek Kaminski,
no stranger to Pole, is bringing 15-year-old Jasiek Mela (who lost an arm and a leg in an electric shock) and filmer Wojciech Ostrowski on a "last 100 nm" trip from 88°-20'S. They started on 16 December and finished up around the 28th. Jasiek visited the North Pole earlier in 2004.
Doug Stoup
was to be back on the ice in November, but that apparently didn't happen. In October he was climbing in the Everest region. Hmmm. Someday perhaps!?
POSTPONED Strive South
Briton Caroline Wilton, also 23, had the same "youngest woman" ambition to walk to Pole from Hercules Inlet; she was to go with a guided group.
POSTPONED The Spanish (Tierras Polares) Transantarctic Expedition
led by Ramón Larramendi, with Francisco Soria and Sebastian Alvaro, was another venture postponed from last year, to cross the continent from the former Belgian King Baudouin station site (70°S-24°E) to Dumont D'Urville via the Pole of Inaccessibility, passing perhaps 700 miles east of Pole. They planned to use a unique 17x10-foot catamaran sled, towed by a triangular "NASA" kite-sail (up to 375 SF!), with a tent platform to allow the group to sleep in shifts en route (!). Based on tests on the Greenland plateau, they expected to average 150+ miles per day. Hmmm, the altitude there is over 12,000 feet, oh well.
POSTPONED South Pole Solo
Wave Vidmar, who successfully reached the North Pole unsupported earlier in 2004, was in training to be the first American to solo unsupported from Hercules Inlet to Pole. The 2004-05 trip didn't happen...he plans to try again in 2005-06.
POSTPONED Malaysia's Antarctic Expedition
now consisting of duo M Kamaruddin Md Isa and Encik Suhardi Alias, were to try their postponed venture across the continent from Blue One to Pole via Troll Station, then on to McMurdo, a total of 120 days with resupply at Pole. They were scheduled to fly south to PH and Blue One in mid-November.
POSTPONED Scott's Challenge
was Pete Goss and Alan Chambers, two ex-Royal Marines planned an unsupported round trip from the McMurdo side...this would have been the first venture in a few years to follow the "footsteps." This venture was postponed from last year (BBC article).
Gus McLeod
announced in mid-2004 that he'd try his circumnavigation again in his Firefly aircraft, reworked with a new turbo and auxiliary fuel tanks. This time he's heading across the North Pole first, then down to Australia, from where he'll head east across the Pacific. His Pole flight will be a round trip from Marambio. Mothing new on the web site, who knows if it will happen. Here's the July 2004 news article.

The Antarctic Treaty Consultative Meeting (ATCM, 23 May-4 June 2004) in Cape Town resulted in plans for stricter rules on private travel, to include insurance and emergency contingency plans; some of the regulations were imposed for the 2004-05. Here's the treaty secretariat home page, and the meeting/final report page, which includes links to the meeting papers including tourism measures among the other meeting decisions. Also note this news story from South Africa.

After Adventure Networks' (ANI) sudden departure from the NGA travel business in 2003, things settled back in under the new ownership structure, and for 2004-05 ANI was again offering their full program including those $33,000 flights to Pole, trips to Mt. Vinson, and a variety of other stuff. Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions (ALE) is the arm of the organization operating in PA and on the ice. Meanwhile, Cerpolex/PolarCircle didn't announce anything new about the previously proposed recovery of the Antonov-3 aircraft (which they were not involved with), but they did announce a slate of offered ventures that didn't happen, including a 3-day drive to Pole in some updated 8x8 Snow Buggies.

One interesting specialty tour for 2004-05 was being offered by Travelquest featuring a visit to the Patuxent Range meteorite collection area as well as Pole. Didn't see them either...

The Norwegians are upgrading Troll Station for year-round operations, with a winter crew of 7, beginning in 2005 after a February dedication visit by Queen Sonja. There are future plans for a 10,000-foot blue ice runway.

touchdown2004-05 was the last season that C-141 aircraft were used for ChC-McM flights (USAF press release). Meanwhile, winfly (C-17 flights) happened successfully beginning on 20 August 2004--here are some pictures. Meanwhile, the late August 2004 weekends at Pole brought the art show, another band performance, twilight, lousy weather (but no records), some clowning   around, and running out of helium...

Tim Coffey, age 45, died on 28 July 2004 after a 70' fall from a radar tower he was working on near Nain, Labrador (on the north coast). Tim was the 1996 site manager; more recently he returned for work on the SPRESSO project. He's also been to Summit. Here's his obituary from the Concord, NH Monitor newspaper.

The cyberterrorism redux continues. A bit more commentary published on the Register on 19 August 2004...seems that the DASI servers got broken into two months before the much publicized May 2003 Romanian exploit. And the folks at Slashdot had fun with it. This all started with politics...the U. S. Justice Department issued a report revealing new details, outlined in a 14 July Newsweek online article. Hmmm. This web site will stay out of the political debate, but I wonder how much money those Romanians could have gotten for all that AMANDA data. Oh yes, the original FBI report and the news article by thepoles.com are still around.

 watch me!July 2004 was the coldest one on record--the average was -88.4°F/-66.9°C, beating the old record by more than half a degree F. This was the second coldest month ever, dipping below -100°F nine times (and the barometric pressure almost set a new record low as well). The coldest was -107.9°F/-77.7°C on the 21st (right). This provided ample opportunity for the 300 club, which had about 35 partakers (thanks to Kris and Dana for the data).

Jerry Marty was interviewed by Jeff Rubin for an article appearing in the June 2004 Polar Times. Jerry reaffirmed that the construction project remained on schedule and successful, including a head start on the last 2 wings. And additional funding and design tweaking means that the completed station will have not 110, not 150, but 154 beds! 2004-05 will see erection completion and enclosure of A4 and B4, and 2005 will probably be the last winter that people live in the dome. What of the dome? Representatives of the dome vendor and the Seabees will visit next season to evaluate the return of at least part of the dome for the Seabee museum. By the way, in addition to being the Antarctic editor of the Polar Times, Jeff Rubin is also the author of that Lonely Planet guidebook to Antarctica...

 drop in for dinnerMidwinters Day 2004 brought the traditional greeting and a group photo in the old station. Old station? Well, plans are still being discussed to bring a piece of the dome back, with perhaps even an ATCO building or two that we can use for reunion photos. Hmmm. Glen K has collected this page of invitations and greetings from around the continent. And the Antarctic Sun published its first midwinter edition which just so happens to feature our holiday message from 1977...

NSF has significantly enhanced and updated its home page and web site...for example, they've made a good collection of multimedia available on one page (but some of the items that were here earlier can no longer be found). The list includes content from all divisions of NSF; one item still here is this video on Antarctic logistics which includes mid-90s seismo vault footage and a balloon launch from the old BIT...

Things remained quiet and smooth before midwinters day...construction was smoothly on schedule, the temperature dipped below that magic -73.3°C for the first time...and Ronald Reagan's death in California brings a commemoration. Meanwhile, the food growth chamber (greenhouse) is starting to be green. Here's hoping, since it is one of the more visible bits of station construction, close to the store.

half mast? Thanks Kris Perry!On 16 May 2004, McMurdo was hit with the worst storm in perhaps 30 years. One example of the damage at the Chalet is seen at right. Since folks keep sending pictures and information I haven't seen elsewhere, I've added 2 pages of pictures and coverage.

Scientists from a Hamilton College-led team announced the discovery of a new undersea volcano just east of the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula. Here's more information and links.

In early April 2004 there was a fast McMurdo medevac with multiple medical cases. This time the aircraft of choice was a USAF C-141 out of March Air Reserve Base. It arrived in Christchurch Friday 10 April in the morning (local time) and made the round trip to the Pegasus ice runway on Saturday. Weather conditions there were clear with a temperature of -13°F. The aircraft returned to ChCh at 1930 with 3 medical cases on board. The RNZAF had a C-130 on standby for backup. The three patients were given oxygen and IV's during the flight, and are now being treated in Christchurch hospitals, while the aircraft has returned to California. The most serious ailment involves stomach problems. Not many more details which is the norm of late, but it is interesting to note that two replacement w/o's went south on the aircraft. Here is the 8 April NSF press release. A 10 April 2004 article from the Age (Melbourne) has additional detail.

Why the medevac subject was brought up here...the Navy (which contracts for aviation technical services) has been soliciting proposals for new runway lights for such an eventuality at Pole. They must be quickly deployable and provide standard VFR conditions for a Twin Otter at -100°F. Hmmm, whatever happened to all those Coleman lanterns? And back in Greeley, Colorado, the British balloonist David Hempleman-Adams (who has previously walked to Pole) bagged the open balloon high altitude record at 42,000 feet on 23 March. Afterwards, after dealing with the FAA--seems he may not have had a proper US pilot license or flight plan, he said he was considering a flight over Antarctica (David then went out for beer, and the FAA later declined to press charges or penalties).

sastrugi riderPole is turning into a cultural center! The 2003 winter brought a major art show and Oktoberfest (check out Robert Schwarz's photo gallery!) and the 2003-04 summer saw the first annual film festival, with some serious works. Turns out that Tyler Regan's short "Surf's Up" got shown at the Arts Centre in ChCh. What's next, the opera? Tyler and Brad Halter, thanks for the poster!

The station closed on 15 February 2004 as planned. There had been 332 flights scheduled...and after the last flight departed there had been a record 329--essentially a successful flight season for a change, and a record (3 more flights than the previous record). Unlike 2003, the ship offload was timely, so fresh supplies (and beer) got delivered. The summer population averaged around 240. Now there are 75 w/o's...yet another record.

The bigdeadplace site has a detailed interview, by an unnamed Polie, with Jon Johanson, the Australian pilot who overflew Pole in December. Here are my details and pictures of his venture.

Ruth Siple, wife of the late Paul Siple (veteran of two Byrd expeditions and the first Pole SSL) died on 23 January in Virginia. Ruth was the long-time writer and editor of the Antarctican Society newsletters (more information and photo).

And Virginia Fiennes, wife of Ranulph who led the 1981 Transglobe Expedition visit to Pole, died in England. Virginia wintered with the team close to the coast near Sanae; she ran comms for the 3-man team that crossed the continent. In November 2003 Ranulph ran 7 marathons in 7 days on, er, 6+ continents (the scheduled Antarctic run was relocated to the Falklands due to bad weather). She was diagnosed with cancer the day after Ran returned from the marathon venture.

The strange aviation events didn't end for a few days after closing. Gus McLeod flew south again, landing at Marambio Sunday 15 February SP time. He then took off for Pole but turned around and landed after weight and icing problems. After waiting a few more days, he returned north on 19 February. Gus's web site now has the details and info on his flights north. On his first trip south he left Ushuaia on 7 February SP time for a round trip overflight of Pole. After some strong winds and icing problems he landed at Rothera...and then went back north. After trying unsuccessfully to go back to his original plan--a crossing of the continent with refueling stops at Marambio and McMurdo, he tried to do the round trip overflight of Pole, with a possible refueling stop at Marambio and return to Ushuaia. He had deleted formerly planned stops at Diego Garcia and Thule, which, like McMurdo, I can attest are hard to get landing permission for. Here's a CNN article about his start. Polly Vacher stated she wouldn't sell him fuel unless he had official landing rights at McMurdo. Gus first headed south from College Park, MD in December 2003. After engine repairs in Florida and more problems in Latin America, he continued south to Ushuaia. He, like Jon Johanson, has a kit-built aircraft, a modified Velocity with a canard wing design and a single push-prop.

Pole construction continued hot and heavy and on schedule to the end of the season. Wing B1, one of the back wings on the second pod, was topped out on 20 January (photo at left). This will house more berthing and the emergency power plant. And wing B3, the last wing in the main east-west "leading edge" was topped out in December. closing in on PoleThis will house admin, comms, and some science, as well as the main entrance since it is close to the taxiway. B1, B2, and B3 are scheduled for completion next summer. A design team was on site at the end of January to inspect A3, the new medical and computer facility, (which was officially open for occupancy on 29 January) as well as A1 and A2 which were occupied last March. Also this summer the freshie shack and weight room in the dome were demo'd...next summer the old biomed building in the arch will go away. Here's the schedule map and lots of construction photos. Science-related work included the relocation of the AASTO module and telescope mount from the dark sector to the clean air sector near ARO for a new project to search for extrasolar planet. Oh yes, the webcam got moved too and is back online. Planning and cargo shipments for ICECUBE, the "super-AMANDA" happened. And another neat science project was Tumbleweed, that set loose a 2m "beach ball" with prototype instrumentation inside; it was propelled by the wind for 40 miles (project web site and NSF press release). And someone stole the 2003 Pole marker...

The "Polar First" helicopter that visited Pole on Wednesday 12/17/03 (Pole photos and more info here) crashed 120 miles north of PH at 1400 Pole time (0100Z) Saturday 20 December. Both crew members were injured, they were flown back to PH by ALE and were flown on to Punta Arenas later the same day, where they are now recuperating. Here's their current web site. June 2004 update...Jennifer and Colin flew to the RAF base in Kinloss, Scotland to meet the rescue coordinators Antarctic Connection story).

Other Antarctic transportation news from December: One Korean was killed when Zodiacs capsized in bad weather on Sunday 7 December 2003. The first boat with three men capsized while returning to base (King Sejong station near the south east end of King George Island) after seeing colleagues off at the Marsh runway. The three made it to a nearby island in their own vessel and were rescued by a Chilean helicopter. But a second boatload of 5 rescuers also overturned, and one of them died. The other four swam to shore and made it to a temporary shelter hut, where they were rescued by a Russian patrol. Here's a Korean English language news article. At Rothera, Polly Vacher, departed for Marambio on the 19th and flew on to Ushuaia the next day. She had to turn her Piper Dakota around earlier this month due to excessive headwinds on the way to McMurdo. She cancelled her transpolar flight and continued to NZ via the US. She arrived in Auckland around 30 January 2004. She let Jon Johanson use some of her fuel cached at Scott Base.

The LC-130 that collapsed a nose ski on 5 December 2003 while taking off from a Ford Range (77°14'S. 142°24'W) field site was repaired and flown back to town on 12/14. They had just left a fuel cache for a climatology field party. The aircraft in Christchurch from which repair parts have been borrowed has also been repaired. And a helo suffered a "hard landing" near the Beardmore. NSF press release.

The 2003 USAP traverses: the science traverse that left Pole Thanksgiving weekend made it to AGO4 and Taylor Valley as planned. This was a continuation of the multiyear ITASE traverse which started at Byrd in November 1999.

Meanwhile, the Pole "proof of concept" venture ran into heavy soft snow and very slow going. They turned around on 16 January, 430 miles from the starting point, short of the planned destination at the Leverett Glacier. They made it back to McMurdo on 24 January.

The trekkers...first Ilyushin flight to PH took some of them in on 11/30...the first tourist flight showed up at Pole dropping off some trekkers heading north. Adventure Networks (ANI)'s Antarctic operations have been sold to the new PH operator. What did this mean for the tourists, trekkers, and charity events that showed up at Pole? Actually, things worked well.

October 2003 opening flights were almost on schedule...the first two LC-130's showed up on the afternoon of Saturday 10/25, after a day's weather delay. Meanwhile, 4 Twin Otters had arrived the previous day on their way to McMurdo for summer support of field camps. This year a total of seven Twin Otters transited Pole on their way to support USAP field projects as well as Italian/French operations at Concordia (Dome C). And there were 332 LC-130 flights scheduled for Pole--329 actually made it!

Expeditions for 2003-04...it actually turned out to be a fairly successful year for NGA's and tourists, although some treks were announced with fanfare but didn't happen. ANI (Adventure Networks International) announced on July 24 that they were canceling all Antarctic operations for the 2003-04 season. This was from the departing former owner and operator Anne Kershaw, who has since dropped out of sight. This disrupted plans of this year's tourists and adventurers.

After the demise of ANI's operations, two organizations stepped into the breach, struggling to line up aircraft, environmental permits, employees, and customers. Antarctica Logistics and Expeditions LTD comprised of many ANI veterans (August 15 press release, a MS Word document), and Cerpolex (Polar Circle). Cerpolex has previously supported nongovernmental and program activity including activities at Borneo (the floating camp near the North Pole) and the original abortive 2002 Antonov-3 flight to Pole (the 2002 Antonov-3 story from Scott Smith). In September 2003, Cerpolex announced that they had been tasked by the Russians to recover that aircraft in 2003-04, along with support of skiing and climbing expeditions. They were to use an updated model of the Snow Buggies. In mid-October Cerpolex announced they were pulling out of the business for this season, so the aircraft will spend another season on the berm where it has been since January 2002. Here are details of their 2004-05 plans including tourist support, the aircraft recovery, and more info on the Snow Buggies.

AL&E, meanwhile had a busy schedule of climbers and skiers. On 13 November 2003 they announced the purchase of the Antarctic support assets, equipment, and logistics operations of ANI from Grand Expeditions (press release). AL&E opened Patriot Hills with two Twin Otters in mid November, but their first Ilyushin-76 flight to PH wasn't scheduled until November 25, (and didn't make it until the 30th). This was later than some of the trekkers had originally planned start their journeys. AL&E has retained the ANI name and web site, which has been freshly updated with the 2004-05 program as well as a roster of all customers they've ever taken to Pole or the Vinson Massif.

Gus Mcleod
another private pilot with a small single-engined experimental aircraft, set out from Baltimore in January 2004 with plans to fly across Antarctica over the pole to McMurdo and on to NZ. Since he couldn't get landing rights at McM, he later revised his plans to head back to Ushuaia. He headed south across the Drake Lake twice, once ending up at Rothera and once at Marambio, but icing problems and weather made him give up.
Jon Johanson
landed his RV-4 on the McM ice runway on 8 December. Outa gas. Oops. Outa there a week later.
Malaysia's Antarctic Expedition
was a 3-man team planning to cross the continent from Blue One blue ice runway (5°E 70°S) to Scott Base with resupply at Pole. To be on schedule they should have started in mid-October...they've postponed until next year.
pole2pole
is Michael McGrath's quest to be the first disabled person to reach both Poles. He got to PH 9 January, was flown to within 3 miles of Pole on the 13th, and was pulled on a sledge in a wheelchair until he walked the last 1000' to the Pole on the 14th (he made it to the North Pole in similar fashion in 2002).
Doug Stoup
had scheduled a climbing/eclipse expedition to Queen Maud Land, but he is still planning a bike ride to Pole someday. He tested his equipment during 2002-03 near Patriot Hills. He missed the eclipse. They made it to Novolazarevskaya from South Africa, repaired a Stanford weather station, did some climbing, and headed back from the ice at the end of January.
Park Young-Seok
the Korean adventurer, led a 5-person expedition unsupported trip to Pole from Hercules Inlet...the other four members of the team were Lee Chi-SAng, Oh He-Joon, Kang Chel-Won, and Lee Hyun-Jo (in Korean the surnames precede the given names). They started their venture on 30 November and reached Pole on 14 January. At the time Park had only one more venture to complete before claiming the "Adventure Grand Slam"--a trip to the North Pole planned for the following season.
Polar First
British pilot Jennifer Murray and copilot Colin Bodill were underway south from New York flying a Bell 407 helicopter around the world via both poles to benefit the World Wildlife Federation. They made it to Pole on 17 December but crashed 3 days later north of Patriot Hills Both Jennifer and Colin were injured and were medevaced by AL&E to Punta Arenas, where they are recovering. Here's my page with more information and photos.
Matty McNair
that experienced female polar guide, is leading 4 male AL&E clients to Pole...this group picked up a resupply at the Thiel Mountains and arrived at Pole on 21 January.
Snickers South Pole Solo Challenge
is British woman Rosie Stancer who planned a solo 700-mile unsupported trip from Hercules Inlet with an Ipod full of music and (presumably) lots of candy bars for energy. She made it to the ice on 30 November to Pole on 14 January (SP time) in 44 days, the second fastest trip.
Fiona Thornewill
did the same trip unsupported, but not without controversy. She set a record of 42 days for the trek from Hercules Inlet, and was without satphone comms for most of the trip. She made it to the Hercules Inlet starting point on 11/30. Both Fiona and Rosie were involved in previous treks to both poles...her husband Mike, who accompanied her to Pole in 1299-2000, will led a group of novices on the uncompleted portion of Shackleton's 1907 route. They arrived at Pole on 27 January to meet Fiona, who'd been camped out since her arrival.
Pen Hadow
Arctic veteran and organizer of several female polar treks...he and Simon Murray did an unsupported trip from Hercules Inlet, arriving on 29 January Pole time. That makes Simon Murray the oldest person to make the trek. Their web site has updated details and a diary...
Polly Vacher
is on a round-the-world flight in a single-engined Piper Dakota aircraft, via (or at least flying over) Pole. This is a going event...after a month-long wait in Ushuaia, she flew to Rothera on 12/1. She started her 16-hour flight to McMurdo on 12/5 but had to turn back because of strong headwinds. Now because of the fuel shortage she's cancelled the rest of her Antarctic leg. Last summer the Russian tourist icebreaker Kapitan Khlebnikov depoted fuel for her at Rothera and Scott Base.
Rob Porcaro
an Australian, announced a solo trek along the traditional route from Berkner Island to Pole. The purpose of the trek is, among other things, to raise awareness of depression (!) He didn't go, now he proposes doing it in 2005-06.
Over Both Poles
was to be a planned commercial aircraft (747-451) flight by Concorde Spirit Tours, around the world over both poles. Hmmm, looks like they're still thinking about it. This would have been only the fourth commercial flight over Pole, the last went overhead while I was there in October 1977. Book now (!?)
South Pole Marathon
sponsored by ANI, is now scheduled to be repeated in December 2004 . The first one was in January 2002, with 5 full, half, and ultramarathon participants. Here's a diary and the 70South page on the first event, with some interesting links. ANI's web page has been updated to reflect their other 2004-05 travel options.
Ice maidens
is a group of 3 Australian women planning an unsupported trip from PH to Pole...here is their web site with recent info. Their trip has been postponed until 2004-05.
Scott's Challenge
is Pete Goss and Alan Chambers, two ex-Royal Marines who plan an unsupported round trip from the McMurdo side...this would be the first venture in a few years to follow the "footsteps"...they trained in Greenland but they didn't raise enough funds so their trip is off at least for this year.

The big iceberg B-15 north of Ross Island has broken in two...but as of midwinter the pieces just seem to be sitting there. Have a look for yourself from the best source--the Raytheon directory of iceberg satellite images which is updated at least once a week. Other news and details are available from the NOAA ice center press release and the AMRC site at U. Wisconsin.

The medevac was successful...after leaving Pole Sunday 9/21, 51-year-old Barry McCue, came forward to tell his story after successful gall bladder surgery 9/25. The full story is here, with pictures.

The first 2003 McMurdo winfly flight for 2003-04 was delayed for one day by bad weather at McMurdo but finally took place on Thursday 8/21 when the C17 Globemaster piloted by Lieutenant Paul Groven of the 62nd Airlift Wing transported 137 passengers and 33,000 lbs of cargo to McMurdo and safely returned. Two C-17's and four C-141's participated. Main body flights followed on 9/30.

The 2003 ozone hole was one of the biggest ever (9/12 ABC News article). Here are the 2003 and historical NOAA reports on ozone or lack of it, thanks to folks like Andy Clarke and Loreen Lock.

The winter was a quiet one--perhaps too quiet, as a series of hack attacks silenced internet communications for a bit. As a result the official Pole web site may remain unavailable. Meanwhile, the residents of the elevated station continued to deal with new-home quirks and glitches such as freezer problems (the wine in the freshie shack froze and the food in the new galley freezer won't).

Midwinters Day 2003 was a success as it must be. Fortunately this one fell over a weekend, allowing for the max in festivities. These included mini-soccer, a luau, radio darts with other stations, and a Hash House Harriers run in, around, and under the station. Of course there were midwinters greetings shared around the continent, here is the one from Pole, with thanks to Joy Culbertson and Karina Leppik!

Ulp...2002 was another year of significant medical news. At least this time it wasn't life threatening...but on 7/5/02 Dr. Tim Pollard performed surgery to repair meteorologist Dar Gibson's knee tendon. The event featured the latest version of "telemedicine" or assistance from up north via radio, phone and satellite. Here is NSF's press release with Jon Berry's photos, and here is the geek version from IT guy Henry Malmgren as seen on Slashdot!

The station closed on schedule on 15 February 2003...at 1427 local time the last flight left, leaving behind 58 folks to face the winter in an utterly new environment. There were 293 flights out of an originally scheduled 350 (later revised to a planned 323). The construction efforts focused on the punchlist for the first phase of the elevated station. The summer plan was to achieve conditional occupancy of A1 and A2, but fire system problems uncovered just before station closing caused a "slight" delay (including lots of hard work, plus the callback of the fire system reps who were awaiting a McM-ChC flight). Fortunately, the problem was resolved, and the next event occurred on 4 March as official occupancy was declared. The first night in the new station rooms, scheduled to be occupied by about 40 of the wo's, was 5 March. About the same time, the galley equipment and supplies were moved/unpacked/cleaned and readied for the first meal upstairs. where's the juice machine?? Cookie Jon presided over the "Last Supper" in the galley in the dome on 6 March... After breakfast and lunch the in the old galley the next day, the first meal (sandwiches) happened in the new galley (right). Work continued, the "official" first meal in the new galley, beef Wellington, was served up on 15 March. What of the old galley? For the short term, the dome bar is still open...and some of the gym equipment from summer camp has been moved into the old galley. Sooner or later the structure will be demo'd, that is part of the tight construction and shipping schedule. Meanwhile the structural for the first level of B3, last in linethe next pod, has been erected. The plans were to complete erection and enclosure, but some of the steel was damaged and has to be replaced. So it will be enclosed until next season, meanwhile foundation work on B1 was done instead (left, these 2 photos from Jerry Marty). The last issue of the Antarctic Sun for the season contained a major feature article on the new station.

From McMurdo...despite the presence of 2 icebreakers, the tanker MV Richard G Matthiesen wasn't able to reach the wharf; instead offloaded via hoses strung across the ice (NSF press release)...something that has been required more than once in the past. This evolution delayed the closing flights from McMurdo (originally scheduled for 2/22) until 10 March, when the last 50 folks left McMurdo via a RNZAF C-130 aircraft. Meanwhile, the American Tern cargo ship arrived with difficulty about midnight 2/9, and departed with much more difficulty with help from the crippled Polar Sea on 2/17. NSF called in a second icebreaker (the Healy, which arrived 2/7) (NSF press release) after the Polar Sea broke one of its three screws in late January. And near Lake Fryxell in the Dry Valleys, one of the PHI Bell 212 helos crashed (NSF press release) with the two occupants injured. They were medevaced to ChCh in stable condition.

The Russians are coming!! Somewhere, but not Pole. Despite this December 2002 Pravda article, the expeditioners from Russia (the International Mountaineering Club) planned multiple climbs in Dronning Maud Land. They brought two "snow bugs" (those 6-wheel vehicles that came to Pole a couple years ago) but apparently no balloons or parachutes. While the climbers did do their thing, both of the snow bugs broke down requiring an air evacuation by the Russians at Novolazarevskaya. Meanwhile, that Russian Antonov-3 aircraft that showed up last year will not be recovered for now....

The ITASE traverse arrived and completed all of their objectives, despite having to return to Byrd for wider tracks on one of their tractors and a better fuel sled borrowed from the Kiwis. They even did a mini-traverse towards the Pole of Inaccessability before parking their equipment on the berm for a future continuation in 2 years.

Earlier in the summer the jacking operations were completed. going upThe new station got a lift, as it were. Last year it became quite obvious that there was major and unplanned differential settlement between the elevated structure and the beer can (and other buried parts of the station). The station design includes provisions for jacking up the columns to level the structure as well as to raise it above drifts--it just hadn't been planned for this early in the life of the place. on the bottom. At left you see the columns exposed to facilitate the jacking operations (caption/credit). About half of the columns were jacked, and future plans and budgets have been adjusted to provide for some leveling every year. More details are in this 8 December 2002 Antarctic Sun article. Meanwhile, borings were taken and extensive measurements made...in the future additional spread footings will be installed under the columns starting with new pod B3. At right is a view of the A3 foundation installed last season (credit and larger view).


an ear to the skyScience construction included more work on the SPRESSO seismo vault which was started last season; this is 5 miles south of the dome near the old Pomerantz Land site. It is now taking data. And a new 5-mile antenna for the Stanford VLF project has been erected.

The MARISAT antenna platform got a major upgrade to support comms through the GOES satellite. It may get get a radome next season to reduce ice buildup (left) (January 2002 NSF photo by Nicolas Powell), seems that icing has degraded its performance. Other science projects included a new VLF antenna for Stanford to transmit towards Palmer, and the start of a new solar observatory.

Flying kites!!! Teacher Eric Muhs spent early December at Pole working with the AMANDA and SPASE projects. This is part of the Rice "Teachers Experiencing Antarctica" project. He updated a diary daily on their site, as well as posting lots of panoramas and multimedia stuff around the station. He flew kites with w/o's Robert Swartz and Steffen Richter around the station, and sent live presentations back to his classrooms. Check it all out starting with his TEA (Rice University/Armada) page.

1977 and frequent Polie Brad Halter spent the first part of the summer at Pole, and finished the season at Dome C (Concordia, the joint French and Italian station in Antarctica) making validation measurements for the NASA Atmospheric Infrared Sounder on the Aqua satellite. Dome C is a happening place, this past year major construction continued on the future year-round station, and the Australians got their AASTINO research module up and running.

Originally the first 3 flights of the 2002-03 season were scheduled for 10/23, but after several false starts due to weather, and an emergency landing, the first two flights didn't arrive until Saturday 10/26. There were three medevacs on the opening flights. One of them was RPSC science tech Deborah (DJ) Williams, who twisted her knee on some loose ice back in March. The injury has gotten worse, recently she's been having traction treatments as well as consultations (via all the state-of-the-art medical/teleconferencing equipment now on station) with doctors at Duke University.

What the NGA expeditions were for 2002-03:
The Ultimate Walk to Cure Diabetes
arrived at Pole on the morning of 18 January. The trip from Patriot Hills to Pole was led by Will Cross, a Type 1 diabetic from the Pittsburgh, PA area. Will's father Mike from England, also diabetic, joined the trek after a resupply point near 89°S. The two men were each accompanied by a doctor who studied the diabetic participants. Some of whom participated in a "last degree" expedition to the North Pole in 2001. The trip goal was to raise funds for juvenile diabetes research.
Brian Cunningham and Jamie Young
Called off! They brought kite-propelled "ski buggies" from the UK to travel downhill from Pole to PH. The lightweight vehicles were to make the trip in "less than two weeks." They flew to Pole from PH on 30 December (Pole time) and set out the same day. However, they got becalmed and camped 2 miles away from Pole...and on 3 January, based on extended weather forecasts for light winds, they gave up. Their web site has a good post-mortem.
and then there was to be the second ANI South Pole marathon
scheduled for 18 December 2002 but cancelled. Maybe next year. However, there was the second marathon at the NORTH Pole on 17 April 2003.
The 2002 South Pole Expedition
is one of the the ANI commercially guided trips from Hercules Inlet. This year there are two teams, "Ski South Pole 1" is 6 people: Spaniards Guillermo Banales and Angel Navas, and Britons Graham Stonehouse and Andrew Cooney, accompanied by Devon McDiamid, ANI assistant guide, and guide Matty McNair (Paul Landry's wife). Andrew is 23, he beame the youngest traverser to Pole when they arrived on 3 January, beating out the 27-year-olds who arrived the week before..
British Centernary Expedition
(or "White Desert" denoting the planned book about this trip) is "Ski South Pole 2" This 4-man group features South African Andrew Gerber; and 27-year-old Patrick Woodhead and Tom Avery, who were attempting to be the youngest Britons to reach Pole. This group is being guided by the Canadian guide Paul Landry. The group reached Pole on 28 December. Archived reports on their web site indicated they had been running low on whiskey and needed resupply...
Doug Stoup
spent some time in and around Patriot Hills in January 2003...among other things testing his Ice Bike, which he'd been planning to ride to Pole for awhile...
Finally, there were "last degree" (from 89°S) treks...and perhaps 40 tourists flying directly to Pole. The first did so in mid December.

Climate change on the Peninsula...the first week in April 2002 saw a major NSF-sponsored conference on this topic at Hamilton College in upstate New York. The meeting was planned many months before the recent iceberg incidents including the recent collapse of the Larsen B on the east side of the Peninsula. Here is the NSF press release. The workshop web site features abstracts from the presentations as well as streaming audio archives of the keynote speeches. And the expedition web site includes journal entries from their 2001-02 expedition as well as later trips.

The last flights of the 2001-02 season happened on 15 and 16 February...taking the remaining summer folks out and bringing in...steel beams for next summer (while leaving the mail and beer behind). The station summer season wound down after successful "topping out" and exterior closure of the next two sections of the new elevated station, A3 and B2, which will house science and medical facilities. Flight and cargo delays, as well as differential settlement problems, prevented the planned completion and winter occupancy of the new berthing and galley facilities which were first enclosed a year ago, so the winter population is 51, with some folks living in the suburbs of summer camp. What's happening right now?? The NOAA CMDL webcam gives excellent views of the new station, but you can't see much after dark. Here is the AASTO webcam. And for someplace a bit more brightly lit, try this interactive real-time webcam at McMurdo.

The South Pole Marathon, sponsored by ANI, finally happened on 21 January after weather and scheduling delays, with 5 runners completing half, full, or ultramarathon courses. It was won by Richard Donovan from Ireland, but second place finisher Dean Karnazes of San Francisco is complaining. He gave up his snowshoes and did the race in running shoes. Now the FBI and the State Department are involved. Richard hasn't gotten the promised prize money, and Dean is threatening a lawsuit. The details from Sports Illustrated. The 70South News has Richard's personal account of the race and the aftermath. This was only the beginning...on 5 April Richard ran a marathon at the North Pole...all alone, in two segments, in atrocious conditions...-76°F wind chill and 40 mph winds. A new one for the record books, 2 first Polar marathons in 3 months. More details on Richard's efforts to do ultramarathons on all continents this year are on his web site. But Richard was NOT the first person to finish a marathon at Pole. Station doctor Chuck Huss did the 26.2 miles on Boston Marathon day, 20 April 1981...more info and training photo here.

On 8 January a small Russian AN-3 single-engined biplane arrived crammed with 14 folks including the vice-president of the Russian Duma (state parliament). Because he and other DV's were aboard, NSF granted them official status...and fuel...and later, bed space in the library and gym after their aircraft refused to start. Eventually after 2 days the DVs were flown out to McM/NZ on an LC-130, while the tourists with lesser status were picked up and taken to Patriot Hills by ANI. The aircraft was towed away to be parked for the winter, perhaps to be repaired next season. Scott Smith has photos and the story on Steven McLachlan's site.

Meanwhile the construction work paused briefly during the week of 6 January to allow the installation of the official Time Capsule in one of the foundation beams. I have the exclusive story and photos from Katy Jensen. The event was witnessed by a DV group of congressional staffers, who also got to stay overnight because of bad weather (fortunately some new and comfy library couches had just been received). However, it seems that some of the time capsule contents were delayed in the mail...the capsule was quietly opened a week later to add some stuff sent from Washington, then the grade beam was welded up on 11 January. Meanwhile there was a fire, hoped by all to be the only "real" one of the season. A welder's sparks ignited some wood in the carpenter shop, resulting in 8' flames, fortunately put out with a dry chemical extinguisher. A good test of the fire teams. Oh yes, the temperature actually got up to +5°F, only 1 degree short of the 1978 record.

Antarctic guide Doug Stoup returned to Pole in December, where he discussed last season's discovery of a 1937 Hershey "Ration Bar" with Katy Jensen. Did he really find it at Pole as was so widely reported by the media? Exclusive story here!

I was interviewed by Kristan Hutchison of the Antarctic Sun for a special feature which appeared in the 25 November 2001 issue, on the past and future of the Dome. Therefore I've further updated the pages on building the dome. It's been known for awhile that the Dome will not be part of the new station. It must be removed from the continent in accordance with the Madrid Protocol. The exact method of removal was announced in December 2000--Chain Saws! Past efforts to save it and rebuild it in the US did not elicit the funding required for a more delicate demolition. Anyway, here is that excellent savethedome.com web site by 2001 w/o Jeff Kietzmann...a whimsical look at the past and future of this landmark structure. More recently, here is a commentary from the Antarctican news site.

The station opened on 24 October 2001 with 348 scheduled flights, but the schedule slipped as it does every year. Lots of flights need to be used to bring in fuel, as the place can go through 6000 gallons per week nowadays. Movement of cargo to Pole improved because the Pegasus runway was readied for all-season use by wheeled C-130's, and an additional Air Force squadron from Little Rock, Arkansas was brought in to move cargo from ChCh to McM. During the early summer the new and old power plants were the subject of a massive gremlin hunt after a number of outages. The new plant was down for a fair percentage of the time early in the summer before a successful repair/redesign effort.

"Frozen Under:" National Geographic has major coverage on the Antarctic in the December 2001 issue. In addition to this feature on life in Antarctica (this site includes a few more of those 360° panoramas from Pole and elswhere) there is a second article covering the visit to the Ross Sea icebergs in 2000-01. For the full story and pictures you'll need to consult the hard copy, if it never made it to your mailbox, check it out in at the library, well worth it!

NSF's construction plans for the 2001-02 season included construction of the new seismic facility (SPRESSO) 5 miles from the dome...the next stage in quiet seismo vaults....close to the old Pomerantz Land site. Here's the NSF press release on the 2001-02 science, and the USA Today version.

All of the groups who did private expeditions to Pole in 2001-02:
Wearables Expedition
Thomas and Tina Sjorgen, who aborted last year's trip 160 miles short of Pole, tried again with another generation of "wearable" electronic devices. This is their updated web site with video from 2000-01 as well. On 29 November 2001 they flew to PH and the coast, 4 weeks behind schedule. After slow travel most of their electronics froze up, and they suffered from the cold temps of late summer before arriving at Pole on 1 February 2002.
Doug Stoup
who made a successful ski trip last year as part of blind Miles Barber's trek, planned a 2001-02 solo bike ride on a specially made fat-tire titanium bicycle. This may happen some day, but in 2001-02 Doug led the ANI "last degree" trek to Pole, which arrived on Christmas, and more recently managed the ANI South Pole marathon. He's done a bunch of other extreme stuff in Antarctica recently including a climbing expedition on the Peninsula last summer, and an October/November 2001 climbing/boarding trip to South Georgia.
"Ski to the South Pole"
is Adventure Network International (ANI)'s commercial operation of supported ski trips from Patriot Hills. In 2001-02 there was one group of three--Canadian guide Paul Landry along with Chris Weyers, a Briton from Australia, and Timo Polari of Finland. They arrived at Pole on 27 January and were flown back to PH the next day.
South Pole Marathon
sponsored by ANI, flew folks to the starting line 26.2 miles from the dome. Three people finished the marathon run, while two others did a half, and one dropped out. This was originally scheduled for 4 January. Here's a diary, and the 70South page on the event. The rest of the story is elsewhere on the 70South site (search for "marathon"). The winner, Richard Donovan, had to sue for his winnings after the race organizers attempted to change the rules after it was run. Good luck. I've done hundreds of miles at Pole including some half-marathon+distances, but I prefer groomed surfaces, the sastrugi are murder! In addition, ANI also offers the "last degree" ski trip from 89°S to the Pole.

From Washington...a Congressional conference report suggests that $15 million will be appropriated for preliminary costs of the Ice Cube project, the 1 cubic km next version of the AMANDA neutron detector. This is a $250 million, 8-year project. And NSF's overall budget for 202 was increased by Congress by 8.4% to $4,789 million. This includes $300 million for "polar research and operations support," of which the "U.S. Antarctic Logistical Support" budget was increased 9.3% to $68.1 million.

Science special...the 2001 w/o's completed a research project to reconfirm that the Earth does indeed rotate on its axis. A Foucault pendulum was installed in the future elevator shaft of the beer can. Yes, it did indeed change its plane of swing as the Earth rotated. The 33m stair tower offered a much better place to do this than the 16m dome where we tried the same thing in 1977. Here are details from physicist R. Allan Baker...

On 28 September 2001 a major fire destroyed the biolab at Rothera, the large British Antarctic station at the southern end of Adelaide Island off the Antarctic Peninsula. The Bonner Laboratory was a new building completed in 1996-97...fortunately the alarms sounded early and there were no injuries to the 21 w/o's. However, weather conditions prevented fighting the fire. Details and photos from the British Antarctic Survey. The lab has since been rebuilt.

On 12 September 2001 the w/o's learned of the tragedy unfolding in New York and Washington...and Jeff Kietzmann and Dave McDonald went up on the dome to put the flag at half staff. Here is the picture and story from manager Jerry Macala, and here is how USA Today covered it. (The flag was returned to full staff on Sunday, 26 September.)

Palmer w/o painter Thomas Leipart died on 5 September from head injuries after a 1 September fall down the stairs aboard the R/V Lawrence Gould. He hod just arrived in PA after a crossing from Palmer. Thomas' wife Cindy from Arizona flew down to be with him before his death. He had planned to w/o next year at McMurdo.

The NOAA folks at Pole have updated their CMDL home page with live links to ozone data, as well as tours of ARO and the station, historical information, and photos. Well worth a look.

Pole MEDEVAC...Dr. Ron Shemenski, after suffering from a bout of pancreatitis, was successfully medevaced in a twin otter aircraft which arrived from Rothera at noon 25 April 2001 (Pole time) with OAE replacement doctor Betty Carlisle on board. Ron headed north the next day. The full story with photos and links is featured HERE. Oh yes, the aircraft was also carrying about 100 lbs of table salt...it seems that this vital commodity had already run short.

The McMurdo medevac (NSF press release) also happened successfully in April 2001, carrying out a total of 11 Raytheon employees. Two folks had serious medical problems which prompted the medevac--a heart condition and a possible concussion; two other less-serious medical cases also were given the advantage of the flight; seven other folks also left McM for other reasons, perhaps relating to family problems at home. Or perhaps, er, other reasons, as discussed in this 28 April NZ Herald news story. The C-130 from the RNZAF headed south Tuesday at 0525 Tuesday 24 April +12/NZ and McM time (1325 Monday EDT) after a 24-hour weather delay. It landed at Pegasus, spent about an hour on deck, and returned to ChCh at 2030. Here is a press statement from Karl Erb, NSF Polar Programs director.

Enough cargo made it to Pole during the 2000-01 summer season to support the interior buildout of the first phase of the new elevated station, which was successfully enclosed and heated. And the lights stayed on all winter. Read about the other milestones--the startup of the new power plant and the successful testing of the new earth station...(plus links to more background stuff) in the 24 January NSF press release. 2000-01 summer construction pictures of the elevated station are here thanks to Steven McLachlan and the folks at Pole.

The new MARISAT/GOES 9-meter antenna, which promised to double the broadband access time, was successfully tested on 18 January 2001, but there were major "feed" and cold weather problems which required troubleshooting through much of the 2001 winter.

Antarctica continues to break up! The iceberg C-19 is splitting up, per this May 2003 NATICE press release and photo. The icebergs continued to cause shipping problems into McMurdo Sound in January 2003, although a sudden shift (along with the presence of 2 Coast Guard icebreakers) allowed some of the late summer cruise ships to approach Ross Island. The best continually updated file of Ross Ice Shelf photos, well annotated, is in this directory on the Raytheon server in Denver, where you can see the bergs nuzzling against the east side of Ross Island. They ultimately required a second icebreaker to help with the 2002-03 shipping season (Antarctican news article). In 2002 a hunk of the Lazarev Ice Shelf (69.4°S 15.9°E) broke off into the southeastern Weddell Sea and became D-17 (6 x 20 miles). Also in May 2002, 2 more chunks of the Ross Ice Shelf broke off...as noted in these NATICE press releases on C-18 (124 x 20 miles) photographed on 6 May, and C-19 (124 x 20 miles, a bit bigger than Delaware) photographed on 11 May. In the C-18 photo you can see the beginning of the C-19 crack. Here is an NSF press release on the Ross Sea icebergs...Charles Stearns, the AWS guy from the University of Wisconsin (UWis), notes that the recent bergs take the Ross Ice Shelf back to the approximate size it was in 1911. Other photos and animations are found at the AMRC site from UWis, the automated weather station folks...YES, there are AWS's on the icebergs! During late 2001 at McMurdo, NSF thought that the two large Ross Sea icebergs may soon break each other up due to repeated collisions. Here's the press release. NSF used a second icebreaker to get the channel to McMurdo clear for the cargo and fuel shipments, but the clearing operation was successful. The icebergs B15A and C16 are north of Ross Island; this plus the weather conditions have produced much heavier sea ice than usual and they are blocking the flow of winds and currents that would normally help the ice go away. Here is additional late November 2001 news coverage from USA Today and the Antarctic Sun

Ventures to the new icebergs...In late January 2001, scientists from the U. of Chicago and U. of Wisconsin traveled via the US Coast Guard icebreaker Polar Sea to visit iceberg B-15A, a 90 x 20 mile piece of the icebergs. Here is a slide show by Antarctic Sun senior editor Josh Landis, who got to go, here is a link to NSF video, and this is a Milwaukee Journal/Sentinel article about this program. The Ice Island expedition went to study B-15 and its neighbors "above, below, and within." The venture was partially sponsored by National Geographic; it had two missions--research and filmmaking. Steven Mclachlan has a page of photos of the expedition vessel "Braveheart" before they left Lyttleton on 17 January. Unfortunately heavy pack ice kept them from getting close to any of the large bergs. Here are some early November 2000 NSF photos by Josh Landis, who got to fly over them on one of the LC-130 exploratory missions. The icebergs might actually endanger the shipping lanes to McMurdo, Charles Stearns advised at the American Polar Society meeting in Boulder. The natural movement for the Ross Sea icebergs is towards the west; if present trends continue they could block the shipping channel along the west side of Ross Island.

Stearns' Antarctic met data center (AMRC) at the University of Wisconsin continues to track and monitor the various bergs in the Ross Sea and elswhere. The newest, B-20 (renamed C-16), 30 x 11 miles, broke loose from the Ross Ice Shelf in late September 2000 and is north of Ross Island. The largest in the Ross Sea, named B-15 (170 x 25 miles) broke in half, 200 miles east of McMurdo in mid-March 2000. There are others, including one 80 x 12 miles just east of B-15, which has broken into several pieces, one of which has already made it to Cape Adare. Meanwhile there are icebergs which calved off the Ronne Ice Shelf (east of the Antarctic Peninsula) in early May 2000. The AMRC iceberg page is frequently updated with new pictures, video and information. The NOAA National Ice Center also covers these bergs. Events such as these have been the plot basis for more than one fiction thriller over the years. These were first noticed on 17 March 2000 in McM where Andy Archer, Matt Thompson and the other met folks studied these photos as well as the Terascan images, many of which appeared on the AMRC web site.

00-01 station construction pictures are here thanks to Steven McLachlan and the folks at Pole. The weather was rough on the flight schedule to deliver construction materials, but the full complement of winter construction folks were on hand to work on the interior of the first phase of the elevated structure.

More stories about 2000-01 construction plans...a Christian Science Monitor article, and several NSF press releases...the summer construction (with photos), as well as the overall plans for the 2000-01 season and the science around the rest of the continent. And here are my details about the construction project.

Radio days...National Public Radio reporter Richard Harris spent a day at Pole in 2000-01, and his report on T-shirt weather there aired on 11 December 2000. Check out the audio archive and listen along here, new stories continued to air through April.

NGA (non-governmental activity) visits to the crowded dome in the 2000-01 summer season...

Pole to Pole 2000
came from the North Pole (well, they changed their route and started at the Magnetic Pole in Canada). They arrived at PA on 26 November; from there they flew to Patriot Hills (PH). Their late arrival on the ice caused them to start in the Theil Mountains 250 miles south of PH rather than on the coast as originally planned. Nine team members made it to the dome the day before the millennium started (1/1/1). Original plans called for 4 people to make the return trip overland, but after leaving a time capsule (!) behind, everyone left by air for PH on 1 January. The web site has recent journals and maps...and Steven McLachlan has the arrival pictures from Scott Smith. Martyn Williams, co-founder of ANI, is one of the expedition organizers.
The Origin Expedition to the Source...
had 4 expeditions covering the 4 primeval elements: earth, air, fire, and water. The 3-man Dutch "water" expedition, also known as the Sasquatch Expeditions traverse, originally planned an unsupported ski trek from Blue One to PH via Pole. That was off, but they arrived at Patriot Hills on 9 November on their way to do an unsupported round trip. During their first two weeks of travel they redesigned their sledges, depoted some supplies, and covered about 120 miles. They arrived at Pole on 27 December and departed before New Years on their return trip. Scott Smith's pictures of their arrival are here on Steven McLachlan's site. They completed their trip back to PH on 16 January.
Bancroft Arnesen Expedition
crossed the continent from the ANI runway "Blue One" (71°31'S-8°48'E near SANAE) to McM. Both Ann and Liv have been to Pole before, this was another "first Transantarctic" attempt with a resupply at Pole using skis and sails. They arrived at Blue One on an ANI Ilyushian 76 aircraft on 13 November, 10 days behind their plan. They had hoped to reach Pole by New Years and McM by mid-February. They reached Pole early on 17 January and left the next day. They successfully completed the crossing of the continent on 11 February, but unfavorable winds made it impossible to finish the journey across the Ross Ice Shelf to reach their pickup vessel before it is forced to leave. So they called for ANI to shuttle them to Williams Field....which they reached on 17 February. The next day they were flown by helo to the Australian vessel "Sir Hubert Wilkins." Here's another page about Liv, who wrote "Good Girls do not Ski to the South Pole" after her solo trip during the 1994-95 summer.
The Canadian Antarctic Millennial Expedition
...Laurie Dexter and Scott Smith, was planning a transcontinental trek from Berkner Island to McM but that is now off perhaps until 2001-02. Laurie did venture to Pole as the leader of ANI's "Last Degree" one-week ski trip from 89° S.
Norwegian Antarctic Expedition 
(Norwegian language site) (trip partially sponsored by the Norwegian Polar Institute)...Rolf Bae and Eirik Sønneland set off on 20 October to ski/parasail, unsupported, the 1250 miles from Troll Station, 72°S-2°E, to Pole along the 0° meridian. Oh yes, before they did that they wintered at Troll. The 4-man winter crew was Norway's first w/o party since the IGY era; the doctor is 65 years old! Because they wintered on the ice, they got an earlier start than the other adventurers. They reached Pole on 21 December--there was no news on their web site but Steven McLachlan has pictures of their arrival from Scott Smith. Then they surprisingly headed for McM...where after problems with lack of wind they showed up at Willy Field on 5 February. Here's an exclusive photo of Eirik (left) and Rolf upon their arrival (photo by David Berry). They spent time at Scott Base while transportation arrangements were made for them to be picked up on the 13th by the cruise ship Akademic Shokalskiy. Bigdeadplace has an excellent interview with Eirik Sønneland. Their planning and communications foibles have been the subject of Antarctic Treaty meeting discussions...
Abandoned! Miles Hilton-Barber
...a 52-year-old British adventurer, attempted to become the first blind person to trek from Patriot Hills. Miles has previously completed the Marathon des Sables and climbs of Mt. Kilimanjaro and Mt. Blanc. The four-man party (also known as the Challenging Horizons group) included one sighted companion and two guides; they hoped to raise £2.5m for the Royal National Institute for the Blind (RNIB). They left PH on 20 November, 10 days late, and after 260 miles Miles was forced to abandon the trip on 22 December due to frostbite on his left hand...he was flown back to PH and hoped to back in the UK by Christmas. The rest of the team continued, they reached Pole on 21 January. Hmm...one of his guides, Californian Doug Stoup, was planning to do a solo second trip to Pole on a bicycle (!) after the trip with Miles is completed. That is off for this season, but he may try something next year.
Abandoned! Antarctica 2000 (mostly Slovenian language site)
was a solo unsupported ski/parasail trip from Blue One to Ross Island via Pole. Stane Klemenc of Slovakia left Blue One at about the same time as Liv and Ann he had serious comms difficulty, and was held back by his incredibly heavy 440 lb sledge/parasail chair. After stopping for several days due to probable injury, ANI went to look for him and flew him back to Blue One on 3 December. This site includes a detailed diary. Earlier it also included some English language commentary by Geoff Somers.
Abandoned! The Poles Wearables Expedition
consists of the U.K./U.S. couple Thomas and Tina Sjorgen, who left Hercules Inlet for Pole on 20 November. Their expedition name comes from the use of "wearable" comms and computing devices, which they have already used to send pictures back. As of 19 January they were still about 180 miles from Pole, they geve up the next day and were flown back to PH. They intended to try again the next year...and were successful.
Danish South Pole Expedition 2000
Kristian Joos and Gregers Gjersøe attempted to be the first Danish expedition to reach Pole unsupported from Hercules Inlet. They started from there on 19 November. As of New Years they had about 165 miles to go, and they arrived on 13 January. Steven McLachlan has some photos by Scott Smith.
Perhaps you too...
This is the Adventure Network (ANI) home page...you can book a trip to Pole by air, no sledging required, for only about $25,000...this year will see the 200th fare-paying passenger since I met the first ones in January 1988.
Trinity Expedition POSTPONED until 2001-02 (which was planned but didn't happen either)
This ws a 3-man team from Chile, Argentina, and Britain, planning a trip to Pole from the ice edge west of Berkner Island. Their web site included a detailed chronology of their efforts to obtain funding, supplies, and information. As of late August it seemed unlikely that their effort would proceed.
TAE 2000 CANCELLED as of 18 October 2000
Two women, Sunniva Sorby of Canada and Uiloq Slettemark from Greenland, were planning an all-female crossing from Berkner Island to McM via Pole.... Sunniva accompanied Ann Bancroft on the first women's trek to Pole in 1992-93.

Rodney Marks left Pole on one of the first flights, his body was returned to Australia for autopsy and burial. Here is a page of information, memorial links and tributes...

Rodney was the astronomer operating the AST/RO telescope, and he died from unknown natural causes on 12 May, after experiencing breathing difficulties while walking back to the dome from the dark sector. This was the third USAP death at South Pole Station, and the first during the winter. During the winter the w/o's decided to have their own funeral ceremony for him. They constructed an elaborate oak casket, and on 3 July the group gathered to load it onto a Nansen sled and transport it to a grave site. Rodney was laid to rest for the remainder of the winter, under the stars in the Australian sector about 15 feet from the Pole.

The first main body flight arrived at McMurdo on 3 October 2000. This picture from Chuck Kimball documents what it looked like from a window in Building 159.

Ozone...Pole NOAA data is online here. The surface Dobson ozone measurements have been collected since 1961; since these observations can't be taken in darkness, ozonesonde balloons have been launched weekly since 1986. Here is another "view" of the ozone hole from NASA with links to satellite data. The ozone hole was originally discovered in 1985 by Joe Farman of BAS; here is the BAS ozone page with links to additional data.

Polar Symposium in Boulder: The American Polar Society held this biennial event on 4-6 October 2000...themes included data collection, communications, and the environment. Speakers included the weather guru Charles Stearns, senior NOAA scientist Susan Solomon, IGY veteran John Behrendt, and former East Base resident Jackie Ronne. Of course, the meeting was also a BIG Antarctican reunion party. Here is the web site for the society. This organization was founded during the time of Byrd's second expedition, and has been disseminating news and information about the Antarctic and Arctic ever since.

Pole Souls Boulder 2000 reunion... Yes, we're proud to say that ALL of our 1977 winterover team gathered in Boulder, CO, the weekend before Midwinters Day. We shared stories, jokes, music, photos, videos, beer, good food, fun, and...some quiet time together. Yes, here is the photo documentation!

Raytheon Polar Services Company... (RPSC) assumed the US Antarctic Program support contract as of 1 April. Here is the new RPSC web site, (the other site is here). Here is my archive list of news about the contract award and the ongoing legal challenge to the Raytheon award. On 29 February ASA filed an appeal...

After a highly successful science and construction season, Pole "closed" on 14 February 2000 with an all-time high winter population of 50 (about the average summer population back in 76-77). Cargo flights continued until the last flight at about 2300 on the 16th.

Bicycling at Pole... this CARA-sponsored project spent the last week in January 2000 testing out fat-tire bicycles...

McMurdo fatality...John Biesiada, a Canadian contractor employee for SPAWAR (the Navy satcom/air traffic control folks) died early Saturday 8 January. Cause unknown pending an autopsy. After a Sunday memorial service in the chapel, the body was flown to ChCh the next day,and the autopsy results are here.

Fox News covered a private geology expedition "Antarctica 2000" which included former astronauts Jim Lovell and Owen Garriott. During January they traveled via Patriot Hills to the Thiel Mountains, Pole and back. They found meteorites, and they got to sleep...on the floor of the gym. Their archive stuff and photos are gone, but Steven McLachlan has a page with lots of photos of the team, their aircraft, and the station.

Sir Vivian Fuchs, leader of the 1956-58 Commonwealth Transantarctic Expedition (yes, he showed up at Pole to meet Sir Edmund Hillary in January 1958) died in Cambridge, UK on 11 November 1999 at the age of 91. Here's an obituary from SPRI.

Coverage of the various 99-00 NGA visits to Pole...
The skydivers/Russian "MIL" expedition
are covered on this separate page...
M&G ISA Challenge (Women's South Pole 2000)
5 British women led by Caroline Hamilton, some of whom went to the North Pole in 1997 They left Hercules Inlet on 23 November and arrived at Pole at 1900 24 January.
Mike and Fiona Thornwill
along with Katharine Hartley from the UK, arrived from Hercules Inlet on 5 January. (Here's Fiona's newer site.)
Jasmine Lee and three others from Singapore
arrived on New Years Eve (December 1999 ANAN article about their progress).
Peter Treseder and Tim Jarvis
"Operation Chillout," two Australians tried to cross from Berkner Island (78°S 45°W) to McM. They started on 31 October and reached Pole on 16 December, and cancelled the second half of the trip due to leaky fuel containers (their web site is gone; this link is from AAD).
Laurence de la Ferriere (8 December story from the AAD)
left Pole on 23 November heading southwest to Dumont d'Urville via Dome Charlie, er, Concordia alone on skis. She arrived at that French station on 30 December and continued north with help from the French, arriving at Dumont d'Urville on 6 February. The full story is on the AAD site. She finally arrived at Dumont d'Urville on 6 February. Before she left Pole she was interviewed by Dr. Robert Thompson (letter #3). Earlier, she was the first French woman to ski to Pole alone, arriving in January 1997.

PBS Millennium coverage...the New Year's feature listing and a picture of Brad Halter with the Pole survey marker...both were featured in the live coverage.

Raytheon support contract award information
  • On 2/29 ASA "docketed" (filed) an appeal to the Claims court decision in the with the US Court of Appeals for the Federal Circuit. Not much was made public, and this dragged on for awhile...but with little or no significant impact on the US Antarctic Program.
  • The contract award was upheld on 1/28 in a sealed ruling by the Federal Claims court, and the phase-in proceeded. The ruling might have eventually been released if all of the parties involved agreed how to redact (censor) it, but I never found it.
  • 30 January Sun article announcing the resolution of the court case
  • 21 November brief Antarctic Sun article by ASA discussing the restraining order
  • 29 October Raytheon contract award press release
  • 30 October Denver Post article
  • 31 October Antarctic Sun article
  • 28 October summary of NSF contract award announcement heard in Denver
  • 1 November CBD announcement, the official way the Government did it

The first of the three "real" opening flights arrived at Pole at about 1215 South Pole time (+13) Monday 25 October 1999 (1815 CDT Sunday). The weather was -48°C/-55°F, winds about 10 knots.

Dr. Jerri Nielsen

For better or worse, the October 1999 events focused more media attention on Pole than the place has seen for many years--perhaps since 1929 when Admiral Byrd was wearing his sweater 1500' above where it is today.

Later updates...in July 2001 ABC News reported that Jerri Nielsen would return to Antarctica with her family during the 01-02 summer as a physician on a cruise ship. Here's the story, with more details of her experience as a Polie. More recently there was news of a lawsuit by her former husband. Her book "Ice Bound: A Doctor's Incredible Battle for Survival at the South Pole" came out in hardcover, CD and tape versions on 18 January 2001 and hit the best-seller list. She was featured with fellow w/o's on an ABC Primetime, which first aired on 25 January 2001.

Now that Dan Rather and Jerry Bowen have turned the CBS eye away from the dome, I've moved the stuff here. I'm not sure how long the current stories and videos will still be available.

For some reason CBS considered this story "National News," ABC considered it "World News," CNN called it "Asia/Pacific," and the USA Today stuff is "Weather." Go figure.

In February 2000 came the annnouncement about her book deal

Selected NSF individual official press releases and statements

[sorry, as of September 2005 NSF started rearranging them, as of June 2009 many still are unavailable]

15 October Mission successful, Jerri's in McMurdo (Rita Colwell)

13 October Planes arrive in McMurdo

9 October Planes in ChCh

7 October official photo of Dr. Jerri at the ceremonial pole earlier in the winter

5 October Time to send in the Hercs (Karl Erb)

13 July Statement on Behalf of Patient

13 July Update on South Pole Medical Air Drop

13 July Briefing on South Pole Emergency by NSF director Rita Colwell

11 July airdrop is successful.

17 June Press Statement by Dr. Karl Erb on the medical status of South Pole personnel

Background news with photos, links to other news releases and and information on the 11 July airdrop

CBS News...
10 October
Aircraft in ChCh, waiting to head to McMurdo
6 October
LC-130s leave New York State for the ice
11 July
Airdrop is successful
The main CBS national news site
...unfortunately most of the Jerry Bowen stories are gone...

USA Today
Antarctic index with good links to more current news
Summary coverage from Jack Williams...although most of the old news links are broken

CNN
11 October with links to earlier coverage

Other Pole media coverage from previous seasons...

USA Today
Jack Williams spent 3 days at Pole in January 1999, here's the index to his diary, some of the links still work . Here is their main South Pole page and a good photo tour of the station, including ARO (CAF) and how balloons are launched these days. Here's Joel M filling a balloon. What comes next is "It's away" followed by "Got it!" as done nowadays.
Outside Magazine
spent time in September 1997 at a Colorado retreat with the '98 w/o crew. Okay, where is that bloody axe when we need it!

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