Station and Ceremonial Pole, December 2008
[photo by Nick Powell, Antarctic Photo Library]


2018 Pole sunset dinnerPalmer Station 50th anniversaryThere were not one, but TWO significant Antarctic celebrations at USAP small stations in late March...of course, the expected one was the sunset dinner at South Pole on 24 March (left above, photo by Raffaella Busse). But there was more...on 20 March a major celebration was held at Palmer Station commemorating the 50th anniversary of the dedication of the permanent station! More details of that, as well as links to documentation of the 1968 dedication event...are here.

Other important stuff...the Pole winterover statistics page has been updated for 2018 Check it out!

As I also keep track of NSF's Arctic program, I'll mention that the Arctic support contract is being rebid. It was previously awarded to CH2M Hill for a 4-year base period beginning on 1 February 2012, with options for two 2-year extensions. More recently, CH2M has been acquired by Jacobs in 2017, but the Arctic support contract organization site Polar Field Services has not been updated to mention Jacobs (perhaps this is because the person in the Littleton office who used to update these things, Kip Rithner, is no longer with us. Anyway, the draft RFP is to be issued in April, with proposals due in September and award due in August 2019, presumably to begin on 1 February 2020. Already at least one company (Parsons) is seeking to hire people to work on the proposal. The presolicitation info is here.

Argentine Navy helicopterA bit of news from the Antarctic Peninsula area...a research team from UCSB was studying raised beaches (a sign of historic sea level changes) on Joinville Island just north of the Peninsula. But when it came time for the Laurence M. Gould to pick them up, the sea ice conditions were too think. So instead they were picked up by an Argentine Navy helicopter (right) on 11 March for eventual transfer to the Gould. Info/photos/video....

"Breaking" news from...the Washington DC Navy Yard (my first duty station in my early 1970's Navy days). On 2 March, the official request for procurement (RFP) was issued for from one to three new heavy what is called the Heavy Polar Icebreaker (HPIB) program. The RFP release was announced in Coast Guard commandant ADM Paul Zunkunft's 1 March State of the Coast Guard address, and described in these Navy Times and US Naval Institute news articles. The official RFP posting is here, although most of the the technical specs aren't/won't be available to the general public. The first vessel is supposed to be available in 2023, and there are provisions for possible armament. While the icebreakers are destined for the Coast Guard, the procurement is being handled by the Naval Sea Systems Command, which has much more experience with the procurement of large military vessels. Five bidders are expected to submit proposals.

partial solar eclipse at Pole18 February...last week of the summer season. As with the first weeks of the season, several flights were cancelled. But there WAS a final flight on Friday the 16th. But first...earlier that day there was a partial solar eclipse (right, photo by Robert Schwarz). More than 40 percent of the Sun was covered! It was a bit hazy as you can see, and the weather continued to deteriorate, so the last flight opted not to do a fly-by. After it disappeared, there were 40 winterovers left behind--this is the smallest winterover crew since 1998--before the elevated station construction got underway.

10 February...the summer season is winding down...people are leaving, winterovers are arriving, and it is cool (-35ºF/-31ºC). The summer construction and science season is over...more details are here.

the Polar Star in McMurdo SoundYes, there was yet another government shutdown, although it didn't last long enough to have any effect on USAP (although I didn't get up in the middle of the night to see if the NSF and Coast Guard websites had been shut down).

Speaking of the Coast Guard, on 6 February they put out this news article about the Polar Star's adventures and misadventures on their 2017-18 trip to McMurdo. The ice conditions were not as bad as last season, but there was that "flooding" and "engine failure." At left, one of many Coast Guard photos (by CPO Nick Ameen) from the Flickr album accompanying the article--this shows it breaking ice in McMurdo Sound on 13 January. Other photos depict some of the repair efforts. Meanwhile back in the USA, the U.S. Naval Institute has announced that the RFP for a new Coast Guard heavy icebreaker is expected this month. I will be watching for that. Hmmm...FIVE prospective bidders?

peak of the McMurdo shipping seasonA wrapup on the McMurdo shipping season...after the Ocean Giant arrived on 19 January (photo below left) and was securely tied up, the "offload" portion of the evolution took only 2-1/2 days. The backload would take a bit longer, but it departed on the morning of 2 be replaced at the pier by the tanker Maersk Peary. At right is a rather unique photo (from Michael Christensen) of the Ocean Giant departing, the Polar Star standing by, and the Maersk Peary lurking until the coast is clear. The tanker would tie up later that day...and stay until 6 February. Here's a webcam view of it heading off in the distance.

22 January...yes, there was a government shutdown. But this time, since the one in 2013, USAP has changed its funding structure so that there is no immediate impact. For a time the Armed Forces Network was shut down, cancelling TV broadcasts to McMurdo, but later it was declared "essential" meaning that folks could watch the NFL playoffs on Monday instead of, say, flying LC-130's to Pole. But it is early yet. In 2013, things went along normally for about a week before things started getting shut down and people started to lose their jobs.

the Polar Star at the pierAnd it IS the shipping season! The Polar Star first appeared off McMurdo around 14 January. By the 19th it was at the pier, checking in before heading back out to continue breaking out the channel. In the photo at left, the Nathaniel B. Palmer is waiting for the Coast Guard to go away so it can dock. The cargo vessel Ocean Giant left Lyttelton on the 18th and is supposed to reach McMurdo around the 25th. And the tanker Maersk Peary is now south of Australia after a stop in Fremantle.

17 January: after the successful lowering of the beer can stairs and adjusting all of the attached piping, some of the attention has turned to doing a bit of jacking and leveling of the elevated station itself. It's early so no photos yet.

But...the calendar and the news bring to mind the discussion of another US government shutdown this week. What might this mean for the US Antarctic program? Too early to tell, of course. And hopefully we won't have to find out. The last time a shutdown actually happened was in October 2013...resulting in major program disruptions and lost jobs--many people already deployed to McM or en route were sent home. Some never were rehired. And the end of the shutdown happened less than 24 hours before the Palmer Station summer science season would have been cancelled. Details!

DSCS module foundation13 January: here is a glimpse of one of the more visible summer construction projects--a new equipment module to better manage reception of the DSCS satellite. Here's the foundation support structure (from Sayer Houseal)...yes, more photos coming soon. Otherwise at Pole...the berms continue to be attacked...including the third annual Berming Man (no bonfires were created for this event)...and Kelly Brunt's NASA ICESat-2 traverse has completed and the team is back at Pole (latest blog post).

The NGO trekkers continue to arrive and approach as their season starts to wind down. Veteran Ben Saunders reached Pole on 29 December but opted not to continue his planned unsupported trip to the Ross Ice Shelf due to a shortage of food (Telegraph article). And Robert Swan opted to leave his South Pole Energy Challenge trek temporarily as he felt he was slowing the progress. He rejoined his group, along with some "last degree" folks, at 89ºS. They are one of the last 2 NGO teams/individuals still trying to reach Pole. Looks like the deadline for them to reach Pole before ALE pulls out is 17 January. My full coverage of all NGO ventures is here.

the 2018 South Pole Marker2 January...Happy New Year! Of course New Years Day brings with it the unveiling of the brand new South Pole by BICEP3 winterover Grant Hall and IceCuber Martin Wolf. Here are the details. The quote "By endurance we conquer" is a translation from the Latin of "Fortitudine vincimus" which was the Shackleton family motto. More info with photos...this 6 January Saxony FreiePresse article (in German)--which includes the photo of the makers at right. From left--the fabricator, machinist Matt Krahn, and the designers Grantland Hall and Martin Wolf (Martin's photo).winter

The past weeks have brought significant progress to the summer construction projects--one of these--a significant effort to lower the stair tower in the beer can was recently completed. This was required because the station is settling faster than the vertical tower structure. The project involved setting up screw jacks on each of the ten columns and slowly lowering the steel structure 12 inches in two six-inch lifts. Modifications to the plumbing, piping, and elevator systems were also required. The result--perhaps one or two less stair steps in that torturous stair climb! Meanwhile, the other projects including the ice tunnel wall cutting and escape raise work, as well as the new DSCS platform are also well underway.

The McMurdo shipping season is fast approaching. The first part of that will be the icebreaking by the Coast Guard's Polar Star. It departed Honolulu on Friday 15 December local time (gCaptain article) and arrived in Lyttelton on the 29th. They stayed there for the New Years weekend, during which time some of the crew were to participate in a tree-planting project in the area of last year's Port Hills fire ( article). They were to head south on 2 January, taking with them a New Zealand naval officer who will be observing things. Meanwhile, the cargo vessel Ocean Giant left Port Hueneme on 2 January SP time and is now heading southwest toward Lyttelton...and the tanker Maersk Peary is heading southeast in the Indian Ocean after transiting the Suez Canal and the Red Sea.

Christmas dinner at PoleMerry Christmas! At right...the Christmas dinner, which happened on Christmas Eve. Christmas morning brought the latest rendition of the Race Around the World. That dinner photo is from Kelly Brunt...she and her NASA traverse team were a bit delayed in their departure, so they were around for the festivities, before eventually setting off around 2 January. As for their traverse on:

Brunt's traverse route16 interesting NASA science traverse is about to get underway from Pole. Glaciologist Kelly Brunt, along with cryospheric scientist Tom Neumann (and a lucky mountaineer and mechanic to be named later) will set out on 21 December in two Pisten Bullys, each towing a magic carpet (plastic sled) carrying their supplies and equipment. This will be a 470-mile 2-3 week traverse. The goal is to provide accuracy assessment and ground truth for the IceSat-2 satellite (which will be launched in 2018 to measure and track ice sheet elevation changes). They will head north initially along the SPoT traverse route, and then turn east to follow the 88ºS parallel to 131ºE, where they will turn south and head back to Pole (map at left). Most of this terrain is unexplored. They will collect GPS elevation data and set up reflector cubes that the ICESat laser beams may be able to find. Both Kelly and Tom are no strangers to the ice--Kelly has worked on various other projects on continent and remotely with IceBridge as well as in Greenland, and Tom wintered at Troll in 2007 before the first year of the Norwegian-American traverse. More project info... as well as their blog!

11 December. By this point the major summer projects are finally ramping up after the early season flight delays. On station, the big ones are the rework of the ice tunnel escape raises (emergency access ladders--something that has been cussed and discussed for several seasons), the upgrade of what originally was the GOES-MARISAT antenna (both of those satellites are no longer around) to handle the current DSCS satellite, and the relocation of the sheet metal shop--the last of the old construction Jamesways originally put up to support the elevated station construction. Meanwhile, on the science side, perhaps the largest project is the expansion of the Askaryan Radio Array (ARA) project from three to six sites--the first major expansion of this University of Wisconsin project since it was originally set up west of the IceCube laboratory in 2011-12.

Otherwise, the first group of NGO tourists visited Pole recently after having been flown in from Union Glacier...and most of the long polar and other NGO treks are well underway (details).

The Coast Guard icebreaker Polar Star headed south from Seattle a week of 11 December they were approaching Hawaii. The cargo ship, presumably once again the Ocean Giant, will be heading south from Port Hueneme at the end of the month.

the traverse vehicles in front of the stationthe traverse en route4 December...the first South Pole Traverse (SPot) reached Pole last Thursday the 30th. Two photos: the one at left is from Sheryl Seagraves, some of the equipment in front of the station shortly after arrival. The photo at right is earlier and also of interest. It was taken by members of the Spectre Expedition team, who met up with the traverse team on about 25 November at about 87ºS. The expedition was headed north to the Gothic Mountains where they intend to do some significant rock climbing...they briefly followed the traverse route, which allowed them to get some serious kiting on the freshly broken tractor trail. The second traverse left McMurdo around the same time, and should get to Pole around the 21st.

Tuesday 28 November: the dearth of flights continued...until yesterday. On Tuesday the 21st was the last ChC-McM flight to bring Polies south--the New Zealand Air Force 757. But they ended up being stuck in McMurdo over the Saturday Thanksgiving holiday, as did the last seven 2016 winterover Polies who'd flown north to McM on the 22nd. But as I write this, an aircraft just left Christchurch, which should get those last winterovers in ChC early Tuesday morning. And the waiting Polies in McMurdo, including a large SPT crew, reached Pole around 2300 on Monday the 27th.

21 November: a bit more of an update on the Pole flights (or lack thereof). As of the 20th there had been exactly THREE Herc flights to Pole...the most recent of which was that DV flight mentioned below. Which had an extremely rough landing...touching down on the last 1000 feet of the skiway. Well, there WAS another Pole flight on 18 November...but it was a C-17 doing the annual airdrop practice, and it obviously didn't land. But it DID stop at McM on its way north to pick up waiting Pole wo's and others and transport them to Christchurch, although they did carry enough fuel to not land on the way north if the McM weather had turned bad. Did the airdrop drop anything useful? No. Just sand or shredded paper (?). Another good bit of insight on the recent McMurdo weather--this blog post from the University of Wisconsin automated weather station team stating that the McM weather at this time of year is the worst that blogger Carol Costanza and others have ever seen. Slight update...this morning, folks were being checked in at the CDC for a southbound C-17 flight...they haven't posted that they were sent back to their hotels, so hopefully they are in the air as I post this.

18 November...and it has been more than a week since there have been any McM-Pole flights...or ChCh-McM flights, for that matter. Bad weather can be blamed for some of this...a couple of days ago McM was in Condition 1. But at other times the weather seemed perfect. So...this has left the remaining winterovers are stuck at Pole, while others have been stuck at McMurdo...not to mention many southbound pax also stranded. The most recent ChC-McM B-757 was just cancelled, and the next McM-Pole flight is currently scheduled for Sunday 19 November...the NYANG normally does not fly on Sundays.

Perhaps the last flight in and out of Pole may have been this one on 9 November. After leaving Pole, McM was socked in so the aircraft and passengers spent the night at the Italian station on Terra Nova Bay. There were no Polies on board, it was a DV flight, so presumably there were USAF public affairs folks presumably that's why that article was written.

But that's not to say that there haven't been flights into Pole. On the 13th, the first AL&E Twin Otter showed up from Union Glacier, bringing staff to start opening up the NGO/tourist camp. And the NGO trekkers have already started heading south. Meanwhile, the first AL&E Ilyushin IL-76TD aircraft arrived at UG from Punta Arenas on 4 November--two weeks earlier than last year due to good weather. And the flight brought Ben Saunders, the Ice Maiden team, as well as Astrid Furholt and Jan Sverre Sivertsen".

8 usual, more LC-130 flights had been scheduled in the past week, and cancelled for various reasons, some for weather, some for ??. But the second one finally did show up late evening on Tuesday the 7th, taking about 30 winterovers north. The summer season is well and truly underway.

More strange sad news from Washington state about an old subject...Al Baker's 52-year prison sentence for murdering his reported fourth wife Kathie Hill Baker in June 2012. On 6 October 2017 it was reported that he'd filed another appeal, this time claiming that his trial attorney had been ineffective. ?? the story yourself in this 6 November Whidbey News-Times article.

Trivia with a bit of an update: to date the NOAA winterover teams have included a total of 13 women over the years. As of now, the 2018 w/o team will consist of two women--both the NOAA Corps officer and the civilian tech. Only once before did the NOAA team include two women--that was in 1993 when there were three NOAA folks wintering. The two women were Katy McNitt Jensen and Kathie Hill, who was not part of the ongoing NOAA global monitoring team, but rather monitoring a separate wind profiling project. Yes, THAT Kathie Hill who was murdered in Whidbey Island, Washington, in 2012...per the above paragraph.

a fake LC-130 photo in front of the NOAA webcamYes...the winter is over! The first Herc arrived on Wednesday 1 November, after 2 Baslers showed up on the previous Monday and Tuesday, bringing the first eight new people. The Herc brought in 40 more folks. And now the winterovers have started to leave! Of interest to me of course was this NOAA webcam photo (left) which appeared on Monday. is not an LC-130 taking off between the station and ARO...rather a small photo suspended in front of the camera with the bamboo fishing pole. The NOAA guys are great people.

first Basler at Pole for 2017-1826 October...DA PLANE! At right, the first of two transiting flights showed up on 22 October from Rothera en route to McMurdo...amidst the huge piles of snow from recent storms. New people!! This Basler stayed only an hour to refuel, but the Twin Otter that showed up a few hours later stayed overnight...well, two nights, actually, before the weather at McMurdo improved. Before it departed, a second Twin Otter showed up. And yes, the flights brought freshies...including mandarins, pineapple, Kiwi fruit, and more. Photo from Richard Osburn, thanks! Here's a closer look at the Basler from Martin Wolf...note the prop blades! Meanwhile, some of the 2018 winterovers have gathered for training in Colorado.It looks like a big year for field camps/small aircraft, as there were to be as many as FIVE more Baslers and Twin Otters passing through Pole in the coming days...some of these aircraft are chartered to USAP/NSF, others to other national programs including Australia. The isolation is over...can the LC-130's be far behind? The opening flight is currently scheduled for 1 November.

Other preparations for other visitors...AL&E got their first two opening/setup flights into Union Glacier in the past week. Just in time, perhaps, as the first expeditioners heading to Pole (as well as Mt. Vinson) will be arriving shortly. Who is coming this year? Check out the list! Remember that this is the only website that has been listing and tracking these expeditions for 19 straight years...

18 October...the first main body C-17 arrived at McMurdo on 13 October, several days late due to weather delays...not at all unusual at this time of year. Meanwhile, the LC-130 Hercs have been heading south from Schenectady...the first one left on 13 October, and two more departed on the 17th. All 3 should be in ChCh by the end of this week (Stars and Stripes article). Also expected next week at McMurdo is the FAA's Challenger 600 business jet...for runway certifications. As for Pole, the opening Herc flight is scheduled two weeks from today, and the transiting Twin Otters could arrive from Rothera by the end of this week.

The Antarctic Sun podcastSome new and different stuff...PODCASTS! Actually the Antarctic Sun podcast isn't exactly new...there were two episodes last season and two more so far this season. The most recent episode takes a look at "The Galley." It's available from the link at left as well as from your favorite podcast app. And there's another one-off one out there...last July the folks at the Antarctic Report interviewed that intrepid German 13x winterover Robert Schwarz. For over 30 minutes. Have a listen!

7 October...less than 2 weeks until the Twin Otters show up at Pole en route from Rothera to McMurdo. Perhaps bringing freshies. And weather permitting, of course. Lots of storms lately. A week ago there were 41-knot winds, and at -50ºF the wind chill was in three digits.

Poetry time! Since this past May, Antarctic-themed poetry has been being collected for an exhibition to be staged this summer at Pole. This is a project of 25-year-old Auckland native Laetitia Laubscher--participant in the University of Canterbury's Antarctic studies program. Less than a month left for entry is here.

Auroras 2017 highlightsThe winter auroras are but a memory...but Robert Schwarz captured them in this awesome highlight reel. Most of this is time lapse, but several of the clips are in real time. With great musical accompaniment. As Robert says...turn off the lights, relax for 15 minutes, and have a watch!

Scott statue under repairAs of 6 October, people in Christchurch can once again see Robert Falcon Scott...or at least his statue, which was toppled by the February 2011 earthquake, which caused it to tumble from its plinth, and upon hitting the soft ground...break its legs, which were the weakest point. In the immediate aftermath of the quake, other priorities were more urgent, although for a time in 2012 the damaged statue was on display in Hagley Park in a glass case. At left, a late September view of the statue being reinstalled. It was formally unveiled on 6 October.

Serious attention was turned to the restoration of this statue in early 2016, after repairs to other statues had been completed...and after other options, such as displaying the unrepaired statue and constructing an entirely new memorial, were considered. The issues included not only displaying an accurately restored and strengthened statue, but also meeting building code safety requirements. Accordingly, a scheme was developed (and tested) to use carbon fiber rods drilled into the legs and fixed using adhesive at the broken joints. The plinth was reinforced by drilling and epoxy grouting stainless steel rods. And the statue was attached to the plinth using a heavy steel spring to provide flexibility during future earthquakes.

the Sun is up at Pole22 September...the sun is up! I'll spare you a refracted image from earlier this week, but instead present Martin Wolf's photo (right) today of the real Sun above the horizon! Time to bring out the lawn chairs, shorts and cold beers (yes, that happened too). The beer was cold, as it should be--as of now (about noon on Friday) it's a cool -95ºF/-71ºC. The official sunrise dinner, with a food truck theme, was held on Saturday the 23rd.

10 September...yes, it has been awhile, but more on that later. First...the effects of Hurricane Harvey were felt...on the seventh continent. UTMB in Galveston is the longtime USAP medical subcontractor, dealing with hiring of medical folks, PQ processing, and medical consultations from the ice. NSF announced this week that UTMB was being impacted by the hurricane, but it now appears that things were already back to normal, unlike September of my 2008 winter when Hurricane Ike clobbered Galveston and wiped out UTMB for many months.

cool temperature in AugustAugust brought with it the coldest temperatures of the winter, as documented at left. It was almost as cold 2 weeks earlier. And of course the skies are much too light to make auroras or all but the brightest stars visible--and the window covers were removed at the beginning of September. But August was an amazing month for auroras. Robert Schwarz has put more than 100 awesome images here...and there are videos on his Facebook page which anyone should be able to access whether or not you use FB.

Other events that have happened recently include the "Christmas in July" which of course included that insane inane gift exchange that I remember from my Christmases at Pole in the late 80s. Too bad we didn't do one of those during my winters in this century.

Another unique August event...on 4 August, the ARRL conducted a remote exam at Pole for amateur radio licenses. Not the first time for this...which was in 2010, but this time there were 12 examinees, the largest ever such remote exam event. Folks had to wait until the DSCS satellite was back the examination required three volunteer examiners, one of these was James Casey at Pole (his blog post); James had also conducted the ham radio class. Pole amateur radio operatorsBut the exam required a total of 3 examiners, so two more folks monitored things remotely via Skype. At right, Martin Wolf's photo of the exam group as well as a link to my timeline information.

In July and August I spent 2-1/2 weeks on an Alaska trip...mostly a tour...which included time in backcountry Denali, an amazing flight around the mountain, and a Prince William Sound cruise. And there were Polies the Skyline Lodge in Denali park as well as in Anchorage.

And then there was the 21 August total eclipse, which I saw with ice friends north of Lusk, Wyoming. I'll spare you my lousy attempts at photographing it (I was more interested in just watching)...but it does bring to mind the partial eclipse I did see at Pole on 27 January 1990 SP time. partial eclipseThis was actually an annular eclipse, with the annular portion only visible in places where nobody was. As I saw was cloudy, which meant that I could look at (and sort of photograph it, left) without any glasses or lenses, while I was doing a long morning run on the skiway. I still don't understand the bright image to the right of the crescent sun, perhaps that was a reflection from my camera lens. Interestingly, I saw another partial solar eclipse 7 months later in Anchorage, on 22 July.

21 July, now for a bit of news from Pole. First of all, at the beginning of July the DSCS satellite terminal in Christchurch FINALLY got fixed...and this returned the fastest satellite to service after more than 2 months. The impact--lots of delayed large software updates and science data...not to mention a few bits of entertainment such as the first Game of Thrones episode. And at the same time, the folks geared up for the South Pole Winter Games...these contests included physical events such as volleyball, a treadmill 10k, and a Vertical Tower well as mental events including Rubik's Cube, Settlers of Catan, and Supreme Commander. Many medals were awarded. And on 15 July there was a bit of excitement when one of the power plant alternator bearings caught fire, resulting in a 10 minute power outage. The power plant person on duty was able to extinguish the fire with a fire extinguisher, and the alternator has since been replaced.

replacing the hallway subfloorAnd winter construction continued...the current major project is the subfloor replacement in some of the hallways. This is a continuation from last winter, and once again it requires frequent and frequently changing detours around the work areas...not to mention a good bit of dust. At right, a look at some of the work underway in the second floor A2 hallway near the galley (more info and photos).

A couple of website notes: first, I try to collect the aerial photos from each year, but I've been behind in putting them up. No more...I've just added the 2016-17 and 2013-14 photos, although I'm still looking for the missing years. And I also have reviewed and updated the list of nongovernmental Pole visitors for the upcoming seasons.

20 July...lots of Antarctic news from the Antarctic coast has come up in the past week. The best coverage has been from the New York Times--perhaps because they sent an investigative news team to McMurdo this past summer. Said team attempted to get to Pole five times...including several cancelled flights as well as one boomerang where they flew over Pole but were unable to land due to low visibility. Anyway, their most recent article appeared online on 17 July and in print the next day...a detailed and serious article titled Where Else does the U.S. Have an Infrastructure Problem? Antarctica." It addresses the deteriorating McMurdo infrastructure, the need for new icebreakers, and the increasing development of the Chinese Antarctic program--and it also mentions and depicts folks you and I know. As for the icebreaker issue, here's an 11 July article with more information (thank you Russell Rapp) which provides more information and discusses this 11 July report by the National Academies of Science, Engineering, and Medicine.

Iceberg A-68And then there was last week's news...the calving of a large iceberg from the Larsen C ice shelf on the east side of the Antarctic Peninsula at some time between 10 and 12 July 2017. This got lots of news coverage, but again the New York Times covered it well, with great detail, photos, and graphics. The impending calving of this new iceberg, now named A-68, has been watched and extensively covered for the past year or so. At 2,240 square miles, it has been compared in US media to the size of Delaware (other media around the world have used other comparisons...for example it has been said to be 4 times the size of greater London). But...this iceberg is a little guy compared to B-15, which calved off of the Ross Ice Shelf on 17 March 2000. That iceberg was 4,200 square miles--a size often compared to the state of Connecticut. B-15 started to break up soon after it calved, and A-68 has also already lost a few small pieces. And B-15 and its fragments, being close to Ross Island, seriously threatened the shipping to McMurdo and also impacted the penguin colonies on Ross Island. A few more quick links about the Larsen C iceberg--this NASA article (source of the image at left); this 17 July BBC News story, and this 12 July "The Conversation" article. And for comparative reference, here is a 2001 USA Today article about the B-15 iceberg, as well as the B-15 Wikipedia article. Like the Larsen C calving, the impending calving of B-15 was anticipated and watched for from about 3 years before it actually broke off.

Pole midwinter photo26 June...happy (slightly belated) Midwinters Day! The official solstice happened on 21 June at 0424 UTC/1624 South Pole time. At left is the greeting card sent out to the other Antarctic stations as well as to the rest of us. The midwinter dinner was on Sunday 18 June, the first day of a two-day weekend (more info about all of the festivities).

signed Antarctica mapA winter anywhere in Antarctica is never forgotten by anyone...and needless to say, those of us who have wintered at Pole continue to mark the midwinter date. Forty years ago (gulp) 21 of us wintered at Pole in 1977; we continue to send each other midwinter greetings every year. This year, one of us sent around a photo of the Antarctica map most of us signed at our two reunions in Boulder in June of 2000 and 2007--something I'd actually forgotten about. The 2000 gathering included all 21 of us, well, including our visit to Gary Rosenberger's grave--he died in a motorcycle accident near Queenstown less than a week after we left the ice in 1977--he's buried in Boulder. And sadly, since our last meetup Lee Sundblad has also left this world.

And more recently, in 2004, 75 folks wintered at Pole...unlike 1977 this group included WOMEN! A few of this group (as well as yours truly) got together in Denver last weekend for a mini reunion. Event photos are here.

6 June...midwinter month. Pole continues to be humming well and lets look back to last June. I finally "think" I've got the June 2016 medevac well covered. I was traveling when it happened and couldn't get everything written up at the time, but this year there has been more/better media coverage out there, including some great video. And fortunately the two patients are both doing well. Meanwhile, Anthony Bourdain's Antarctica show aired on 4 June in the US on CNN...some familiar faces and stories from the 2016-17 summer season. And it may yet be out there on repeats, Amazon Prime, your cable system, or for download somewhere. Very well done!

auroras over the radomes29 May...things are very quiet at Pole. Which is mostly good, meaning that everyone is busy doing science, out watching auroras, or...involved in those continuing maintenance projects. As for the aurora, at right is a photo with amazing blue color by Hunter Davis from a couple of days ago. Here's a better look from Hunter's website, lots of great photography here for viewing or for purchase. Update...this photo and a few others were shared on EarthSky on 29 May!

Another reason things seem to be quiet at Pole is that DSCS, the fastest of the 3 satellites, has been mostly unavailable for awhile, apparently due to some significant problems with the satellite terminal in Christchurch. Apparently these problems were significant enough to require NSF to authorize $$ for repairs, but other approvals are still pending.

The 40th Antarctic Treaty meeting, in Beijing, has been underway since 23 May, continuing until 1 June. As in the past couple of years, not much news has surfaced in the media. About all I've seen are reports about China's first paper, about the expansion of their research program (a report from China's Global Times)--they're building a second icebreaker, and planning a fifth research station in the Ross Sea area as well as an airfield (near Zhongstan Station per this April 2017 China Daily article). Interestingly, ABC News chose the headline " mining in its immediate plans..." when they reported on that Chinese paper.

That fifth Chinese station---earlier reports indicated it would be in Terra Nova Bay, but no location has been selected yet. This past summer, the icebreaker R/V Xue Long investigated a number of sites; the present alternatives include Cape Bird, Marble Point, Inexpressible Island (southwest of the Italian Mario Zucchelli Station in Terra Nova Bay), Brown Peninsula (north of Mt. Discovery), and Newport Point (between Cape Royds and Horseshoe Bay) (February 2017 Xinhua news agency article). Interestingly, the Brown Peninsula and Marble Point sites have no maritime access. And I must also note that Newport Point (called New Port Point on some Chinese sites) was named for NZ carpenter Terry Newport, one of three fatalities of a 13 October VXE-6 helicopter crash at that location.

nacreous clouds behind the CD3 Williams memorial29 May is Memorial Day, when Americans remember veterans. Hundreds of thousands of these have fought and died, other combat veterans lived to return home, and then there were those service members who gave their lives in Antarctica. This classic photo silhouettes the memorial to Construction Driver third class Richard Thomas Williams, who died on 6 January 1956, when his D-8 went through the ice as he was hauling construction cargo from one of the cargo ships to Ross Island. The photo, from the USAP photo library, is by friend and fellow Pole 2005 winterover, he took it on 14 August 2006 during one of his McMurdo winters (link to original photo). That "Our Lady of the Snows" shrine was dedicated on 6 January 1957. In the background are polar stratospheric (nacreous) clouds. These are highest of all clouds at 80,000 feet and frequently visible at McMurdo in the spring...but they are also a cause of ozone depletion.

Speaking of McMurdo, the next of the every-six-week flights scheduled for this winter was scheduled for 31 May. But the winter flights for 2018 have been cancelled. Present plans call for one "reverse winfly" flight in April, and no further flights until WINFLY.

South Pole TelescopeApril aurora12 April...and it's getting dark. The first auroras have been seen...and documented! At right, a link to Hunter Davis's photo, which he shared with The auroras had to compete with a rather spectacular full moon. Meanwhile, the newly upgraded South Pole Telescope is in the midst of a 10-day Event Horizon Telescope event...hoping to grab exclusive images of the "event horizon" of black holes--the area where the black hole's gravitational pull is strong enough to prevent anything from escaping. Here's more coverage. Meanwhile, closer to "home," the menu selection at Pole will be a bit limited for several weeks, as the kitchen was shut down to allow for cleaning and sealing the ductwork as well as replacement of the copper force main piping. Microwave munchies, anyone? And back in the northern hemisphere, a new tourist venture has been announced for next season...two week road trips to Pole and the Ross Ice Shelf by Arctic Trucks. Only $165,000 per person, but folks like British fund managers and Swiss bankers have already booked. Here's the 23 March Bloomberg article, as well as a link to the vendor, The Explorations Company.

26 other news, some of you may remember that I also have a Palmer Station site. I finally decided it needed a bit of updating, perhaps partly because the 2017 winterovers are now approaching the Drake Passage on their way south. So have a look!

the sun setting behind the ceremonial polethe sun close to sunsetThe sun is setting at Pole. The official equinox happened on 20 March at 2329 South Pole time, or 1029 UTC (daylight time for Pole and NZ doesn't end until 0300 on 2 April). So, as for the actual Pole sunset--the green flash showed up on 24 March. This is the first 2-day weekend of the winter, with the sunset dinner on Sunday the 26th. The classic photo at left was taken by IceCube guy Martin Wolf on 23 March. And check out this timelapse video from Robert Schwarz of the Sun circling the station between 8 and 13 March (right).

Oops...the photo at right below, taken on 5 March, shows the R/V Hero sitting on the bottom, where it ended up the day before. This is the Palix River estuary at Bay Center, Washington, 40 miles north of Astoria, Oregon...near extremely productive oyster beds. Perhaps it was a lot of rain...not uncommon for this time of year...or perhaps the pumps failed. No word yet on what actually happened, the R/V Hero on the bottombut on 6 March the Coast Guard hired a contractor to deal with the lube oil and diesel fuel that was starting to leak. 21 March updates...the contractor is hard at work. The latest news and details, updated frequently.

the current SSC buildingFuture McMurdo news...the original master plan is now FOUR years old. Yes, it has seen some major revisions, but now it appears that something is actually to get built. In February of this year the program held meetings with prospective bidders for a new design-build project--an addition and upgrade to the existing SSC (left) to house additional data center and operations space. The contract will not be awarded until after a site visit in 2017-18, with project completion scheduled for 2019-20. This could be the first significant USAP building construction project that engages a contractor separate from ASC. The details....

Another reason for that dome photo at right...there was an opportunity to get some pieces of it ;) . After skipping last year, it seems that there WAS an Antarctic auction this year...5-6 April, accessible only from a mobile app, although the items were available for inspection/pickup at Port Hueneme. Here's the basic website which includes one version of the auction flyer. Another link to the auction brochure with photos is available here. The auction itself was online only, through their mobile app, which no longer contains listings or photos of the items, the dome as viewed from a kite in 2001 as the Ocean Giant just got back to Port Hueneme on 1 March. The website also announces that they are selling off some of the old dome pieces which have been sitting in Port Hueneme for awhile. More info and item photos are on their Facebook page,. Yes, they DID auction off 15 of the dome panels (photo from the auction site)...some of these went for upwards of $800.

So what's that photo of the dome at right all about? As of 1 March, things are nice and quiet at Pole which is as it should I'll share the first of several reviews of the first of THREE recently acquired new books about the winterover experience. Two of them were written BY winterovers...and the one featuring that dome photo is nonfiction, so you can rest assured that no one dies. Seriously...the book is One Day, One Night, Portraits of the South Pole, by Jennifer McCallum and her then-husband and atmospheric scientist John Bird, describing their 2001 winter...which included among other things some amazing kite photography, as well as that Foucault pendulum experiment in the then-under-construction beer can. I said no one dies...but they did witness and describe the midwinter medevac of Dr. Ron Shemenski at temperatures of -95ºF/-71ºC. The couple are Canadians...and after John was offered a winter research assignment with the University of Illinois LIDAR experiment, a frantic scramble ensued so that his wife Jen could certify dual Canadian/US citizenship, which would allow her to be hired as a DA. Here's John's website about the book...from which one learns that John was a speaker, as was US Secretary of State John Kerry at the November 2016 COP-22 climate change conference in Marrakech. I will say that while the book contains photos, it is not a picture if you are interested in a hard copy to read, purchase the paperback; if you want to see the color photos, buy the Kindle edition. If you want to do both, buy both...rather than investing in the $85 color version of the paperback.

Another medevac from McMurdo...remember that a month ago a passenger on the cruise ship M/V Ortelius was flown to McMurdo by that vessel's helicopter and then flown to Christchurch on a regularly scheduled C-17 flight. That occurred during the Ortelius' westbound cruise from Ushuaia to Bluff (Invercargill). Well, on 28 February, during the Ortelius' return cruise to Ushuaia, there was a similar medevac event, with the patient flown to McMurdo by the ship's helicopter on 27 February (NSF press release). This time...there were no more scheduled C-17 flights, so the program had to call upon the AAD for help. Accordingly, the A-319 Airbus flew from Hobart to the Phoenix runway on the 28th, picked up the patient, and flew to Christchurch...not long before a Condition 1 storm hit the McMurdo area.

The Polar Sea in better daysLots of icebreaker news...first of all, something that has been obvious for awhile was recently announced...the inactive Polar Sea (left) will not be reactivated...rather it will serve as a "parts donor" for the Polar Star, according to this 17 February US Naval Institute article. This Seapower posting states that the three main shafts from the Polar Sea will be transferred to the Polar Star during its next maintenance period. As for the next generation of icebreakers...on 22 February, Fox News reported that $20 million in new contracts had been awarded to study heavy polar icebreaker design and analysis...the goal being to award the first construction contract in 2019, in order to obtain a new class of ships between 2023 and 2026. Not all of such contracts are publicly announced, but two items of interest I was able to find--this $4 million study contract awarded to Halter Marine on 22 February 2017, as well as details of this 18 March 2016 "Industry Day" held in MacLean, VA. And a more recent "Industry Day" took place on 6 February 2017. All of these links include further links to extensive technical details and schedules.

last flight of 2016-17It's that time...15 February, the last LC-130 for 8-1/2 months departed Pole, taking away the last few summer folks and leaving behind 46 souls, many of whom will spend some time watching The Thing movies this weekend. Also, the NOAA team was briefly interviewed by their PR team and asked about their thoughts at station closing. At right, Dave Riebel's photo from that interview. There's also a video(!)

The NGO drama is not over yet. Although ALE has closed operations, solo kiter Mike Horn was still on the ice after leaving Pole on 11 January heading to Dumont d'Urville. He was not relying on ALE or ALCI to pick him up...rather his yacht Pangaea was supposed to get him. had to turn back to Hobart due to electrical issues, and it could be a week or more before Pangaea could make it to the French base. On 8 February Mike reached the coast at Dumont d'Urville after some impressive kiting distances--he was not afraid of taking chances with the wind. He was supposed to be picked up on 15 February, but that didn't work. He left DdU on the weekend of 18 February...aboard the French supply vessel M/V L'Astrolabe...and was reunited with Pangaea back in Hobart on the 24th. Thus ending the extended South Pole tourist season for 2016-17.

Back in McMurdo...the Ocean Giant left the ice pier at around 0100 1 February and headed for Christchurch. And it turns out that the predictions of heavy ice conditions were correct. The ice pilot on the Ocean Giant reported:

It was a heavy ice year. Seventy miles of sea ice in McMurdo sound. From Beaufort Island to the ice pier. Did a bit of unescorted crunching barely making four knots at full power. Hooked up with the Polar Star off Cape Bird for a sixty plus mile transit in first year fast ice. First off...Polar Star did a fabulous job with channel preparation and transit execution. Can't say enough how enjoyable it was working with that Captain. He worked his way up the ranks, had a lot of boat driving experience and time on the icebreaker Mackinaw in the Great Lakes.

tanker Maersk Peary departingOn the third, the tanker Maersk Peary took its place. If you watched the McMurdo pier webcam you could see how the offload was progressing--as the fuel was pumped ashore, the ship rose in the water. In the early morning of 7 February the tanker was departing--the photo at left is from 0255, and you can see that it is fully ballasted down with sea water. Shortly afterward the Polar Star moved briefly to the ice pier before heading north toward Lyttleton--to be the first Coast Guard icebreaker to call in New Zealand in decades because of the old nuclear weapons's the article updated 8 February, as well as this 10 February NSF press release and this 9 February press release from the U.S. Embassy in Wellington. This port call in New Zealand will save fuel and transit time, as otherwise the Polar Star would have to stop at Hobart, Tasmania.

Oh...also in 1 February there was a medevac--the second non-USAP medevac of this summer season. It seems that a 66-year-old Dutch woman had a stroke while traveling on the cruise ship MV Ortelius in the Ross Sea north of McMurdo. NSF announced that they would assist in the medevac (NSF press release). The cruise ship headed south, and on 31 January the patient was flown by the MV Ortelius's helicopter 60 miles south to McMurdo, from where she would be flown north on the 1 February C-17 flight to Christchurch. Here is the initial 31 January Christchurch Press article, as well as a 2 February update after she'd arrived in Christchurch.

hauling off the old rodwell buildingThings are winding down at Pole as it is about 2 weeks before closing. Folks are finishing up with landscaping after the old rodwell building was dug up and hauled off (right) and all but one of the old construction shop Jamesways were demo'd.

If the cargo operations are underway at McMurdo, that means there are less than 3 weeks left before Pole station closing. The last of the NGO skiers/kiters have completed their Pole trips...all except for Mike Horn, who is still heading north, now about 560 miles away from his destination at Dumont d'Urville. He's not dependent upon ALE or ALCI to pick him up...rather, his yacht Pangaea headed south from Perth on 29 January so he can continue the next leg of his travels.

Polar Star in Winter Quarters BayShipping updates...the icebreaker Polar Star was sighted on 16 January by some of the Polie winterovers at McMurdo for R&R. On the afternoon of 17 January it showed up on the webcam (left) approaching the ice pier...although it would do a bit more channel clearing work before docking. You could have watched the activity in and around the pier by selecting the McMurdo Pier Camera from this webcam link as well as the 24 hour archive (slide icon). Also, this gCaptain article describes their voyage with more photos; it also notes that this year there was more than 60 miles of ice to break, significantly more than the 12-13 miles they found in the past few years. cargo ship offloadAnd the research vessel Nathaniel B. Palmer, after passing the Bay of Whales as it cruised west along the edge of the Ross Ice Shelf (aka The Barrier as named by the early explorers, because that is what it looks like), arrived off McMurdo on the 19th but couldn't dock because the Polar Star was still taking on fuel at the ice pier. Here is Kris Perry's offshore view of McMurdo from the Nathaniel B. Palmer. By Sunday 22 January the research vessel had replaced the Coast Guard icebreaker at the pier. Not long afterward it departed for Lyttelton. The cargo ship Ocean Giant showed up on the 25th...and cargo offload is now well underway, as you can see from the webcam (28 January sample at right). The deck cargo has been offloaded, and they're digging into the holds.

the 2017 South Pole markerHappy New Year! Yes, the holiday season was celebrated in a traditional manner, with the festive Christmas Eve dinner on the 24th...followed by the 2 mile Race Around the World on Christmas morning...and a holiday brunch. New Years Eve brought a major party in the gym...and the next morning the 2017 Pole Marker (right) was unveiled...UPDATE! The marker designer, 2016 winterover Warren Shipley, provided detailed information about the marker design...and more photos! Check this out!.

It's January...and that means that the shipping season is approaching. The cargo vessel Ocean Giant headed south from Port Hueneme on schedule on about 31 December, it will call at Lyttelton on the 17th; the tanker Maersk Peary was heading southeast after leaving the Gulf of Aden. It will call at Fremantle WA on 14 January before continuing to McMurdo; and the icebreaker Polar Star left its homeport in Seattle some time ago. It stopped in Sydney for a few days, sailed from there on New Years Day, and as of the fourth it was 30 miles west of Macquarie Island. It is supposed to reach the ice edge sometime the week of 8 January. AND...the research vessel Nathaniel B. Palmer is on a science cruise making its way west along the Antarctic coast from Marguerite Bay...scheduled to reach McMurdo around 20 January. Want to know what it's doing? Check out IT guy/friend David Pablo Cohn's blog as well as University of Rhode Island professor Tatiana Rynearson's science blog.

the collapsed BIFThere are lots of projects happening at Pole this summer? Will they all get finished? One reason they might not is because as of New Years Day, Pole had received only 29 LC-130 flights...which is about half of what had been scheduled to date. Partly because of frequent mechanical issues, partly because the plan in recent years is not to have C-17 support during the middle of the season...meaning that the NYANG has to cover all of the flights between ChCh and McMurdo. And partly because of ??? Needless to say, the lack of Pole flights is seriously impacting fuel deliveries, science cargo...and mail. One project which does not require any construction material to be flown in is a major effort to demo or move old unneeded and drifted-in facilities in the vicinity of the summer camp. Including the former structurally unsound balloon inflation facility (BIF) which was undermined several years ago when the sewer bulb overfilled into the firn. One end of the cryo building was turned into the new BIF last summer, although there is some remaining work to do on that facility. Anyway, at left is what the old BIF looked like when it was safely pulled down with the D-7 (?) and some well-designed rigging. More photos are here...and I'll have more soon of the ongoing demo of the old construction trades shop Jamesways.

The first South Pole Traverse of three scheduled for this season showed up on 5 December...yes, Forrest McCarthy was along, and yes, he created this video! ( I wrote this on 14 December Forrest was already chilling out in Christchurch....) The second traverse showed up in time for the Christmas festivities and headed north on the 30th...hauling a bunch of those waste triwalls out.

Buzz Aldrin in hospitalBuzz Aldrin, the second person to walk on the Moon and currently 86, was medevaced from Pole on 1 December South Pole time after suffering from apparent altitude sickness while visiting with a private tour group organized by White Desert. He was flown to McMurdo that evening and arrived in Christchurch the morning of 2 December. Here is my coverage with more photos.

Dr. Jefferies at Pole in January 2008A new solar observatory...or perhaps an updated reprise of an older one. Georgia State professor Stuart Jefferies is leading a multinational team that will reestablish the "South Pole Solar Observatory" starting in December 2016 (Georgia State University press release). Stuart is no stranger to this stuff at Pole...this is his seventh visit, and the hero shot at left is from his previous Pole project in January 2008 (more photos from that visit). His first such venture was in 1987-88 with Marty Pomerantz, when they installed an upgraded optical system at the Pomerantz Land solar telescope site 5 miles east of the station (see this October 1988 Antarctic Journal article ). In 2002-03 and 2007-08, Jefferies was the principal investigator for what was known as the Jefferies Solar Observatory...more recently at a site in the dark sector about 2-1/2 miles west of DSL. The photo at left (from the Georgia State press release linked above) depicts Dr. Jefferies at that site. This first season of a 2-year project will send a total of six people to Pole over the summer to set up at the same location.

Michel's RV-8 at Mario Zucchelli baseAnother strange aircraft story just seems that 61-year-old pilot Michel Gordillo flew south from Hobart on 1 November to begin a successful crossing of Antarctica in a single-engine Vans RV-8 kit-built aircraft (right, Michel's photo of the aircraft at Mario Zucchelli station. Note that he left his skis behind to reduce fuel consumption). In theory this was a scientific venture sponsored by the Andalusian Center for Environmental Research (CEAMA, based at the University of Grenada, Spain). He was carrying an aethalometer for them in an effort to collect carbon particles from the atmosphere. Supposedly the project and flight was approved by the Spanish Polar Committee, but it was NOT recognized by the American or British programs, nor by ALE, none of whom would have provided him with fuel had he landed at one of their airfields. In a way I can't blame them...a solo pilot in a small single-engine aircraft, with admittedly little fuel reserves...collecting upper air samples which are much more easily and safely gathered by NOAA and others.

Michel's aerial view of PoleMichel was born in what was then French Cameroon, and gained his flight training and experience in the Spanish air force. On this trip, he arrived at the Italian Mario Zucchelli Station after a 16-hour flight from Hobart. He had ordered avgas to be delivered to him there from Christchurch, but after that flight was delayed he ended up using mogas. His weather window was 9 November, when he left for the 20-hour flight to Marambio. While he was offered emergency landing rights at several sites, none of them would grant him additional fuel. And he reported he was unable to contact Pole by radio...perhaps because of difficulties with his own HF radio. Given favorable tailwinds, he eventually landed at the Argentinian Marambio base (located on Seymour Island on the east side of the Antarctic Peninsula). With two hours of fuel reserve remaining. In any case, at left is his photo documentation of his Pole overflight, looks to be in the afternoon of 9 November. Here's his detailed blog entry where he describes his flight across Antarctica, as well as this news article from the Hobart, Tasmania Mercury.

C-17 certification landing15 November...after 15 months of work by half a dozen folks, the first C-17 flight landed at the new Phoenix runway (right)...twice, in fact. All part of the certification process, which is now successfully completed. Info and photos...

News from the north...includes the severe earthquake that struck New Zealand at 0002 Monday morning 14 November. At 7.8 on the moment magnitude scale, it was rated more severe than the ones that devastated Christchurch in 2010 and 2011, but as it was centered in a more rural area between Hamner Springs and Kaikoura on the northern South Island, there was less severe damage. Still, several people were killed, and damages were significant, particularly in Kaikoura, an East Coast town I'd visited in January 2014, as the main coastal state highway and rail link was severely damaged. Two links...this national article from the Christchurch Press, and another from the New Zealand Herald.

Secretary Kerry with Art Brown
Secretary Kerry chats with NSF DPP director Kelly Falkner outside of the CDC as Art Brown looks on.

Kelly Falkner introduces John Kerry to the community
Kelly Falkner introduces John Kerry to the McM community before his remarks in Building 155 (another view of Kerry addressing the crowd).

A few days before the earthquake (and as US election results were becoming known, secretary of state John Kerry made a brief visit to McMurdo station. He arrived in ChCh at 1730 Wednesday evening NZ time. The next morning (Thursday 10 November) he met with the NZ Foreign Minister Murray McCully in the morning and spent time at the Antarctic Centre and CDC clothing issue that afternoon. He flew to McMurdo on a C-17 on Friday morning. Here's the NSF press release and the Press article about his Wednesday Christchurch arrival. Immediately after his C-17 landed at McM early Friday afternoon, he and his entourage of about 13 press and staff (50 more members of his entourage had been left behind in Christchurch) were to board an LC-130 for a flight to Pole, but that was scrubbed due to weather. So he was given a helicopter tour of the Dry Valleys, visited other McM and Scott Base facilities and historic Ross Island huts, spoke for about 40 minutes to a crowd of about 450 folks in the galley on Friday evening, and later attended a smaller gala reception in the Chalet.

He flew back to Christchurch on Saturday 12 November (12 November Christchurch Press article), continuing almost immediately to Wellington where he met with Prime Minister John Key as well as Embassy staff. A few hours before the earthquake he flew to Oman en route to the United Nations COP-22 in Marrakech, where he was expected to speak. Here's the State Department page with full details of Kerry's trip, a link to all of the State Department photos including the ones I've used above, and a 14 November commentary article from the Washington Post with a few more photos.

Kim Stanley Robinson with Liz SutterA couple of days before Kerry's visit, author Kim Stanley Robinson spent a bit of time in McMurdo and also addressed an assembled crowd. He'd previously visited McMurdo and Pole with the Artists' and Writers' program in 1995-96 when he was digging up stuff for his somewhat prophetic work Antarctica. This time his visit was more of a media event, as he was researching the 1911 winter journey by Apsley Cherry-Garrard, Edward Wilson, and Henry "Birdie" Bowers to Cape Crozier to collect an unhatched penguin egg, for a Smithsonian article. He went with Elaine Hood to the site of the "stone igloo" which is well described in Cherry-Garrard's book The Worst Journey in the World. At right, he's seen with Chalet administrative secretary Liz Sutter (photo courtesy Liz Sutter from the "Great Race" website)

After the transiting aircraft, the first "real" summer flight from McMurdo was a Basler which showed up on 27 October with 8 summer folks; it took 6 winterovers north. The opening flights this season seemed to be a bit different...a few years ago there were serious efforts to schedule early arrivals on a Basler before the first Herc, but after their flights kept getting cancelled, an LC-130 actually made the opening flight. This year...there was a second Basler on 29 October, and the first LC-130 didn't show up until 2 November, followed by another Basler. At present (15 November) the LC-130 flights continue to be severely delayed.

22 October was a sad day for the US Antarctic Program...Gordon Hamilton, a 50-year-old glaciologist from the University of Maine, died after the snowmobile he was driving hit a crevasse and fell 100 feet down. This occurred at the Shear Zone, 25 miles south of McMurdo, where the Ross Ice Shelf meets the McMurdo Ice Shelf. As both of these shelves move in different directions, the area needs to be remediated by exploration, blasting, and other means before the South Pole Operational Traverse can journey through the zone with fuel and other supplies for Pole. At the time of the accident, Dr. Hamilton's science team was camped about 200 yards from the traverse remediation team, so it was a sad day for all concerned. Here is NSF's 23 October press release, a 24 October Washington Post article with an excellent photo of Gordon, and a more reflective article about Gordon from the New York Times.

first plane of the seasonAt Pole...the isolation is over. The first Basler landed on 11 October as documented by Darren Lukkari (left)... followed by a Twin Otter soon afterward. These aircraft were transiting from Rothera to McMurdo; the Basler headed north after refueling while the Twin Otter stayed overnight.

News from Colorado...starting on 11 October, many of the winterovers gathered at the YMCA in Estes Park for a few days of team-building stuff, to be followed by fire and/or medical training...after which many of them will be flying south. I met a few of them in Denver the day before.

Summer is coming...and surprisingly the first two McM main body flights, scheduled for 3 and 4 October, were NOT delayed by weather! And the Kenn Borek Air flights (two Baslers and one Twin Otter) are still scheduled for the 11th. In slightly different flight news, the long-time private company operating the Union Glacier camp/runway mainly in support of private expeditions, has completely rebranded itself as Adventure Networks and Explorations (ALE), getting rid of the former Adventure Network International nameplate of the company created by Giles and Anne Kershaw. Here's their company announcement.

And who might some of this summer's private expeditioners be? As far as I know, there is now only one website that is continuing to track them...this one.

time lapse of a NOAA balloon launchAnother unique sign of springtime at Pole--frequent NOAA ozone balloon launches. At right is a time-lapse of one of the launches (from about 14 September) showing the balloon illuminated by the glow in the sky. This was created by IceCuber Christian Krueger and shared on the NSF polar programs Facebook and Twitter accounts.

Hopefully the final bit of news from Whidbey Island, WA on this sad subject--the final appeal process for Al Baker ended on 15 September (without his knowledge, presence, or consent). He's been resentenced to the same 52-year term that he originally had received. Details in this 21 September Whidbey News-Times article.

And if the summer aircraft season is approaching, it must be the peak PQ season. Hmmmm, this just in from

McMurdo dispensaryChristina Hammock KochOn a more significant medical note, on 13 September NSF and NASA announced a joint medical collaboration, which will sponsor medical research, development and training in extreme polar environments (the NSF press release and the NASA press release). On the NASA side this will be a part of their Human Research Program to reduce the physical and mental risks of space operations on the humans who go there; on the NSF side it will mean that NASA flight surgeons will rotate through NSF's Antarctic clinics (at left, from the NSF press release, Peter Rejcek's 2006 photo of the McMurdo clinic), providing additional assistance and expertise. There will also be physical and psychological studies on volunteers in the Antarctic community. The photo at right, from the NASA press release, I recognized immediately as I'd seen it before. That's Christina Hammock Koch whom I wintered with in she's an astronaut! She assured me this was a selfie although that term wasn't in use back in 2005.

No more winfly? That's hinted at in this Antarctic Sun article. The 2015 winter saw flights to McMurdo about every six weeks; plans for next winter call for more frequent flights, perhaps once a month--this would negate the requirement for an early season cluster of flights. In other flight-related news, the new Phoenix runway at McMurdo is undergoing final shaping, leveling and compaction...with certification scheduled for November. Shortly after that occurs, Pegasus will be closed. As for Pole, preliminary work for opening the station has begun. The schedule now calls for two Baslers and one Twin Otter to show up from Rothera around 11 October en route to McMurdo.

sunrise on the polar plateauAdam Jones heading for his roomHere comes the sun! As documented at left by UT Darren Lukkari on 21 September...actually above the horizon. Interestingly, it made a brief appearance on the 7th, while still 5.9 degrees below the horizon, thanks to ducted refraction produced by an unusual bit of strong thermal layering. It only lasted a few minutes...a strange teaser. Oh, around the same time, network engineer Adam Jones was caught heading to his A1 room (right) in shirt sleeves...well, the temperature WAS in three digits. What for...well, the construction crew is replacing the floor in the second floor hallway, and the inside hall was blocked off during working hours. As documented in this IceCube weekly news report with photos by Christian Krueger. There's also his shot of that refracted sun. In the previous news report, Christian had shared this time-lapse video of removing the window covers at the end of August. (All of the recent IceCube weekly news reports are available here.)

Sad news from Australia--Anton Brown, the 2015 winterover machinist, passed away on 6 September. He was 57. Here's the brief obituary from the Perth newspaper. He, of course, created the present/2016 Pole marker; I have a few photos of him on this page.

Early in August, an intrepid multinational construction crew got together and erected...a massive igloo. Large enough to sleep five and keep them warm and toasty (well, about 0ºF/-18ºC). And then it was demo'd. Story and photos here.

Yes, as of 16 August the USAP Antarctic support prime contractor is now Leidos. Huh? The details...and of course an updated jobs page.

first WINFLY flight landing at McMurdo23 August...the first of five WINFLY flights landed at Pegasus at 1216 on 23 August (left), ending the long winter--or perhaps not exactly, as McMurdo had regular flights every six weeks or so through the winter. This flight was the Skytraders A319 Airbus (left, photo from Antarctica New Zealand). There will be a total of five flights, two more using the Airbus and two using a C-17.

igloo in front of the stationConstruction update...the winterovers began construction of the new berthing structure the last week in July...uh, yeah, it was an igloo. It was completed on 7 August, and occupied overnight by FIVE intrepid winterovers. At right, a photo of it showing it glowing from the intense interior illumination. More information about its construction, occupation, and rapid demise--with more photos/credits--here thanks in large part to one of its architects Darby Butts.

On 29 June, the GOES-3 satellite, which had been used by USAP for 21 out of its 38-year life, was decommissioned...only to be officially replaced by that much-faster DSCS-3 bird (more details).

medevac aircraft at Pole

Yes, there was a medevac. NSF made the public announcement on 15 June SP time, after the two Twin Otters from Kenn Borek Air headed south from Calgary. A week later, one of the aircraft arrived at excellent weather, clear, calm, the Moon was up, and the temperature was -75.6ºF/-59.8ºC. At left, the aircraft was being unloaded after arrival. The evolution was successful...two Polies needing medical attention were safely brought to hospital in Punta Arenas, Chile. The full story is here.

Another Polie in the news back operator Bruce Tischbein, who has been on the ice since last August, has a feature page on the Zionsville IN Current in Zionsville site. Zionsville is a northwest suburb of Indianapolis.

Lots of satellite news in June! The good news is that the DSCS-3 satellite is now in daily use...although this is presumably still in "testing" mode, as this satellite is not yet listed in the online satellite pass schedules. It is considerably faster--with bandwidth approaching 30 Mbps, significantly better than the 1.5-5 Mbps typically available previously. And its visibility fills in part of the gap between the other satellites, thus extending the daily satellite window from 10-11 hours/day to 14-15. On the flip side (perhaps) of the coin, it was just announced that the GOES-3 satellite is being decommissioned, beginning on 8 June per this blog post from the University of Wisconsin-Madison. The loss of GOES may not be such a big deal, as it has been the slowest of the satellites currently in use...and its visibility window mostly coincides with that of the various faster TDRSS/SPTR satellites. On 15 June it was being moved to a "trash orbit."

Some older items of interest (other old news is in the archive):

WIRED magazine has a feature article on Jerry Marty, Carlton Walker, and the station construction in the July 2002 issue. Read about the settlement problems...why the place wasn't considered fit for occupancy for the 2002 winter.

no way southPole land cargo traverses in the October 2002 NSF flew a specially equipped D8 from Christchurch to McMurdo aboard a C17...this equipment was be used to prepare a road south towards the Leverett Glacier, eventually hopefully to Pole. This is to augment the LC-130 flights for station construction cargo as well as for ICE CUBE and forthcoming science projects. More information...

Another new science 2002 a 10-meter submillimeter telescope (up from 8 meters!) that will search for new galaxy clusters and study dark energy. Plans were to attach it to the DSL (dark sector lab) University of Chicago press release. It was originally scheduled to have a ground shield that is larger than the Dome (built by Temcor, the same company that built the dome...). The telescope was completed in 2006-07, and the huge ground shield was eventually cancelled.

On 8/13/02 NSF had a meeting with potential contractors and suppliers for a possible fiber optic cable to Dome C. Yes, you read that right (news article). Since Pole is way below the horizon for the commercial geosynchronous satellites, one option is to run a cable about 1050 miles to the newly constructed French/Italian Concordia Station at Dome C. (This station is scheduled for full-time occupancy next winter.) The project calls for several years of studies and trials, with the actual stuff involving traverses to get the cable to Pole and Dome C as well as along the route.

Back in mid March 2002 two other iceberg events happened. First, there was another piece of the Thwaites Ice Tongue (75°S-108°W) about 2100 square miles (NOAA press release) which got designated B22. And then there was the collapse of another hunk of the Larsen ice shelf east of the Antarctic Peninsula. The Larsen Ice Shelf B disintegrated within the past couple of months, as evidenced by photos and animations from the NSIDC in Boulder, which also has links to other coverage. The BBC has an excellent article about both events.

The venerable New South Polar Times mailing list moved to a home on Yahoo, thanks to 2001 w/o science tech Andrea Grant. There have been no posts in the past few years, but the archived posts are here.

The American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE) had a major feature on the Pole construction in their December 2000 magazine, including articles by Frank Brier and Jerry Marty. That section is no longer online, although I did archive the original article by Dennis Berry and Forrest Braun (BBFM Engineers, Anchorage) which features the details of foundation design and the jacking systems.

Here is the link to my 1999 Doc Jerri medevac coverage. The spectacular April 2001 medevac flight to Pole is covered here. And my archive of other news, links to press releases, and older media coverage is here.

Other Antarctic news sites... has pretty much supplanted the Explorers Web site. Both continue to be operated by Thomas and Tina Sjogren, the "Wearable" expedition folks that trekked to Pole in 2001-02, as well as Correne Coetzer, who also made a ski trip to Pole in 2006-07. They are up to date on all the Pole NGA ventures as well as Vinson, Everest, the North Pole, and other similar attractions, and they have an excellent guide for planning your own stroll to Pole.

Brendon Grunewald's old 70 South news site has evolved into the Polar Conservation Organisation, but it still features some Antarctic and related news from everywhere, although the site is hard to navigate.

The Antarctic Sun is extremely prolific of late. The editor through July 2015 was friend Peter Rejcek, a 2004 Polie winterover.. He's currently a traveling freelancer; some of his work can be found on singularityhub. The current editor, also a friend, is Michael Lucibella. Sun archives run back to 1996-97, the final year when the McMurdo newspaper was a Navy publication, the Antarctic Sun Times. Before then in the old days it went by other is that story.

 NZ Antarctic Philately pages by Steven McLachlan . The news page features many current events through 2006, including many pictures from the various private expeditions at Pole. He also has information on the 99-00 cruises of the Polar Duke south of NZ in support of German and Italian science projects, 98-99 construction of the new base at Dome C...

The Australian Antarctic Division (AAD) published biweekly newsletters on NGA (private) expeditions, cruises and tourist events. Unfortunately this was discontinued in May 2003, and the archives are no longer available. But they do feature a separate news page for the official Australian program.

The NSF Polar Programs (PLR) page contains links and a search engine. Most recent press releases are also here, scroll to the bottom.

The rest of the story... can now be read online or offline in the newsletter of the Antarctican Society. Highly recommended. Here is the latest contact info as well as the historical background about the group.

[top] | [home]

Weather information...  has been moved to a separate page.

About the satellites:

dishing it up For most of the last decade until October 2008, things were simple. Pole used the MARISAT/GOES terminal, originally constructed in 2000-01 (left) to communicate with 3 satellites that used to be's a May 2000 Christian Science Monitor article about one of them--MARISAT. The RF building and MARISAT/GOES terminal 1 mile south of the station were first turned on in 2001, but they suffered through cold weather mechanical and electronics problems off and on ever since. A radome was added in 2004-05 (photos), but that didn't cure everything...during the 2008 winter the gear drive system failed again...but this time a MacGyver effort by the satcom tech and station mechanics got things rebuilt and running (Antarctic Sun article).

As for the satellites themselves, since they were old the orbits wobbled so the station could see them a few hours a day. MARISAT-F2 (Maritime Communications Satellite), GOES-3 (Geostationary Operational Environmental Satellite, as it was a NOAA weather satellite), and TDRS-1 combined [the links for individual satellites here are to Wikipedia articles] gave a window of almost 12 contiguous hours per day with an original theoretical 5 MBPS transfer speed, which has been upgrades several times over the years to more than 60 MBPS. Most of the increased bandwidth goes to data transfer. The oldest of these three, MARISAT-F2 was decommissioned in October 2008 after deterioration in its telecommand link (Antarctic Sun article). This cut the total window by two hours and the bandwidth by a bigger percentage. A year later in October 2009, the TDRS-1 satellite (or TDRSS-1, depending on the NASA contractor and acronym you ball doneprefer--TDRS is Tracking and Data Relay Satellite and TDRSS is Tracking and Data Relay Satellite System) also disappeared from service. The last TWTA (traveling wave tube amplifier) failed, and NASA moved it to another temporary orbit for decommissioning. The last day of service was 21 October 2009 (NSF announcement and Spaceflight Now news article).

During the 2009-10 summer some field tests were conducted using the Intelsat/Paradigm/Astrium-operated Skynet-4C British military satellite, which was slowly increasing in visibility at Pole. Here is the October 2009 contract award announcement, a 2010 announcement from Intelsat, and a more detailed 2010 Intelsat report on the initial testing (interestingly, these satellites use the Oakhanger ground station southeast of London in the UK--while working for Ford Aerospace I visited that station in 1980 as part of a US Air Force satellite contract I was then involved with...and Philco-Ford, NATO-IVB antenna inside the GOES radomea predecessor to Ford Aerospace, actually manufactured the first Skynet satellites in the 1960s). The Pole equipment was designed, some equipment was bought (January 2011 SPAWAR request for information), a dish and receiving system was installed in the large radome with the GOES dish during the 2011-12 austral summer (Skynet and GOES are in opposite directions), and USAP bought time on the satellite. But when the installation was completed, the satellite could not be located. Turns out that the Skynet orbit had been adjusted so that it was behind MAPO, so the earth station would need to be relocated. Instead, arrangements were used to use a different satellite from the same family, NATO-IVB, and tests were conducted successfully during the 2012 winter. It is currently accessed using the antenna in the GOES radome (left, photo from Bartley Davis). This satellite is currently providing a T1 (1.5 Mbps link) for at least 4 hours a day...and it now appears on the various satellite uptime schedules and scrolls (such as this one). NATO-IVB was launched from Cape Canaveral in 1993. The SKYNET-4C is still available for use as well, but this would require a new antenna installation at Pole.

Until midwinter 2016, in addition to NATO-IVB and various TDRSS satellites, Pole was using GOES-3, which provided a 1.5 Mbps inbound and 1024 Kbps outbound data rate for about 6 hours a day. But during 2015 tests were conducted on the DSCS-III-B7 satellite which was slowly drifting into view. Then, on 29 June 2016 NSF announced that the GOES-3 satellite was being decommissioned...and being replaced by the much-better-bandwidth DSCS-3 satellite. More information on the demise of GOES is here...and here is an October 2016 Lockheed-Martin press release describing implementation of the DSCS satellite. As for the shrinking constellation of NASA TDRSS satellites--they have been TDRS F3, TDRS F4 (until it was retired in 2011), TDRS F5 (scheduled for retirement in November 2014--August 2014 USAP service announcement), and TDRS F6 via a second antenna terminal, the SPTR-2 (South Pole TDRS Relay) link completed during the 2008-09 summer (right, a construction photo from Dave Smith; here are more), and here is an April 2009 USAP page with a link to an Antarctic Sun article--lots more info. These satellites often are available for much shorter periods on an ever-changing schedule, and at a greater expense to NSF. They provide a 5 Mbps IP data link, and a separate 150 Mbps one-way (northbound) link for bulk science data. Not all of the "above-the-horizon" time (what typically appeared on the old scroll satellite availability page) is actually available to USAP--the program aims for about 4 hours per day, and at the time this created a complex daily scheduling job for a friend in Denver.

A significant upgrade to what we once knew as the MARISAT-GOES terminal was begun in 2016-17 to improve its capability to handle DSCS-3 traffic--presumably that project will be completed in 2017-18. And currently in June of 2017, the DSCS satellite has been unavailable due to some major issues with the terminal in Christchurch...apparently major enough to require special NSF funding (approved) and ITAR approval (pending). AARGH!

In addition to the larger geosynchronous satellites there is, of course, Iridium, which is always available for official/emergency phone calls. Additionally there is a data link consisting of 12 Iridium phones, each capable of a 2400 bps data link, which are multiplexed to produce a 28 kbps data link. For a time USAP used this for 24/7 email (for small emails <50k or so), but that has been discontinued. More recently, the IceCube project has implemented other mail/text systems using Iridium. Other resources linked here:

-the recently upgraded and enhanced USAP satellite information pages with links to the weekly satellite schedule PDF files.

-a brief NSF 2006 Powerpoint presentation by Erick Chiang and Pat Smith, titled "Data Communications Supporting Astronomy/Astrophysics at South Pole Station" which addresses the conditions and future plans at that point in time.

-a May 1995 report by Bob Loewenstein, Bill Smythe, and Brent Jones, Science Requirements for South Pole Station Computing and Communications. Some interesting facts, figures, and historical background. 1 GB/day of data transmission--hmmm, where would that leave IceCube?

[top] | [home]  


The 2016 Antarctic Treaty consultative meeting (ATCM XXXIX) was held in Santiago, Chile between 23 May and 1 June. Interestingly (or not) I saw absolutely NO media coverage...and a review of the papers presented confirmed the reason for the lack of media interest. Something I always look for are the Russian reports on the Lake Vostok drilling, but due to budget cuts, there wasn't any field activity, and their only report was this technical paper about drilling fluids. The 2017 meeting will be 22 May-1 June in Beijing, China. Here is the official Treaty home page. From there you can navigate to the final reports, or you can search the various meeting papers by selecting the "Meeting From/To" and/or the submitters.

Nowadays there are a number of commercial marathon/ultramarathon ventures in the Antarctic...most commonly sought out by people who want to complete a marathon on all seven continents:

  • The oldest such event--the Antarctica Marathon--is actually held on King George Island, just off the Antarctic Peninsula. The first such event was on 28 January 1995; the 2017 event happened on 10 and 11 March. In 2018 it is scheduled for 16 and 17 March...there are actually two separate vessels bringing contestants from Ushuaia to KGI for two separate races on those dates--there is a limitation of 100 runners for each race. Each trip includes 3 days in Buenos Aires before the race as well other exploration of the eastern Antarctic Peninsula after the race. The course starts and ends at Bellingshausen Station (the Russian base) and passes several other bases. It is organized by Marathon Tours & Travel in Boston; event registration includes a cruise ship voyage from Ushuaia--the event is sold out for 2018 and 2019, although they are accepting waiting list entries for 2019. The entry fee is only $250, but the total registration cost another $6,990 or more (ex Buenos Aires) for the vessel accommodations and other insurance, tax and visa fees. In 2017 there were 114 marathon finishers. The male winner was Luan Huynh from Aalborg, Denmark, with a time of 3:24:22, and the female winner was Lesley Mettler Auld from Seattle, in 4:06:14. There were also 21 half marathon finishers. Eight finishers of the races were from the Chilean and Chinese bases on KGI.

  • At Union Glacier (UG), the thirteenth Antarctic Ice Marathon was held on 24 November (UG time/UTC-3) 2017. This is currently the only "Antarctic marathon" actually held south of the Antarctic Circle and on the continent. There were a total of 59 competitors in the various events, including 38 men and 15 women who completed the marathon distance of 26.2 miles, and 4 men and 2 women who opted for the half marathon. The men's winner was Frank Johansen of Denmark with a time of 3:37:46. The woman winner, Kelly McClay from Beverly, MA, finished in 4:56:37. Twelve of the runners were raising money for the Navy Seal Foundation in honor of Brian Hoke, who was killed in Afghanistan in 2016. There was also a new event, the Antarctic Mile, run by Irishman Paul Robinson (who was not otherwise a competitor) in a time of 4:17.9. Impressive! For 2017 the 100k was held separately in mid January. There were 10 total competitors including Richard Donovan (yes, THAT Richard Donovan, winner of the first such event, the only NGO marathon held at Pole, in January 2002). The male 100k winner was Belgian Kurt Alderweireldt with a time of 11:13:53; the only woman participant was Jennifer Cheung from Hong Kong, she finished in 18:34:54. The 2018 marathon event is scheduled for 13 December; no future 100k events are scheduled at this time. The 2018 marathon or half can be booked for a mere €15,000 ex PA; here's the site with more information as well as the race results. This event has been held annually at PH/UG annually beginning in January 2006...but there actually have been fourteen such events staged by ANI/ALE--the first one was staged to finish at Pole on 21 January 2002...there were five finishers in that event, and no small amount of controversy (my coverage). The controversy resulted in a hiatus in what had been planned to be an annual event. In 2011, organizer Richard Donovan participated, with a 100 mile run in 24:35:02, and he completed the 100k in 2017 with a time of 21:05:34.

  • A newer event, also on King George Island, is the White Continent Marathon (with a half-marathon and 50k). Sponsored by Minneapolis-based Marathon Adventures, it includes a from PA to KGI with a day of camping there either before or after the race, which for 2018 is scheduled for 25 January (organizers skipped the 2016-17 season). The event also includes participation in a Punta Arenas marathon. The 2016 event happened on 26 January--the marathon winners were Erik Zeitlow (M), age 48, from Arvada, CO, with a time of 4:16:03; and Natalia Constantinescu (F) from Toronto, ONT, with a time of 5:02:19. There were 30 marathon participants as well as 20 other participants in the 50k, half marathon, and 10k. For the inaugural of this event in 2013, the PA marathon turned out to be the day before the flight to KGI and the race there. Things got interesting on the ice--the race was on 27 February, or at least most of it. Because of deteriorating weather on KGI, the marathon was cut short after only 17 runners had finished because "the pilot wanted to leave" (blog post by participant and SERIOUS runner Joseph Coureur). After runners were given an opportunity to complete their remaining distance immediately after arriving back in PA, there were a total of 44 marathon finishers, including 9-year-old Nikolas Toocheck of Pennsylvania Runners World coverage). The winner was 31-year-old Steve Schaefer of Philadelphia (there were also 21 half-marathon finishers).

  • Another one out there is the Last Desert 250 km experience. It originated in 2006 when 15 runners completed the first ever 100-mile (160 km) race on Esperanza; since then the event involves a total of 250 km. happened on Deception and KGI. Since then it happened in 2007 and 2008, and has been scheduled every other year since then. In November 2016 the event had 61 participants. There are six planned stages in different locations--each is a loop of varying length that runners had to complete as many times as they could under the time limit (or until the stage was ended due to weather). Oh, all competitors have to carry all of their food, camping gear, etc. (except water) for the entire race. In past races, the winning rank was determined on how early one completes 250 km on the various stages. The locations are dependent on ice conditions. in 2016 The first stage was a 14 km loop on 21 November on King George Island; stage 2 the next day was a 3 km circuit at Telefon Bay on Deception Island; Stage 3 the following day was at Paradise Bay on the continent; stage 4 on the 24th was a 4 km course at Dorian Bay on Wiencke Island in deep snow; it was cut short after 3 hours due to high winds. The 5th stage was a 3.1 km loop on Danko Island on 25 November--on this day the first four competitors reached the winning 250 km total. The sixth and final stage was on the 26th--a 2.4 km loop on Half Moon Island. All 61 competitors completed the entire course, and eight of them reached the 250 km goal. More links--the official news from each stage, and the blogs of some of the participants. Oh, one other thing...potential participants must have first completed two other of the 4 Deserts events (Atacama and the Gobi and Sahara deserts) before being permitted to do this one. The next one of these is scheduled for November 2018, it is ship-based. Ex Ushuaia cost is $12,900; it is by invitation only for finishers of at least two other of the 4 Desert races.

  • A new promotion in 2015 was the Antarctic portion of the Triple 7 Quest--which actually promised seven marathons on seven continents in seven days (!). Needless to say, Mother Antarctica intervened...their flight to the KGI marathon site on 14 February boomeranged 20 minutes before landing, and the participants didn't make it there until the 16th...the race was the next day. I haven't seen any results, but one of the participants, Kim Pursley of northern Maryland, was featured in this Baltimore Sun article. In 2017 the package was a trip to seven marathons on seven continents in January and February, and the Antarctic portion of the race was actually the White Continent Marathon mentioned above. For 2018 they've expanded it to "8 marathons/8 continents/8 days" by adding Zealandia (aka New Zealand) to the mix. The 2018 series starts in Auckland on 23 January and ends up on KGI...that race is actually the White Continent Marathon (and half marathon) on 30 January mentioned above.

  • After seeing this 19 January 2017 Washington Post article, I've learned that there's yet another "7 marathons in 7 days" package venture out there--the World Marathon Challenge. The 2017 event starts with a marathon at Union Glacier on 23 January...with races in PA, Miami, Madrid, Marrakech, Dubai, and Sydney on the next six days (list of races with info). This is the third year for this event--the first of which happened in January 2015, with 9 male and one female finishers. Price for this year's challenge was €36,000 which included all flights except getting to PA and home from Sydney.

  • The apparently defunct Maraton Antartica, organized by a Chilean company, was to be its second year in 2014. That event was to have been on 28 February, but apparently it didn't happen, nor, apparently, did the one scheduled for 1 March 2015, which still appears on the website. It was also to be on KGI, including full and half marathons and a 10k--the next one is on 1 March 2015. The announced price was US$3,400 ex PA, including the flight to KGI, the same-day race, and a same-day return to PA. They were planning on a maximum of 60 registrants; as of late November there were only 5. In 2013 there were about 20 participants in the 3 events, most of whom were from Chile (there were 2 Australians, no North Americans). That race was on 28 February, the day after the aborted White Continent Marathon...and it was also cut short by weather, with no marathon finisher.

As for nongovernmental visitors to Pole, the 2011-12 season was the biggest ever for Pole, as it had been the centennial year of Amundsen's and Scott's arrival at what has been called an "awful place." But folks continue to show up. There are two principal tourist operators--flights from Punta Arenas to Patriot Hills (nowadays Union Glacier instead) and beyond are operated by Antarctic Network International (ANI)/Antarctic Logistics and Exploration (ALE). ANI continues to be actively booking tourists. The other operation is based out of the airstrip at Novo (Novolazarevskaya), a Russian base which is served by flights from Cape Town. It is operated by Antarctic Logistics Centre International (ALCI) and The Antarctic Company (TAC). These organizations do not appear to be seriously booking private tourist flights at present, but another British based company White Desert, has established a tourist destination "Whichaway Camp" near Novo (no, nowhere near the Whichaway Nunataks) with penguin colonies and mountains nearby. TAC also operates its "Oasis" guesthouse about 10 miles from Novo at Schirmacher Oasis. Novo is a 3000m blue ice runway originally built by ANI near the Russian Novolazarevskaya base, in the past it was known as Blue One, and on some maps you may see it designated as "White Desert." Perhaps the most serious travel agent booking Pole trips is the Chicago-based company Polar Explorers...they are booking trips to Pole via PA/Union Glacier for US$45,000 ex PA.

Here's the current listing of NGO treks/ventures planned for 2017 or later years...(expedition links from previous seasons are on the news archive page; see these links).

Planned 2017-18 expeditions:
Cut short! Ben Saunders
no stranger to Antarctica, was departing the UK on about 27 October to set off on what he calls the first solo and unsupported crossing...something originally planned by Ben's friend Henry Worsley, who almost finished before falling ill and passing away in a Chile hospital in January 2016. Ben is dedicating his trek in memory of Henry Worsley and using a similar route. Ben's plans are to traverse from Berkner Island to the Ross Ice Shelf via Pole and the Shackleton Glacier. Here is a 20 October Outside Online interview with Ben about the venture...and an 8 November Daily Mail article, which includes a photo of his fiancée Pip Harrison (they became engaged in July) as well as the info that one of his major sponsors is Canada Goose...seller of Big Reds with their knockoff of the USAP logo. Ben arrived UG on the first IL-76 flight on 4 November, and was dropped off at his starting point on the 9th thanks to good weather. After 10 days he was at 82ºS; on 11 December he was about 250 miles from Pole. He reached Pole on 29 December but opted to discontinue the rest of his planned trip to the Ross Ice Shelf as he'd run short of food due to delays (Telegraph article).
Yasunaga Ogita
a 40 year old Japanese adventurer from Takasu, Hokkaido, is attempting a solo unassisted trip from Hercules Inlet beginning in mid-November. In the past few years he made two unsuccessful attempts to reach the North Pole. His venture was publicized in this 22 September 2017 Japan Times article. He headed south from Japan to Punta Arenas on 10 November and was dropped off at his starting point on the 17th. His blog (in Japanese) with photos is here., and his position map is here. As of 7 December he was about 1/3 of the way on the 700 mile/1130km distance. And as of 5 January he was close...expecting to arrive at Pole on the 6th...which he did, accounted in this Japan Times article.
Davor Rostuhar (Diary index) (Croatian language site)
is a 35-year-old Croatian writer and photographer who has traveled extensively worldwide and written six books, including one for National Geographic. He is currently attempting to be the first Croatian to reach the South Pole...on a solo unsupported trek from Hercules Inlet. After an initial visit to ALE in Punta Arenas, he opted to travel from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia and travel by cruise ship to the Peninsula. As of late November he was still on a cruise ship...when that returned north he returned to PA and was flown to Union Glacier on 27 November. He was flown to Hercules Inlet on 1 December. By the 12th he was at 81º15'S and had traveled 180km. And by 8 January he'd reached 88º the 12th he was at 88º-40'S. He reached Pole on the 18th South Pole his claim in this Total Croatia News article, he's the 20th person to complete the Pole journey solo and unsupported. His was the next-to-last NGO venture to reach Pole this season; the Norwegians Astrid and Sivert arrived a few hours later. Davor's main website (in English and Croatian) with more information about him and his previous projects, is here.
Scott Sears aka the Antarctic Gurkha
an Englishman who became a British Army officer after failed attempts to become a tennis pro and a country music singer in Boise (and then got a law degree), is now underway on a solo ski trip from Hercules Inlet to Pole. He reached UG on 15 November and was flown to Hercules Inlet on the 17th. As of 11 December he was doing 85.4ºS with about 320 miles left to Pole. He successfully reached Pole on 27 December.
Leo Houlding/Spectre Expedition...
Leo is a 37-year-old rock climber from the Lake District of northern England, is leading a unique "off-road" Antarctic crossing/climbing expedition, accompanied by Frenchman Jean Burgun and Marc Sedon of Christchurch. Unique in part because their plans do NOT include a visit to Pole unless time permits. Their plans are to be flown from Union Glacier to 88ºS-110ºW (the practical limit of ALE's Twin Otter...from there they'll kite-ski north to the Organ Pipe Peaks in the Gothic Mountains (86ºS-150ºW) where they'll spend 20 days climbing, presumably including the technical south face buttress (2500' climb/6600' above sea level) of the expedition namesake Spectre. After that, they'll continue north down the Scott Glacier to the Ross Ice Shelf, manhaul back to the depot at their dropoff point, and kite-ski/manhaul back to Union Glacier. Other info...this 27 October Financial Times article and this 31 October Cumbria Crack article. Also of note...this blog post by geologist Ed Stump describing his first and only other ascent of the Spectre with his brother Mugs in 1980-81...using the much less technical north side. As for the Spectre team, they arrived at UG on 15 November on the second IL-76 flight. They were dropped off at their starting point on 21 November. By 8 December they had reached the Gothic Mountains and summited their goal, the Spectre, using much of the route followed by Mugs and Ed Stump years earlier. After some more serious climbing, they opted to not head north 60 miles to the Ross Ice Shelf, but instead head south. And they later opted not to visit 90º if 3 January they were awaiting favorable winds to kite them toward Union Glacier...which they got. By 5 January they were making great kiting speed on the established route from Pole to Union Glacier, with 280 miles left to travel. They arrived in spectacular fashion at Union Glacier on 11 January. Here's a 2 February article about Mark Sedon, the Kiwi member of the team.
Jade Hameister with guide Eric Philips
Jade is is a 16-year-old girl from Melbourne, on a 2017-18 ski trip to Pole) using a new 375-mile route from the southeast corner of the Ross Ice Shelf up the Reedy and Kansas Glaciers (the Kansas Glacier is a tributary to the Reedy). She's accompanied by her father Paul Hameister, who also happens to be the 12th Australian to climb the Seven Summits, guide Eric Philips, assistant Heath Jamieson, and National Geographic photographer Ming D'Arcy who will capture stuff for a future documentary. Oh, by the way, Jade, Paul, and Eric were in the midst of a Greenland ski crossing east from Kangerlussuaq in May 2017. Not a lot of recent details on Jade's website, but Eric is posting frequent blog updates on his site as well as daily email updates. Also, here's a 19 November Australian news article from The Age. As of 5 December they were at Union Glacier, and on the 6th they were flown to their starting point at 85º14'S-139º38'W. Since then they've made slow and steady progress; by 5 January they were at 89º10'S. They reached Pole on the 11th. Here's a article!
Robert Swan's South Pole Energy Challenge (SPEC)
is underway on this, his latest South Pole adventure--note that this Royal Dutch Shell website includes an interactive map with videos from the team. Robert started the trip with 3 others including his son Barney, filmmaker Kyle O'Donoghue, and guide/leader Martin Barnett on a man-hauling trip to Pole...relying solely on renewable energy. The renewable energy is coming from new technology solar well as backup liquid fuels made from coffee beans, food waste etc., and solar powered snow melters that operate as they travel, speeding up their dinner preparation as they only have to heat the water, not melt the snow first. The team is being resupplied from caches. In December 2016 Robert was spending a week at the Union Glacier camp with an international team, making additional plans for the 2017 a venture he called IAE 80ºS (MediaGreen news article). By 20 November the team had reached Union Glacier, and they were dropped off at their "Messner Start" starting point (82ºS-65ºW on the Ronne Ice Shelf) on 22 November. However, on 18 December (day 27 of the venture) Robert Swan was flown back to Union Glacier after fearing that his travel speed was slowing the others down. As of 6 January, Martin, Kyle, and Barney were at 88º30'S...when they reached 89ºS on 11 January, they were joined by a Last Degree team accompanied by Robert Swan. By midday on the 13th South Pole time they were at 89º39'S.
Astrid Furholt
of Norway, is underway on a 2017-18 ski trip to Pole following Amundsen's original 850-mile route from the Bay of Whales site and up the Axel Heiberg Glacier to the plateau...her intent is to be the first woman to track Roald Amundsen's entire route. She will be accompanied by Jan Sverre Svertsen, and they were being mentored by Børge Ousland and others. Their plans were to recreate Amundsen's route to Pole from the Bay of Whales. They were supported by AL&E out of Union Glacier--so they were flown to the base of the Axel Heiberg Glacier on the Ross Ice Shelf. From there they ski-sailed north toward the Bay of Whales area before turning around and man-hauling their sledges to the Pole. Thus, they would actually travel about 1200 miles. Her older website is here. They were dropped of at their starting point on 13 November. Correction as my Norwegian is only as good as my translator...they did NOT abort their venture, rather, around 28 November they opted not to continue north all the way to the Bay of Whales, rather they turned around and are now heading south. As of 6 December they were at about 84.5ºS. By the 10th they'd left the Ross Ice Shelf and climbed up Mount Betty, a small ridge at 85ºS-163ºW, where they located a cairn and cache left by Roald Amundsen in 1911, as well as a plaque added by Monica Kristensen in 1986-87. As of 3 January they were at 86º40'S. They were traveling slowly then, but have more recently increased their daily mileage. By 13 January they were at 88º-48'S..and they had hopes of reaching Pole by the 17th. They did make it on the 18th South Pole time....the last NGO group to reach that silver ball this summer.
Exercise Ice Maiden
is a British Army team of women who are planning a 1000+ mile walk from the base of the Leverett Glacier to Hercules Inlet via Pole and the SPoT route. This is planned for 2017-18, but they were busy training in 2016. Here is a September 2016 Telegraph article about their plans and preparation. There is nothing more recent than this on their website, but their Facebook page has current info...including mention of their departure for Chile on 25 October. Earlier, there was their June 2017 announcement of the the final team selection: Nics Wetherill, Nat Taylor, Sandy Hennis, Zanna Baker, Jenni Stephenson and Sophie Montagne. Also see this March 2017 Daily Star article about their training. They arrived at the UG camp on the first IL-76 flight on 4 November...and on 20 November they were finally flown to their starting point. They reached Pole early on Sunday 17 December where they rested up and got resupplied for the leg to Hercules Inlet. The first two ALE "last degree" trekker groups also arrived around the same time. And they completed their entire mission, returning to Hercules Inlet at 2300 20 January (BBC News article). The six women are the largest all-female group to complete such a return journey to Pole.
AL&E's Ski South Pole Hercules Inlet team
set off from there on 21 November. This trip included five clients, guided by Carl Alvey and Christian Iversen Styve.
Peng Jing
was reportedly the first Chinese woman to travel the 700-mile distance from Hercules Inlet to Pole. She was not part of the AL&E group...rather she was separately supported. Her team left Hercules Inlet on 16 November and reached Pole on 8 January, per this Xinhua news article.
Didn't happen! Jethro De Decker
a 33-year-old actuary from South Africa currently working in Singapore, has announced plans to do an unsupported, unassisted "fastest known time" trip from the coast to Pole. As of late October, there still is nothing on his blog about his detailed plans...his most recent post discusses his completion of 100 miles (out of a planned 300 miles) of the Yukon Quest ultramarathon in February. This 9 March article in The Actuary has more information. But as of 7 December there was no recent news about his trip. He's still training, but on 6 December he ran the Singapore the Antarctic trip is not on for this season.
Didn't happen! Priya Venkatesh
a management training instructor living in Bangalore, has announced plans to put together an all-Indian team for a South Pole venture in 2017-18. She previously visited the continent in 2011 as part of Robert Swan's 2041 program "Leadership on the Edge." As of 26 October there is nothing out there since several December 2016 news articles such as this one from The Times of India.
Postponed! Sir Chris Hoy
a six-time champion Olympic cyclist, has announced a 423-mile cycling trip to Pole from the Amundsen Coast...and more recently he announced he would be accompanied on his fat bike by fellow Brit Jason Kenny, who also holds 6 cycling gold medals (Mamil Sports announcement). Of course, the Amundsen Coast is also the location of the base of the Leverett Glacier, which means that he will be traveling the South Pole Traverse did Maria Leijerstam in December 2013 (Maria's blog). James is hoping to beat Maria's record time of 10 days 14 hours 56 minutes. Earlier this year Chris was still looking for a sponsor, he has no website that I could find, and his Facebook page does not mention the Pole venture. Still, he mentioned the trip in a late September interview, and he's been ruing the fact that he'll miss the first weeks of his second child's life while on the ice. Here's a June 2017 article about his plans. This 15 November Daily Mail article indicates he's postponed the Pole venture until 2018-19.
Cancelled! James Redden
from Buckinghamshire in southeast England, was planning a solo unsupported full trip from Hercules Inlet to Pole in 2017-18, a venture he titled "North by South 2017," but in mid-October he announced its cancellation due to lack of funds. In In April of 2016, he completed a "last 2 degree" trip to the North Pole. In March 2017 he completed a 2-week solo ski training trip in Norway...although weather and baggage issues meant he only covered half the planned distance. Here's a 28 February 2017 article about his plans from The Bucks Herald. He's been recently discussing his plans and training program on his blog. Also here is his page seeking donations.

Announced for future seasons:
Kate Leeming
an experienced long-distance Australian cyclist and tennis pro) has proposed her South Pole bicycle trip for several years now. Earlier this year she said she was shooting for 2017-18, but her rather confusing recent blog posts would seem to indicate she's now thinking about 2018-19. Her most recent training for this was a long cycling venture in northwestern Canada in early 2017. She is to be supported (presumably still on snowmobiles) by expedition leader Eric Philips and filmmakers Claudio Von Planta and Phil Coates...although Eric Philips is also listed as a guide for Jade Hameister's trip described above (?). She'll be riding the first-of-its-kind 2-wheel drive bike, built by Steve Christini in uses a series of gears and shafts to power the front wheel. In 2013 she trained with it in Svalbard. At present it appears that her route will start at the base of the Leverett Glacier, following the South Pole Traverse route to Pole, and then continuing to Hercules Inlet. Her trip will support AIDS treatment programs and education. This photo from her web site shows her bicycle; the silver tube visible on the right side of the front fork contains one of the drive shafts which transfers power to the front wheel.
Baz (Barry John) Gray
is a 26-year veteran of the Royal Marines Commando currently living in southwest Devon, England. His 2018-19 plan is an 1800-mile solo ski crossing of Antarctica from McMurdo Sound to Berkner Island, via the Shackleton Glacier and Pole (note...Shackleton's 1907-09 expedition used the Beardmore Glacier to get to the plateau). He'll be supported by AL&E out of Union of course they'll need to fly him to his starting point on Ross Island. As of July 2017 he was already training, planning, and fundraising, and his new website went live.
The Hampshire (England) Scouts
are a serious troop of expeditioners...they've done many serious treks over the years, and as of October 2016 they'd already spent several months training for a South Pole venture, which is currently scheduled for 2018-19 as a 6-person unsupported return trip from Hercules Inlet. In 2017-18 they are planning a 6-week trip to Chilean Patagonia where they'll explore as well as take part in a community project. They're getting nutritional advice from scientists at Southampton Solent University, per this 24 April 2014 Daily Echo article.
Jan Meek
from the UK, announced in January that she's planning to lead a 5-woman team, dubbed the "Polar Maidens," to the South Pole in 2018-19. Not much information out there about her detailed plans, other than she plans to take "the 200-mile trek that Robert Scott didn't survive in 1912" in this 2 January Richmond & Twickenham Times article. She may be describing the final 125 miles back to Ross Island that Scott didn't complete that year...the 224-mile return distance to Pole from where Shackleton turned around in January 1909, or the 530 miles short of Pole where Scott and Shackleton turned around in December 1903. Jan, who completed a trek to the North Pole in 2008, will be 73 years old when this happens. Stay tuned...
Eirliani Abdul Rahman
from Singapore, still hopes to be the first woman from that nation to visit Pole--her plans now are to do it in 2018-19. She'd originally proposed this for 2016-17, to be guided by Sarah McNair-Landry, but that didn't happen. And there's not much more about her plans other than media such as this 9 August Straits Times article. In March and April 2017 she was training in Canada, and more recently she's been dragging truck tires around. She now works for the Kailash Satyarthi Children's Foundation, and she plans to move to the US to work in their Washington, DC office.
Zero South
is an outfit I'm not yet giving up on. Their delayed plans involve a 1200-mile Pole trip starting from Union Glacier (to ??) using two massively converted Hummer H1 vehicles...the conversion included not only the installation of Mattrack-like tracks, but also a hybrid power plant where the biofuel-burning engines power generators with batteries, and the drive wheels are powered by electric motors. During January-February 2016 they set out on a planned trip from Anchorage to Prudhoe Bay using rubber tires. They then switched to tracks at nearby Oliktok Point for a planned round trip to Barrow. From there they continued west on the sea about 50 miles west of Oliktok point, where track issues caused them to turn around. Their final report on this trip is here...and more recently this K&N Filters page details the modifications made to the H1's for the polar trips. The vehicles were presented in Los Angeles during the April 2017 March for Science, one of several items presented on their Facebook page. They plan another test excursion in November 2017, which means that the earliest that the Antarctic trip would happen is 2018-19. And for housing they will be towing a heavily modified 23-foot 1962 Airstream trailer they're calling the Snowstream. And I must mention that Oliktok Point, perhaps 50 miles northwest of Deadhorse, is still the site of a radar station, originally a DEW Line site where a guy named Art Brown worked in 1961.
Ryan Newburn
an 26-year-old adventurer from Papillon, MO (a St. Louis suburb) has announced plans for a 600-mile trek from Union Glacier to Pole in 2018-19. He's been quite active in the past, having completed the 1900-mile Te Araroa trail across New Zealand in February 2016. There's actually nothing yet on his website about the planned trip, but he had been discussing it in 2016 on his public Facebook page, and more details are in this 27 June Papillon Times article. I'd say this is doubtful unless he posts more info soon.

Here are my records of the nongovernmental expeditions (skiers/hikers/kiters/drivers/sledders etc...) for: 2016-17, 2015-16, 2014-15, 2013-14, 2012-13, 2011-12, 2010-11, 2009-10, 2008-09, 2007-08, 2006-07, 2005-06, 2004-05, 2003-04, 2002-03, 2001-02, 2000-01 and 1999-2000. Keep in mind that the older expedition web sites tend to disappear, although I keep many of the links around for historical interest. And until I adjust things, the archive page may open a bit slowly. Note that the 2000-01 Russian "Millennium Expedition" (skydiving/ballooning) is covered on a separate page.